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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1300 Mods & Fixes; Polish Sidestand, Cruise Control, Grasshopper & 1800 seat on 1300

Polished Kickstand by Boz

Kickstand Polishing Technique

Disclaimer: These instructions could cause unintentional scratches to your bike, so make sure that you have taped off the surrounding areas. Be careful with the chrome plated plastic parts near the kickstand. The author accepts no responsibility for any damage to your bike that may occur during this procedure.

This is a great project to do at night or in the cold of winter when you cannot get out of the garage. I get a little detailed here, but I didn’t want to miss anything. Also, the finer grits are about $3 a pack, but you may find other uses for them.

Needed: Masking Tape, scissors, dust mask, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish (or equivalent), clear enamel (clear coat) spray paint, old cotton t-shirt or terry cloth and sandpaper – see below.

One sheet of each of the following grits:
60, 100, 150, 220, 320, 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000. (the first 4 grades (grit) from any hardware store, the last 5 are wet/dry paper from an auto parts store or some Walmarts. (3M or equivalent).

Optional: Motorcycle lift, disposable gloves, paste wax, bucket of water with a drop of car wash soap, Dremel or Roto tool.

Cut out two or three 3” x 4” pieces from all your sandpaper sheets. Start with the lowest grades first. This will also sharpen your scissors.

Good news- no tools are required, just your strong fingers.

Not so good news – this takes some rubbing and some patience – wear gloves if you want. The more you rub, the better the results. I did this without removing the kickstand. You may get better results if you remove it, but I would not recommend it for novices, like myself. The springs (there are two) look a little tricky.

Step One – If you have a lift, raise the bike about 4 inches and either extend the outriggers or insert blocks beneath the tires to reduce rocking. If you have no lift, put a 2 x 2 under the kickstand so that you can sand around it. (2 minutes)

Step Two – To avoid scratches, tape off the steel spring, the “hinge”, especially the wire connection and plug. There is no need to sand too close to the top of the stand because it will mostly go unnoticed. (3 minutes)

Step Three – A full sheet of sandpaper folded into eighths will make it difficult to get the paper to conform to the curves. As stated above, cut your paper down to 3” x 4” pieces.

Optional – If you have an orbital sander, try this: insert a sponge between the paper and the sander, but you’ll need to use larger pieces of sandpaper. This will help with the curves. Do NOT use the sander if you plan to wet the wet/dry paper.

Step Four - Put on your dust mask. Start with 60 grit sandpaper and sand the stand (sorry) until you eliminate pits and pockmarks. This is the hardest step, but the most critical. Alternate sanding “with the grain” if there was one, then buffing with the paper like shining shoes. Always finish sanding “with the grain”. There is no need to sand the underside. Once it looks like smooth brushed aluminum, move on to the next higher grade.

Optional – With a Dremel tool you can start the de-burring process with the drum sander attachment. Be careful with the flat part as it has an awkward shape.

Step Five – Go through each grade and sand until the paper or your fingers get weak, whichever comes first. Don’t rush this process, because if you have scratches, you have to go back to a lower grade and move on to higher grades. The stand will get brighter and brighter. This is a “diminishing abrasive” technique and works best if you graduate to the next higher grade, always in order of lower to higher. Sand out all the scratches from the previous grit. Spend about 5 – 10 minutes for each grade.

Optional: For grades 320 and higher, you can dip the paper in water, which will probably make it easier and cause fewer scratches.

Once you’ve finished with the 2000 paper (your hand is now silver), rub some Mothers Aluminum Polish on the stand until the rag gets black (about 20 seconds). Repeat 3 more times. At this point, it will look like chrome.

EDIT 4-13-04: Since the kickstand is made of coated steel, you'll need to seal it with clear spray paint. Cover EVERYTHING on the bike except the kickstand. Clean it off with a degreaser or solvent to strip off the polish residue and apply two light coats. NOTE: If you see scratches in the surface, you can eliminate them by going back a few steps and repeating the same process of graduating up to higher grades of paper. It took me three tries (trial and error) to get it like I wanted it. Hopefully, these instructions will save you some time.

Author: Boz

· Super Moderator
64,510 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Mounting the Hoppe "Quadzilla" 1800 Fairing on 1300

Mounting the Hoppe "Quadzilla" 1800VTX Fairing on 1300

Hi all, Glenn from Hoppe here. I've gotten many emails regarding fitting the fairings on a 1300, and have had to tell everyone " I know of one on a 1300 Retro in FL, but I didn't do the install and can't advise on what was involved" and "I'll get some measurements as soon as I can and get back to you.". Well I finally got done and here's the new boilerplate answer folks will get when they email:

The 1800 "Quadzilla" fairing will fit on a 1300 Retro or Standard, but requires some extra steps/modifications.

The R model:
The R model 1300 fork tubes between the triples trees are covered with sheet metal shrouds that have to be removed for a fairing install. This entails removing the top tree to slide the shrouds off the tubes, which should be done according to the Honda Shop Manual.
After the removal of the shrouds, the 1800 fairing can be installed on the
bare fork tubes with the use of PVC pipe spacer/filler tubes, which we will
provide. The spacers are needed because the inverted forks on the 1800
(which the fairing is a custom fit to) are a larger diameter than the 1300
tubes. Without the spacers to increase the fork diameter, the mounting
clamps would stress and crush the fiberglass of the fairing.

The C model:
The C model fork tubes need only the spacer/fillers to physically mate up
the fairing, but there is an interference problem with the turn signals.
They have to be removed from the fork tubes to allow the fairing to be
mounted. If relocated below the lower tree they may interfere with the front suspension travel, so I cannot recommend that. The Retro turn signal bar could be purchased form your dealer and that would work with the fairing.
Custom turn signals or mounts would be an option, but that would be up to
the individual bike owner.

Author; Glen from Hoppe

· Super Moderator
64,510 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1800C seat on a 1300C - by LikeaBat

1800C seat on a 1300C - by LikeaBat

This is my original post on putting the 1800C seat on a 1300C that I made a couple of years ago. When I first did it, I posted that the 1800C bracket wouldn't fit on the 1300 - THIS APPEARS TO BE INCORRECT. My bracket must have been bent or something since most people say that their 1800C bracket fits fine. This greatly simplifies the process. I've edited this post to reflect this, but I am unable to edit the VTXOA Garage post since I am not the one that put it there (someone else copied and pasted my original post there).

This should give you an idea of the trimming that is required on the seat pan to make the seat fit:

Pic number 1...

O.K. Step 1: First separate the front seat from the passenger pillion seat.

Step 2: Swipe some lipstick from your wife.
Step 3: Smear the lipstick on the 2 frame rails where the seat goes...this will help you see where you need to trim the seat pan on the bottom of the seat.
Step 4: Put the front tab of the seat in place and push the seat down - it will strike the frame before you can put it all the way down in place. Now lift the seat and flip it over and look for lipstick marks so you can see where you need to trim the seat pan.
Step 5: Start trimming. You can see in photo number 1 where I had to trim the front part of the seat pan on both sides (A). At the rear of the seat are two large tabs (B) I trimmed them ALMOST all the way down. Once you have trimmed (A) and (B) down...the seat should sit in place.

Step 6: EDIT: My original post mentioned that the 1800C bracket won't work - mine must have been the exception...most say that it fits with only perhaps a bit of "persuasion".

Step 7: Put it all together! First put the front tab of the drivers seat in place. Now place the front "tab" from the passenger pillion (it is actually a metal bracket on the passenger pinion) under the rear of the drivers seat rear bracket and attach the two allen bolts that secure the drivers seat bracket to the bike. The rear mounting bolt tab on the Passenger pinion lines right up and mounts with the stock nut. I currently don't have the front of the passenger pillion secured other than its front bracket being "pinned" under the drivers seat mounting bracket. It may bolt up to your bracket, however.

Pic Number 4...

In pic number 4 you can see how the seat looks when in place. The front of the seat covers the tank tab very nicely. For an absolute PERFECT fit up around the tank, you might need to pull the leather back and do just a slight bit of trimming on the front edge of the seat pan.

Once you get to this point, you will see the other small problem that this seat poses. From the side of a 1300C with the stock seat you can see the top frame rails behind the tank. The 1800C seat "drops" down and covers them up nicely. Problem drops down a bit too far and 'pushes' the front portion of the side covers down to the point where they don't line up with the front mounting tabs. (The rear mounting tabs still work.)

I wound up pulling the leather off of the side of the seat and trimming the side of the seat pan to fit around the side covers...


That's it! Sounds very involved when I describe it, but I did it all in about 2 hours. I think the 1800C seat looks much better than the stock 1300C seat and is much more comfortable. I've e-mailed these pics and tips to several people in the past, so I know some other people have done it - perhaps they have some other tips they can throw in. If you do this come up with a better mounting method or any other tips - please feel free to post them.

The 1800 seat in it's stock form sits you up a bit higher and maybe even slightly forward. For maximum comfort, pull the leather off and shave the foam down and backward "bucket seat" style (or send it to BadX and have him do it for you).

Note for the Lawyers: This is to show how I placed my seat on my bike. I'm very happy with how secure the seat is - but if you do this, it is up to you to make sure the seat is secure. I won't be held liable for your installation. In fact, for liability purposes, I will make the following statements: This seat is for display purposes only and is not for riding...If you do this installation and ride the bike, the seat WILL fall off while riding down the road and you WILL crash! Objects in mirror may be closer than they appear. Do not ride with toes in the spokes. Individual results may vary. Do not swim for at least 1 hour after installing seat.

Author; LikeaBat

· Super Moderator
64,510 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
LikeaBat Studded Seat

LikeaBat Studded Seat

O.K. fellow cheapskates - here is how you stud your seat for $4.

I had done this on my VLX600 and dubbed it the "$4 studded stock seat mod". I've been debating doing it on my VTX since I wasn't sure I'd like a studded seat on a "C" model - but I've been thinking about getting a new seat for my bike in the future anyway - so I thought I'd go ahead and give it a shot on my 1800C seat that I have on my 1300C just for the heck of it.

The "studs" I used are actually Upholstery tacks that I bought for $2. I glued them in with E6000 industrial adhesive that is really good at bonding to both metal and leather. (another $2 at Wal-Mart).

I just scrubbed the side of the seat down with some detergent to make sure any leather conditioner was off and the seat wasn't greasy. I then put masking tape along the edge of the seat where I wanted the studs to be. Then I did a lot of measuring and marking on the masking tape to lay out where I wanted the studs to be. Then I went around the edge of the seat and "stabbed" the studs through the masking tape on the marks I made. Now remove all of the studs and peel back the masking tape a little bit at a time - you can still see the hole in the leather so you know where each stud goes. Smear some adhesive on the stud (on the "nail" part as well at the "head"). It really helps to use needle nose pliers to hold the stud with the "nail" part while putting glue on it (I used a toothpick to apply the glue). Then, still holding the stud with the pliers", stab it into the hole. It is really easy to remove any excess glue that might ooze out. Let the E6000 dry for about 5 minutes and you can easily wipe off any excess using a toothpick (or your finger) - the glue is "rubbery" at this point and just balls up and comes right off. Once you have all of the studs on the seat, just let things dry for 24 hours before messing with it.

I had "studs" like this on my VLX for about a year before I sold it and they were always rock solid. Several people on the VLX boards did this as well and the only complaint I heard was one guy that used "brass" tacks instead of stainless/nickel/chrome ones and they started to rust after a while - so don't use brass. One other tip - I placed the first two studs on either side of the passenger "hold-on" strap, then I used that as my basis for the spacing (I didn't want one of the studs to wind up on top of - or underneath - the strap). Just make sure to measure and mark the spots for studs on masking tape first in case you have to adjust the spacing slightly to make things line up like you want.

Author; LikeaBat

· Super Moderator
64,510 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Speedometer housing rattle

Speedometer housing rattle

1. Remove the bottom 3 screws holding on the housing.
2. Remove the gas cap.
3. Remove the housing and let it dangle near the radiator.
4. Put the gascap back on (so nothing falls in)
5. take some #7 (3) o-rings and dab some RTV silicone on one side (Or just spit on 'em)
6. Center them over the screwholes on the 3 metal tank tabs.
7. Reinstall housing.

You will never rattle again - takes about 5 minutes.

Trick with the o-rings is that you want the shoulder of the bolt to be able to pass through....with the compression happenning between the housing and the tabs - not between the screw and the o-ring. #7's are just the right size. Hope that makes sense.

Last update: 2006-08-20 09:09
Author: Ceetro

· Super Moderator
64,510 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Disciple X Levers

Disciple X Levers

This may be more for the C.R.A.P. crowd but I thought you guys/gals may be interested in doing something like this. I started with stock levers (brake & clutch).

First, I marked where my fingers are on the levers.

Then I used a side gringer and cut out the finger grips and shavd of the "ball" end to a point.

I then used a section of conduit wrapped with 100grit to finish cutting out the fingers and smoothing out the grooves cut by the grinder.

Then I finished up polishing: 100, 320, 800, 2000, cutting compound, and finally a hand polishing cream.

The metal for these levers is very soft and easy to work with so it only took a few hours.

Last update: 2007-11-17 08:14
Author: Ceetro

· Super Moderator
64,510 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
1800C Solo Seat on 1300C Bike by finder216

These are instructions on the 1800 to 1300 seat conversions as posted on the crap site by finder216.

1800C Solo Seat on 1300C Bike
(Seat Pin Modification info included)

As you can see from the photos, there is quit a different in looks and size when it comes to switching out the stock VTX1300C Stock Seat with the 1800C Solo Seat. The 1800 seat is a lot wider and flatter than the stock seat and is much more comfortable, even without the other mods you can do to the seat it's self. Another good thing is, there are NO modifications needed on the bike, just the seat. For me, it was the look that I was after, but the ride was a welcomed improvement. Also, this is a very affordable mod as I bought the seat on eBay, for about $45 (with shipping!), complete with the rear seat. It took a total of about 45-minutes to complete too, to there was plenty of time left in the day for a "test ride".

Before I got started, I reviewed the write-up by "likeabat":
If it wasn't for his write-up, I may have never attempted this. He tells you just about everything you need to know, but I discovered a few things that were a little different and seemed to work a little better for me. So here we go...

As you can see, the front part of the 1800C Seat detaches from the rear with 2-nuts (near my foot on the lower picture). On the bottom of the seat, there are 4-tabs; 2 on the front, 2 on the rear. The rear ones are slightly larger than the front. The cover, which is vinyl just like the stock seat, is attached with staples around the under side. The metal mounting bracket to the rear of the under side (right side of the lower photo) does not need any modification to work, however I did the "Seat Pin Mod", just to make things easier now and in the future.

First, I took my Stock Seat off and put the 1800C Seat on. The front mounting tongue, for lack of a better term, would slip into the tank slot, but the rear of the seat stuck up in the air about 4" off the fender. I could actually push it down enough that I could install the rear mounting bolts, but there was an un-natural press on the front of the seat and you could just feel the stress on the seat-pan.

When I looked under the rear of the seat, I could see the front pan tabs resting on the bike frame; they were what was keeping the seat up in the back. the rear tabs were a couple of inches from even touching the frame. Solution...use my Dremmel and cut the front tabs off.

I didn't cut them flush the first time out, but after re-installing the seat a couple of times I found out that they really needed to be completely removed...on both sides.

After removing these front tabs, the seat sat in place and looked about right, but the sides of the seat was lying on the side covers. As most of you know, anytime you have something rubbing on a painted area for any length of time, it will "leave a mark", or worse. From reading likeabat's information, a lot of other stuff I searched out on the net, and what I could see with the seat installed, there was also a lot of stress on the side covers which could cause them to pop off...they ain't cheap or easy to find, not to mention the paint you'll have to have "installed".
The solution to this problem is to trim the sides of the seat pan. I was really dreading this part. I've never done any upholstery work and don't own anything other than a hand powered staple gun, but believe me, this didn't turn out to be any major issue. I was also scared that I would cut to much off and then the seat would be ruined. I ended up putting the seat on and taking it off 5 or 6 times, while I was working on it. The area I'm pointing out below is where you will need to do the trimming on both sides.

You need to remove the staples from the area you'll be working in. I removed them from about the back of where my thumb is, to the very front (about 3" above of my finger, at the top of the picture). Be careful when you remove these, as not to damage the cover; I just a smaller screw driver and just took my time.

The front of the seat (the lupper photo, above) is where you will remove the most..about 1" or so. You'll taper your cut to the rear (the lower photo, above). Again, I used a Dremmel with a cutting disk to trim the seat-pan and checked the fit on my bike several times in the process. Once I got the pan trimmed to my liking, I pulled the cover back over the pan and stapled it (with my hand stapler). I've heard that it is a little easier with an air-stapler, if you have one handy. Using the hand stapler, I pushed the stapler firmly against the vinyl before I "pulled the trigger". As a note, everyone has different tastes and as I said earlier, I didn't want the vinyl resting on my side covers, so I trimmed my pan a little more than some may want to (see my finished picture below).

Some have posted information that they had to do a little trimming on the very front of the pan, where it contacts the sides of the tank, but I didn't. If you do, it shouldn't be a problem.

Something else I discovered when I removed my seat a week after doing this mod, I found a small "spot" on my rear fender. I figured out that it happened by a bracket-bolt on the underside, rear of the seat. I took care of this by using the Dremmel to trim the bolt a little. I left the nut on and trimmed down to it, so it was flush with the nut (see the photo below). I then touched it up a little with some spare enamel, to prevent any rust issues...OK, maybe I'm a little anal.

This is what my finished 1800C Solo Seat product looked like:

At this point, if you don't want to do the Seat Pin Mod, your done! Install the seat and you are good to go. I had actually already done the Seat Pin Mod and since I'd modified the rails already, I had to modify my new solo seat (either that or replace my rails - NOT!). If you do what to do the Seat Pin Mod, click the link below:

I don't need to re-invent the wheel, so if you just check out the link above, it will cover everything you need to know about this mod. I bought by pins at Lowes. They were about $2.50, if I remember right, so this is a really cheap mod. I went ahead and bought a new drill bit for the job, just to make things easier. When you drill the rails, just make sure when your done that the pins will go in easily enough. Do the same for the seat bracket too and be careful. I put a heavy tape on my rails and fender, plus used a towel and vacuum to catch the shavings...another set of hands never hurts.

Below is a pic of what the finished Seat Pin Mod looks like.

Good Luck -
Author; Finder216

· Registered
266 Posts
Grasshopper Mod

The Grasshopper backrest just pushes you too far forward.
So I decided to mod it!!!

Step by step...very easy to do!

Pic 1
the starting product

Pic 2
using a flathead screw driver, remove the staples that hold the leather down

Pic 3
remove the other side staples as well

Pic 4
gently remove the foam from the board, it is lightly glued down but can tear easily

Pic 5
using a phillipshead, remove the bolts (they are bolted, not screwed. so you should have no need to oversize screws to replace)

Pic 6
place the board on the other side of the bracket and rebolt

Pic 7
place the foam back on the board, I did not re-glue (didnt see the need to)

Pic 8
replace foam and board back into the leather (use teh plastic sheet on top. it makes it easy to push it in as it is a tight fit). make sure the tab on the leather is toward the front of the bracket.

Pic 9
re-staple in the same order you removed the staples (use long staples. they have to go through like 4 pieces of leather before hitting the board)

Pic 10
finished product


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