Coolant, Engine Oil&Filters, and Final Drive Oil - VTXOA
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-20-2008, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Coolant, Engine Oil&Filters, and Final Drive Oil

This is a write-up I did on changing the final drive oil on the 1800C but all makes/models are basically the same procedure.
http://www.bareasschoppers.com/driveoil

Last update: 2004-12-18 23:35
Author: Bareass

Draining Final Drive oil notes by BIGLRY

A small note on final drive oil service per service manual. Page 3-18 "Place motorcycle on side stand on a level surface. Remove the oil filler cap and drain bolt, slowly turn the rear wheel and drain the oil" page 3-17 level check "place motorcycle on its side stand on a level surface. Remove the final drive oil filler cap. check that the oil level is to the lower edge of the oil filler hole." I've done mine at 600 miles and saw what I know as normal break in crud. the book says 4.1 oz to fill and on the side stand. That is exactly what mine took. The "level surface" refers to front wheel and rear wheel be on same plane, as not to have more oil in front of case or back of case, to get a true reading. I think if bike is upright that you may over fill, and then you might see some oil coming out the vent on the top of case on a hard run. "Slowly turn the rear wheel" and you will have oil all over your floor unless you have some one to hold catch pan as you walk bike, and it is very awkward to roll bike laid over at side stand angle.LOL I just let mine set on side stand for 1/2hr with drain bolt out before putting back together. one other thing it is a bitch to get oil in as there is a inward facing casing lip and if you try to put in to fast it pours right back out. I used small hose into case with funnel on top little slow but much cleaner BIGLRY Out
Last update: 2004-10-29 10:27
Author: BIGLRY

Is there an advantage to switch to synthetic final drive oil, and if so, what would be the recommended brand and weight? Author; Tapper

Synthetic gear oil will hold up longer in the final drive, and run cooler, and your gears will wear less in the process.

There are a number of good oils for this. A lot of folks use Mobil 1 75w-90, some use the Amsoil. Both will give good service.

Stay with a 75w-90, that's the right weight.

Last update: 2005-01-15 08:19
Author: Tapper

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-20-2008, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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How to change engine oil, Oil Filter Part Numbers

How to change engine oil on the VTX


This is a write-up I did on changing oil on the 1800C but all models are basically the same exact procedure.
http://www.bareasschoppers.com/engineoil

Last update: 2004-12-18 22:44
Author: Bareass



Alternate oil filter part numbers


The following is a list of filter numbers that will work on the 1800 and 1300.
Motorcycle specific filters;
AC Delco PF2135
AMSOIL EaOM-103
FRAM PH6017A
Honda OEM #15410-MCJ-003
K&N KN-204
NAPA Gold 1358
Purolator Motorcycle ML16817
STP 07
WIX 51358

Car filters about 2.5 inches tall;
AC Delco PF1237
Bosch 3300
Mobil M1-108
NAPA Gold 1365
Purolator L14622
Purolator Pure One PL14622
STP S-02876
WalMart SuperTech ST6607

Car filters about 3.25inches tall;
AC Delco PF-2057
Bosch 3323
Castrol 7317
FRAM 7317
Mobil 1 M1-110
Motorcraft Long Life FL-821
NAPA Gold 1356
Purolator L14620
Purolator Pure One PL14620
WIX 51356


Last update: 2007-03-25 09:32
Author: Larry McKenna

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-20-2008, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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How do I drain/flush my cooling system?

How do I drain/flush my cooling system?

Be sure to use a non-silicate coolant! The manual says to use the drain bolt on the bottom of the waterpump. BTW the photo in the manual is in error when it points to the bolt. When you look at the pump, all the bolts look identical, but one, right on the bottom, has a copper washer under it that you can see if you look real close with a flashlight. That is the drain. You don't even need to remove it all the way. Pull the tank, remove the rad cap, remove the left side cover, put a pan under the waterpump (can't really use a lift here, but don't need it). Open the bolt a couple of turns and the coolant will drain right out. I did mine four days ago. Very simple procedure. I think removing the hose will accomplish the same thing, as long as the hose is at the lowest point in the system. Only prob I see with removing the hose is the slight danger of bunging up the hose, plus you'll probably make more mess.
Last update: 2004-06-25 10:25
Author: Patrick


Other Coolants the VTX Can Use Safely: Author Larry McKenna

I have safely used Engine Ice coolant in my VTX and past Honda motorcycles. Eninge Ice may be a little more expensive, but there are benefits to this coolant. Your engine may run cooler and it is safe for your pets and the environment, the main reason for my buying it. I didn't want my dog getting into any dripings that might have happened.

I found it available on the shelf at my local Honda and Yamaha Dealers. You can find stares near you on Engine Ice's website here;
http://www.engineice.cc/

First;
Are you sure that coolant you just put in there is silicate free? If you aren't, dump it out and flush the system. Silicates will destroy the water pump&seals.

Second, to fully fill the system, the tank must come off or lifted enough to fill the system fro the rad cap. Then the system must be "Burped" from that raditaor cap with the motor running.

You must fill system and reserve tank on a stand if possible, start the bike(cap off) let idle 2-3 minutes. Snap the throttle 3-4 times(twist throttle) to "Burp" the system. Stop engine and fill the system and install rad cap.

Author; Chicago-Spike, AKA Larry McKenna

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-20-2008, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Radiator Hose Collapses; Engine Overheats

Radiator Hose Collapses; Engine Overheats

Some members have noticed an overly hot engine, overheating, overly frequent fan use, or a collapsed coolant hose. The dreaded radiator cap can possibly be the culprit: Cooling System overheating problem I have noticed that my upper radiator hose collapses as the bike cools down. I have checked a number of VTXs and they do it also. This is in part caused by a low coolant condition from the factory that can cause the rear cylinder to over heat. The system wont draw from the over flow tank to fill itself either so you wont know its low. My hose stopped collapsing after the radiator was filled properly at 1st but is doing it again now. I think there is a problem with the system venting thats causing a vacuum. Anyone with some ideas ??? Bill Clean the Radiator cap Bill the only problem is Honda forgot to make sure the coolant cap under the left side of fuel tank had its vacuum disc clean. If you lift the fuel tank with bike cold remove radiator cap and lift and clean the small silver disc in middle of radiator cap and put back on all will be good (dont damage the rubber seal under disc). Lift the disc with small screw driver or finger nail then tooth brush with any dish soap even antifreeze will work. The disc allows coolant from overflow tank to be sucked back into radiator as bike cools down. This problem has been reported many times. After you do this and warm up bike, let cool then check coolant in over flow tank. You may need to add a little coolant, if so, put 50/50 mix water/antifreeze in the over flow tank, filler neck is under left side cover. Be sure to use the right kind of antifreeze, there is a difference. Honda says "Pro Honda Coolant" very pricey or any good ethylene glycol antifreeze with SILICATE-FREE corrosion inhibitors is ok. I use TEXACO long life antifreeze as it is SILICATE FREE (it is orange). It is possible to cause damage to water pump seals with SILICATE antifreeze. BIGLRY Over heating The collapsing radiator hose on my bike was caused buy a stuck underpressure valve in the radiator cap. (the underpressure valve is the one that opens to allow coolant to be "sucked" back up into the engine from the overflow tank. It is a tiny silver disk in the center of the spring loaded portion of the cap, on the coolant/engine side of the cap. It has a very light spring holding it closed.) When this valve is stuck, as mine was, and the engine can not draw coolant from the overflow tank, the vacum eventually "over powers" the water pump seal and draws in air, debris, and water pump grease into the system to relieve the vacuum. Coolant also escapes, into the water pump bearing, and totals the pump. My pump had to be replaced after 6 months, which I am guessing is how long the water pump seal hung in there. Do yourself a favor and check your radiator cap and the underpressure valve, to see that it operates freely. You should be able to pull the valve open with your thumb and index finger, easily. If the upper radiator hose is collapsing on your bike, that means this valve is not working and disaster will follow. Trust me Also, after I freed the stuck radiator cap valve (see earlier message) (had debris in it, along with caked grease) the radiator hose stopped collapsing after shutdown. Problem solved; no problems or collapsed hose since. I suspect this will be a recall / service bulletin from Honda. O.K.- I get the point- check the radiator cap. WHERE is it? On the left side of bike (as if you were sitting on it). Up under the tank. Remove the seat, and undo the tank mounting bolt. Have someone lift the rear of the tank up with handlebars turned to the left. PUT A RAG BETWEEN THE BAR AND THE TANK OR YOU WILL JOIN THOSE OF US WHO NICKED THE TANK. If you are handy, you will be able to get a hand or two to the cap and rotate it off. Loosen the disk on the underside to the cap (I also put a little spritz of WD-40 in it). Reinstall the cap - it takes some maneuvering, but I already did it twice.
Last update: 2004-08-31 09:41
Author: BIGLRY

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-20-2008, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Smell Coolant When I Am Riding

Smell Coolant When I Am Riding

So, you smell that tell-tale smell of coolant when you ride. But when you stop you don't see any leaks. Most of us have been there, and it's usually a loose hose clamp or two. The usual suspect clamps are the 2 that lie between the cylinders behind the airbox. You can get to them from the left side easier, I was able to get a long handled 6mm wrench onto the clamp to tighten. In any case, it's a good idea to tighten up any hose clamps you find.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Changing Coolant by Ceetro

Changing Coolant


Procedure goes something like this - Remove the seat, tank, left side cover and left engine cover. Remove the radiator cap and (with a drain pan underneath) remove the drain bolt. (It is the one closest to 6:00 on the Water Pump - the only one with a washer beneath it.) Hold the bike upright so it all drains. I flushed it by pouring a little fresh coolant through. Clean off the drain bolt and re-install (9 lb-ft) with a new sealing washer (PN #90463-ML7-000). I took the reserve tank right off the bike by removing the red siphon hose (bottom of tank), and the plastic filler neck. Remove the bolt and it slides right out with the other two hoses still attached. Dump the old stuff out, clean it up nice, and re-install.
Here is the tricky part - refill the system (Honda HP coolant) and start the bike . You need to do this with the gas tank off and the cap off the cooling sytsem. I have a gas can with attached fuel line so I can run the bike with the tank off. Let it run for two or 3 minutes. Blip the throttle to purge any air from the system, you will see that the thermostat opened when the coolant starts to flow. Top off the coolant (bike upright) and install rad cap - dont forget the refill the reserve tank as well. Button everything back up and go ride.

Thats it - your cooling system is protected for another 2 years.
-Ceetro

Last update: 2005-01-03 07:52
Author: Ceetro

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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OIl filters Exposed;
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

More on Oils;
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-02-2010, 12:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicago-Spike View Post
Changing Coolant


Procedure goes something like this - Remove the seat, tank, left side cover and left engine cover. Remove the radiator cap and (with a drain pan underneath) remove the drain bolt. (It is the one closest to 6:00 on the Water Pump - the only one with a washer beneath it.) Hold the bike upright so it all drains. I flushed it by pouring a little fresh coolant through. Clean off the drain bolt and re-install (9 lb-ft) with a new sealing washer (PN #90463-ML7-000). I took the reserve tank right off the bike by removing the red siphon hose (bottom of tank), and the plastic filler neck. Remove the bolt and it slides right out with the other two hoses still attached. Dump the old stuff out, clean it up nice, and re-install.
Here is the tricky part - refill the system (Honda HP coolant) and start the bike . You need to do this with the gas tank off and the cap off the cooling sytsem. I have a gas can with attached fuel line so I can run the bike with the tank off. Let it run for two or 3 minutes. Blip the throttle to purge any air from the system, you will see that the thermostat opened when the coolant starts to flow. Top off the coolant (bike upright) and install rad cap - dont forget the refill the reserve tank as well. Button everything back up and go ride.
Thats it - your cooling system is protected for another 2 years.
-Ceetro

Last update: 2005-01-03 07:52
Author: Ceetro
Hi Spike...Here is the latest method the people an the GL1800 board are using on their Wings. The filling is automatic and no burping is required.
All air is removed during the filling process.
No more spilling coolant while pouring it in with a funnel.
Spilling in a fairing is not good because it will smell for many miles.
The unit is available on Amazon.com for under $100.
I can see no reason why this could not be used on a VTX .
You must have a compressor capable of 90 psi.
I will be using it on my Wing in a couple of weeks .

http://stevelarsen.net/blog/wp-conte...View550000.pdf

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-26-2010, 02:10 PM
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Where is the Coolant Drain Plug?

I have seen several posts about folks asking for the location of the coolant drain plug - had some difficulty myself

Here - hoping it will help others...

Pic#1 shows the location (has the letter C on it)
Pic#2 the nut itself with it's copper washer
Pic#3 close-up towards the end of draining
Attached Images
File Type: jpg coolant drain plug 01.jpg (49.7 KB, 1815 views)
File Type: jpg coolant drain plug 02.jpg (16.8 KB, 663 views)
File Type: jpg coolant drain plug 03.jpg (32.1 KB, 1243 views)

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
2007 VTX1300R Dark Red Metalic
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-19-2010, 11:03 PM
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Lightbulb Draining the Coolant Reserve Tank

Page 6-5 of the 2003-2004 1300R/S maintenance manual leaves quite a bit to be desired regarding HOW EXACTLY to drain the coolant from the reserve tank. Sure; disconnect the siphon hose, empty the coolant and rinse the inside with water.

Well, after removing the coolant reserve fill cap and disconnecting the siphon hose, nothing drained. Tipping a 750 pound bike to its side to facilitate the process didn't seem rational or safe either. So I did what any other Super Genius would do; I took a long look at that black hole, looked each way the see if anyone was watching, then huffed, puffed, puckered up and BLEW the damn stuff out. Funny thing... it worked rather well. Folks, do put an old T-shirt in front of the hole though; unless you want wear the rancid stuff.

Oh, the water rinse process... take a wild guess.
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