Remote display LED indications (Turn, F1, Fuel ect…) - VTXOA
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Cool Remote display LED indications (Turn, F1, Fuel ect…)

Hello,
I thought this was going to be an easy modification to do, all so that I wouldn’t have to look down at my speedometer to see the LED indications “distracting”.

First I hit up VTX discussion websites to see if someone had already did this and to see how they did.

Not finding anything by searching old posts, I put out a post for help:

Normal line of site of warning lights, no looking down!


This did get a few, helpful hints, and even one person that had done something similar to what I was trying to do. They gave me some information on what they remembered which was very beneficial. THANK YOU!

So on to my latest mod:

First I went on EBay ordered a bunch of different color LED’s to install (around $5.00), to the upper part of my batwing fairing. I got plain water resistant LED’s (didn’t know exactly how they would work out). EBay also has LED’s that have displays such as (arrows, fuel pump, ect…) maybe later I’ll swap them out, they are bit more pricy though.

I also ordered up a couple of water resistant multi-connection connectors to be able to easily disconnect the batwing from the bikes wiring too.

Next I needed to dig out my Clymer repair manual so I could follow the wiring diagram for my 2006 1800S. This was a problem as it shows color coded lines that are very hard to tell what each color line is with many of them having two colors on them.

Luckily I found a copy on https://tech.bareasschoppers.com/ that had words for the colors rather than the colors themselves this was a god send.

When the LED’s came in I dug right in, pulled the seats, and gas tank so I could get to the wiring.


BIG NOTE:
The LED’s have a Red and Black leads (wires) on them to indicate normal polarity Red +, and Black -
I made a an (LED test cable) to check the wires and connections, I soldered a sewing needle to one leg (input) of an LED, on the other leg first I put an inline fuse (to protect my bikes wiring) and then I soldered a sewing needle on end of the wire. I’ll include a picture, you know “worth at thousand words and all”.

I had a pretty good idea where I wanted to tie into the wiring harness; I picked the bike side of the two connectors of the wiring leads bundles going to the speedometer (the wires look to be about a size 18 or 20).


I used my (LED test cable) to check and insure I have the right cable by first poking one of the sewing needles thru the insulation of one of the wires (using the wiring diagram as a guide).

Well for the most part everything went pretty well, although there are several similar colored wires in each wiring leads bundles.

Next issue is that some of the LED’s on the speedometer are reverse fed: where you’re not adding a positive signal to complete the circuit to light the LED, but, instead adding a negative signal to complete the circuit.


1. Anyway as I identified each wire I would strip the top of the insulation of the wire back about ¼”, then use a small screwdriver to reach in between the insulation and the wire and put a bend in it.
2. Next I would strip back ¼” on the end of the wire I am tagging in, next forming it into a J and slipping it under the opening in the other wires insulation.
3. Next I soldered them together, covered with liquid tape (a kind of rubber), finely when dry would wrap with electrical tape.

I mounted the LED’s in a piece of aluminum and pop riveted to my radios mount.

I was never able to get the temperature LED to work correctly, no matter if I put a positive or negative on the remote LED, the LED would light up (which really has me scratching my head) so I gave up on that one.


Below are photos of pretty much everything, I am happy the way it turned out, just wish it had been a bit easier.


David Hilton Ret. ETC/SS
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2006 Honda VTX 1800 S.jpg (527.8 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg Wire Diag.jpg (392.5 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg pin.jpg (264.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg wiring.jpg (210.8 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg wire bend.jpg (205.6 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg liquid tape.jpg (246.0 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg dashTank.jpg (332.5 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg dash.jpg (264.8 KB, 7 views)
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Howdy from San Angelo Texas,
David Hilton Retired ETC/SS
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 08:36 PM
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Nice work.

Did you install reverse too?


Sitting on my VTX making vroom vroom sounds.

https://www.hondashadow.net/forum/me...e71386-vtx.jpg
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2006 Shadow Aero 750 (sold Oct 2018 )
2008 VTX1300T

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 10:45 PM
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What wire did you connect to on the temp light?

Green/Yellow should provide a Ground from the Temp Switch when hot.

In your owner's manual what is listed on the test lamp chart?

You did not mention that the leds have a built in resistor for use with 12 volt system.
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2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 190,260 VTX miles

Last edited by Hans&Feet; 03-19-2019 at 10:59 PM.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans&Feet View Post
What wire did you connect to on the temp light?

Green/Yellow should provide a Ground from the Temp Switch when hot.

In your owner's manual what is listed on the test lamp chart?

You did not mention that the leds have a built in resistor for use with 12 volt system.



Mr. Hans&Feet,,,,, I sent him to you.. from this post on the CAFE'

sorry if I did a bad thing.. you are the only person I would go to "IF" I got into electrical trouble. ( never happened )...
I can NOT Teach..

take care of your self... Ride Safe, Ride Often.

Chuck.


since our friend PhilsCBX not being around anymore.
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2005 VTX1800 F, type II, Silver Tribal, 86,000 Miles, Purchased Feb, 2005.
MTC clutch & springs.. K&N Air Filter. Garmin 2597 GPS.

Last edited by chuck_VTX F; 03-20-2019 at 07:05 AM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck_VTX F View Post
Mr. Hans&Feet ,,,,, I sent him to you.. from this post on the CAFE'
sorry if I did a bad thing.. ????????
you are the only person I would go to "IF" I got into electrical trouble. ( never happened )...
I can NOT Teach..
take care of your self... Ride Safe, Ride Often.
Chuck.
since our friend PhilsCBX not being around anymore.
============================================
All is good!

Forget the Lamp check, Temp led is not checked in the 2006 1800R

The reference to leds with resistors is in case someone does this and buys component leds and current limiting resistors are needed.

IN THEORY >> The Green/Yellow provides Ground from the ECT.
BUT>> when you look at the SM things get strange...

Green/Blue on Gen1 ECT to Temp light became G/Y on Gen2

ECT has 3 terminals One part is a Thermistor for engine Temp to ECM: Pink/White (sig) and Green/Orange (sensor Ground).

The other part of the ECT I would "assume" is a Temp switch.
Possibly the Ground comes from the Green/Orange sensor Ground.

Someone with a Gen2 SM, look into Section 19 (Lights/Meters/Switches) the ECT testing and see what is shown there.
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2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 190,260 VTX miles

Last edited by Hans&Feet; 03-20-2019 at 09:46 AM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Cool A little more information.

Hello,
A little on my background, I have 23 years as an electronic technician in the Navy, and I still work the the electronics field working with SCADA communications for the Colorado River Municipal Water District (CRMWD).
What hampered me the most while working on this modification was limited wiring diagrams, not a knowledge or skill level.
I posted this thread to help others, just in case they try do this or something similar.
I searched VTXOA and VTXcafe and didn't find any thread like this.
As I said in my thread: I posted a Help post, and got some help from you all. "again thank you"

I think maybe electronics in general scares some folks a bit, by some of the comments listed.

I don't want to alienate anyone, and I have learned a great deal from these forums.

Back to the Temp light:
I tried several different configurations.
I hooked up to the Green/ Yellow wire the the Black LED (everything I found points to the Green/ Yellow being ground lead from the fuel tank), I put 12V positive on the Red LED.
When turning on the power to the bike the added Temp LED lit up (it should have been out like the one on the speedometer).

Next I tried swapping the inputs to the LED, moving the Black LED lead to the 12V and the Red LED lead to the Green/ Yellow temperature wire.
And believe it or not the added LED lit up again, very puzzling.
An LED is a diode after all and blocks DC in one direction.
Feeling beaten by only one LED reading, I moved forward with all the new information that I had found and posted this tread for all, to use if they wanted to.

David Hilton Ret. ETC/SS

Howdy from San Angelo Texas,
David Hilton Retired ETC/SS
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 03:07 PM
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David,
nice project, I myself have been thinking about moving my indicator lights up above my speedometer (on the handle bars on my 1800C) for better visibility.
Which is pretty easy for us "electrical guys".
And thank you for sharing your project for the benefit of others.

As for the temp light, I have a few guesses but IMHO, the proper solution would be to tap into the circuitry in the indicator cluster, as per the diagram. Especially since I do not have any documentation on the green/yellow wire that provides the signal from the CTS. It could be as simple as switched ground or it could be analog signal that the instrument cluster interprets to trigger the light. Hans assumes it is a ground (not a bad assumption). But without actual documentation, we are all just guessing here.

Since your temp light lit up when connected between 12V and the green/yellow wire, my WAG would be that they might have used a sensor for the instrument cluster light (just like for the ECM). Hence the need for a circuit in the cluster to make the light come on. Most temperature sensors have low resistance and would allow LEDs to light up.
Can you disconnect the CHT and measure the resistance between the terminals where the green/yellow and white/pink would be?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 05:50 PM
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Yes it vould have a comparator chip in there for switching threshold..
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Cool Note

Note:
Changes or modifications to original equipment (bike) configuration have not been approved or tested by the factory.
If you attempt or make modifications to your equipment, the responsibility is yours for any damage to your equipment, as well as any required testing and safety issues are yours alone.
This post is for informational purposes, and is for entertainment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by subdude2 View Post
Hello,
I thought this was going to be an easy modification to do, all so that I wouldn’t have to look down at my speedometer to see the LED indications “distracting”.

First I hit up VTX discussion websites to see if someone had already did this and to see how they did.

Not finding anything by searching old posts, I put out a post for help:

Normal line of site of warning lights, no looking down!


This did get a few, helpful hints, and even one person that had done something similar to what I was trying to do. They gave me some information on what they remembered which was very beneficial. THANK YOU!

So on to my latest mod:

First I went on EBay ordered a bunch of different color LED’s to install (around $5.00), to the upper part of my batwing fairing. I got plain water resistant LED’s (didn’t know exactly how they would work out). EBay also has LED’s that have displays such as (arrows, fuel pump, ect…) maybe later I’ll swap them out, they are bit more pricy though.

I also ordered up a couple of water resistant multi-connection connectors to be able to easily disconnect the batwing from the bikes wiring too.

Next I needed to dig out my Clymer repair manual so I could follow the wiring diagram for my 2006 1800S. This was a problem as it shows color coded lines that are very hard to tell what each color line is with many of them having two colors on them.

Luckily I found a copy on https://tech.bareasschoppers.com/ that had words for the colors rather than the colors themselves this was a god send.

When the LED’s came in I dug right in, pulled the seats, and gas tank so I could get to the wiring.


BIG NOTE:
The LED’s have a Red and Black leads (wires) on them to indicate normal polarity Red +, and Black -
I made a an (LED test cable) to check the wires and connections, I soldered a sewing needle to one leg (input) of an LED, on the other leg first I put an inline fuse (to protect my bikes wiring) and then I soldered a sewing needle on end of the wire. I’ll include a picture, you know “worth at thousand words and all”.

I had a pretty good idea where I wanted to tie into the wiring harness; I picked the bike side of the two connectors of the wiring leads bundles going to the speedometer (the wires look to be about a size 18 or 20).


I used my (LED test cable) to check and insure I have the right cable by first poking one of the sewing needles thru the insulation of one of the wires (using the wiring diagram as a guide).

Well for the most part everything went pretty well, although there are several similar colored wires in each wiring leads bundles.

Next issue is that some of the LED’s on the speedometer are reverse fed: where you’re not adding a positive signal to complete the circuit to light the LED, but, instead adding a negative signal to complete the circuit.


1. Anyway as I identified each wire I would strip the top of the insulation of the wire back about ¼”, then use a small screwdriver to reach in between the insulation and the wire and put a bend in it.
2. Next I would strip back ¼” on the end of the wire I am tagging in, next forming it into a J and slipping it under the opening in the other wires insulation.
3. Next I soldered them together, covered with liquid tape (a kind of rubber), finely when dry would wrap with electrical tape.

I mounted the LED’s in a piece of aluminum and pop riveted to my radios mount.

I was never able to get the temperature LED to work correctly, no matter if I put a positive or negative on the remote LED, the LED would light up (which really has me scratching my head) so I gave up on that one.


Below are photos of pretty much everything, I am happy the way it turned out, just wish it had been a bit easier.


David Hilton Ret. ETC/SS

Howdy from San Angelo Texas,
David Hilton Retired ETC/SS

Last edited by subdude2; 04-14-2019 at 09:05 AM.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 04:17 PM
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Remote display LED indications (Turn, F1, Fuel ect…)

Quote:
Originally Posted by subdude2 View Post
Note:
Changes or modifications to original equipment (bike) configuration have not been approved or tested by the factory.
If you attempt or make modifications to your equipment, the responsibility is yours for any damage to your equipment, as well as any required testing and safety issues are yours alone.
This post is for informational purposes, and is for entertainment.


Someone taking you to court?


Edit: Now I see from your crashbar thread.

Sitting on my VTX making vroom vroom sounds.

https://www.hondashadow.net/forum/me...e71386-vtx.jpg
subdude2 likes this.

2006 Shadow Aero 750 (sold Oct 2018 )
2008 VTX1300T


Last edited by smurfy71; 04-14-2019 at 04:22 PM.
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