VTXOA - Reply to Topic
Thread: Rear Brake Liight Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the VTXOA forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-25-2019 10:50 PM
jackk Pried it partially apart, sprayed a lot of contact cleaner in the switch, pinched it closed and it works. Now that I am convinced it is the switch, I will probably replace it. Squeezing the brake lever releases the pin/contacts, light comes on, so it is a normally closed switch.


06-25-2019 10:16 PM
Hans&Feet It could be, then the brake lever is holding it open until you operate the lever.
06-25-2019 07:22 PM
Pioneer Just to satisfy my stupidity, is that supposed to be a normally closed switch as it appears in the first pic from Hans?
06-25-2019 10:50 AM
Hans&Feet I believe two plastic pins hold the pieces together.
I believe I cut/ground off/drilled (one of those choices) the head and it came apart.
Many years ago.
06-25-2019 10:26 AM
jackk
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans&Feet View Post
I had an issue with the front brake switch once.
It happened after a long ride in the rain.
A little blob of crap formed on the contacts.
For me when the switch was activated, the brake light had a delay before the bulb would begin to light up.
It never got to full illumination. It was as if it was on a dimmer.
I also had leds connected to the brake circuit and when the voltage finally got up to 8 volts the leds would light up.
A scraping of the contacts and a shot of WD40 and still working after all these years.

That little blob was like a thermistor on the fuel level gauge, when it got hot the lamp would light up.
The brake filament takes about 2 amps vs microamps on the DMM continuity test.

How does that come apart?
06-25-2019 09:15 AM
Hans&Feet I had an issue with the front brake switch once.
It happened after a long ride in the rain.
A little blob of crap formed on the contacts.
For me when the switch was activated, the brake light had a delay before the bulb would begin to light up.
It never got to full illumination. It was as if it was on a dimmer.
I also had leds connected to the brake circuit and when the voltage finally got up to 8 volts the leds would light up.
A scraping of the contacts and a shot of WD40 and still working after all these years.

That little blob was like a thermistor on the fuel level gauge, when it got hot the lamp would light up.
The brake filament takes about 2 amps vs microamps on the DMM continuity test.
06-25-2019 07:52 AM
jackk
Rear Brake Liight

Light doesn't come on with the front brake lever. I jump the wires at the switch and light comes on. I bench tested the switch for continuity and it tested O.K. Reinstalled the switch and no brake light. Did this several times and also sprayed contact cleaner heavy on the switch and the button area. It seams like such a simple circuit. I will be ordering a new switch. Any suggestion's?.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome