2005 1300 C won't run - VTXOA
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs down 2005 1300 C won't run

Hey Hans & Feet ... have been enjoying and benefitting from your posts since joining ... I have the same bike you have (even same color) and I have a real problem that has gotten worse. Purchased the bike in late spring ... would only run with "choke" out a little ... took the fuel bowl off and cleaned the jets (stock 55 & 195) and everything else I could reach and installed Glen's A/F mixer (no old parts left in) ... bike ran good for about 75 miles then started bucking like crazy unless I really gave it throttle ... took the carb off this time and cleaned thoroughly ... inspected the rubber diaphragms and everything looked good (no holes or tears I could see) ... ran strong for about miles ... took it on an expressway and when the speedometer hit about 70 the bike quit ... pulled over ... started right up ... ran strong until I hit about 70 again and quit ... did this about 4 times before I gave up ... rode about another 60 miles at speeds up or less than 55 and bike ran strong the whole time ... when to ride it next day and keep stalling out when applied throttle while warming up until all of a sudden it didn't and throttle well but was late and didn't want to chance a ride ... started it again yesterday and did the same thing and took longer to function properly ... went for a ride and got about a mile from home and bike bucked several times and quit ... would start up again but as soon as I applied or even touched the throttle it quit ... wouldn't run at all ... Can't figure it out but am thinking to take the carb off again and replace all the rubber diaphragms and plastic parts even though they all seem to be ok ... also after the 1st carb take down I replaced all the vacuum hoses and the gas line and nothing appears kinked ... also tested the vacuum at the petcock and it holds a stready 20 ... when I took the tank off today I ran the gas straight from a gas can into the fuel like after plugging the vacuum line and made no difference in performance so I am thinking it is not a problem at the petcock but planning on replacing that diaphragm also ... also just happened to notice that the vent line from the tank has a "T" in it but no hose connected to it ... Chilton's does show any connection at that "T" but when I look at a diagram of the california model I think there is a vent hose coming off the charcoal canister ... is there supposed to be a vent hose off that "T" and if so where does it go? Was also wondering if I could have a problem with the throttle sensor electrical connector ... what do you think?
Please anyone and everyone ... I need HALLLLLLLP!! Getting down right frustrated ... have really been able to ride all summer ... not a mechanic and takes me longer to do things and look thing up ... this forum is OUTSTANDING !!
Thanks
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 09:21 AM
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Your post fell off the "Active threads" rapidly.

It is fuel or ignition.

Take a good look at the ICM.
Two most forward wires have a high rate
of breaking. Green wire and a Black wire.
It typically breaks right at the connector where the wire goes into a oring.

Loose battery connections cause problems.

You cannot just put a hose in a can and expect it to work.. A hose has to be filled to siphon fuel from a container.

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,118 VTX miles
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Hans & Feet ... I will check those today ... seems strange that the bike idles but dies as soon as the throttle is touched ... does the throttle position sensor ever go bad on these bikes? I don't understand your comment about the hose in the can ... I had gas flowing to the carb but same thing happened when I touched the throttle
Thanks again ... Bill

love this forum!!


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 10:08 AM
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Explain this>> I ran the gas straight from a gas can into the fuel like after plugging the vacuum line and made no difference in performance so I am thinking it is not a problem at the petcock but planning on replacing that diaphragm also


I thought it meant putting a hose from the carb into a can...

No TPS issues. The ICM wires breaking - too often. When the break separates it dies, could have backfires...

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,118 VTX miles
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks ... probably not a TPS then? Others have said they never heard of a Throttle position sensor going bad ... thanks again


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 10:40 AM
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When at idle, pull on the two wires mentioned (one at a time) and see if engine dies.

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,118 VTX miles
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks ... will do ... don't know why I am off the active threads ... do you know how I get back on it?


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 01:10 PM
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You did not go through the new members board apparently so in limbo I guess.
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It will be ok now..

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,118 VTX miles
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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OK ... will do ... wasn't aware ... by the way put gas to the carb (syphined to the gas line) ... started right up ... let it warm up about 3 min ... gave it throttle and ran strong if I give it a lot of RPMs ... was faultering a little when throttle applied slowly but that seems to have cleared now ... janked on the green/grey and black/grey wires and they are tight ... no breaks ... tightened the battery with a socket and was able to tighten it more than with a screw driver ... could the problem be as simple as a less than tight battery?


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 05:40 PM
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VTX will not run without a battery.
The OEM Rectifier/Regulator aka R/R is a shunting regular.
It crowbars the stator when the charge voltage gets to high.
It is only on for milliseconds normally but a loose connection at the battery terminal would have higher voltage from no battery load and R/R
would shut down charging.

Wire brushing the cable terminal and battery post, applying a thin film of grease.

Often the battery terminals will turn on the post as tightened.
It wants to go back to its natural position, vibration helps it get loose again.
As a preventative I push back on the cable and when tightened it should be in the natural position.

Many mysteries in life!

Enjoy the ride!

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,118 VTX miles
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