[Chicago-Spike]

I broke the bottom screw on my Airbox

I think this must happen to everybody including me. I used a flat screwdriver to keep outward pressure on the airbox and screw while unscrewing the fastener. Once out re-set the screw holder with JB weld or some other high strength glue. I also used a small hose clamp to tighten up the screw holder. Once dry, holds like a champ. Leave the clamp on for good measure. Remember these screws only require 2.5 lbs torque to re-install so be gentle. Mike
Last update: 2004-06-25 09:42
Author: Mike Bareass

 

[Chicago-Spike]

Differences between CA model and 49-state models

Differences between CA model and 49-state models


Want a 49-stater? Just want to know the difference between the 49 stater and the CA only model?
I’ve been wanting to do this for some time as there has been a lot of talk on the differences between the CA model bike and the 49st bike the following information is from Hondas Parts catalog for the VTX 1800C’02. GREEN= CALIFORNIA MODEL
YELLOW= 49 STATER

• The Intake Manifold #17110-MCH-700 is for the CA
  Intake Manifold #17110-MCH-000 is a 49st
• 49st Intake Manifold booster cap #16215-MCH-000
  49st Intake Manifold tube clip #95002-02070.
• Bracket, PCV #50328-MCH-000 for the 49st
  Bracket, PCV #50328-MCH-770 for the CA bike. The CA bracket has two threaded mount holes for the Purge Control Solenoid to mount on.
• Purge Control Solenoid, Valve Assy.# 36162-P2M-A01 CA only.
• The Wire Harness #32100-MCH-672 is a 49st It has no receiving plugs for the o2 sensor or the Purge Control Solenoid.
  Wire Harness #32100-MCH-772 is for the CA.
• PMG-FI unit (ECU) is a #38770-MCH-671 for a 49st
  PMG-FI (ECU) #38770-MCH-772 for the CA model.
• Frame #50100-MCH-000 is 49st
  Frame #50100-MCH-770 is a CA and has the two EVAP canister mounting tabs under the back of the frame.
• The Exhaust rear pipe #18420-MCH-670 is for the 49st
  Exhaust rear pipe #18420-MCH-000 is CA and has the bung hole for the o2 sensor to screw in.
• Muffler #18305-MCH-670 is for the 49st
  Muffler #18305-MHC-770 is a CA with a Three stage catalytic converter inside.
• Four vacuum hoses that are all #95005-45001 only on the 49st and are –10m and–20m at the end of the part number and are for fuel tank venting.
• Oxygen Sensor # 36531-MCJ-611 CA only.

The last set of parts numbers are all the EVAP Canister parts for the CA bike only.

• Fuel Tube Joint #16958-GJ6-000
• Vacuum tube (a three way connector) #17201-MG9-000
  Canister #17410-MCH-771
• (PCS-Canister) Tube#17412-MCH-770
• Tube Joint #19126-KM1-010
• Headlight case setting rubber #61304-415-000 (Their the rubber inserts for the EVAP canister to sit against as shock absorbers).
• Collar #90501-425-000 (inserts for the headlight case setting rubbers).
• Bulk Vacuum Hose #95005-35001-20m
• Bulk Vacuum Hose #95005-80001-20m
• Bulk Vacuum Hose #95005-45001-10m & 20m.

Now as for the VTX Retro I’m not sure, but the one thing would be two o2 sensors and the plugs in the wire Harness. Author: BIGLRY Out

 

[Chicago-Spike]

Picture Guide to Removing the Fuel Tank

Picture Guide to Removing the Fuel Tank

Ok, this is an easy one, but still daunts a lot of new wrenches. But let’s face it, removing the tank makes many jobs vastly easier to perform. Once you’ve done it a time or two, you won’t think twice about it – it’s that easy. So here we go, lets get that big tub off the scoot.


Note: You should probably siphon all the gas out of your gas tank. Some tanks seem to empty themselves when the fuel line is disconnected, some don't. But no good reason to take a chance on a big fuel spill. You can also use a good hose clamp to clamp the fuel line as well. But siphoning always works.
Note2: This procedure doesn't apply to some of the later model bikes, which have a fuel pump located in front of the back tire. If you have one of these, be prepared to curse Honda for not including a pet**** on that fuel line you'll have to disconnect from the tank. You *will* spill a bunch of gas from it.


First things first, remove the seat. Most of you can do this, so we'll skip the instructions here, and get right too it. Once the seat is off, we need to remove the tank bolt, that actually secures the tank to the frame. Here’s a picture of it:

Ok, now lets remove the console. Using a hex wrench, remove the three lowermost bolts holding on the console.

Now, pull the console forward off the little tab at the front, and make sure you don’t lose that rubber cover thingy. Let the console hang along the side of the bike, but be sure not to bang it around and scratch it.

Ok, now that the bolt is removed, lets disconnect the hoses and schtuff. First, drape a fluffy towel over the front of your tank. That way, if the bars flop over suddenly, you won’t get a nasty ding in your tank.


Now, grasp the tank at the front and the back, and pull it back (towards the seat) and slightly up. The tank will slide off the big rubber grommets it rests on in the front. Rest the front of the tank on the frame. Now, pick up the rear of the tank, and disconnect the 3P electrical connector for the fuel pump.

Ok, now for the hoses. First, pull off the small overflow hose at the side of the tank. Now, the bitch of the whole thing – we need to remove the hose at the front of the tank, that’s secured there with a small pinch-style hose clamp. Hold the tank up (a helper makes it easier), and use a pair of pliers to open the hose clamp, and push it forward on the hose.

Now, push the hose up off the fitting. It’s cramped, and a pain in the butt the first time or too. I find it really helps, to swear like crazy during this step.


Got it? Whew, almost done. Now lets disconnect the fuel line. Use a 17mm socket, and remove the big acorn nut, being very careful not to lose or booger up those compression washers. But before you do this, wad a bunch of towels up under the nut, to catch the fuel that’s going to run out – you’ll dump about 3 or 4 tablespoons (you did siphon out the tank, right?), so be ready to blot it up.

Got it? Good deal. Now, pick up the tank, and set it aside, making sure not to put it on something that will damage the paint. That’s it man, you just removed the fuel tank.

To re-assemble, just reverse the order you used to remove it. One note: Don’t torque the tank bolt down to Honda’s specifications. If you do, you’ll twist the small end of the tank bolt off every time. Just torque it down a little snug, but don’t overdo it.
Good luck!
Tapper

Last update: 2007-03-13 18:39
Author: Tapper

 

[Chicago-Spike]

A Better Maintenance Schedule

A Better Maintenance Schedule

I do VTX work in the DFW area, and after several years, and a lot of bikes, along with actively participating in this forum with a lot of other folks, I've come up with a modified maintenance schedule for the VTX1800 that I suggest for all the bikes I maintain. I thought I'd share it with you, along with some of the reasoning behind it. If you can see something I've forgotten, or think something should be done differently, then please speak up. Help me make this a better guide.

Please note, you're perfectly safe using the Honda schedule. This just represents a schedule that I believe offers improvements, and saves a little money too. All mileages can be considered "neighborhood" numbers.

Daily

1. Spot-check fasteners
2. Check tire air pressure.
3. Eyeball the bike, looking for anything out of place.
4. Eyeball coolant level.

Monthly

1. Clean K&N air filter if you have one. You've got a re-usuable filter, and your bike will perform better, and get better mioleage when the filter is clean. Don't be lazy.

At every tire change

1. Inspect wheel bearings
2. Inspect flange bearing in rear wheel
3. Ensure moly paste was used to lubricate the drive splines
4. New tube for spoked tires
5. Verify pinch bolt torque
6. Verify axle bolt torque
7. Verify correct adjustment of front wheel spacing

0 miles

1. Buy a service manual. You'll need it, even if you aren't planning to do your own wrenching. The manual is an invaluable aid to keeping your bike running right.
2. Spot-check fasteners
3. Check tire air pressure.
4. Check oil level.
5. Check headlight aim

Ride your bike vigorously. Don't baby it. Get the rpms up. Don't roll down the road with the mill barely turning rpms.

600 Miles

1. Change crankcase oil. Use a cheap dino oil, it won't be in there very long. No need to change filter yet. This is just a flush change, designed to get the wear metals out of the motor before they can accelerate wear.
2. Change final drive oil. Use a good 75w-90 synthetic like Amsoil or Mobil One.
3. Bleed and flush all brake systems and the clutch, using Valvoline synpower. This helps get rid of particulates left in lines from manufacturing, bleeds any air out of system from factory fill and shipping, and gets a good fluid in there to start with.
4. Adjust throttle play - seldom comes correct from factory.
5. Synchronize throttle body - always good to get things where they need to be.
6. Check and adjust steering stem - usually right from factory, but always a good idea to confirm this. Note - Honda sets the stem tension much lighter than the manual suggests, on the order of one pound, using the tension check suggested.
7. Check shock bushings - these sometimes get crushed during factory install.
8. Check and/or set the valve lash - Honda is notorious for sending out bikes with the valve lash on the snug side. You want your rocker spindles to develop a wear pattern based on the arc created by the correct valve lash. Setting this early, will go a long way towards developing valves which seldom come out of spec.
9. Correctly set idle - 900-950rpm. Don't be lured into setting your idle too low to make your bike "lope" like a Harley. You have a double pin crank. If your bike lopes, it just means it's trying to stall.
10. Fasteners - Using the service manual, and a good calibrated torque wrench, verify as many fasteners as you can get to. Loosen and re-tighten your axle bolts. Loosen and re-tighten your fork pinch bolts. Do not test the caliper mounting bolts = they have locktite on them that you'll break the bond on if you test them. Be thorough here. Use a little silicone grease on fasteners that show rust to waterproof them.

1200 - 1500 miles

1. Change oil to Amsoil 10w-40. We're basically flushing all the early wear metal out of the motor this way.
2. Change oil filter.

Every 4000 miles

1. Check spark plugs. Clean them if dirty. Inspect electrode gap.
2. Do another comprehensive fastener check.
3. Inspect brake pads
4. Inspect tire wear
5. Give the bike a comprehensive eyeball check, looking for anything out of whack. Be thorough.
6. (Optional) Replace oil filter. Now start bike, let idle one minute, then stop motor and top off crankcase oil.
7. Check rear shock bushings

Every 8,000 miles

1. All 4,000 mile items
2. Inspect and/or check valve lash
3. Replace crankcase oil with new Amsoil 10w40
4. Replace oil filter.
5. Replace final drive oil
6. Set throttle body sync
7. Bleed and flush both brake systems and the clutch with valvoline synpower brake fluid.
8. Check and adjust steering stem - look for bad bearings, incorrect stem tension, etc.
9. Adjust throttle play
10. Set the idle
11. Check headlight aim
12. Fasteners - Using the service manual, and a good calibrated torque wrench, verify as many fasteners as you can get to. Loosen and re-tighten your axle bolts. Loosen and re-tighten your fork pinch bolts. Do not test the caliper mounting bolts = they have locktite on them that you'll break the bond on if you test them. Be thorough here. Use a little silicone grease on fasteners that show rust to waterproof them.


Every two years

1. Replace coolant
2. Replace battery
3. Replace headlight bulb
4. Replace turn indicator bulbs
5. Send an oil sample off to Blackstone Labs. Pay attention to the wear metals, since this gives you an indication of wear inside your motor where you can't see it.
Last update: 2006-01-08 16:18
Author: Tapper

 

[Chicago-Spike]

How to Break-In your new VTX engine

How to Break-In your new VTX engine

This is a great article by Pat McGivern, aka MOTOMAN, that gives us a How-To best break in the engines on your new VTX. It also works on your cars and trucks. I got permission from Pat to post this link here,
Thanks Pat,
Chicago-Spike

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Last update: 2007-04-05 20:51
Author: Larry McKenna

 

[VTX1800NR]

How I pump fuel from the 1800 tank with external fuel pump

This is how I empty my fuel tank on 1800 bikes with external fuel pumps.

Pulling the rear supply hose from the tank without getting most of the gas out can give you a gasoline bath and be dangerous. Some people have used quick disconnects spliced into the rear feeder hose with success and some have had them fail from vibration from what I have read on the California board. I am allergic to fire:yikes:.
Siphoning can work however it usually does not get enough out to prevent spillage. I use a high volume electric fuel pump from J.C. Whitney. It empties the tank in about 5 minutes since it is not pumping against any resistance. If you see no fuel being pumped through the clear tubing, just move or rotate the suction hose against the lower inside of the left rear of the tank and more fuel will get pumped. Make sure the bike is on its side stand.
The pump has no diaphragms or gears. If power is removed while pumping, this pump will allow gas to siphon thru if the container you are pumping to is lower than the fuel in the tank. Never leave it unattended. Make sure you have a 6-gallon receiver container or a couple containers with more capacity than the bike tank holds.
Here is a photo of my tank pump:

This is the 12-volt electric fuel pump I used:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=zx738898a

(cheaper slower pumps work just as well if you have time to spare)
The fuel filter on the intake side is optional but protects the pump and is only a couple of dollars.
You will also need about 8 feet of ¼” I.D. clear vinyl tubing with 2 clamps both available at Home Depot in the plumbing section. I connected the tubing to the pump using two brass 1/8” N.P.T. x ¼” barbed tubing connectors. You could substitute 5/16 “ tubing with the appropriate connectors.
As you can see in the photo I bent a welding rod to hang the pump from my left hand grip (a coat hangar will work). I put a plastic sandwich bag over my ignition switch to protect it and place a paper towel on it to catch the small amount of gas that will drip when the rear tank hose is pulled off the tank after pumping is completed.
I turn the power off and on using a 2-way flat electrical connector like this:

They can be found at auto supply stores and also at Radio Shack.
Be sure to make all wire connections well insulated and locate connectors or a switch if you like far enough away from gas fumes when powering the pump up or down. I use a 12-volt power supply to power the pump however the bike battery can also be the power source. Use common sense and don’t make sparks near gasoline. You and you alone are responsible if you are injured or cause any damage using my tank emptying method. Remember that gasoline can be more potent than dynamite.
Work safenojoke.

 

[Chicago-Spike]

Thanks for this idea and write-up!! Excellent idea :thumbup:

 

[Highway 61 Revisited]

1800 Prompt List

VTX 1800 Maintenance Schedule and Prompt List

Revised March 2013


General Maintenance Schedule

Note: This Maintenance Schedule and Prompt list is based on information contained in the Honda VTX 1800 Maintenance Manual as well as from posts by senior VTX contributors. Several excellent sources are available for added reference, including reading and video materials at:

http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?77-How-To-Step-by-Step
http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/
http://www.vtxcafe.com/
http://northstarriders.com/wordpress/?cat=6 (How-To Videos)

Although maintenance habits vary, all key safety factors and fluids should be checked prior to each ride and given a thorough inspection on a regular basis. Given the lifespan of today’s synthetic oils, engine oil and final drive oils many not need to be replaced earlier than every 6-8 thousand miles, depending on wear. As clutch and brake fluid degrades with time, as well as with use, it should be changed every two years or so, irrespective of mileage. Coolant should be flushed and refilled every two years, on average, as well. Spark plugs should be replaced every 8-16 thousand miles or regularly cleaned, with their gaps checked and replaced when the points show extended wear; while plugs can last over 30k miles, their charging integrity diminishes over time. Since tire wear accelerates when air pressure is kept low, a routine pressure load of 40-42 psi cold is recommended.

Lastly, it should be noted that the de-smog and ground-fix are highly recommended as is the purchase of an Official Honda Service manual for the year of the bike. Regular waxing and light detailing, before and after each ride, helps maintain the body integrity and serves as an opportunity to eyeball the entire bike.

The following links are on the internet for two Honda 1800 Service Manuals, a 1300 Service Manual and the 1800 Parts Catalogue. While viewing these on-line may be acceptable the manuals are Copyrighted materials with All Rights Reserved.

Before Each Ride/Weekly

1. Look over the bike; spot-check fasteners, cables and hoses
2. Check brake lights, turn signals, headlamps and horn
3. Check oil and coolant levels (weekly)
4. Check tires and air pressure (weekly/every two weeks)
5. Depress clutch and brake levers to check resistance
6. Wipe down bike with detailer or spray polish

Before Each Long Ride

1. Look over the bike; spot-check fasteners, cables and hoses
2. Check brake lights, turn signals, headlamps and horn; check headlight aim
3. Check oil and coolant levels
4. Check tires, air pressure and valve stems
5. Depress clutch and brake levers to check resistance
6. Check/re-juice battery by placing overnight on Battery Tender
7. Wipe down bike with detailer or spray polish
8. Check flat repair, tool and emergency gear (rain gear, safety vest)
9. Inspect helmet, boots, jacket, glove, earplugs, goggles/helmet visor, and safety gear
10. Review/check medication, phone, chargers and extra travel supplies
11. Leave route and itinerary information

At Every Tire Change

1. Inspect wheel bearings
2. Inspect flange bearing in rear wheel
3. Ensure moly paste was used to lubricate the drive splines
4. Replace tube for spoked tires
5. Verify pinch bolt torque
6. Verify axle bolt torque
7. Verify correct adjustment of front wheel spacing

Spring Cleanup (adjust for items completed per Maintenance schedule or for Winter Storage)

1. Clean and re-oil air filter
2. Add Techron to gas (2 oz. per full tank, over next 3 fill-ups)
3. Check oil level
4. Closely inspect each tire and stem; inspect spin, pressurize to 40-42 psi cold
5. Tighten battery cables and check battery charge or replace as needed
6. Check coolant level
7. Check brake fluid color and level; check and hand foot levers and inspect each caliper function
8. Check clutch fluid color and level; check lever operation
9. Check head and tail lights, turn signals and horn
10. Check headlight aim
11. Inspect/Replace final drive oil
12. Lube gear shifter pivot bolts
13. Clean starter switch
14. Check for wobble/‘slop’ in the steering neck bearings
15. Check tire repair, tool kit, rain gear and other roadside safety equipment
16. Inspect helmet, jacket, boots, gloves and riding gear
17. Clean and wax bike

Winter Storage

Winter/long-term storage concerns are directly related to the length of time the bike remains idle and the extent of exposure to the elements; the suggested routine is for extended storage and should be tailored to meet one’s needs based on the length of time not ridden. This is an extensive prompt list that covers putting the bike up for a few weeks (items #1-10) through long-term storage (#1-16). Modify practice based length of storage and condition of storage area.

1. Top the tank off to the brim with fresh gas and mix in a gas stabilizer, such as SeaFoam.
2. Clean (wash and wax) the bike, including frame, tins, wheels and windshield.
3. Change the Final Drive and Engine Oil and Filter now/per schedule, instead of waiting for the new riding season.
4. Clean and re-oil the Air Filter (or do as part of Spring clean-up)
5. Use a leather cleaner or preserver on seat, bags and rubber hoses.
6. Put the bike on blocks or a stand; otherwise, store the bike on dry flooring material (unless the floor is sealed). Get as much weight as possible off the tires.
7. Keep the bike stored in a dry area, away from items that use high levels of electricity (hot water heater, dryer); the ozone created dry-rots tires more quickly. If dampness is present, keep open cans or bags (pillow cases) of silica gel crystals (cat litter) nearby.
8. If rodents can access the bike hang moth balls or other vermin deterrents near bike chassis and plug pipes and air box with steel wool to prevent nesting.
9. Use a Battery Tender or Trickle Charger if storing in a vented, fire safe area. If a closed storage area or for long-term storage remove the battery (negative terminal first). If the battery is not sealed, fill it with distilled water up to the marks and store in warm area. Do not start the bike periodically (unless riding for more than a half hour) as this increases condensation in the engine and may drain the battery’s charging potential.
10. Cover the bike with a breathable cover or a soft cotton bed sheet.
11. Check all nuts and bolts, fluids, lubricate cables and switchgears.
12. Spray engine and undercarriage with a light silicone or engine fogging oil; avoid spraying hoses and rubber parts. Apply a thin coat of oil, stainless steel spray or WD40 on chrome.
13. Spray fork lowers with WD40, Marvel Mystery Oil, or engine oil, hold the front brake and bounce your weight on the front of the bike to work the front suspension. This will help prevent the rubber fork seal from drying and protect the exposed metal slider
14. Remove spark plugs; fill each cylinder with a teaspoon of engine oil, Marvel Mystery Oil or two-stroke oil. Screw the plugs back in hand tight; do not attach plug wires as a reminder to clean plugs in the spring. Use the starter to turn the engine over a couple seconds to distribute the oil throughout the cylinders
15. Periodically, operate controls throughout the winter and roll wheels (if on the ground) to a different tire position, if possible. Keep tire pressure up. To minimize tire flat-spotting, the bike can be stored on blocks under the frame. An alternative is to store the bike after the tires have been warmed. They may also be overinflate by a few pounds after the bike has been stored but you must remember to reduce the air when you pull the bike out of storage. If access to the storage area is limited, place some closed cell (the white stuff) styro-foam (1 inch thick or 2 inch better) under the tires for cushion.
16. To reduce the effects of moisture on long-term storage, get a few pounds of silica gel particles (non-clay cat litter) and place some in a couple of old pillowcases. These work like the moisture sacks you use for shipping or storing of cameras and such; they absorb excess moisture in the air and release it when the air has warmed up. If you take the bags and let them dry each summer for a few hours in the sun, they'll be fresh as new and can be reused year after year.

General Maintenance Prompt List by Mileage

As a summary document adjustments should be made based on personal preferences and riding habits.

Key: (C) = Clean; (I) = Inspect; and (A) = Adjust

Every 4,000 to 8,000 miles (unless completed during Spring Cleanup or Winter Storage work)

Every 4,000

____Brakes (I): fluid color and level; foot and hand levers; calipers for ease of function
____Brake Pads (I): inspect wear indicators
____Brake Light Bulb (I)
____Clutch: check fluid color and level; check lever operation
____Clutch Kill Switch (I): check wear on plunger at lever
____Starter Button (C): clean contacts in cut-off switch, at throttle housing
____Emergency On/Off Switch (I)
____Headlight/Headlight Aim (I)
____Turn Signals Bulbs (I)
____Battery (I): examine that battery is holding charge
____Engine Oil (I); unless otherwise indicated, check with bike off and upright
____Engine Idle Speed (I); VTX 1800: ideal idle speed at 900-950 rpms
____Spark Plugs (I)
____Final Drive Oil (R): use Hypoid shaft gear oil 75W-90 or 80W-90; replace drain plug crush washer (14 mm.); inspect Fill Plug O-ring (OEM # 91302-001-020)
____Gear Shifter (C): Lube pivot/linkage bolts under dust booties w/ marine grade grease
____Air Filter (C): clean and re-oil (ie. with K&N)
____Crankcase Breather (C); Secondary Air Supply System (I): unless removed
____Engine Radiator Coolant (I): inspect level at reservoir
____Water Pump (I)
____Tire Wear (I); check tread depth, sidewalls and stems
____Side Stand (I)
____ Suspension & Rear Shock Bushings (I)
____Steering Head Bearings (I); check for wobble/clicking: lock front brakes, rock bike back and forth or with bike on lift, lightly push and lift front end
____(1800) Fuel Injectors (C): add cleaner, ie Techron at 2 oz. per full tank, over next 3 fill-ups
____Hoses and wires (I)
____Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners (I): inspect overall for fastness; double check wheels
____Check flat repair, tool and emergency gear
____Inspect helmet, boots, jacket, gloves, earplugs, goggles, and safety gear


8,000 miles

____Engine Oil (R): drain warm, replace w/ 3.9 quarts; rplc both crush washers (12 mm)
____Engine Oil Filter (R): hand-tighten; ie. Purolator PL14612 (2.5 inch) or longer PL14610 (3.5 in); Mobil 1M1-1108 (2.25 in) or longer Mobil 1M1-110 (3.25 in)
____Engine Idle Speed (I/A); set idle speed at 900-950 rpms
____Brake Fluid (R): use 1 pint synthetic DOT 3 & 4 ( ie.Valvoline /clear)
____Brake Pads (I): inspect wear indicators; check ease of caliper piston movement
____Brake Pads (I): inspect wear indicators; check levers and calipers for operation
____Brake Light Bulb (I)
____Brake Light Switch (I)
____Clutch Fluid (R): use 1 pint synthetic DOT 3 & 4 (ie. Valvoline/clear); checker lever
____Clutch Kill Switch (I): check wear on plunger at lever
____Starter Button (C): clean contacts in cut-off switch, at throttle housing
____Emergency On/Off Switch (I)
____Headlight/Headlight Aim (I)
____Turn Signals Bulbs (I)
____Battery (I): examine that battery is holding charge; tighten battery cables
____Engine Oil (I); unless otherwise indicated, check with bike off and upright
____Engine Idle Speed (I); VTX 1800: ideal idle speed at 900-950 rpms
____Valve/Lash Adjustment (A)
____ Spark Plugs (R); ie. IFR5L11 or Bosch 4419 iridium tips
____Final Drive Oil (R): use Hypoid shaft gear oil 75W-90 or 80W-90; replace drain plug crush washer (14 mm.); inspect Fill Plug O-ring (OEM # 91302-001-020)
____Gear Shifter (C): Lube pivot/linkage bolts under dust booties w/ marine grade grease
____Air Filter (C): clean and re-oil (ie. with K&N)
____Crankcase Breather (C); Secondary Air Supply System (I): unless removed
____Engine Radiator Coolant (R): use silicate free only; inspect level at reservoir
____Water Pump (I)
____Tire Wear (I); check tread depth, sidewalls and stems
____Side Stand (I)
____ Suspension & Rear Shock Bushings (I)
____Steering Head Bearings (I); check for wobble/clicking: lock front brakes, rock bike back and forth or with bike on lift, lightly push and lift front end
____(1800) Fuel Injectors (C): add cleaner, ie Techron at 2 oz. per full tank, over next 3 fill-ups
____Hoses and wires (I)
____Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners (I): inspect overall for fastness; double check wheels
____Check flat repair, tool and emergency gear
____Inspect helmet, boots, jacket, gloves, earplugs, goggles, and safety gear


Every 16,000 to 24,000 miles (in addition to 8k prompt items)

____All 8K prompt items
____Radiator Coolant (R; if not done at 8k)
____Spark Plugs (R; if not done at 8k)); ie.IFR5L11 or Bosch 4419 iridium tips
____Brake Pads (R)
____Turn Signal Bulbs (R); stock: GE 1157)
____Tail Light Bulb (R); stock: P21/5W 12 V
____Headlight (R): 9003
____Front Fork Oil (I/R)
____Throttle Cable (A): Lubricate/Adjust
____Rear Shock bushings (I/R)
____Radiator Grill (C)
____Radiator Cap (C)
____Engine Fan (I)
____Axle Bolts (A): loosen and retighten
____Fork Pinch Bolts (A): loosen and retighten

40,000 miles ____Coil spark plug wire (R)

 

[robin jack]

I was also looking for this it such a useful information for me I must thank for this now I can easily adjust my tank and can service this I also looking for some information about filter changing. How I can change my bike filter anyone can explain about it?

 

[Chicago-Spike]

I was also looking for this it such a useful information for me I must thank for this now I can easily adjust my tank and can service this I also looking for some information about filter changing. How I can change my bike filter anyone can explain about it?

Which filter? Oil, air, or fuel; Click link below
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?207259-Coolant-Engine-Oil-amp-Filters-and-Final-Drive-Oil

 

[Chicago-Spike]

bump