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Is Mad_Bomber hopeless?

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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I trolled quite a few of these boards in regards to the titled issue. My take away is that since it is over 20,000mi, I should do a full rebuild. TBH with the amount of effort just to change the seal, I was already thinking it so I don't have to do it again anytime soon. So what I'm looking for is clarification on some things followed by recommendations for the parts. Driving force for this is that I just got it (although I know these are things that happen, my wife is just looking at the $/just getting it and already it has a sizeable issue) and intend to use it as my daily driver/recreation weather permitting. So, if it is a recommendation for mechanical soundness and/or safety reasons I can justify the cost. I don't have a strong knowledge base in this arena but do mechanically in a general sense.

Clarification:
Is the spring replacement a "necessary" replacement because of it's life span or just a general improvement thing?
If I change the fork spring but not the rear suspension spring is that a problem?
What weight is best to use? (10 and 15 was thrown around with no real reasoning for which or why, besides the stock calling for 10)
Is the dampening rod and cup not something that should go along with this?

Recommendations:
Vendor: preferably someplace I could get everything, instead of a bit here and there from several, if that exists.
Rebuild Kit
Oil/Dust Seal Kit
Oil

I appreciate all of the help.
-MB
P.S. If you have a suggestion for a poll response add that to your reply and i'll throw it in.
 

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lets see

13 year old bike..... 20,000 total miles
the seals are dry rotted...

the 1300 fork design is over 50 years old. a solid and dependable design ..

replace the seals.. and the oil and start ridding her.

my last goldwing.. the fork seals lasted for 90,000 miles
my VTX, the fork seals lasted 81,000 miles.. more back road riding and less freeway riding.

they are leaking.. do to lack of riding...
tubes get DRY, and dry out the rubber seals... and being both DRY.. the seal lips are sanded away.
keep the other parts as is... except maybe springs.. "spring SAG"

my retired professional opinion.
 

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remember to do the above video........

the 1300 has the conventional design
the video has the modern inverted fork design.. aka like a VTX1800.

loosen the Dust cover and push upwards..
as the seal is below the dust cover.. and below the clip holding it to the fork leg.
 

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Ok, I trolled quite a few of these boards in regards to the titled issue. My take away is that since it is over 20,000mi, I should do a full rebuild. TBH with the amount of effort just to change the seal, I was already thinking it so I don't have to do it again anytime soon. So what I'm looking for is clarification on some things followed by recommendations for the parts. Driving force for this is that I just got it (although I know these are things that happen, my wife is just looking at the $/just getting it and already it has a sizeable issue) and intend to use it as my daily driver/recreation weather permitting. So, if it is a recommendation for mechanical soundness and/or safety reasons I can justify the cost. I don't have a strong knowledge base in this arena but do mechanically in a general sense.

Clarification:
Is the spring replacement a "necessary" replacement because of it's life span or just a general improvement thing?
If I change the fork spring but not the rear suspension spring is that a problem?
What weight is best to use? (10 and 15 was thrown around with no real reasoning for which or why, besides the stock calling for 10)
Is the dampening rod and cup not something that should go along with this?

Recommendations:
Vendor: preferably someplace I could get everything, instead of a bit here and there from several, if that exists.
Rebuild Kit
Oil/Dust Seal Kit
Oil

I appreciate all of the help.
-MB
P.S. If you have a suggestion for a poll response add that to your reply and i'll throw it in.
If you are happy with the way the springs perform you can keep them . 20
Ok, I trolled quite a few of these boards in regards to the titled issue. My take away is that since it is over 20,000mi, I should do a full rebuild. TBH with the amount of effort just to change the seal, I was already thinking it so I don't have to do it again anytime soon. So what I'm looking for is clarification on some things followed by recommendations for the parts. Driving force for this is that I just got it (although I know these are things that happen, my wife is just looking at the $/just getting it and already it has a sizeable issue) and intend to use it as my daily driver/recreation weather permitting. So, if it is a recommendation for mechanical soundness and/or safety reasons I can justify the cost. I don't have a strong knowledge base in this arena but do mechanically in a general sense.

Clarification:
Is the spring replacement a "necessary" replacement because of it's life span or just a general improvement thing?
If I change the fork spring but not the rear suspension spring is that a problem?
What weight is best to use? (10 and 15 was thrown around with no real reasoning for which or why, besides the stock calling for 10)
Is the dampening rod and cup not something that should go along with this?

Recommendations:
Vendor: preferably someplace I could get everything, instead of a bit here and there from several, if that exists.
Rebuild Kit
Oil/Dust Seal Kit
Oil

I appreciate all of the help.
-MB
P.S. If you have a suggestion for a poll response add that to your reply and i'll throw it in.
Ok, I trolled quite a few of these boards in regards to the titled issue. My take away is that since it is over 20,000mi, I should do a full rebuild. TBH with the amount of effort just to change the seal, I was already thinking it so I don't have to do it again anytime soon. So what I'm looking for is clarification on some things followed by recommendations for the parts. Driving force for this is that I just got it (although I know these are things that happen, my wife is just looking at the $/just getting it and already it has a sizeable issue) and intend to use it as my daily driver/recreation weather permitting. So, if it is a recommendation for mechanical soundness and/or safety reasons I can justify the cost. I don't have a strong knowledge base in this arena but do mechanically in a general sense.

Clarification:
Is the spring replacement a "necessary" replacement because of it's life span or just a general improvement thing?
If I change the fork spring but not the rear suspension spring is that a problem?
What weight is best to use? (10 and 15 was thrown around with no real reasoning for which or why, besides the stock calling for 10)
Is the dampening rod and cup not something that should go along with this?

Recommendations:
Vendor: preferably someplace I could get everything, instead of a bit here and there from several, if that exists.
Rebuild Kit
Oil/Dust Seal Kit
Oil

I appreciate all of the help.
-MB
P.S. If you have a suggestion for a poll response add that to your reply and i'll throw it in.
I rebuilt my forks at 17k because they were way to soft and sometimes would bottom out . I put stiffer race tech springs in ,,,15w lucas fork oil synthetic .Firm but plush ride now . New bearing sleeves oem installed .My old brg sleeves were not hardley worn .Big improvement in handling especially in curves . you could probably just replace the seals and new oil if you are happy with the springs ..07 1300r . eo
 

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Discussion Starter #6
remember to do the above video........

the 1300 has the conventional design
the video has the modern inverted fork design.. aka like a VTX1800.

loosen the Dust cover and push upwards..
as the seal is below the dust cover.. and below the clip holding it to the fork leg.
So might that work for the conventional style? Off the top, I would think it would just push the possible debris into the fork. Would that not be a bad thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
One cheap thing to try before going to the work of replacing the seals that might keep the bride happy:

No go on the "Dream Police", Popped the dust cover off and it looks like the internal seal spring is rusting through haha. Definitely going to be a seal job at a minimum.
 

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So might that work for the conventional style? Off the top, I would think it would just push the possible debris into the fork. Would that not be a bad thing?
and where does the crap FALL for motor oil... bottom of the pan.

the 1300 lower fork leg is setup for crap storage.. its at the bottom.

battery .. at the bottom of the battery Plate pack.. is a small area below it for crap.
 

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Just going to through my two cents in here. It sounds like you are heading in the right diretion. It sounds like that bike sat longer that it was ridden, so I would suspect a full fork maintenance is in order.
Chuck is right, the bottom of the VTX1300 forks are crap collectors, so take the time and clean them toughly. If your looking for a different feel in the front end - replace the springs. In 09 I put a set of Progressive Suspension fork springs in my 04 1300S and never looked back.
 
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