[X'N]

1. Will a F seat fit on a C? It will but it doesn't look good

2. Will a F seat work with an 02-04 C tank? Yes, but...

3. Will a C inner fender support work with an F fender. No

4. Will C fender struts work with a F fend. Yep sure do and look great.

5. Will a C seat work with a F rear fender. NO

 

[X'N]

Fender Swap info

First off all VTX frames are the same when it comes to mounting the fender Yes I said all 1300 and 1800. Yes you can swap a 1800 fender on your 1300 and vise versa.

Next we will talk about fender bolt spacing.

The C and F model have the same bolt pattern. The fender struts are also the same only difference is looks.
The inner support frame on a C and F model are different and will not interchange between each other.

The R, S, N, T model fenders all have the same bolt spacing. And once again you can interchange any of the fender struts from these fenders, but they do look different. From what I can tell the only difference in the inner fender support for these fenders are the N model is different than the others.

A side note on 1800 tanks. The early model tanks (can be identified easily by a seam at the bottom edge of the tank and have a fuel pump mounted in the tank)

02-04 C tanks are the same, in 2005 they changed the tank to the new style tank and relocated the fuel pump in front of the rear tire. The 05 and up C tanks are the same as the F model tanks.

02-04 R & S tanks are the same in 2005 they changed the tank to the new style tank and relocated the fuel pump in front of the rear tire. 2005 and up R & S tanks are the same as the 2004 and up N tank and the T tank.

On main difference you will notice between the tank and seat is this situation. The picture below shows a 2002 C tank with a F seat. The newer tanks come back further to take up this gap.

Seats...

So when it comes to bolting them down the C and F models mount the same and the R,S,N,T mount the same, but you can't inter change for example a C seat with a R fender with out figuring out a different way to bolt the seat down.

My thread here explains the differences between the C/F fender and seat issues. http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206691 Some people have had luck mounting a C seat with a F fender, but I believe you would have to do some major trimming to the seat pan to get it to work.

Will a R seat fit on a N fender? Yes it fits good, but the R fender has a bracket that the passenger seat bolts to that is not on the N fender so to solve this you can just remove some of the rubber bumpers on the bottom of the rear seat and install some suction cups. Yes it works very well and your wife will never know unless you tell her :thumbup:

Also when choosing a seat try and get a seat from the same style/year of tank you have.


Good luck!

 

[TCB]

Great write Up :thumbup:

 

[Chicago-Spike]

Flangeless Tank install by X'N

Been dreaming of a flangeless tank? It may be cheaper than you think.

Here is how I did mine.

Shopping list: (all prices are what I paid for my parts)

1. New Flangeless tank ($220.00) 05 and up C and F tanks are the same.
2. Walbro GSL393 fuel pump ($ 75.00 ebay)
3. Universal inline fuel pump kit P/N 400-939 (mine was included with my pump)
4. Banjo fitting 12mm P/N 128-3027 ($8.05)
5. I'm not sure what size fitting is included with the kit so buy this fitting. 8 mm hose fitting P/N 128-3024 ($4.22) (best fit for 5/16 hose.)

6. Banjo 12mm nut P/N N-011-069-1 buy it from your local VW dealer ($2.22) (Thanks to Jon's1800VTXC)
7. 6 feet of 5/16 fuel hose (low pressure is fine) ($7.00)
8. 6 feet of 3/8 fuel hose (low pressure is fine) ($7.00)
9. 1 of 5012K82 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket for 1/4" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off Valve (McMaster Carr) (6.90)

10. 1 of 5012K83 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket for 3/8" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster Carr) (6.90)

11. 1 of 5012K712 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 5/16" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster Carr) (6.7

12. 1 of 5012K86 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 3/8" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster Carr) $6.78

13. 1 of 5012K72 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 3/8" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Straight Thru (McMaster Carr) $1.37 Each

14. 1 small universal fuel filter I got the smallest fram metal inline filter my auto store had. (5/16 hose)
15. Fuel sending unit. RESERVE UNIT 37810-MCH-F10 ($32.84) from HDL!
16. O-RING (39.5X5) 91305-MC7-000 ($2.50) from HDL!
17. NUT, FLANGE (6MM) 94050-06080 Need 4 ($2.50ea) from HDL!
18. If you have a C model you will need a new dash cover from honda and the bracket 17623-MCH-C10ZA 001 $86.66 F model dashes are a bolt on item except for the wiring.

If you have a retro I think all year dash units are the same.
19. 10 3/8 hose claps.

Total spent $397.56 and I'll add say 75 bucks for shipping and fudge factor so say $475.00

Now to off set that cost a little. Sell your old stuff.
I got $ 225.00 for my tank
$125.00 for my fuel pump
$ 25.00 for my dash cover

Make sure to keep your high pressure hose from your fuel tank and the fuel return line. We will use these!

For a total of $ 375.00 bucks back

My real out of pocket money spent $ 100.00 ! Still want to fill in that lip and repaint? Did I work for it YEP!

FYI: I traded my time to help a friend and he hooked me up with an F dash so this saved me BIG TIME.

Here is how to install:

Note: if you don't have your pair valve system removed and at least the back of your stock air cleaner box cut off install may be a problem.

1. Install the fuel pump above the throttle body as shown. You will want your high pressure fuel line routed before you mount your pump. I used self drilling/tapping screws.

Route the hose like this make sure to use the stock crush washers.

Rotate this clamp if it rubs on you hose.

2. Install a short piece of 5/16 hose between the pump inlet and the fuel filter (I had an extra fuel pump cover so I cut it to fit around my filter). Route the 5/16 fuel line from the filter under the back bone and into the left side of under the seat.

NOTE: I tried may spots to fit the fuel filter like under the back bone, by the intake, over the front cylinder, in the tool box, under the tool box behind the rear motor mount… I found where I put it to be the best spot to avoid having to loop a lot unneeded hose. If you can find a fuel filter that has one or even two 90* elbows on it you could put it a lot of other places.

3. Remove the fuel pump (brown) power wire from the black 3 pin connector. You can use a small pick to push the side prong over and it will release the pin from the socket. Now solder a new wire in (this is your 12+ pump power) (make sure NOT to cut the brown with a black stripe wire that one is for the sending unit!). Also make up a ground wire I connected it using one of the old mounting points for the pair system. The new fuel sending unit will plug right into the old socket. (Thanks again to Jon's1800VTXC for the great idea)

4. Set the tank in place. Plug in your vent line on the tank it is the smallest hose. I had to trim mine back some. Now you can figure out your fuel return line the new tank fitting is 5/16 so install the (Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 5/16" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off) on the hose and install the (Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket for 1/4" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off Valve) on your stock return line and connect the 2. The big 3/8 hose end under the center of the tank is a moisture drain from the top of the tank (I think this is only on the C and F tanks)

Vent line

Fuel return

Drain line

5. Connect a 3/8 fuel hose to the fuel outlet at the back of the tank. And route above the rear motor mount. Now loop the 5/16 hose around and back down as shown and use the quick couplers to connect the 2 hoses. FYI the extra 3/8 non shut-off fitting is for draining fuel from your tank!

5/16 hose looped

6. Tighten all you connections, install your fuel sending unit, install your dash, mount the tank, fuel and fire it up, check for leaks and go for a ride.

Suppliers
http://www.mcmaster.com/
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/
http://www.inlinefuelpumps.com/
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/

Sorry about the picture quality its hard to get good pictures with a flash...

Author: X'N

 

[horseman8m]

Measure the gap between your fuel tank and frame

Do you have enough room ?


Are you thinking of installing some cool LEDs under your fuel tank.
Did you ever wounder how much room there is between the fuel tank and the frame, or even how to measure it.
This should work on most Motorcycles to see if the wires are going to fit.
First remove your fuel tank.
Then get some modeling clay ( dollar tree $1) .
Make a piller of clay and place it in the spot you want to measure.
I would put more then one at a time.
Cover it with a rag or paper towel, so it won't stick to the tank.

When you put the tank back on make sure that you have it installed nice and tight.
Then remove the tank and remove the rag.
Now measure the height of the flattened clay and you will have your distance .

Remove the clay, and you are ready to install the wires in the gap between your tank and frame.
Don't forget that vibration will ware through wires fast, so use wire ties and always use an inline fuse.

I hope this helps when it is time to mod your bike.
Horseman (Jonathan)

 

[Chicago-Spike]

The 1800 has several models to choose from;
C, F, Neo, Retro, Retro with Spokes, Touring

Any model wheels will fit on all the other models. They are direct swaps, no modifications needed, they use the same bearings, axle, spacers, and rotors.
The only exception is with the Retro with Spokes. The rear wheel on the S model has a smaller rotor cut-out and will not swap onto any other wheel. So, if you are going from S wheels to cast wheels, you will need to buy the rear rotor for the cast wheels.

Of course, the rim diameters vary, so in all likelyhood, you will need tires to fit on the new wheels

 

[Tejas_Ranger]

...snip...A side note on 1800 tanks. The early model tanks (can be identified easily by a seam at the bottom edge of the tank and have a fuel pump mounted in the tank)

02-04 C tanks are the same, in 2005 they changed the tank to the new style tank and relocated the fuel pump in front of the rear tire. The 05 and up C tanks are the same as the F model tanks.

02-04 R & S tanks are the same in 2005 they changed the tank to the new style tank and relocated the fuel pump in front of the rear tire. 2005 and up R & S tanks are the same as the 2004 and up N tank and the T tank.

On main difference you will notice between the tank and seat is this situation. The picture below shows a 2002 C tank with a F seat. The newer tanks come back further to take up this gap. ...snip...

Sorry X'N, this part of the write is wrong. I have an '04 and it has the external fuel pump. For R's and S's '04 was the year they moved to external fuel pumps and placed the coolant overflow on the left side between the jugs.

Tejas

 

[X-Beast Driver]

Swapping Sidecovers to C Model Sidecover

If you have a F, N, R, S, or T model and you want to install C model 2 into 1 exhaust it still leaves you with the sidecover dilema. On the right side you have that funny looking short sidecover with the recess where your aft pipe used to go. The solution is to install C model sidecovers. However the pins don't line up so how do you fix that? There is an adapter kit of sorts that you can buy that will relocate / or add the bottom pin connection for the C model sidecover. Here are the Honda OEM part numbers. I put left and right chrome C model sidecovers on my 1800F. The left side doesn't need any modification to make the C model cover fit. It just plugs in. You only need to do the mod on the right side.


Side cover mount 50173-MCH-C10
Grommet 83551-300-000


Here are some pics of the mod & installation process.

Stock Right Side F Model Sidecover, you can see the gap where the pipe used to go.

This pic shows the bottom mounting clip bracket that needs to be removed. You can reuse the mounting screw on this bracket to install the new bracket.

This pic shows the new mounting bracket with the grommet. I had to slot the screw hole slightly to get the mounting pin to line up. It's not shown in this picture but you'll understand it if you have that problem.

This pic shows the new mounting bracket installed. I painted it with some rustolium after slotting the mounting hole.

This is the end product of my endeavor. Way cool man! :thumbup:

 

[DBoyz]

No Name Fairing Install On A 1800N

Seems there are alot of questions about fairings lately. Here's my experience with "EBay Fairing".

Fairing bought on Ebay supposedly made by Dragula Cycles.
Paid $200 for fairing, from other vendors I purchsed a radio($100),speakers($100), $40 for powered antenna and about $50 in misc.(prep. items & chrome nuts and bolts).
Fairing not sold as a direct fitment for an N so some alternate mounts needed to made to keep fairing from contacting tank on full right or left turns of bars.
Fairing is made with fiberglass mat instead of chopped fiberglass. A short, about 6" clear windshield comes with fairing. I elected to cut a spare Swithblade shield I had to give me a little taller one, about 10 inches.

Fairing comes to you far from being paint ready, some paint prep and fiberglass resin experience is helpful here otherwise let your painter do all the prep work at an additional cost. I used fiberglass 2 part resin as a filler instead of regular auto body filler. Basically same way to mix but resin is more liquid than body filler, so I used a brush to apply coats of resin. Once dry the resin sands the same as body filler.

The spacers as shown in the pics where made with thick wall pvc, end caps made with fiberglass resin then glued into place(resin doesn't bond very well to pvc). I used some black heat shrink tubing to cover most of the stainless pipe straps as not mar the paint when installing the fairing.

Overall the fairing looks as good as any of the higher priced fairings, but there was some work to get it that way.

 

[DBoyz]

 

[DBoyz]

 

[Pman71]

Harley Fairing on a VTX, this is what I did for now.....

Not sure what happened there? Sorry for dropping that on this page.

 

[anderson930]

Been dreaming of a flangeless tank? It may be cheaper than you think.

Here is how I did mine.

1. New Flangeless tank (2005 and up C and F tanks are the same)
2. Walbro GSL393 fuel pump ($ 75.00 ebay)
3. Universal inline fuel pump kit P/N 400-939 (mine was included with my pump)
4. Banjo fitting 12mm P/N 128-3027 ($8.05)
5. 8 mm hose fitting P/N 128-3024 ($4.22) (best fit for 5/16 hose.)
6. Banjo 12mm nut P/N N-011-069-1 buy it from your local VW dealer ($2.22) (Thanks to Jon's1800VTXC)
7. 6 feet of 5/16 fuel hose (low pressure is fine) ($7.00)
8. 6 feet of 3/8 fuel hose (low pressure is fine) ($7.00)
9. 1 of 5012K82 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket for 1/4" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off Valve (McMaster Carr) (6.90)
10. 1 of 5012K83 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket for 3/8" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster Carr) (6.90)
11. 2 of 5012K712 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 5/16" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster Carr) (6.7
12. 1 of 5012K86 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 3/8" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster Carr) $6.78
13. 1 of 5012K72 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 3/8" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Straight Thru (McMaster Carr) $1.37 Each
14. 1 small universal fuel filter I got the smallest fram metal inline filter my auto store had. (5/16 hose)
15. Fuel sending unit. RESERVE UNIT 37810-MCH-F10 ($32.84) from HDL!
16. O-RING (39.5X5) 91305-MC7-000 ($2.50) from HDL!
17. NUT, FLANGE (6MM) 94050-06080 Need 4 ($2.50ea) from HDL!
18. If you have a C model you will need a new dash cover from honda and the bracket 17623-MCH-C10ZA 001 $86.66 F model dashes are a bolt on item except for the wiring.
19. 10 3/8 hose claps.

I'm using this post to install my recently purchased '05 F tank onto my '02 1800C, and thought it may be helpful to update/ improve upon the post. So far I'm in the process of ordering parts. Here's what I've got so far--- updated prices and links for vendors:

$32.94 Fuel sending unit. RESERVE UNIT 37810-MCH-F10
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-37810-MCH-F10.html
$1.91 O-RING (39.5X5) 91305-MC7-000
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-91305-MC7-000.html
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$11.15 Universal inline fuel pump kit P/N 400-939
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=400-939&Tp
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$106 Fuel pump http://www.ebay.com/itm/320548700026?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
$7.50 Banjo fitting 12mm P/N 128-3027
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-Fuel...-12mm-Banjo-Fitting-fits-GSL392-/181192914817
$7.25 8 mm Hose fitting P/N 128-3024 (best fit for 5/16 hose.)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-Fuel-Pump-Fitting-128-3024-8mm-fitting-fits-GSL392-/170920915164
$19.10 6’ of 5/16” fuel hose (low pressure is fine)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-16-X-25-F...NE-GAS-E-85-BIO-DIESEL-USA-MADE-/281463876714
$21.00 6’ of 3/8” fuel hose (low pressure is fine)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Line-3-8-x-25-Spool-Roll-MADE-IN-USA-GAS-HOSE-NEW-/400290441906
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$0.80 4 x NUT, FLANGE (6MM) 94050-06080
http://www.amazon.com/Honda-94050-06080-NUT-FLANGE-Made/dp/B00AJTJZQC
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$2.77 Banjo Nut 12mm Volkswagen P/N N-011-069-1
http://www.vwpartsdept.com/OEMParts/volkswagen-157/N/N0110691.html
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$ Fram small universal metal inline fuel filter (5/16" hose)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$9.64 10 3/8” hose clamps
http://www.finditparts.com/products...w6peudxiyiRy2yYI3Xk3hD7UH-DP3wJ_zIRoCS9Dw_wcB
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$9.09 1 of 5012K82 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket for 1/4" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off Valve (McMaster-Carr)
$9.09 1 of 5012K83 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket for 3/8" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster-Carr)
$15.42 2 of 5012K712 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 5/16" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster-Carr)
$7.71 1 of 5012K86 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 3/8" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster-Carr)

I already have the tank, OE digital dash, and bezel.

I just ordered the parts from McMaster-Carr, so outside of the other above parts, I also need to order an OE fuel cap ($100 on fleaBay).

When I have all the parts and begin the install, I'll see if I can elaborate on the how-to.


Thanks for the original post, Spike! If you can help me out at all with the specifics of the fuel filter, it'd be much appreciated.

 

[X'N]

Thanks for the original post, Spike! If you can help me out at all with the specifics of the fuel filter, it'd be much appreciated.

I was the original author of that post, Spike had just moved it from another thread.
I just used a metal fram filter. One word of caution I had mine ziptied to the back bone above the throttle body. I had some probems with my bike shutting down in some heat on a vacation and I removed the filter. Try and put your filter as far away from heat as you can.

 

[anderson930]

I was the original author of that post, Spike had just moved it from another thread.
I just used a metal fram filter. One word of caution I had mine ziptied to the back bone above the throttle body. I had some probems with my bike shutting down in some heat on a vacation and I removed the filter. Try and put your filter as far away from heat as you can.

Sorry about that, X'N, I thought he was just piggy-backing onto your thread. Gotta give proper credit its due! Thanks for getting back to me on that, I appreciate it. And I will absolutely heed that advice, hopefully that'll save me some future headaches.

 

[Chicago-Spike]

Hey, be fair, I put "Author X'N" in big bold font at the bottom and "By X'N" in the header. :mrgreen:

 

[anderson930]

This is true. You guys will have to forgive my poor attention to detail

 

[X'N]

Hey, be fair, I put "Author X'N" in big bold font at the bottom and "By X'N" in the header. :mrgreen:

Yep no worries

 

[anderson930]

I would add an additional **5012K712 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 5/16" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off**.

One is needed for the fuel line connecting the 3/8" to 5/16" hose under the seat area as indicated in Step 2 of X'N's write up, but another is needed for another 3/8" to 5/16" connection under the left/front side of the tank in Step 5.

I also drilled & threaded the frame backbone and used bolts to attach the fuel pump rather than self-tapping screws.

Other than that, this is a straightforward project.
Thanks again, X'N!

 

[BikerJoeVTX1800c]

Fuel pump

Been dreaming of a flangeless tank? It may be cheaper than you think.

Here is how I did mine.

Shopping list: (all prices are what I paid for my parts)

1. New Flangeless tank ($220.00) 05 and up C and F tanks are the same.
2. Walbro GSL393 fuel pump ($ 75.00 ebay)
3. Universal inline fuel pump kit P/N 400-939 (mine was included with my pump)
4. Banjo fitting 12mm P/N 128-3027 ($8.05)
5. I'm not sure what size fitting is included with the kit so buy this fitting. 8 mm hose fitting P/N 128-3024 ($4.22) (best fit for 5/16 hose.)

6. Banjo 12mm nut P/N N-011-069-1 buy it from your local VW dealer ($2.22) (Thanks to Jon's1800VTXC)
7. 6 feet of 5/16 fuel hose (low pressure is fine) ($7.00)
8. 6 feet of 3/8 fuel hose (low pressure is fine) ($7.00)
9. 1 of 5012K82 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket for 1/4" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off Valve (McMaster Carr) (6.90)

10. 1 of 5012K83 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket for 3/8" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster Carr) (6.90)

11. 1 of 5012K712 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 5/16" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster Carr) (6.7

12. 1 of 5012K86 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 3/8" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off (McMaster Carr) $6.78

13. 1 of 5012K72 Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 3/8" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Straight Thru (McMaster Carr) $1.37 Each

14. 1 small universal fuel filter I got the smallest fram metal inline filter my auto store had. (5/16 hose)
15. Fuel sending unit. RESERVE UNIT 37810-MCH-F10 ($32.84) from HDL!
16. O-RING (39.5X5) 91305-MC7-000 ($2.50) from HDL!
17. NUT, FLANGE (6MM) 94050-06080 Need 4 ($2.50ea) from HDL!
18. If you have a C model you will need a new dash cover from honda and the bracket 17623-MCH-C10ZA 001 $86.66 F model dashes are a bolt on item except for the wiring.

If you have a retro I think all year dash units are the same.
19. 10 3/8 hose claps.

Total spent $397.56 and I'll add say 75 bucks for shipping and fudge factor so say $475.00

Now to off set that cost a little. Sell your old stuff.
I got $ 225.00 for my tank
$125.00 for my fuel pump
$ 25.00 for my dash cover

Make sure to keep your high pressure hose from your fuel tank and the fuel return line. We will use these!

For a total of $ 375.00 bucks back

My real out of pocket money spent $ 100.00 ! Still want to fill in that lip and repaint? Did I work for it YEP!

FYI: I traded my time to help a friend and he hooked me up with an F dash so this saved me BIG TIME.

Here is how to install:

Note: if you don't have your pair valve system removed and at least the back of your stock air cleaner box cut off install may be a problem.

1. Install the fuel pump above the throttle body as shown. You will want your high pressure fuel line routed before you mount your pump. I used self drilling/tapping screws.

Route the hose like this make sure to use the stock crush washers.

Rotate this clamp if it rubs on you hose.

2. Install a short piece of 5/16 hose between the pump inlet and the fuel filter (I had an extra fuel pump cover so I cut it to fit around my filter). Route the 5/16 fuel line from the filter under the back bone and into the left side of under the seat.

NOTE: I tried may spots to fit the fuel filter like under the back bone, by the intake, over the front cylinder, in the tool box, under the tool box behind the rear motor mount… I found where I put it to be the best spot to avoid having to loop a lot unneeded hose. If you can find a fuel filter that has one or even two 90* elbows on it you could put it a lot of other places.

3. Remove the fuel pump (brown) power wire from the black 3 pin connector. You can use a small pick to push the side prong over and it will release the pin from the socket. Now solder a new wire in (this is your 12+ pump power) (make sure NOT to cut the brown with a black stripe wire that one is for the sending unit!). Also make up a ground wire I connected it using one of the old mounting points for the pair system. The new fuel sending unit will plug right into the old socket. (Thanks again to Jon's1800VTXC for the great idea)

4. Set the tank in place. Plug in your vent line on the tank it is the smallest hose. I had to trim mine back some. Now you can figure out your fuel return line the new tank fitting is 5/16 so install the (Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug for 5/16" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off) on the hose and install the (Acetal Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket for 1/4" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off Valve) on your stock return line and connect the 2. The big 3/8 hose end under the center of the tank is a moisture drain from the top of the tank (I think this is only on the C and F tanks)

Vent line

Fuel return

Drain line

5. Connect a 3/8 fuel hose to the fuel outlet at the back of the tank. And route above the rear motor mount. Now loop the 5/16 hose around and back down as shown and use the quick couplers to connect the 2 hoses. FYI the extra 3/8 non shut-off fitting is for draining fuel from your tank!

5/16 hose looped

6. Tighten all you connections, install your fuel sending unit, install your dash, mount the tank, fuel and fire it up, check for leaks and go for a ride.

Suppliers
http://www.mcmaster.com/
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/
http://www.inlinefuelpumps.com/
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/

Sorry about the picture quality its hard to get good pictures with a flash...

Author: X'N

Will this fit?
WALBRO GSL393 160LPH Universal Inline External Fuel Pump w/ Install Kit 400-939
Found it on eBay.