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i have the 2005 N and did the ground mod. as for as the secondary ground, there was'nt one. what do i do in this case? leave it alone? add another ground? any ideas while i have the bike apart? and doing the desmog while i have it down. two birds with one rock.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
i have the 2005 N and did the ground mod. as for as the secondary ground, there was'nt one. what do i do in this case? leave it alone? add another ground? any ideas while i have the bike apart? and doing the desmog while i have it down. two birds with one rock.
You're done. The secondary ground is only for 2002 models
 

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Spike

On the main engine ground, why is the oil fitler there??????? Mine is on the very BACK of the engine nowhere near this picture and I ran my ground to a point on the oppisite side of the bike under the big chrome cover on the left side as you sit on it, I forget what this piece is. Its a common part there. I did it in 02 when biglry was still working out things and so on. Well you remember, you were there. I'll try to get a picture tomorrow and post it so you can see what I'm talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
On the main engine ground, why is the oil fitler there??????? Mine is on the very BACK of the engine nowhere near this picture and I ran my ground to a point on the oppisite side of the bike under the big chrome cover on the left side as you sit on it, I forget what this piece is. Its a common part there. I did it in 02 when biglry was still working out things and so on. Well you remember, you were there. I'll try to get a picture tomorrow and post it so you can see what I'm talking about.
That IS the back of the engine, see the coolant tank at the top of the pic. The camera is looking straight up at the bottom/rear of the engine
 

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That IS the back of the engine, see the coolant tank at the top of the pic. The camera is looking straight up at the bottom/rear of the engine
But I mean pointing straight out the back. I put the filter wrench cap on the filter and feed my LONG extention through the tank area where the overflow line attaches and into the filter wrench. The filter sticks straight out toward the rear wheel. This appears to be up on the side and kind of on an angle. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong but that is how it looks to me.
 

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I just finished this mod/repair. Its pouring down rain outside so I cant ride but I can tell from the way it idles and revs up it's different. I found a bunch of oxidation around the connections at the coil and my battery terminals were finger tight. I can't wait to give it a whirl. :thumbup:

P.S.
I did this on a 2007 1800T
 

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WOW!!!!!! I can't believe I waited so long to do this fix. All I can say is I have a whole new ride I can't believe what a difference a little sanding and fileing makes, I didn't think I needed to do the fix because I thought I was running good but wow was I surprised, COMPLETELY ELIMINATED my decel popping!!!!THANK YOU FOR POSTING THE EASY WALK THRU INSTRUCTIONS.
 

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Ground fix not working, help!

Performed the ground fix twice, followed the instructions to the letter, and it runs great for a 100 miles or so and then back to chitty. What's next? Anything else I can try before I have to take it to the stealer.
 

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Mine did the same thing. I would like to know as well.
Joe
 

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Think I sheared the case bolt!

I was in the process of doing the chassis ground fix (among other things)...and in the process of removing the case bolt where ground was installed by Honda, apparently I twisted it clean in two:oops: So clean that I didn't even notice until I tried to put it back in and it wouldn't bite (The piece I got out is about 1 1/4" long with only about 1/2" of thread). Now I guess I gotta drop the exhaust and tap that sucker out:mad:

Thoughts or advice welcome...
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I was in the process of doing the chassis ground fix (among other things)...and in the process of removing the case bolt where ground was installed by Honda, apparently I twisted it clean in two:oops: So clean that I didn't even notice until I tried to put it back in and it wouldn't bite (The piece I got out is about 1 1/4" long with only about 1/2" of thread). Now I guess I gotta drop the exhaust and tap that sucker out:mad:

Thoughts or advice welcome...
You didn't have to touch that ground. The ONLY ground you have to worry about is the "Common Electronics Ground" by the coil
 

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You didn't have to touch that ground. The ONLY ground you have to worry about is the "Common Electronics Ground" by the coil
That being said...now I got more work to do...
 

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Need additional help

Last week, I spent my Friday night doing the ground fix on my 2002 vtx1800c. I filed down all things required, I tighten all my bolts including battery and added pookie to every area possible. It definitely fixed my backfire and my misfire.
But my engine still shuts off when riding.
I did notice that it only shuts off when I am going over 75mph, and i just flip my switch off and on. and just keep riding till it shuts off again or I stay under 75.
Is there something i missed or is there another fix?Any ideas?

should i be using a particular type of screw in the how to? since i noticed i had all types, stainless steel in the coils. brass and green steel bolt that to attaches parts to the frame. I'm assuming certain bolts carry a better current than others.
I am also missing a U shape plate on my other coil where it attaches to the mounting bracket, is this necessary and/or the issue?

I appreciate the help
Thanks Tapper for the How To. I was very close to replacing my ECU and wasting $700.
 

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What about the "other" coil pack? it's on the other side of the frame "backbone", further back.
It serves the rear cylinder, and has stand-offs, but also has the same "painted frame" problem as the forward coil pack.
While I had the tank off to do the recommended ground procedures, it occurred to me that there was another coil pack and mightn't it also not have a good ground?
So, I cleaned that one too. Cleared off the paint with my Dremel, also took apart the coil-to-bracket connections, cleaned them up and lubed them with dielectric grease.

If one coil-to-frame ground needs cleaning, shouldn't they both?

Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
What about the "other" coil pack? it's on the other side of the frame "backbone", further back.
It serves the rear cylinder, and has stand-offs, but also has the same "painted frame" problem as the forward coil pack.
While I had the tank off to do the recommended ground procedures, it occurred to me that there was another coil pack and mightn't it also not have a good ground?
So, I cleaned that one too. Cleared off the paint with my Dremel, also took apart the coil-to-bracket connections, cleaned them up and lubed them with dielectric grease.

If one coil-to-frame ground needs cleaning, shouldn't they both?

Best of luck!
It won't hurt but the ECU only ground through the front coil bolt. This is why it starts running bad
 

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Great thread

Thanks for this well written and illustrated article! I love this site! :mcrider:
 

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If the ground stack of ring terminals are not buffed to fresh surface on both sides (Dremel with Scotchbright wheel - and dielectric applied to them -
then restacked - no amount of paint removal will have any benefit.

One could place a nylon washer under the stack - against the frame and not defeat the ground from frame bolted tight.

This is the problem with some who use pressure washer blindly - and now this area remains wet for hours -
perfect for layer corrosion as a battery of stacked lead plates.

Honda knows what it's doing - it's user error causing the problems.
No different than problems caused by stacking connections on battery posts.

Honda doesn't & never has approved this.
Every added connection acts as a bearing surface - making the cables loosen too easy from road shock.

Get a fuse box if adding stuff.
 
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