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If you work on your airbox or even in that area...please be sure that you have not pinched the crankcase breather tube. This will cause you to build up pressure un the crankcase and your shift seal will blow. This will spill oil in line with your rear wheel...potentially causing you to loose traction and crash. The crankcase breather is the smaller of the two hoses connected to the back of the stock airbox. It can be easily seen from the left side of the bike, between the jugs. Check to see that it runs smoothly to the back of the airbox. Alternately, you may remove the dipstick and blow into the breather tube with a hose or straw. Feel for a rush of air at the dipstick and you'll know the tube is not pinched. The breather tube is attached to nipple "A" in the stock airbox.
Here is a fix posted by Thin Man. You still want to be sure the hose is not kinked behind the stint: My bike had been leaving a couple of drops of oil on the garage floor after trips out of town. You got me thinking with that total oil loss at highway speed. Checked it out today and mine was also kinked. The culprit was a hose clamp. It's my favorite type of clamp, but this time the excess caused a problem. The excess was hooking into the hose when the air cleaner housing was pushed back into place. This put a fold in the hose. I bent the excess clamp end out of the way and pushed a 2 inch long piece of 5/16th diameter brass tubing up the kinked hose to keep it open.
Last update: 2006-03-20 13:28Author: Ceetro

While the above is aimed mostly at 1300 Owners, this CAN happen on either the 1300 or 1800. The 1800 has a different crankcase vent hose run and is not in as much risk of being pinched off like the 1300
 

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Spike. Saw your post on the oil danger. Can't find my pics of the stent approach. I'll look in the morning. Think they are on an old disk.

What I did though was get a length of that brass tubing sold in hobby shops. Brand name was K&B I believe. Pretty sure it was 5/16" dia. Get the 1 ft length and cut off about two inches. Remove any sharp edging and push the two inch section into the breather tube. Use the longer piece to push it into the kink area. This of course is done with the air filter housing off to make sure you get it in the best spot.

Had the pics posted on a link to BIGBIKES.com. Don't know what happened there. If I find them, I'll try Photobucket.

Thin Man
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Spike. Saw your post on the oil danger. Can't find my pics of the stent approach. I'll look in the morning. Think they are on an old disk.

What I did though was get a length of that brass tubing sold in hobby shops. Brand name was K&B I believe. Pretty sure it was 5/16" dia. Get the 1 ft length and cut off about two inches. Remove any sharp edging and push the two inch section into the breather tube. Use the longer piece to push it into the kink area. This of course is done with the air filter housing off to make sure you get it in the best spot.

Had the pics posted on a link to BIGBIKES.com. Don't know what happened there. If I find them, I'll try Photobucket.

Thin Man
That would be great if you can find them. If you do, can you forward them to my e-mail so I can upload them to my VTXOA account and then I won't have to bug you for them again. Thanks :thumbup:

[email protected]
 

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Yep. Six years ago when the dealer installed my new pipes and rejetted the carb the breather got pinched in reassembly. I rode home 17 miles unaware of this. When I got home oil was pouring into the driveway with the engine running. Looking back on it I was very very fortunate to have made it home without a disaster. :shock:

Had the bike towed back to the dealer, who was very embarrassed and apologetic. They resolved the issue, red faced, and then washed the bike and scrubbed the oil from the rear tire and wheel. It was a mess.

Good post Spike and thanks!
 

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The same thing happened on my 1985 VT1100C once, I was out of town without tools, The Steeler charged me $110 to poke the seal back in and Un-kink the vent hose and refill the oil. Oh yea, and to wipe the tire off.
If I had a do over with the same situation I would just buy the tools needed.
I make sure to carry a basic tool kit+ when I go out of town now.
 

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I am assumimg this is the hose that runs from the back of the airbox to the top of the front jug? After doing the PAIR valve removal, it is the only air hose connected in the back if the airbox ... correct?

:dontknow:
 

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I am assumimg this is the hose that runs from the back of the airbox to the top of the front jug? After doing the PAIR valve removal, it is the only air hose connected in the back if the airbox ... correct?

:dontknow:

Yes. Only the breather hose connects to the backside of the airbox.
 

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Yeah, had that happen (twice!)(don't ask, please). Quite an interesting ride the first time. Side-ways like the old dirt days. Second time I was aware of it before the rear wheel got oil soaked. Thanks!!
Socks......80k and counting!!
 

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Just when you think your head is full of good info, you learn something else. I'll be checking mine since I am in the middle of re=jetting mine.....Thanks
 

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Would a replacement piece of 5/16" fuel line be more solid and less likely to kink than inserting the piece of copper tubing into the existing tube? Getting ready to do the PAIR removal and want to fix this for sure...........Thanks! :yikes:
 

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Would a replacement piece of 5/16" fuel line be more solid and less likely to kink than inserting the piece of copper tubing into the existing tube? Getting ready to do the PAIR removal and want to fix this for sure...........Thanks! :yikes:
Don't readily see any advantage unless you have the 5/16 fuel line in hand. That would save you a trip to a hobby/hardware store.

That tubing I used was actually thin walled brass and rather stiff. It was any easy placement. Just cut off about a two inch piece, round off any sharp edge, and use the remaining longer piece to push it in the tube to the desired position. Then pull out the pusher part. Piece a' cake.

I'm sure your idea would work equally as well. Just make sure there are no sharp edges going in. Any sharp edge could tear the hose and not be the greatest.
 

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HA.....I have neither the copper tubing nor the fuel line hose, so I will pickup the first I am closer to. Just seemed to me by looking at your pics that the existing hose appeared to be a pretty weak type of tubing....seeing where it had kinked looked like it was almost like a dense foam! At any rate, I will make sure that I do not put any kinks into whatever gets used and I greatly appreciate your help & guidance. :bowdown:
 

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I have replaced my stock air box with a KURY hypercharger.Could this still be a problem with this set up,,and would the fix still be the same?
 

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I have replaced my stock air box with a KURY hypercharger.Could this still be a problem with this set up,,and would the fix still be the same?
Yes it can still kink the crankcase vent hose as that shouldn't have moved with the Kury install. The vent hose should be attached to the back of the Hypercharger and the fix would be the same
 

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Yes it can still kink the crankcase vent hose as that shouldn't have moved with the Kury install. The vent hose should be attached to the back of the Hypercharger and the fix would be the same
Thanks Spike,,I'll have to give it a look.Haven't noticed any oil on my floor though.Can never be too safe.
 
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