Pick a nice spot and get the bike up on a stand. This is optional, you can do it in the driveway just
as well, but I prefer to have the bike straight and the added height makes it easier on the old
back. Engine must be stone cold!!! You cannot properly check / adjust the valves on a warm bike.
Secure the forks so they don’t swing around and bash your tank when you remove it. I used some
ratcheting tie downs (not too tight!) but bungees or rope would work as well.
Unhook the green speedo connections behind the right front plug cover. Remove the gas line and
vacuum hose from the tank valve. Remove the seat and tank bolt, then lift the tank and remove
the vent hose under the bottom right corner. Lift the tank up, then slide it back and off. Set the tank
safely out of the way on 2 pieces of 2 x 4 so the valve won’t be mashed on the floor.
You will have to remove the PAIR valve bracket and hose to slide it out of the way. Remove the timing
hole cover and timing hole cap to view the index marks
The timing cap is located beneath the shiny plasti-chrome timing cover. Remove it
I found it easier to remove the airbox. Remove the three Philips and the 10mm bolt. The throttle screw
knob pops off by slipping it backwards. There are two hoses hidden behind the box that slip right off.
Remove the valve covers. To adjust the front, rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the “FT”
mark on the drive with the index mark. Remove one plug from each cylinder to make it easier to
turn the engine. Make sure you are on the compression stroke by grabbing the rocker arms
and wiggling them. If they don’t move, you will need to rotate the crank one full turn. Valves are
adjusted with a 10 mm offset box and a 4 mm open end. Intake is .006 ± .001 and Exhaust is
.012 ± .001 INCHES. If a valve is out of spec, when you loosen it, add a drop or two of engine oil
to the adjusting threads and seating surface.
Here is a shot with the “FT” mark aligned with the index to find Top Dead Center on the front cylinder.
Anywhere between the two marks is just fine.
Align the index mark to the “RT” on the drive to do the rear. Same specs.
Here is a shot with the “RT” mark aligned with the index to find Top Dead Center on the rear cylinder.
Remember to be sure you are on the compression stroke by grabbing the rocker arm and wiggling it.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data ... _Index.jpg
When you button everything back up, clean off the o-rings and check for nicks or tears. If they are i
n poor shape, they’ll need to be replaced (my originals are still on). Lubricate all the o-rings with
clean engine oil. The exhaust and timing cap threads get a coating of grease.
(4) Intake cover bolts – 6.5 lbs/ft
(1) Timing hole cap - 13 lbs/ft
(6) Tappet Locknut - 16 lbs/ft
(6) Socket bolts for plasi-chrome cover – 7 lbs/ft
(4) Spark plugs – 10 lbs/ft (Use a small amount of non-copper based anti seize on the threads)
(1) 10mm air cleaner mounting bolt – 7 lbs/ft
(3) Phillips air cleaner screws – 2.9 lbs/ft
Pictured are the tools I used – a 10mm offset box, feeler gauges, and a 4 mm open end. I had to shorten
up the .012 so it wouldn’t hit the radiator while doing the front.
I used these offest gauges from Sears....still had to trim to fit. Be sure to remove any burr from trimming them.:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... alty+Tools
Remove a spark plug from each cylinder to make it (much) easier to turn that timing bolt.
Once you adjust a cylinder - rotate the timing bolt around for a few cycles - align your mark
(compression stroke!!) and check them again. You really want to be sure you have it right - your mind will rest easier.
I like to feel a moderate drag on the correct feeler gauge. I know I got it right if both of the following is true:
(1) – the next size up does NOT fit (or fits very tightly) and (2) - the next size down slides easily.
With a little practice, you’ll be able to get them just right.
Take your time - it is not a difficult job but it does require patience. I think the hardest part was
trimming the gauges to get them to fit right and figuring the right angle to get them in there.
VERY IMPORTANT to slide it straight in there and not touch the heads. If it's flexing in at an angle you'll
get a bad read. Be warned - space is tight. Rear intake is especially tight.
BE ON THE CORRECT (COMPRESSION) STROKE!!!!
You will know this - you'll be able to feel the rockers wiggling around.
DO NOT DROP YOUR TOOLS INSIDE THE HEAD!!!! If you feel like you're the type that bad things
happen to, tie a string to those little tools.
Finally - after adjustment - your going to hear the valves - this is normal. But you know everything is
O.K. since you double checked everything. Now aren't you glad you did that?