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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've watched some videos on how to do this. I'm a bit more confused. I can get up to finding TDC on compression stroke. Can I adjust all 3 valves- 2 intake and 1 exhaust at same time? It's compression stroke and all valves should be closed. Then rotate crank to second mark for rear cylinder and do the same? Am I correct? I'm a new owner of this bike and first time doing this, dont wanna muck it up!
 

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Howdy from Texas and welcome to the family. (we are a big family here)
Sorry, I do not have an answer for you (but I will need to do the adjustment sooner or later) but somebody smarter than me will be along shortly to answer your question (lots of smart folks here).
In the meantime, feel free to introduce yourself in the New Member forum. And don't forget pictures. We are suckers for pictures!
 

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I've watched some videos on how to do this. I'm a bit more confused. I can get up to finding TDC on compression stroke. Can I adjust all 3 valves- 2 intake and 1 exhaust at same time? It's compression stroke and all valves should be closed. Then rotate crank to second mark for rear cylinder and do the same? Am I correct? I'm a new owner of this bike and first time doing this, dont wanna muck it up!
(y)

 

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Yes, as long as you are sure the cylinder you want adjust is at TDC compression you can do all the valves, intake and exhaust. Do this job on a day you will have plenty of time. Take anything in your way loose and move it. Take some pics as you go to aid reassembly. It's really not that bad of a chore. I use the go-no go method. Example: clearance stated at .010". Set clearance so a .009" blade wil fit (go), and a .011" blade will not (no go).
 

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When the crankshaft is at TDC, you should be able to move the rockers some.
Do not use Blast's feeler gauge sizes, he has 1800 and it is different from 1300 specs.
I have a few docs with info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, as long as you are sure the cylinder you want adjust is at TDC compression you can do all the valves, intake and exhaust. Do this job on a day you will have plenty of time. Take anything in your way loose and move it. Take some pics as you go to aid reassembly. It's really not that bad of a chore. I use the go-no go method. Example: clearance stated at .010". Set clearance so a .009" blade wil fit (go), and a .011" blade will not (no go).
Thank you for your response sir! I watched several helpful videos and they all only show 1 valve and stop. Like I said in original post I hoped I could adjust all 3 since it was at TDC and on compression stroke. All valves should be closed and could be adjusted, but the videos don't show that. Seems very simple to those who have done it, I just wanted to be sure! Thank you. I have all day to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for your response sir! I watched several helpful videos and they all only show 1 valve and stop. Like I said in original post I hoped I could adjust all 3 since it was at TDC and on compression stroke. All valves should be closed and could be adjusted, but the videos don't show that. Seems very simple to those who have done it, I just wanted to be sure! Thank you. I have all day to do this.
Well, got them all adjusted and whomever decided to put all that stuff over top of the rear cylinder intake valve cover needs to get medical help. Starts and runs great, very little noise from top of cylinders, but now I have backfire through exhaust on deceleration. It happened a little before, but now it's more pronounced. I read it could be unburned fuel in exhaust due to fuel/air mixture. Would that be too rich or too lean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Were any out of adjust. and by how much?
Oh yea, front intakes were outside 8. I tried 6&7 but still too loose. Front exhaust was loose also but set it back to 12. The rear exhaust was way loose!!! Rear intakes were right on. I checked all of them before loosening them. Glad I did the adjust, dont know if prior owner ever had them done. I've only had the bike about year and half.
 

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Leave any vacuum hoses off? Do anything to PAIR valve, or reed cover where air is injected into
exhaust port?
Residual A/F in exhaust will pop if air enters pipe == Exhaust explosions from air leaking into exhaust.
Loose exhaust gasket.
Stock pipes or OEM??

Did you bend the feeler gauge blades so they would lay flat between
valve stem and the rocker arm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Leave any vacuum hoses off? Do anything to PAIR valve, or reed cover where air is injected into
exhaust port?
Residual A/F in exhaust will pop if air enters pipe == Exhaust explosions from air leaking into exhaust.
Loose exhaust gasket.
Stock pipes or OEM??

Did you bend the feeler gauge blades so they would lay flat between
valve stem and the rocker arm?
Yes, bent them to get into tight quarters. No
Leave any vacuum hoses off? Do anything to PAIR valve, or reed cover where air is injected into
exhaust port?
Residual A/F in exhaust will pop if air enters pipe == Exhaust explosions from air leaking into exhaust.
Loose exhaust gasket.
Stock pipes or OEM??

Did you bend the feeler gauge blades so they would lay flat between
valve stem and the rocker arm?
Yes, bent the gages to be able to get into tight quarters. No changes to exhaust and all hoses put back in proper places. The pipes are Vance and Hines and were on when I bought it 1 1/2 yrs ago. It only pops when decelerating, not acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, bent them to get into tight quarters. No

Yes, bent the gages to be able to get into tight quarters. No changes to exhaust and all hoses put back in proper places. The pipes are Vance and Hines and were on when I bought it 1 1/2 yrs ago. It only pops when decelerating, not acceleration.
I'm sorry, what is the pair valve or reed cover? I've probably worked with but never knew what it's called.
 

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After market pipes do not have all the partitions that a OEM pipe has.
The "PAIR" Pulsed Air Injection is to ignite the residual Air/Fuel in the exhaust pipe.
Pops/explosions are muted with OEM pipes. Aftermarket>>> explosions.
Straight pipes -- about everyone has the PAIR removed.
I removed PAIR stuff, put a few threads on the reed valve cover on it and sealed it tight.
Some others buy the reed valve cover. Reed valve cover on top and behind cylinder/spark plug cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I decided to go with the pair mod. I ordered the kit with dimple to keep things simple. It should arrive today. It looks really simple and am excited about how much room over the engine I can get. Will let you know how it goes!
 

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From my experience with these bikes, you can expect a reduction in popping but, not elimination. My '02 C model (150,000 miles) which has had the PAIR and other crap removed for many years still pops some times. I have never quite figured it out. Meaning there does not seem to be any rhyme or reason as to when it does and does not do it. The mod does clean up the look of the top of the engine real nice. If you don't know when the valves were last adjusted it would be a good idea to do that too.
 
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