Nash.VTX's Relay / Fuse block schematic - VTXOA
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-13-2008, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Nash.VTX's Relay / Fuse block schematic

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2008, 12:33 PM
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Thanks for posting this here!

I'm looking at this fuse block http://www.sjkmarine.com/blu5025.html (you were the one that suggested it actually ) but when they say "negative bus" does that mean that there are multiple screw locations for the negative leads or just one??

Thanks!


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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 12:48 AM
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Question Switch wire

You show 2 blue wires to switch one from relay and one from Tail light wire?

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SRC View Post
You show 2 blue wires to switch one from relay and one from Tail light wire?

Steve
Thats right - one IN from the taillight and the other OUT to the relay. That is what you are switching.




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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 11:33 AM
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switch

what if switch only has 2 poles and not 3.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 11:38 AM
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what if switch only has 2 poles and not 3.

Steve
He is showing a ground wire, maybe that is causing confusion?
You still need to get from the trigger (running light wire) to the relay. He is showing a switch in between because most people want to turn a lightbar on and off.
If you had no switch the running light trigger wire would go straight to the relay.




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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRC View Post
what if switch only has 2 poles and not 3.

Steve
I think what this is showing is a lighted switch -- lights up when it's on, and is unlit when off. If you just use a plain 2 pole switch you can put it in line of the blue wire, to toggle the relay trigger.


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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TennX View Post
Heres what Im getting ready to do, at the moment my running lights are on with my high beam switched on thru a relay triggered by the blue wire in the 3 pin connector, Im installing a on/off switch between the keyed on brown wire in that 3 pin connector and my relay so my lights can be on/off with either hi/low, Im doing this so my running lights arent on with my high beam as it modulates unless I want them on. Im thinking this will work.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding you here.. but.. the end result you're after is having your running lights ON when your low beams are on, and on HI only when you want them to be?

What if you used a 5 terminal relay (with an 87a - HOT when UNtriggered) where your trigger is the high beam?

When on LOW beam the terminal 87a would go to the running lights since you're untriggered, but when you trigger the relay with the highbeam the regular out, Terminal 87, goes hot to the running lights. You'd have your switch on this line from 87 to the running lights.

I only see two (actually 1.5..) potential issues with this:

1) Your power IN has to be on a relay so as to have the lights go out with the headlight when cranking. This would depend on how you wired your aux fuse block I suppose. I don't know if the way the initial picture has it set up will allow that (unless the license plate light goes out when cranking). You'd either have to have a separate relay wired for regular running lights "always on but off when cranking" to put power IN to pin 30/51, or have your fuse block triggered by something keyed-on, but off when cranking.

2) You'd have two "hot inputs" into your running lights (87a and 87). Since this is coming out of the same relay, and can't [read: shouldn't] be hot at the same time this is a moot point. But for safety redundancy to avoid back feeding your + through the other pin on the relay you might be able to rectify this problem through the use diodes to control the flow?


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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TennX View Post
Good point , I will rethink it.
I just didn't follow it the way you were describing it..
For that end result though, to do it with relays you'd need a relay outputting power triggered from a "key-on but off when cranking" source to TWO relays.. 1 triggered by low beam, 1 by hi beam.

The way I described above eliminates 1 of the "beam" relays, and theoretically prevents the risk of backfeeding, as long as everything functions correctly. Let us know what you decide! I've been considering doing this for a while since technically the "always on except when cranking" i have them on now is illegal in NJ... no "fogs" with high beam.

Where were you planning on putting the switch?


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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 03:50 PM
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Nice, I've seen a few of those mounted. They look nice and clean. Easy access too


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