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-   -   1300 diagrams for Charging, Starting, Ignition (https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/96-1300-section/456596-1300-diagrams-charging-starting-ignition.html)

Hans&Feet 08-02-2018 04:34 PM

1300 diagrams for Charging, Starting, Ignition
 
6 Attachment(s)
Cooling system to be added also. Read, learn, share, have fun and enjoy. Download a SM.
A specific diagram to make it easier to understand. The parts fiche is a great way to get more info.
Charging system has a permanent magnet spinning around a stator to produce electricity from magnetic fields.
The Stator produces Alternating Current, the Rectifier gates the negative and positive sine waves to produce pulses of Positive and Negative polarity.
The Regulator controls the charging voltage by shorting the Stator winding. All VTX were originally supplied with "Shunting" regulators.
Rectifier and Regulator are combined into one unit(R/R). VTX stators are 3 Phase Delta system.

The Starting System has a safety "Ground Line" to prevent cranking/running with the Kickstand down when in gear.
Kickstand has to Be UP when in gear to start the engine. The Clutch lever has to be operated to close the clutch switch.
The Neutral Switch provides the Ground necessary when in Neutral.
The Starter Switch is a common problem, headlight current going through the switch after some time with dirt and grease
will create some resistance which heats up plastic switch parts. The contacts may move slightly, the movable part of the
switch common to both switch functions may get stuck. Often the connection for the Starter Relay and Headlight are impaired.
Cleaning the contacts usually clears the problem, sometimes spring stretching or shunt tweaking is necessary.
Pictures and the process>> http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

The Ignition Control Module(ICM) outputs Ground pulses to energize the IGN coils and to control timing advance from the Throttle Position Sensor.(TPS)
The only problem with the ICM are several short wires that tend to break at the ICM connector.
Reducing stress/strain on these wires is the preventative maintenance.

RScottie 08-02-2018 04:38 PM

Thanks! Filing for future reference.

Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk

Hans&Feet 08-02-2018 05:50 PM

8 Attachment(s)
Electrical wiring is simple. 1300 only has a few fuses. Fuse designations on the schematic are NOT in alphabetical order on the fuse box in my 05 1300C.
All Green Ground wires go to a 14 pin Yellow connector block in the right frame cover in a rubber boot.
About 11 wires total, one larger Green wire goes from the 14 pin Yellow conn to the "Frame Ground" at the Front IGN coil.
This same larger Green wire shows a splice to the R/R Ground wire.
This 14 pin Yellow finally made it to a schematic in 2006. Also in 2006 two fuses were increased to higher ratings.
The Odometer memory fuse went to 10 amps and the Fan went to 20 amps.
The fan peaks at about 8 to 9 amps and if it does not spin up fast it probably exceeds the original 10 amp fuse.

There is an "Optional Fog Light" connector in the HL bucket, Honda designed it for 2 - 25 watt Halogen bulbs.
Honda and Cobra light bars use the 25 watt bulbs, a relay and a 7 amp fuse on the Speedo/tail light/Run lights/license plate light circuit.

SeaSteve 08-02-2018 06:14 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I always want to go...

Hans&Feet 08-02-2018 06:37 PM

3 Attachment(s)
1300 Cooling system. Very few problems. Fan Ground wire to fan frame may have had a few VTX with the terminal placed on a painted surface.
I cleaned and greased my VTX ground point. Fan temp switch on the bottom of radiator switches Ground to motor at 208 - 216F.
High Temp indicator goes on at 234 - 244F.

Hans&Feet 08-02-2018 07:37 PM

6 Attachment(s)
AIR, Fuel, Speedo
Breathe deep but do not kink the Crankcase Vent hose or the gearshift oil seal on the left side will pop off at an angle an allow oil to leak out.
I have an opinion that the tank is not being removed and during some of the gyrations of the airbox the hose gets kinked. It is cheap hose material.
A look from the left side and you should be able to see the hose all the way to the airbox. >Flashlight needed<<

Some people have petcock issues, seems like a vacuum lock between petcock and float valve. A flipping of the spring and vacuum diaphragm
in the petcock gives you manual operation. Some have gone to Pingel petcock.

There was a 2007 petcock recall due to separation of fiber and rubber. which resulted in a "Cover replacement" as the repair.

Want to see more about the carb, MR VTX has many pix on his "carb exposed" thread>
https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/7-vtx-1...ing-101-a.html

The carb seems to work well, EXcept the Starter Enrichment (SE)valve when it closes.
When the valve closes it does not have a good transition to run at idle. Hold the RPM a bit or do as I do and wait until after the
3rd gear shift before manually closing it. It has a friction nut to adjust the SE valve closing by altering pressure on the knob shaft.
The shaft has about 3/32 to 1/8" showing when the valve is closed. A spring will close the SE valve if the friction nut is not too tight.
Some have changed the jets when they open the air box or use a free flow air filter.
Most of those that richen the low speed jet find they do not need the SE.

The only normal wear item is the "Slide Valve" diaphragm. At 93k miles the OEM had developed so many holes/slits
that my top speed was 55 or so MPH. After another 93k miles, the first replacement had small holes/slits. More de-cel popping than normal.
Instead on investing in a $69 slide valve($60 moly coated valve + $9 diaphragm) I went with a JBM Industries $25 diaphragm.

Speedo is on the fuel tank and it may rattle. The rear 3 screws on the speedo housing fasten it to the tank.
The shoulder screws prevent the plastic from getting crushed but it could allow rattling.
O-rings or tape folded over and a hole cut into it may stop rattles.
Sometimes the speedo display can rattle if it has removed from the housing.
If you ever remove the speedo housing off you may have pushed off a small rubber insulator that fits over nose piece.

Hans&Feet 08-04-2018 01:17 PM

7 Attachment(s)
1300 engine is similar to the 1800 in several ways. Transmission gears, oil pump, coolant pump driven by oil pump shaft are similar.
The same Cam Chain Tensioner is used(14510-MCH-000 TENSIONER, CAM CHAIN)
The 1300 balancer (vibration reduction) is in the dry sump crankshaft area.
I am only aware of three 1300 engine failures, this one was sabotage(Dilligaf1300).

A few stator failures on 1300, mine was one of them.

cc rider 08-04-2018 11:39 PM

Hans, thanks for posting these. So you're saying to just flip the icm over to allow slack for those couple of tight wires and just throw some tape on there? I havent had a problem but its always nice to do a little prev. maint.

jackk 07-05-2019 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hans&Feet (Post 4548872)
Cooling system to be added also. Read, learn, share, have fun and enjoy. Download a SM.
A specific diagram to make it easier to understand. The parts fiche is a great way to get more info.
Charging system has a permanent magnet spinning around a stator to produce electricity from magnetic fields.
The Stator produces Alternating Current, the Rectifier gates the negative and positive sine waves to produce pulses of Positive and Negative polarity.
The Regulator controls the charging voltage by shorting the Stator winding. All VTX were originally supplied with "Shunting" regulators.
Rectifier and Regulator are combined into one unit(R/R). VTX stators are 3 Phase Delta system.

The Starting System has a safety "Ground Line" to prevent cranking/running with the Kickstand down when in gear.
Kickstand has to Be UP when in gear to start the engine. The Clutch lever has to be operated to close the clutch switch.
The Neutral Switch provides the Ground necessary when in Neutral.
The Starter Switch is a common problem, headlight current going through the switch after some time with dirt and grease
will create some resistance which heats up plastic switch parts. The contacts may move slightly, the movable part of the
switch common to both switch functions may get stuck. Often the connection for the Starter Relay and Headlight are impaired.
Cleaning the contacts usually clears the problem, sometimes spring stretching or shunt tweaking is necessary.
Pictures and the process>> http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

The Ignition Control Module(ICM) outputs Ground pulses to energize the IGN coils and to control timing advance from the Throttle Position Sensor.(TPS)
The only problem with the ICM are several short wires that tend to break at the ICM connector.
Reducing stress/strain on these wires is the preventative maintenance.


Hans, great pics! A picture is worth 1000 words.

cc rider 07-05-2019 10:02 PM

Hans is probably one of the best contributors to a forum that I have seen. And I have been to many


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