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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-28-2019 09:24 AM
JPT Volt meter installed. I haven't had a chance to test out the system on road as it was 26 degrees yesterday with a snow dusting.

This is more about my exhaust, but you can see the volt meter stuck to the triple tree towards the ending of the video:

02-20-2019 02:00 PM
JPT Thanks.

I will be adding a voltage meter. Right now I'm trying to get my new exhaust mounted. Apparently the 2009 has a different muffler bracket than earlier 1300R's.

I will be back to tackling electronics after that.
02-20-2019 01:23 PM
enduro
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPT View Post
...Also it install a system volt meter to monitgor the voltage levels so I can make sure I am adequately charging the system?
I think it is essential to have a voltage monitor, again, that system is capable of using about 450W and you only have about 120W. On the X I had the Kuryakyn linked above but in chrome, comes with sticky foam on the bottom and mounted it on top of the triple tree next to the left riser. On my GS I went with a sparkbright multicolor single LED. I like the sparkbright better as I only need to see one light. Not sure if the sparkbright would mount under the tank console on the X. I think every bike should have a monitor, bike's electrical systems are probably the most prone area to failure. Good to know about a developing problem before it becomes a showstopper.

http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/battery...e-monitors.php
02-19-2019 01:02 PM
prkuehn
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPT View Post




They originally had the speakers wired using option 2 with their speakers.



Right now, I have it wired with option 1 with the Polk Audio speakers.



Is the consensus that I should be changing the wiring Back to Option 2 using the Polk speakers, then add a voltmeter?



Thanks!


I would change it to option 2 given that is how the manufacturer setup the system.
02-19-2019 11:41 AM
JPT

They originally had the speakers wired using option 2 with their speakers.

Right now, I have it wired with option 1 with the Polk Audio speakers.

Is the consensus that I should be changing the wiring Back to Option 2 using the Polk speakers, then add a voltmeter?

Thanks!
02-19-2019 09:25 AM
prkuehn
Batwing Amp Wiring

The user manual for the amp addresses the speaker ohm relative to bridged usage. It specifies to use either 4 or 8 ohm speakers for bridged.



The troubleshooting also references how to remedy an issue if the overload protection is triggered.



Without a doubt, running the output in 4 or 8 ohm will reduce the chance of amp failure. The screenshots were taken from the NGMD60.4 manual.

How was it wired from Tsukayu when you received it? Reach out to their technical support for confirmation of the setup.
02-18-2019 11:45 PM
Daniel.Longnecker
Quote:
Originally Posted by prkuehn View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPT View Post
Thank you for all the information.



So is the suggestion to go back to a non-bridged setup? Also it install a system volt meter to monitgor the voltage levels so I can make sure I am adequately charging the system?



Thanks


I would leave the amp like it is, but adding a voltage indicator would take the guesswork out.

https://www.denniskirk.com/kuryakyn/...prd/406981.sku
Leaving 2 speakers in parallel across 2 channels will potentially damage your amplifier, especially if the voltage is dropping below 12v. The Amp is 4 ohm stable bridged, not 2 ohm. See my first post. Rewire to a stable load and if you can use an oscilloscope to tune the gain for a clean signal.
02-18-2019 08:20 PM
prkuehn
Batwing Amp Wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by JPT View Post
Thank you for all the information.



So is the suggestion to go back to a non-bridged setup? Also it install a system volt meter to monitgor the voltage levels so I can make sure I am adequately charging the system?



Thanks


I would leave the amp like it is, but adding a voltage indicator would take the guesswork out.

https://www.denniskirk.com/kuryakyn/...prd/406981.sku
02-17-2019 06:56 PM
JPT Thank you for all the information.

So is the suggestion to go back to a non-bridged setup? Also it install a system volt meter to monitgor the voltage levels so I can make sure I am adequately charging the system?

Thanks
02-17-2019 09:24 AM
prkuehn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel.Longnecker View Post
Great info, I didnt even think about the charging system. In that case OP could just wire 1 speaker to channel 1 and 1 speaker to channel 2 with the 60w x 4 @ 4ohm rating and be around 120w total. Also there are lithium batteries that can help to upgrade the electrical system. Do they make high output stators for the X? Most car audio guys use high output alternators to keep up with electrical demand.


There are several past threads that addressed potentially increasing power through modifying the stator. I donít remember reading anything that provided an appreciable change. If you canít up the supply then the next choice is lower the demand. I replaced all lights with LED to decrease the required power to run the system. To monitor my power level I installed a power meter that uses a single multicolored led. Green is great, yellow is caution, and red means you better makes some changes. If Iím jamming to tunes while riding in stop and go traffic, I will see the light move between green and yellow as the cooling fan kicks on. At that point I know it is time to make a change and turn the stereo down thus reducing the power being demanded. For several years this simple yet effective process has served me well. Iíve never been stuck somewhere with a dead bike battery.

My amp setup is an Alpine 445 that is 4x45 Watts. The Jensen radio I have doesnít pull a continuous power for memory to slowly drain the battery which helps. Between the led turn signals, brake light and headlight I have reduced power demand by about 40 watts total which also considers 20 watts for driving lights. The power relay for everything in the fairing is cut off when the starter button is pushed to provide the most possible power for starting the bike.
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