This issue started about 3-4 years ago, and as I am not a DIY kind of guy, have had multiple mechanics attempt to troubleshoot. I think my current mechanic is throwing in the towel. The issue: when cruising above 60 or 65, the bike shuts itself off. I have gotten used to cruising in right hand lanes and constantly on the lookout for a good shoulder. Once I come to a stop, I turn the bike off, turn it back on, then am back on the road. This may occur every 5 minutes or so, not at all, or sometimes once right away, then cruises for an hour or more, then starts happening, or not. My current mechanic is throwing in the towel as she does not want to keep charging me for things that do not work. I printed out all the ground fix pages I found on the VTX Cafe lists, she has replaced a few parts, issue remains. By happenstance, I ran into 2 different auto mechanics on the same weekend, and when the subject came up, without missing a beat, they both said to look for and replace relays. The only one I could find that sounded like it might be related is the stop engine relay, which I am going to look into. Another mention was to check the kickstand wiring, in case something thinks it is down. As I said, I am clueless about mechanic-ing, but do enjoy riding, and I enjoy the 1800 most. I am in the hopes that SOMEONE may have a different or new idea to explore, thanks.
2002 1800C intermittently shuts down while cruising
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2002 VTX1800R Lowered 2" Rhinehardt Flush Cut, Brown County X with Flames Air Box Cover
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Do you have a dynojet programmer on it? If so disable or bypass it and see how bike runs. They go bad. Do ground fixs. and clean and lube shifter. (different issue but a point of maintenance). Have a great Fourth.
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Has the Ground Fix been done????
You may not be a DIY type person, now is the time to learn.
One connector has had a few issues.
Any number of places that can have an intermittent open from the Kill switch to the relays (control)
or the inline Red/white(stripe) to the Black/White(stripe) the FI side of relay to ECM/Injectors/Coils/ fuel pump.
You can pull most all the IGN switch connector, the 30 amp fuses, pull out the relays, spray some contact cleaner (or wd40) on the pins.
Verify the Camshaft position sensor wires are good.
Two maybe loose crimps or slightly cocked connector.
Loose battery connections.
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Can you come up with any situations when it happens??
A bump, turn, movement on the seat?
A few weird shorts near a cable harness clip. Push/pull wires, cable harness to see
if that creates a problem. Open the headlight bucket, the 9 pin Red connector is
for the Right side switches. Open it, inspect pins, spray on the pins, close connector.
Verified latch is locked.
You may not be a DIY type person, now is the time to learn.
One connector has had a few issues.
Melted main wiring… | Bareass Choppers Motorcycle Tech Pages
I just thought I'd throw this out there as a "service bulletin" for anyone interested. I took a bike in recently for work because the fuel pump would not prime. I suspected the pump was fine, everything else on the bike was in working order and the bike was intermittently shutting down while out on
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or the inline Red/white(stripe) to the Black/White(stripe) the FI side of relay to ECM/Injectors/Coils/ fuel pump.
You can pull most all the IGN switch connector, the 30 amp fuses, pull out the relays, spray some contact cleaner (or wd40) on the pins.
Verify the Camshaft position sensor wires are good.
Two maybe loose crimps or slightly cocked connector.
Loose battery connections.
1800 diagrams for Charging, Starting and FI system
General info on 1800. 1800C uses incandescent bulbs as indicators. 1800 C/F had an extra 20 amp fuse added in 2005 (2005+) 02-04 C has dual filament front Run/Turn Signal bulbs = 1st Gen with 22 pin ECM connectors, 3 terminal TS flasher. 02-03 R/S has dual filament front Run/Turn Signal bulbs =...
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Can you come up with any situations when it happens??
A bump, turn, movement on the seat?
A few weird shorts near a cable harness clip. Push/pull wires, cable harness to see
if that creates a problem. Open the headlight bucket, the 9 pin Red connector is
for the Right side switches. Open it, inspect pins, spray on the pins, close connector.
Verified latch is locked.
Do you have a Cobra fuel manger installed ? My 1800 did the same thing as yours. Bike would shut down on its own, thought I had accidentally hit the kill switch as I had gloves on that day. The second time it shut down about 15 miles down on the Interstate, I knew something was amiss. Pulled into the nearest Honda dealer had'em remove it.....problem solved. This issue can get you killed !
Not sure about the dynojet, will have to investigate, I think it once had a Cobra furl manager, but think it was all (or mostly removed), will have to investigate that as well. Thanks to all that replied, will continue to investigate, am not ready to give up on it yet.
As far as when it happens, prior to Fathers Day this year, it happened ONLY in 5th gear, and sometime after I passed 60 mph. On Fathers Day, (I had for awhile been riding only in 4th gear once up to speed), it happened in 4th gear. I am not aware of any other circumstances that caused this to occur.
"Once I come to a stop, I turn the bike off, turn it back on, then am back on the road."
My money is on the Bank Angle Sensor since the problem clears (temporary I know) when the key is turned off then back on.
I would start by unplugging the 3 pin connector at the BAS. Jumper the white/black to the red/orange then turn on the ignition. The engine stop relay should click. This relay is under the right side cover. Then take your bike for a ride.
My money is on the Bank Angle Sensor since the problem clears (temporary I know) when the key is turned off then back on.
I would start by unplugging the 3 pin connector at the BAS. Jumper the white/black to the red/orange then turn on the ignition. The engine stop relay should click. This relay is under the right side cover. Then take your bike for a ride.
I finally found someone that is familiar with wiring to help me with this, however, we understood two totally different things from your post. For clarification, my thought was thought find this connector, jumper the wires, try the ignition, then remove jumper wire. (Hoping you hear the "click" sound). HIS take on it was, take the 3-pin connector apart, insert a jumper wire, then put it all back together and leave that way? Is one of us on the correct path, or is there a 3rd possibility? Thanks.
The jumper I suggested needs to stay in place during the time you're testing the bike. That way you can either pin the blame on the bank angle sensor or keep looking for another source of the problem you're having. Once you determine that it's the bank angle sensor you can troubleshoot the device. Is it properly mounted to the battery box? There's an "up" arrow that needs to be verified. Are there any loose wires at the connector? It's up to you if you want to put the BAS back in service or leave the jumper in place.
First, thank you Sojourner for your time and feedback. Please let me know if I am asking to much.....So my electrical person could not tell if the jumper he made up was making a good connection or not, so he removed the two wires from the harness, taped them together, and plugged the harness back in so it was still making a ground connection. However, when he does that, the bike will not start. When we turn the key, we as yet have never heard the mentioned "click", but the bike will turn over but never start. The only way it starts is if all 3 wires are in the harness and the harness is then connected. Not sure if we are overlooking something obvious? He was able to find suggestions on making a jumper on line, but each time you turn the key, there is no sound of the fuel pump coming on like it does when the wires are all connected. Not from this post, but a car mechanic suggested replacing relays, but your suggestion seemed like a better option to start with, just not sure if we are missing something in our connections? Thanks.
Ah, I see what you mean. The red/orange is looking for a ground in order to pull in the engine stop relay. Normally the BAS would give that to the R/O and complete the circuit thru the green. When the BAS is leaned too far the internal contact opens and the engine stop relay is disconnected. The white/black going to the BAS is providing a holding circuit for the now open contact in the BAS and the engine won't start even if the bike is upright again, unless the ignition key is turned off and everything resets. Thanks for catching my mistake.
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