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Ok, time for the wrap up of the event.

Other than a couple oil changes, this tech session was all about my bike, thanks a bunch for the help Taffer.

Great to see everyone that came: Sir Rock, T-Dog and buddy, Lee and June, Hunter and Huntress, Kevin aka Radioactive and daughter Jordan, and Steve aka WFO.

Despite Taffer forgetting he had a few of his metric wrenches at work, we made due and got the job done. Big thanks to Hunter for bringing the second bike stand so oil changes could occur simultaneously like a quick lube place!

So, we got my rear tire off with little trouble and I took it to Southeast Sales Honda at Good Hope and 76th. They had my new Avon Cobra 200 on in 15 minutes for $25. I HIGHLY recommend using these guys with that kind of price and service! Meanwhile, Taffer was installing my new 1300 Final drive so when I returned to the garage all we had to do was get the rear put back together. Initially it seemed like my wheel was really catching the brakes, Kevin and Lee were right, something wasn't right. After looking everything over I discovered my inside brake pad was not seated correctly in the caliper and once I fixed that, it spun freely like normal. Good eye boys!

After a nice lunch at B-52's on Appleton in Menomonee Falls, we went for a brisk ride through the Kettle Moraine to Holy Hill. Taffer and Lee know some great roads. I have been on many of them, but I hadn't been on Monches road before. Very nice.

Changes in performance? That's the big question everyone wants to know. Taffer is right in every case. The speedo is now dead on accurate. I am really doing 55 when it says I'm doing 55. The GPS was exactly the same as the speedo. Take-offs are much smoother now. I have a greater range with the first two gears and seriously do not need to shift 1-2 so fast. Regular cruising is a breeze. The high gear, 5th, is now more relaxed. It feels like when you are in 5th gear and only doing like 45. Am I going too slow? Do I need to shift? No. I am doing 55-60. I easliy get up to 80 with no effort. The big test will be when Jen is on back going up hills. The second person's weight might make it interesting, but these engines are pretty torquey - kind of like a diesel motor in the motorcycle world...Otherwise, it seems like all works better.

Bottom line: The VTX1800 should have come from the factory with this Final Drive. It fixes some serious details that the engineers seemed to sacrifice on. My first fun drive and the bike feels more energetic and eager to play. Its just some gears, how could that be? So far, I love it.

Thanks for all the help and great to see everyone that popped in even though they didn't need any work.
 

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Travis.....not sure if you tackled those bushings or not, but here is the write up on replacing them.

There's not much to this, but a couple things will make your job easier. If
you can put the bike on a lift, it will take the load off the tire and relax
the shock. You can pull the top shock mount without removing the bottom.
When you install the new bushing, it is easier if you lube it. You can use
any lube you like, but I prefer silicone spray. Put the bushing on the shock
mount, then slip the shock over the bushing. Put your seat back on, and
you're ready to ride!

t-dog
 

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Tim I guess we ....just...... missed you guys. Hope we can get together before MMR and ride alittle.

Lee
 

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1300 final install

Taffer, Just wanted to say thanks for hosting! :bowdown:
Very happy we were able to accomplish some tech work.
Could you re-fresh my memory and post the pros and cons of a car tire on a 1800 VTX besides looking cool! Thanks again "Sir Rock"
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Thanks to you for saving the tech session with your wrenches!


Benefits of car tire:
-lasts longer
-better traction on straights and in curves (larger contact patch even when leaning)
-smoother ride (softens the bumps in the road thanks to softer rubber, larger tire)
-cheaper price (mine was $180, which is not that cheap, but for 16" rim you can get a nice tire for $100)
-handles water/sand/gravel/etc better than mc tire
-can be patched/plugged and still used
-IMO: low speed handling/leaning/tight turns are easier to control now, not sure all agree on this one

Disadvantages of CT:
-cycle wants to track straight, so when riding hands-free it's hard to steer it with your knees
-on slanted surface the bike is harder to hold up straight when stopped
due to wider tire contact, it's more likely (statistically) to pick up a -nail/screw and get a flat
-darkside haters will talk smack on forums telling you how stupid you are for putting a car tire on your bike
-bike wants to straighten out naturally, have to apply more pressure to bars to turn
-amazing traction makes it really hard to do a burn out on dry surface
 

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Ok Tim,
we will give that a try next time I have the bike up on the stand. Hunter and I are going to be changing out hydraulic fluid one of these days if it ever stops raining or snowing.

I don't quite see how I could generate enough pressure to force the bushing inside the shock that way but I'll give it a whirl. Steve has a fully equipped shop either way.

For those of you wondering, my Progressive Springs Shocks squeak like crazy. Despite every type of grease tried out, it was determined that the shocks bushings were the cause and that they had an older type of bushing that Progressive has discontinued and they sent me a better type. My bushings were shot from 20,000 miles of 2 up riding anyways, like that on almost every VTX I've seen. Thats the problem with the old school style of shocks our bikes have. At least the new Sabres have the modern rear suspensions that eliminate all that clutter. So, hopefully install new bushings and problem solved. As loud as my bike is, I hate squeaks and rattles.
 

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Heavy....I bought a set of Progressives off the for sale board last year. Finally got around to installing them this spring. The new bushings are A LOT more substantial than the old ones. Which is nice, but install is a royal PITA.

I was in the process of installing the springs when I found the old bushings were shot. I thought I would be able to muscle the new bushings in, but that was a tough go (even with all kinds of oil/lube on them). My neighbor and I tried the C-clamp and socket method to try to get them pressed in....no go. I tried soaking them in brake fluid to try to soften them up, and after 3 or so days of soaking they had only softened marginally.

I ended up taking them to Cap City Harley (I know the service manager, and we go there a lot for service on our work motors). He was able to get one of his guys to press them in.

Only had a handful of nicks to the bushings and the tech ended up with a cut to his hand.

Taking the shocks to a shop was my last resort. I didn't want to pony up the $$ to pay the shipping (both ways), labor, and parts so Progressive could press them in.

Just wanted to give you a friendly heads up for when you tackle getting the bushings in! There are some write-ups in the 1300 board I believe too (do a search for Progressive bushings).
 

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Oh great!

Thats good to know. Hal's Harley is right down the street from Steve's so we will give it a try before breaking down and paying their techs.
 

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report on Final drive swaps

ok So this thread has been turned into a chat line, but i figure I can still post on it. After swapping final drives from my friends 1300 to my 1800 and my 1800 final drive to her 1300. I found my speedometer was off only about 3 to 5 mph. The difference increased as my speed increased. But its close enough for me. Her's on the other hand was over 10 mph to 20 mph. So I bought a SpeedoDRD. And using my GPS I did the calculations per instructions and programmed it. Got it right on the first try! which was to set it at -17.5%. I'm happy with the results. Costs $70 (free shipping) From 12oclocklabs. I may get another for my bike, just to have accurate gas mileage readings, since my odometer will read more miles then I actually put on. Hopefully this will help someone who might be looking for this info. And I guess I should say I am happy with the swap since I feel like my lower speeds are smoother, I'm used to having to shift sooner or my throttle feels touchy and it wants to launch. Over all a smoother ride for me. Gas mileage hasn't really been tested, but it doesn't matter since that will be different from person to person according to their riding styles.
 

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for real

If the people with an 1800cc m/c need to switch there finale drive to 1300cc final drive to get better mpg's they should have bought a 1300cc m/c. If u buy a big dog feed the big dog. my .02 and can't spare any more..
are you for real? what does it matter to you, what other guys, are doing with their motorcycle? I don,t get you, maybe you just like to be negitive NOPE NOPE NOPE UNUH! GOOFY TO SAY THE LEAST!
 

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And now for some more data on the difference from a standard 1800 FD equipped bike:

Just took a nice ride with Sir Rock last weekend. We both topped off at his house in Milwaukee and reset odometers. We went all the way to Milton and Rockdale (Heather's Bar and Grill is very nice btw), and then came back through the Kettle Moraine scenic roads and back to Waukesha. As we were driving in New Berlin, Jason said his fuel light had just come on. He was showing the usual 134 miles when that happens. My bike only had 120 miles on it, for the SAME exact ride. I now have 145 miles on my ODO and just now the low fuel light came on. We rode exactly the same way, I probably rode more aggressively than him if anything and he had to bust it to keep up, like all of you do when ya'll ride with Heavy!! Anyways.....bottom line is now my speedo reads true, I get better mileage, and put on less miles on the bike than stock, and I seem to pull away pretty easily under acceleration from other 1800's with a passenger. Or did that always happen??

All in all, its a pretty good mod to do.

There is only ONE downside I have experienced. At a typical 55 miles an hour, with a passenger, I do get more vibrations as the motor works hard to keep pace. This doesn't happen if its just me, or I get over 60. Its the slower roads stuck behind grey hairs that the bike doesn't like now. On highways, its truly ideal though. So, if we go slow behind yet another stupid Buick driver, I put it into 4th. (no offense to any Buick drivers here, but the typical one is 70 and up and simply can't exceed the speed limit for any reason)

End of story. I hope you all enjoyed!
 

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Below 55 mph my bike begins to lug and I have to gear down to 4th gear when passing other vehicles.
Absolute Correct, you can feel the pistons pounding in 5th below 55 grabbing too much throttle. That is lugging.
The rods are trying to pound through the thin oil film on the crank.

A vacuum gauge would prove the point showing low to zero manifold pressure
at that throttle opening with crankshaft held back from freely accelerating.

No different on piston aircraft, as manifold pressure is never abused with constant speed prop.
Air density at the prop is almost a solid, so too much pitch would lug the engine, just like too high a gear at full throttle.

Gentle throttle in 5th, 60 & below it will go fine.
To pass like you mean business, 60 & below, 4th is correct.
You instantly know it likes it.

Your truck under load does it, like it or not downshifts or unlocks torque convertor to pass.
 

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1300 with 1800 final drive

For those with 1300. When putting a 1800 final drive in, you will find your speedometer off. We found out that it causes the bike to run "out of tune" , I'm guessing because the computer uses the speed sensor pulses to adjust for timing or fuel mixture or whatever else it adjust for speed. After installing and adjusting a speedoDRD, we found the bike ran great. The speedo was off by 17%. My 1800 is only off by 3 to 5 mph and I haven't seen any running problems. And getting an accurate gas mileage would take extra calculations, I may buy one just to have an accurate speedo.
 
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