Tires; Tire Size Calc, Car Tire List, Wheels, Final Drives, Fender Rail Pic - VTXOA
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Tires; Tire Size Calc, Car Tire List, Wheels, Final Drives, Fender Rail Pic

How to remove/install the rear wheel on a 1300 or 1800 Rather than reinvent the wheel (no pun intended) just click the link:http://www.bareasschoppers.com/rearwheel Last update: 2004-12-18 22:40Author: Bareass

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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How to remove/install the front wheel on a VTX 1800


Rather than reinvent the wheel (no pun intended) click here:
http://www.bareasschoppers.com/frontwheel

Last update: 2004-12-18 22:40
Author: Bareass

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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How to remove/install the front wheel on a VTX 1300


Rather than reinvent the wheel (no pun intended) click here:
http://bareasschoppers.com/frontwheel1300/

Last update: 2004-12-18 22:40
Author: Bareass

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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How to Remove Final Drive hub (Coyote)

How to Remove Final Drive hub (Coyote)

To remove the HUB
1. Pick up the bike with a lift
2. Loosen the bolt in front on the swing-arm that holds the brake bracket in.
3. Take out the axel by removing the nut on the brake side...tap it out...and all the way.
4. Pull the rear-brake off the disk and lay it on your pipes (no need to remove the fitting or compromise the brake system..just lay a rag on your pipe and drape it over).
5. Slide the wheel the the right (pipe side)...it will come off the spline
6. Raise the bike high and roll the tire out.
7. Take off the shock and use a piece of tape to keep it high and out of your way (tape it to the fender)
8. Take off the 4 bolts that hold the hub on.
9. Slide the hub right off. The drive line comes out with the hub...it's okay...and easy to re-install

Last update: 2004-06-23 13:38
Author: Coyote

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Car Tires being used by VTX Riders

Car Tires being used by VTX Riders


These tires and sizes are taken directly from this thread on the VTXOA.com website and from Duc;
https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthre...ight=dark+side

You can also find much more info on Car Tire use on the Dark Side forum here;
http://mcdarksiders.forumotion.com/index.htm

15 inch tires;

Bridgestone Potenza 205/65-15

Douglas Extra-Trac 205/65R15

Douglas Extra-Trac 205/70R15

General Grabber UHP 205/70/15

Goodyear Tripletred 205/65R15

Kumho 165/80/15 40psi

Michelin Hydroedge 205/70R/15 40psi

Nexen Brand (korean) 165 /80/ R15 45psi

Republic Invader Sport 215/65 15

Sears Guardsmen 111, 205/65-15


16 inch Tires;

BFG G-Force Sport 205/55/ZR16 (42PSI)

BFG T/A Sport 205/55/16

Bridgestone Potenza G009 205/60/16

Continental Extreme Contact 205/55/16

Dunlop FM901 205/55/R16

Dunlop SP 901 205/55/16

Falken 205/60/16 H Rated (41PSI)

Falken 205/55/16 Z Rated

Falken ZE-512 Ziex 205/55/R16 (43PSI)

Falken ZE-512 Ziex 205/60/R16

Firestone Affinity 205/60/16

Firestone Fusion 205/55/R16 Z Rated

General Exclaim UHP 205/55/16

Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread 195/55/16 (42PSI)

Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread 205/55/16H (40PSI,44PSI)

Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread 205/60/16H (44PSI)

Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 205/55/16

Hankook Ventus Sport K104 205/ZR55/16

Hankook Radial K106 205/55/R16

Kumho Solus 205/55/R16

Kumho 205/60/16

Kuhmo 205-65-16KH (38PSI)

Mastercraft Avenger ZHP 205/55/ZR16

Maxxis 205/55/16

Michelin Hydroedge 205/65/16 (43PSI)

Michelin Riken Raptor 205/55/ZR16

Sumitomo HTR A/S PO1 205/60 R 16

Toyo Proxes 195/65/16 V Rated

Toyo Proxes 205/60/16 V rated

Toyo T1-R 205/55R16

Yokohama AVID V4S 205/60R16

Yokohama AVS ES100 205/50/16

Yokohama 205/50/16H

Yokohama 205/60/16 H Rated

Last update: 2006-11-30 08:58

18 inch Tires

Cooper zeon zpt 215/45/zr18


Toyo Proxes T1R 215/45/18

Kumho 215/45/18


Author: Larry McKenna

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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How To Mount a Tire, by Fyrfyghtr

A picture guide to Fyrfyghtr's tire mounting rounine. Works for both motorcycle and car tires

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m...view=slideshow

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Can't shift into first gear at a stoplight

Can't shift into first gear at a stoplight


A common complaint is riders trying to shift into first gear at a stoplight and the bike will not go into gear. The solution is to quickly release the clutch and then pull it back in to get things spinning again.
VTXOA member silvervtx04s expalins why it works:

"The transmission in the X is a constant mesh transmission. Constant mesh means that each gear on one shaft has a matching free-spinning gear on the opposing shaft, which are meshed with each other at all times. This means there's no synchromesh mechanism as there's no need to bring a gear up to speed before meshing it. Gears transfer power by pinning one of the free-spinning gears to it's shaft, and in a motorcycle transmission this is done by having one of the non-free-spinning gears slide over to engage dogs into slots in the free-spinning gear. When you pull in the clutch and come to a stop you stop the rotation of the input shaft . You now have both input and output shafts stopped the dogs and slots may or may not be lined up and if you try to shift, the gears will not engage. Releasing the clutch and disengaging it will spin the input shaft allowing the dogs and slots to engage. Its all very simple once you understand how the transmission works."

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 02:26 PM
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Reusing Bearings

I know this topic has come up before and many have had questions.
So here is from (one) bearing Mfg.


http://www.goallballs.com/Bearings_seals.asp?page=WBK
REMOVING WHEEL BEARINGS:
When you knock a bearing out of a wheel, for chroming, powder coating, etc., you are fundamentally destroying that bearing. In fact, there's no other way to get it out without destroying it because it's pressed in on the outer diameter but access to the bearing is from the inner diameter. So you're putting an impact force across the balls of the bearing, which damages it. It's called loading across the bearing races. You're putting little microscopic dents into the ball and the race, and over time they get aggravated. The technical term is brinelling; when you put a shock force on an outer race to an inner race across the balls, that's what you get.

Brinelling refers to a material surface failure caused by contact stress that exceeds the material limit. This failure is caused by just one application of a load great enough to exceed the material limit. The result is a permanent dent or "brinell" mark. It is a common cause of roller bearing failures, and loss of preload in bolted joints when a hardened washer is not used. Engineers can use the Brinell hardness of materials in their calculations to avoid this mode of failure. A rolling element bearing's static load rating is defined to avoid this failure type. A similar-looking kind of damage is called false brinelling. This occurs when contacting bodies vibrate against each other in the presence of very small loads. The results is a finely polished surface that resembles a brinell mark but has not permanently deformed either contacting surface.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 09:38 AM
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Dynabeads InFo

You can purchase your dynabeads from DLP they have a application chart.
http://www.directlineparts.com/produ...id=9081&str=13

Here is a how to borrowed from the mfg. site, scroll down to M/C

http://www.innovativebalancing.com/s...m#MCAppInstall
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-09-2009, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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For those wanting to mount a 200 series tire on a C bike AND have shorter rear shocks than the stock 12.25inchers, you will have to do some cutting/grinding of the inner fender support rail. Just cut off the little "ears" as seen in this picture;


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