1300 Valve Adjustment - VTXOA
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-12-2008, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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1300 Valve Adjustment

Pick a nice spot and get the bike up on a stand. This is optional, you can do it in the driveway just
as well, but I prefer to have the bike straight and the added height makes it easier on the old
back. Engine must be stone cold!!! You cannot properly check / adjust the valves on a warm bike.


Secure the forks so they don’t swing around and bash your tank when you remove it. I used some
ratcheting tie downs (not too tight!) but bungees or rope would work as well.


Unhook the green speedo connections behind the right front plug cover. Remove the gas line and
vacuum hose from the tank valve. Remove the seat and tank bolt, then lift the tank and remove
the vent hose under the bottom right corner. Lift the tank up, then slide it back and off. Set the tank
safely out of the way on 2 pieces of 2 x 4 so the valve won’t be mashed on the floor.


You will have to remove the PAIR valve bracket and hose to slide it out of the way. Remove the timing
hole cover and timing hole cap to view the index marks


The timing cap is located beneath the shiny plasti-chrome timing cover. Remove it


I found it easier to remove the airbox. Remove the three Philips and the 10mm bolt. The throttle screw
knob pops off by slipping it backwards. There are two hoses hidden behind the box that slip right off.


Remove the valve covers. To adjust the front, rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the “FT”
mark on the drive with the index mark. Remove one plug from each cylinder to make it easier to
turn the engine. Make sure you are on the compression stroke by grabbing the rocker arms
and wiggling them. If they don’t move, you will need to rotate the crank one full turn. Valves are
adjusted with a 10 mm offset box and a 4 mm open end. Intake is .006 ± .001 and Exhaust is
.012 ± .001 INCHES. If a valve is out of spec, when you loosen it, add a drop or two of engine oil
to the adjusting threads and seating surface.


Here is a shot with the “FT” mark aligned with the index to find Top Dead Center on the front cylinder.
Anywhere between the two marks is just fine.


Align the index mark to the “RT” on the drive to do the rear. Same specs.


Here is a shot with the “RT” mark aligned with the index to find Top Dead Center on the rear cylinder.
Remember to be sure you are on the compression stroke by grabbing the rocker arm and wiggling it.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data ... _Index.jpg

When you button everything back up, clean off the o-rings and check for nicks or tears. If they are i
n poor shape, they’ll need to be replaced (my originals are still on). Lubricate all the o-rings with
clean engine oil. The exhaust and timing cap threads get a coating of grease.

Torque Values:

(4) Intake cover bolts – 6.5 lbs/ft

(1) Timing hole cap - 13 lbs/ft

(6) Tappet Locknut - 16 lbs/ft

(6) Socket bolts for plasi-chrome cover – 7 lbs/ft

(4) Spark plugs – 10 lbs/ft (Use a small amount of non-copper based anti seize on the threads)

(1) 10mm air cleaner mounting bolt – 7 lbs/ft

(3) Phillips air cleaner screws – 2.9 lbs/ft

Pictured are the tools I used – a 10mm offset box, feeler gauges, and a 4 mm open end. I had to shorten
up the .012 so it wouldn’t hit the radiator while doing the front.


I used these offest gauges from Sears....still had to trim to fit. Be sure to remove any burr from trimming them.:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... alty+Tools

Notes:

Remove a spark plug from each cylinder to make it (much) easier to turn that timing bolt.

Once you adjust a cylinder - rotate the timing bolt around for a few cycles - align your mark
(compression stroke!!) and check them again. You really want to be sure you have it right - your mind will rest easier.

I like to feel a moderate drag on the correct feeler gauge. I know I got it right if both of the following is true:
(1) – the next size up does NOT fit (or fits very tightly) and (2) - the next size down slides easily.
With a little practice, you’ll be able to get them just right.

Take your time - it is not a difficult job but it does require patience. I think the hardest part was
trimming the gauges to get them to fit right and figuring the right angle to get them in there.
VERY IMPORTANT to slide it straight in there and not touch the heads. If it's flexing in at an angle you'll
get a bad read. Be warned - space is tight. Rear intake is especially tight.

BE ON THE CORRECT (COMPRESSION) STROKE!!!!
You will know this - you'll be able to feel the rockers wiggling around.

DO NOT DROP YOUR TOOLS INSIDE THE HEAD!!!! If you feel like you're the type that bad things
happen to, tie a string to those little tools.

Finally - after adjustment - your going to hear the valves - this is normal. But you know everything is
O.K. since you double checked everything. Now aren't you glad you did that?




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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-29-2008, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miker2436 View Post
Poison, small first time valve adjuster here. What exactly do you mean by "trimming" the gauges? Are you talking about trimming the "sides" of the gauges to fit in the hole. If that's what your talking about, I'm thinking of using a dremel tool with a fine grinder bit, yeah, no?

- -Miker
Cutting them shorter in length so you can fit it in the space.

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2009, 01:33 PM
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Tip to hold feeler gauge

Thank you Poison,

Three of my intake valves were too tight on my 12K mile VTX-S and this write-up was the best. Your advice to take my time was both true and comforting. I also discovered a trick that helped me hold the feeler gauges. I've read other blogs that attached them to hacksaw blades etc. But, if you want to go back and forth between the next highest and next lower gauge, you would need to mount 6 feeler gauges. You can grip any size guage in the handle made for "Exacto" knifes and it is reusable. It holds them straight, angled or side-ways which is great for the exhaust valve on the front cylinder. Together with your write-up, this was a piece of cake. Thanks again.
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File Type: jpg FeelerGaugeHolder.jpg (88.3 KB, 846 views)
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-12-2009, 10:53 AM
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Guys, this is the "How To" section and is intended to be just helpful How to threads. Please ask your questions on either the 1300 board or the 1800 Tech board. Read the sticky threads on ALL the boards before posting;
https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205902
Thanks

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2009, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HamHanded View Post
Thank you Poison,

Three of my intake valves were too tight on my 12K mile VTX-S and this write-up was the best. Your advice to take my time was both true and comforting. I also discovered a trick that helped me hold the feeler gauges. I've read other blogs that attached them to hacksaw blades etc. But, if you want to go back and forth between the next highest and next lower gauge, you would need to mount 6 feeler gauges. You can grip any size guage in the handle made for "Exacto" knifes and it is reusable. It holds them straight, angled or side-ways which is great for the exhaust valve on the front cylinder. Together with your write-up, this was a piece of cake. Thanks again.
These will work as well to hold your feeler gauges.


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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 06:36 AM
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A couple of notes...

Removing the timing cap...
I was a little confused on this. It is the large bolt head in the middle (17mm). It is quite tight, but once you remove it, with the right angle, you can see the timing marks.

Secondly, if you have floorboards, you might want to loosen the right one. It makes it easier to get to the bottom two bolts on the plasti cover.

C. USE A STRING on ANYTHING that can fall into the engine. That 4mm wrench it's almost a must.

4. When removing one plug from each cylinder... if you remove the front right and rear left, you can easily turn the engine and place a finger over the open hole to feel when you are coming up on the compression stroke. Even with your finger covering the spark plug hole, it becomes hard to turn. Now that you know you are on the right stroke, line up your marks for which ever cylinder you are on.

Finally, have a flashlight handy. It makes it easier to see your timing marks and the gaps between the adjustment screws and the valve stems.

While I only got the front intakes done on my first attempt, Poison's directions are right on. I thank him for his time and effort.

Hope this helps someone...
Steve

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 10:10 PM
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Hey, When adjusting valves, I have found it a good idea to put a zip-tie through the box end of the 4mm wrench and do not trim it off. This way, if you drop the wrench into the cylinder head, it won't fall too far into the head and there is a nice piece of nylon to grab so you can pull it back out. I found this out the hard way. That little wrench gets slippery when it has oil on it.

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 09:41 AM
 
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one more piece of info.

All my adjustments were tight except for the rear exhaust. I only had to back the adjustment screw out approx. 1/8 or a turn to achieve .006" on the intakes (middle 4) and .012" on the exhaust. My rear exhaust was fine. When adjusting the adjusters....back off the lock nut with the 10mm offset box end wrench turn your screw in til you have slight drag on the feeler. Now place the 10mm offset back on the locking nut and hold the top of the adjuster screw with the 4mm wrench. Now snug the locking screw down to the rocker arm (this will help keep from having the ajuster screw turn on you when you torque the locking nut with your torque wrench. You need to torque all lock nuts!!! Now do you double and triple checks.
Remember when your bike was new and you could hear that clatter coming from the motor....you are going to hear that again so don't be alarmed. You have just made it easier for the valves to move to fully close and things are a little looser now...just like they should be.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-24-2009, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkeene View Post
Is the correct open end wrench 4 mm it just seems to small , as I was looking at my 6mm and it just seems so tiny, just Thought maybe it was typed in wrong, sorry, I know you have already done a adjustment, also any tips on how to adjust the valves with the wrenchs, any help is greatly appreciatied rkeene
Yes, it is a 4mm wrench and how many more tips other than all the above tips?

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cal_105 View Post
What are the torque values on the lock nuts?
16 lbs/ft
I added to the how-to, and also corrected the intake cover torque.

I really don't know of many people that torque much of that stuff though - space is way to tight up under there.




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