I have recently upgraded from a 2005 vtx 1300R to a 2003 vtx 1800C. Love the power but I have been reading that there are several known issues with the 1800's.
The bike has 7k miles on it. It has a few rust spots as well...and ordinary wear to be 16 years old.
Anyway, other than looking for final drive fluid leaks or pulling the wheel off, how would I know if I had a bad wheel bearing?
Also, the front shocks/springs/struts...are the typically a little bouncy on the 1800?
Your post asks about wheel bearings, but your thread title asks about flange bearings. Two very different things. But they can both let you know via noise that they are gone. The better way to identify "time to replace" is just to feel them when you've got rear wheel off bike. If they roll smoothly, they are good. If you feel roughness, then shell out a few bucks.
The flange bearings seem to get lots of hype, but lots of people have reported having them almost completely reduced to rust and grit and it still didn't have any catastrophic impact on the bike. Not that I'm saying it's unimportant to have the pumpkin and wheel spin smoothly on the same axis... but just that flange bearing degradation won't likely leave you on the side of the road. Just a good thing to PM whenever your rear wheel is off for lube PM or tire replacement.
Back in the day when I was made aware of the issue thru the forum...I purchased several from trike conversions...now when ever I change out a tire ...I rotate out a flange...good luck..
There are 2 flange bearings, in the final drive mounted back to back. You feel them/rotate them when you have the wheel off for new tire. If they are smooth to rotate they are fine. There are then, 2 wheel bearings inside the wheel one on either side
I don't know if Honda ever fixed the issue in later years but certainly early models were prone to flange bearing failure. I have an early 2002 VTX1800C, I can't remember the mileage, when the flange bearings failed it's too many years ago now, but it was around the time of the second rear tire change. I replaced them and they failed again a tire change or two later. My thought was that the combined medium press fit of the bearing O.D. into the flange housing and the flanged bushing pressed into the bearing bore was excessive to the point where the internal clearance in the bearing races was reduced enough to cause premature failure. So on the second replacement, I polished both the O.D. of the bushing and the bore of the flange housing just enough to reduce the press fit to a light press fit, that was over 40,000 miles ago. When I changed the rear tire last year, the bearings were still in good condition.
Not wheel bearings but rather flange bearings, on mine I saw mangled chunks of metal hanging in the grease when I changed the rear tire. No symptoms whatsoever. The pair of bearings are standard 6905RS bearings available anywhere. What it looked like cleaned up.
So looking at the 2002-2008 VTX1800C/F service manual per page 14-7, the diagram at bottom indicates to replace 3 bearings
1. Final Driven Flange A bearing (6905 RS) with new O-ring
2. Bearing (6304UU)
3. bearing (20 x 47 x 20.6mm) - does this one have bearing number ??? with new O-ring
3. Dust seal
5. Brake Disc bolts
In post #11 above, Enduro mentions a pair of 6905RS bearings. Is that in a 1300 ?
That doesn't seem right according to 1800 pic attached.
Would it not be a good idea to buy double seal bearings to keep crap out ?
So looking at the 2002-2008 VTX1800C/F service manual per page 14-7, the diagram at bottom indicates to replace 3 bearings
1. Final Driven Flange A bearing (6905 RS) with new O-ring
2. Bearing (6304UU)
3. bearing (20 x 47 x 20.6mm) = 5204-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing, 20x47x20.6 (Double row)
3. Dust seal
5. Brake Disc bolts
In post #11 above, Enduro mentions a pair of 6905RS bearings. Is that in a 1300 ?
1300 and 1800 Bottom right corner of the PDF shows cut open view,
you can see double 6905RS bearings.
That doesn't seem right according to 1800 pic attached.
Would it not be a good idea to buy double seal bearings to keep crap out ?
I should have spent 30 minutes with a brake cylinder hone to get the light press in on the driven flange,
I used a 5/8" bolt and the bearing stack tilted some on install. I had to correct that. My vise would have done better,
How do you know if the bearings are GOOD? Put your finger(s) on the inner race and twist back and forth.
Remove flange, insert favorite finger into inner race, and spin the unit. Anything but smooth turning is bad...
That double row ball bearing here in San Diego from Kaman bearing - Koyo brand - $54 for one ......wow expensive.....however I have seen other brands for cheaper....
The 6905 & 6304 are reasonable.....
When pressing into the hub, always press in by the outer race of the bearing. I use the old bearing on top of new bearing when doing so.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Honda VTX Forum
4M posts
80K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Honda VTX owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!