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I have an 04 and for the past few years I have been replacing most (not all) of the original rubber hoses throughout my bike. Nothing went wrong just rubber has only so much life expectancy over the years. Just a preventive maintenance thing to think about.

· Registered
370 Posts
I bought my VTX brand new in 04, and I preform all my own maintenance on my bike. I wrote a complete maintenance paper for others who own VTX1300's and I would like to offer it to you and anyone else who would be interested.
Now bear in mind, except for some creature comforts and chrome, I kept my bike completely stock and use (for the most part) all Honda parts & pieces, this has served me well for all these years. I live in N.E.Ohio, throughout the years I have visited most every state East of the Mississippi, except for a few states in the extreme north east of America. So needless to say I have logged some miles on this bike.
You may want to purchase after-market parts & supplies, that's fine, but this is what I use.
some of this will depend on your machinal abilities, but I would recommend giving it a try. Buy a Honda Service Manual for your year VTX - a must have.
I will post this Document in hopes that this will help you all in maintaining your VTX1300 for many, many years.

VTX1300 Winter Bike Prep & Storage
Where to buy parts: or Spend less. Smile more.
  • Put the bike on a lift or stand, this makes working on the bike far easier than just on its kick stand. I have used a “Craftsman Motorcycle Lift Jack” since 2004, still works great.
  • Change motor oil & Filter – Pro Honda GN4 SAE 10w-30SJ, 15410-MFJ-D01. Recommend changing the aluminum drain plug washer Honda #94109-12000, replace dip stick rubber washer Honda #91307-425-003.
  • Recommend adding – Archoil AR9100 at every oil change.
  • Change final drive oil – Pro Honda shaft drive oil Hypoid gear oil SAE 80w90. Recommend changing the aluminum drain plug washer Honda #94109-14000, replace rubber gasket for oil fill cap Honda #94109-001-020. Recommend adding – Archoil AR9100 at every oil change.
  • Remove gas tank and air filter housing, then, replace or at least clean the carburetor screen/filter – Honda #16176-ME3-A80. The screen is located in the back of your carb where main fuel line comes into the carb. It is a minor pain to get to - It is a small screen/filter and if left un-cleaned, is one of the main culprits for your bike not running properly.
NOTE→ Because the coolant lines run in/out of the carburetor, make sure to “burp” the coolant system afterward, to make sure no air got into the system.
While the tank is off, remove both side covers and inspect, clean wiring and fuses. If your bike is over 10 years old, I would recommend changing out your fuses. This is a preventive maintenance item only - Honda Direct Line Mini Fuse Emergency Kit #TY01-201222 (our part #LIF-00940363ZP) kit includes #3A, 5A, 7A, 10A, 15A,20A, 25A, 30A, and fuse puller. Your fuse box (should have) 2 spare fuses - #5A (orange) and #10A (red). The 30A fuse is your main fuse, located separately in its own box next to the battery.
If needed, use electrical tape, plastic tie straps to position wiring where needed. Give it a good cleaning under there, wiping away any dust and dirt – its amazing how much collects under there. Use Armor-All on all rubber hoses, exterior of cables and WD-40 on any exposed metal clamps, cables and bolts. Recommended product for cable lube; Cable Luber - Motion Pro Cable Luber, and Motion Pro Cable Lube, 6 Oz Can - Motion Pro Motion Pro Cable Lube, 6oz can – of course you could use WD-40.
Or - replace with new plugs: Denso #XU20EPRU (regular riding), Denso #XU22EPRU (for highway or high-speed riding).
  • Inspect tire ware and make notation of where they are at (check tire ware indicator located on you the tire itself. Stock tire PSI:
  • Front – 140/80-17 PSI is 33
  • Rear – 170/80-15 PSI is 36
  • Remove and visually inspect the brake pads – check ware marks located on the pads, if needed replace pads, Front Honda #06455-MEA-672, Rear Honda #43105-MW0-415. Use a micrometer to inspect the brake rotors;
  • Measure each disc thickness at six different points across the brake contact points.
  • Standard brake thickness is 5.8mm – 6.2mm, service ware limit is 5.0mm
Inspect the brake lines for cracks, leaks and all connections are tight. Make sure your fluid lever is at “full” level marks in master cylinders.
  • Closely inspect all mounting bolts throughout the bike, make sure nothing is loose, tighten to proper torque specs – consult the Service Manual.
  • Inspect the underneath/frame of the bike. If pitted or rusted, sand the effected area, cover everything you don’t want painted and carefully spray with a coat of “Rust-Oleum” gloss black.
  • Completely fill the gas tank – use the proper amount of Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer, start the bike up and allow to run for 3-5 minutes to fully circulate the fresh oil and gas.
  • If (and only if) your rear wheel is off the ground – put the bike in 1st gear, and circulate the final drive oil and well.
  • Completely clean the bike, give it a really good going over.
  • For Winter storage - use a battery tender (I recommend – Hulkman Sigma 5 Car Batter Charger 5000mA 6v/12v Automatic start trickle charger battery maintainer and Desulfator with intelligent interface.
  • Make sure this is used in a vented, fire safe area. If kept in a closed storage area or for long-term storage (longer than 6 months), remove the battery (negative terminal first), store on a wooden bench preferably inside.
  • For storage keep the bike elevated on your stand or at lease park bike on a piece of carpet. Cover the bike with your motorcycle bike cover or breathable cover or a soft cotton bed sheet.
NOTE→ Don’t use one of your wife’s good sheets! Really bad move! Trust me.
  • Make sure the bike is completely cooled down, then plug the exhaust popes with a dry cotton cloth, finally, cover the exhaust opening with a plastic bag and seal with a rubber band to secure it to the end of the exhaust pipes. This is claimed to avoid any condensation from forming further up toward the engine. I do this and think it is a good idea for additional storage safety.
  • Keep the bike stored in a dry area, away from items that use high levers of electricity like hot water heaters, dryers – the ozone creates or promotes dry-rot. If dampness is present keep open cans of silica gel crystals or even kitty litter on the floor beneath the bike.
NOTE→ Do not start the bike up periodically as this increases condensation in the engine and may drain the batteries charging potential.
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· Registered
370 Posts
No problem. If you don't have one, pick up a copy of the Honda Service Manual for your year bike - check ebay. Tons of very useful info there.
Over the years, I have listen to (read about) a lot of folks on this channel describe their problems with their VTX's, most (not all) can come down to improper or lack of maintenance. Remember these are just machines, and require proper/regular work.
Also (imho), once you start down the dark side of slapping on "mods" or "non-stock upgrades" to your bike, than you had better make sure you know what that does to your bike and how to properly maintain those parts or mods.
Best of luck and good riding to all of you, and as always - if you have any further question, just chime in on the channel and myself or someone, I'm sure will steer you in the right direction, and if that doesn't work;
"You will pray to him and he will hear you... and light will shine on the road ahead of you." Job 22:27a & 28b
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