|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-22-2016 09:41 PM|
|Neewbie||My thought process was with the pipes still installed and not removed from the bike. In either case it would have been simple task for me to figure out. You could say Im mechanically incline.|
|09-22-2016 09:28 PM|
|House O' Pain||
Originally Posted by dud-57 View Post
This is actually what I did with the second set of pipes I put a lollipop baffle in, but those pipes were a straight shot. I've done this with the pipes in the photo and another set of straight fishtail pipes.
Just goes to show there are more than one way to 'skin a cat'.
|09-22-2016 03:03 PM|
|dud-57||When I faced a similar project, it didn't occur to me to try a vacuum. I simply put my monofilament line thru the drilled hole... fed it down the pipe til it came out the end. THEN, I attached it to the bolt and pulled the bolt back inside the pipe and into position.|
|09-22-2016 02:05 PM|
|House O' Pain||
Originally Posted by Neewbie View Post
Thanks for your suggestions.
Based on my experience a flex grabber isn't needed if you have secured your string to the end of the lollipop bolt (I didn't use a grabber). Once you pull the string through the drilled hole in the side of your pipe the lollipop bolt should come right through the hole with no difficulty. You then flip the pipe over so the bolt is now held in place by gravity with the threads out of the hole, ready for the nut. A grabber might help keep the bolt from being pushed back in when you put the nut on the end, but not likely if as in my case, it would have had to go past a bend that would force the grabber shaft to orient against the top of the pipe, and thus the bolt as well. My string was Kevlar so it was strong enough for me to pull down on it enough to keep the bolt in place as I screwed the nut on the end, at least until it needed torque enough to start the bolt rotating.
In my case, I didn't cut a deep enough slot in the end of the lollipop bolt for a screwdriver to hold it into place. Once you see what a tiny surface the end of a 3/8" bolt is, you will see how hard it is to cut a deep enough slot into it for a screwdriver to hold it securely, and still allow enough thread on the outside for your nut to hold. I'm not saying it can't be done, just that it didn't seem like a viable solution compared to holding the nut in place from rotation with the flexible conduit I used.
|09-21-2016 10:59 PM|
1) File a small slot parallel to the lollipop face. This will be to hold the lollipop with a screw driver and orientate the lollipop for proper placement. If the lollipop has different facing use a sharpie and mark half of the slot to indicate forward or rear facing.
2) Tie a piece of small foam to a string.
3) Insert the foam from the exterior of the 3/8 hole and use a vacuum cleaner at the open end of the exhaust pipe to suck the foam.
4) Remove the foam and tie the string to the lollipop thread rod.
5) Use a flex grabber and grab the lollipop.
6) Insert the lollipop with the grabber and use the string as a guide to the 3/8 hole.
7) Work your patience to get the threaded portion to exit out the 3/8 hole.
8.) With the grabber still in place, if need be, remove the string, insert the nut and finger tighten. Remove the grabber if need be, align the sharpie marked to the correct orientation. Use a small screw driver inserted in the slot and tighten the nut. Verify orientation.
Thats how I would approach that problem.
8a) If by tightening the nut and the screw driver is not able able to hold the orientation in place, retard the orientation of the lollipop such that your final torque of the nut aligns to the correct orientation.
|09-21-2016 11:27 AM|
|stevie||I made my own set of baffles with a lollipop. If you look online, there are pictures of what thunder monster or others sell, I went to auto zone and they have a menagerie of exhaust pipe fittings including reducers. I pieced together what I wanted and spent maybe $25 on exhaust parts and hardware. It's a little louder than the baffles that came with my aftermarket pipes but I like the tone better. And performance works for me. Like HoP, I put the lollipop about 6" from the end of the pipes per recommendations I found online.|
|09-20-2016 11:04 PM|
|House O' Pain||
Originally Posted by harvey View Post
A lot of riders feel the same way you do, and this is why modified motorcycles for noise and power are becoming less of something we see, or in my case experience. For some like me, there is nothing like hearing raw power displayed in a motorcycle, and the joy of tweaking your ride for a little more 'juice' than stock. Soon enough everyone will be riding totally silent electric motorcycles and loud pipes will be 'unheard of' to toss in a pun.
Out here if I get stopped for too loud pipes, it's simply a 'fix it' ticket. I'd just have to mount stock baffles back on and that's about it, no big deal.
|09-20-2016 07:34 PM|
I would not even try to do this! After reading about Harley and the EPA, I suspect they will soon be going after any motorcycle that does not have stock pipes and injection/carb system. FranklyI cannot afford the fine, possible loss of bike, nor the pure inconvenience of such an event.
Besides, most aftermarket pipes do not reduce noise from stock, and most aftermarket pipes do not significantly increase torque nor horsepower. At least not enough to justify the expense.
But that is just one persons opinion.
|09-20-2016 05:22 PM|
|House O' Pain||
Originally Posted by VTXRN View Post
Actually, yes—something like the tool in the photo below could work to get the lollipop down the pipe past the bend, however once even a flexible extension goes through the pipe bend, the bend would tend to hold the wire against the top of the pipe that comes right after the bend and it becomes near impossible to place it down or up, as you could with a straight pipe. You wouldn't need a camera, if you just scored the end of the lollypop as indicated in the previous 'ideas' and my actual application. I would say that my string idea was so easy and cost-effective that anybody that wanted to use a 'grabber' could try it and I'm betting the string method would get it done faster.
Since the solution to this 'puzzle' has already been presented, the challenge now becomes to find an even easier or better method than I came up with.
|09-20-2016 05:13 PM|
I bought a 650 V-star back in April and it had custom shorty exhaust on it. The pipes had no baffles and within 6 miles of riding it my ears were ringing. I had to do something and they have bends right at the end.
So, I've made straight baffles before for a bike that worked good but they wouldn't work on this one. You can buy flex baffles but they aren't cheap. So, I decided to go with the Lollipop baffles. I just welded bigger washers too bolts and then mounted them in the pipes. What a difference. Seems to have more torque at take off and the sound is at least half what it was and the sound is good as well. I now love the sound of the bike.
I mounted mine right at the end of the pipes just far enough in so you can't see them. I did it more to cut the sound more than anything.
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