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06 Vtx1800R/S hp/tq numbers low

723 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Houser1995
I am going to list my mods related to performance right off the bat so that anyone who doesn’t want to read all this can just look at them and the dyno sheet and see if things look right. Bike is a 06 1800S3 with a 1300 final drive. I do not know what final was in during the dyno run (I can only assume the stock 1800 F/D was used)

Exhaust - Cobra longshots with power port

Baffles - Original thunder monsters that were bolted into the original baffle holes in the pipes.

Intake - Maxflo by Maxair Engineering.

Fuel Manager - PCIII Usb


Hello all! This is my first post on here but I’ve been lurking this forum for countless hours since I picked up my x a month ago.

It came with a good amount of documentation and oem takeoff parts and I’m still digging through things and finding stuff.

But anyways the entire point of this thread is a dyno sheet I found the day I bought my x. I had thought that the hp/tq numbers looked pretty darn low, at 88.39 HP and 101 ft/lb TQ

So the next day I went out with my computer and pulled the map off the pc3. Well the tuner seemed to have not touched anything in the lower rpm range (500-1250 or so) if I’m recalling correctly anyways. I was also having a lean bog when chopping the throttle in the low to mid rpm range that I noticed right off the bat. It was only an issue when “rev matching” on downshifts, so I decided to turn on the accelerator pump feature on the pc3 despite reading mixed opinions about it. And boy did that change my throttle response! It was worlds better tbh. Since then I have played around with the settings and tamed the accelerator pump down to the bare minimum while keeping throttle response as good as it will get on these big ol monster twins.

Aside from playing with the accelerator pump feature i tinkered with the buttons at first and then tweaked the original dyno map and my “Butt Dyno” runs indicated that more fuel in the low and mid rpm range seems to really wake the bike up! And I mean it went from pulling me back and lifting the front suspension some (before acc pump or tweaks to fueling) to literally pulling my A** back a couple inches into the seat and maxing out the front forks uptravel in a wide open second gear pull from low rpm.

All in all I’m starting to wonder if the original owner (Classicxman) asked the shop to tune for mileage and performance or if they were going for all out performance and just didn’t know how to get it.

I have switched back to the original dyno map without any modifications to it but left the accelerator pump feature on and set to 5% increase for 10 engine revolutions and been paying attention to my mileage at fill ups and I seem to be getting around 26 mpg (but I cannot keep my right hand out of the throttle) the best I got was a partial fill up that was 35 mpg. The problem is I can’t remember if I reset the odometer on that run🤦🏻‍♂️

Either way any and everyone’s opinion or advice is appreciated!
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88hp is the stock output at the wheel. The Honda claimed 106hp is just the engine numbers on a bench dyno, no drivetrain loss. As far as why they started that low with the add-ons, you probably guessed right. The previous owner has taken the time to swap out to a 1300 final drive to lower the cruising RPMs for better gas mileage so it is a good bet he had the PC3 tuned for best MPGs not power. Unless you are racing, there's really no need for max power. As far as the accelerator pump feature, leave it off. It just wastes fuel and as the VTX runs rich at the mid and upper ranges, it's just dumping more fuel where there is too much already.
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88hp is the stock output at the wheel. The Honda claimed 106hp is just the engine numbers on a bench dyno, no drivetrain loss. As far as why they started that low with the add-ons, you probably guessed right. The previous owner has taken the time to swap out to a 1300 final drive to lower the cruising RPMs for better gas mileage so it is a good bet he had the PC3 tuned for best MPGs not power. Unless you are racing, there's really no need for max power. As far as the accelerator pump feature, leave it off. It just wastes fuel and as the VTX runs rich at the mid and upper ranges, it's just dumping more fuel where there is too much already.
Thanks spike! And I am 100% certain it is running the 1300 as I have the 1800 final in a box that came with the bike. I also managed to find the original owner on Facebook and I chat with him from time to time. But he can’t quite remember everything timeline wise, I mean it was about 15 years ago it was on the dyno! His name is mike but he goes by Classicxman on here. The dyno tune is actually one of the ones on bare’s site come to mention it.

Either way wouldn’t you expect a 300 plus dollar dyno run to yield some sort gains with one of the best flowing intakes and longshots with power port? Whether or not he was looking for mileageI would think that optimizing the fuel curve would still yield some hp and tq gain.

As for the acc pump I had turned it off but it’s honestly unbearable, the throttle response is horribly laggy without it especially down low. And I’m not talking about the second it takes for the engine to get spun up. A lean bog on throttle chop Is a very distinct thing and I’m sure you know what I’m talking about. As for now it’s set low and short enough now that I’m not concerned with fouling ect. I’ve been keeping an eye on my plugs and cleaning them up when I make any changes. But it seems to be burning just right where I’m at now.

I also pulled an all nighter last night and did my oil change, ground fix, snipped the plug wires on the coil side, replaced the rubber vac caps on the manifold, and tidied up the previous owners rat nest of wiring that he had all cobbled together for the stereo. And I also fixed the ultimate lo boy seat the he decided to rip off while it was still bolted down on the right side.. I don’t get why people get so impatient with beautiful bikes and half ass things.. I’m all for rigging up my dirt machines but not a beautiful vtx!
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Thanks spike! And I am 100% certain it is running the 1300 as I have the 1800 final in a box that came with the bike. I also managed to find the original owner on Facebook and I chat with him from time to time. But he can’t quite remember everything timeline wise, I mean it was about 15 years ago it was on the dyno! His name is mike but he goes by Classicxman on here. The dyno tune is actually one of the ones on bare’s site come to mention it.

Either way wouldn’t you expect a 300 plus dollar dyno run to yield some sort gains with one of the best flowing intakes and longshots with power port? Whether or not he was looking for mileageI would think that optimizing the fuel curve would still yield some hp and tq gain.

As for the acc pump I had turned it off but it’s honestly unbearable, the throttle response is horribly laggy without it especially down low. And I’m not talking about the second it takes for the engine to get spun up. A lean bog on throttle chop Is a very distinct thing and I’m sure you know what I’m talking about. As for now it’s set low and short enough now that I’m not concerned with fouling ect. I’ve been keeping an eye on my plugs and cleaning them up when I make any changes. But it seems to be burning just right where I’m at now.

I also pulled an all nighter last night and did my oil change, ground fix, snipped the plug wires on the coil side, replaced the rubber vac caps on the manifold, and tidied up the previous owners rat nest of wiring that he had all cobbled together for the stereo. And I also fixed the ultimate lo boy seat the he decided to rip off while it was still bolted down on the right side.. I don’t get why people get so impatient with beautiful bikes and half ass things.. I’m all for rigging up my dirt machines but not a beautiful vtx!
I see you're from the Cook Forest area- very nice up there. I'm 3 hrs. south, near the Johnstown 1889 Flood Memorial site.
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That's a nice dyno sheet and good results. As Spike already pointed out, these are numbers at the wheel, not the crank which is what manufacturers advertise. So you gotta remove 20-25% (drive-train losses) of the advertised numbers to get wheel numbers.
And welcome to the club, of course.
Got any pictures of her? We are suckers for pictures!
You can post them in an intro post in the New Member forum, if you'd like, that's the best place for them.
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Flowing a lot and making the flow into the throttle body smooth are not the same. Yes, those Marxair allow lots of air through the foam, but it doesn't do anything for smoothing the air and routing it better into the throttlebody. Same thing with the Hypercharger, people think it must act like a RAM air intake and it's far from the truth. In fact the Hyper is no better than the OEM airbox because it disrupts the flow so much.

Aside from all that, if you're not racing it to make a living, tune it for running good and good mileage and just ride it and be happy.
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Flowing a lot and making the flow into the throttle body smooth are not the same. Yes, those Marxair allow lots of air through the foam, but it doesn't do anything for smoothing the air and routing it better into the throttlebody. Same thing with the Hypercharger, people think it must act like a RAM air intake and it's far from the truth. In fact the Hyper is no better than the OEM airbox because it disrupts the flow so much.

Aside from all that, if you're not racing it to make a living, tune it for running good and good mileage and just ride it and be happy.
I respect and appreciate your feedback spike! I know you know your stuff and I’m just a youngin (27 this month) but have you ever seen a maxair up close? I feel like It’s probably one of the best flowing intakes out there for our bikes! It’s straight into the throttle body from all angles and utilizes the factory velocity stack to direct air into the throttle body. Extremely simplistic yet brilliant! As far as all the big name intakes out there for our bikes, the air flow has to make some sort of turn to make it into the throttle body (usually a 90* turn!) which isn’t going to flow as well as it could. They are going for crazy looks and max air shoots for best flow/Engine protection and simple design.

Oh and let’s not forget that you have the option to use whatever filter media you would like! You can buy sheets of foam from your favorite manufacturer and just cut to fit. It’s so simple to replace filters and you can choose how thick and how porous the foam is. Right now I am running UNI bf-6 bi layer material which cost me $23 for a sheet large enough to cut 2 filters. And will protect better than I will ever need it to.



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That's a nice dyno sheet and good results. As Spike already pointed out, these are numbers at the wheel, not the crank which is what manufacturers advertise. So you gotta remove 20-25% (drive-train losses) of the advertised numbers to get wheel numbers.
And welcome to the club, of course.
Got any pictures of her? We are suckers for pictures!
You can post them in an intro post in the New Member forum, if you'd like, that's the best place for them.
You bet your sweet pippie I do! I’ll have to do that, but for now here’s a few for you vtx junkies! The red R in the background is my old lady’s new 1300 for those who are wondering.

Also on a side note, if anyone knows anyone with ultimate seats that aren’t studded I would be happy to trade them! Drivers backrest is in the right side saddle bag as well!

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I see you're from the Cook Forest area- very nice up there. I'm 3 hrs. south, near the Johnstown 1889 Flood Memorial site.
Ahhh not that close, about 40 miles to cooks forest, but not terribly far! I’m from a one red light town called Clarendon, just outside of Warren pa
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Ahhh not that close, about 40 miles to cooks forest, but not terribly far! I’m from a one red light town called Clarendon, just outside of Warren pa
One year we vacationed in the finger lakes area, and began our trip with a stay the first night in Warren. I also once picked up a customer's car at the Chevy dealer in Corry. Closest I've been.
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I know almost nothing about fuel management systems like the PC three which my bike has. All I can say is when it was unplugged (which when I took off my cobras and put on the stock exhaust I understood was necessary), my bike was a dog. When I plugged it back in my mileage dropped from about 32 mpg to 27, but it was worth it. I have the same experience you did with the bike waking up throughout the rpm range especially the low rpm range. It’s a rocket again. I’m never going to unplug my PC three lol
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Now Corry is in my neck of the woods! I’m about a half hour straight shot down ol route 6 haha I go out to the Honda dealer out there from time to time. But maybe one of these days me and the old lady can get together with you and go for a cruise out your way. I’ve always wanted to adventure down your way
Yes I've seen the MaxFlo, in fact I was around when the company was first making it for the VTX. Then I got to see all the real dyno's from many different owners with just OK numbers
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And as for you kachow, I’m not sure if you have a laptop or an old usb 2.0 cable laying around (the usb cable that all old MP3 players ect used to use in the early 2000’s) but if you do hop on the power commander site and download the pciii usb software suite so you can tinker! It’s pretty fun to be honest.

I actually just figured out that if you set your idle around 750-800 and adjust the first three blocks on the right side column (under the 0 throttle column) that you can get a nice lopey true twin idle out of these bikes. Can’t even tell it’s a twin pin engine till your riding!

What I did was set the 750rpm column to -5 percent and the column above and below that to +5 percent. This causes the fueling to fluctuate at idle a bit, and it actually comes out sounding great, actually surprisingly great, and the fuel percentage will fluctuate between -3 to -1 or 0 percent as the rpm’s dip slightly up and down so I’m confident that it’s going to be safe and not load up the engine! Also rpm’s are still around 750-800 so no worries about oil pressure.

I’m probably about a decade late with this info as it seemed like hundreds were looking for (the Harley sound) back then haha but that isn’t why I did it anyways. I was simply just tinkering and having fun and stumbled upon it!
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Yes I've seen the MaxFlo, in fact I was around when the company was first making it for the VTX. Then I got to see all the real dyno's from many different owners with just OK numbers
Well that’s a bummer, I know I saw you in a thread back when maxflo was being developed. But one would think that keepingthe oem velocity stack and keeping the air flow direct would be beneficial. But I’ve been wrong a thousand times before and I’m sure I will be several thousand more! Haha I do like how simple it is to maintain though and I think it fits the style of the bike so I suppose I’ll hold onto the old gem.

Also I did some pondering and I was looking at the tune, and it appears to the untrained eye that he was only doing wide open pulls when dialing in fueling. As the most of the edits he did were diagonal across the board, from top left down to bottom right, and he richened up spots in the 0 throttle column to cure decel popping I would assume.

Does this sound right to you? I’ll have to fire up the laptop and get a picture of the table for you to have a look at if you’d be so kind! I just want to be sure I get the best/most thorough tune on the old girl as I can. If the current isn’t already.
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