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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New member, thanks in advance for any help.

I have 2006 vtx1300C that I recently put cobra speedster slash down, cobra powrpro air cleaner and a dyna jet kit. I have a few issues going on.

after all was installed by a bike shop and he used a dyno as well as test ride. the bike falls on its face and will barley stay running. (don't worry the bike is going back, he contacted dynojet and order a 60 jet because the kit came with 55/65 jet.)

anyways, it has a lot of loud popping on decel. the bike is sluggish on take off and when you give it more throttle it falls on its face. I am thinking about going with the factory pro jet kit if the issue can not be resolved with the dyno jet kit. but would like some opinions on why its having the issues and where to start with trying to fix the issue.

he told me that he put the slow jet back in, and the 65 jet back in but that is all that I know. I do apologize for lack of knowledge. when I picked the bike up I was in a hurry to take care of family issues going on and did not get all the info.

thanks again
 

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Dynojet kit - usually an extremely rich low speed jet and a 180-200 main jets.
Their jet numbering does not correlate to Keihin jet size.
OEM - Keihin #55 low speed, #195 main jet
Straight pipes require blocking off PAIR valve.
PAIR usually removed.
Air injected into exhaust port to ignite residual air/fuel.
A plate can be used at the reed valve cover.
I put a bolt in my reed cover hose bib, decel pops stopped.
I hope they used new exhaust gaskets also.
Any air leak will cause popping.
 

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My suggestion is to get the Factory Pro jet kit, and try my dyno tuned settings. If you don't already have the Glen's VTX Garage permanent AF screw (I have the 5"). And as said above, the pair valve block off plates. My bike runs perfectly at all speeds and at all ambient air temperatures. The only thing I haven't tried is a different elevation (which might require tweaking of the AF screw). This setting pulls hard, but is not the most fuel efficient. I hit reserve at 120 miles (with a gps verified miles).

Factory Pro Jet kit (all stage kits are the same, add the optional 60 pilot jet):

Glen's VTX Garage:

My Dyno Tuned settings (click for full image):
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank you guys, I will definitely try yalls recommendations. I wanted to go with factory pro to begin with but the shop I used wasn't a authorized dealer for factory, only dyno jet..... I should have bought the kit myself and took it with me but I bought all my upgrades through him so it was easier.. JPT I appreciate the dyno settings. I will order the factory pro and start with your settings. I have not removed the pair valve yet so that will be coming next.
 

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thank you guys, I will definitely try yalls recommendations. I wanted to go with factory pro to begin with but the shop I used wasn't a authorized dealer for factory, only dyno jet..... I should have bought the kit myself and took it with me but I bought all my upgrades through him so it was easier.. JPT I appreciate the dyno settings. I will order the factory pro and start with your settings. I have not removed the pair valve yet so that will be coming next.
FYI. My needle setting is 5.5, the 0.5 is a #4 washer under the E clip effectively raising it half a level. I brought my washers, and jet kit with me to my dyno tuner, I brought a bunch of extra jets (I ordered extras from jetsrus (link below), I got a couple smaller and a couple larger of both jets. Since a tuner has to take apart the carb apart each time, and leave the tank off, he would have charged me more if he had to stop and pick the job back up because of the need to order more jets. He charged me $350 for the dyno tune.

I debated spending days/weeks fine tuning using the guides on these forums, none of them would have lead to my current tune. I dropped my bike off, and picked it up the next day with a perfect tune for my bike. If I had to do it again, I still would have brought it to my tuner. My personal believe is, these online guides are a good way to get it "close enough" but there really is no way to get your bike perfect without an exhaust Air/Fuel sniffer. Well, maybe you can luck out and get it perfect, but without the sniffer how would you know? I like precise measurements. You can get it close enough without a dyno tune that your spark plugs look good, and still not have the perfect tune.

Jets:
They seem to have washers, "Needle shim most Keihin 3.2mm ID x 7mm OD 0125A2M3.2 009-396 10 pieces". Their site was crappy before the pandemic, but I can assure you the jets I got from them were perfect, they are the only site that I found that sells needles individually for our bike. I make no guarantees on their business now during the pandemic (or after, if people read this after today).

You also can pick up the #4 Washer at Home Depot or Lowes. You only need 1 on the bike (and a few extra for when it falls, rolls under your bike and disappears to the engine Gods).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
on the pair valve removal. can I buy the block off plates and just plug the necessary hoses that go to it and leave it sitting there incase I ever go back stock (MOST LIKELY WILL NEVER HAPPEN) and that way I don't cross my hoses up.
 

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on the pair valve removal. can I buy the block off plates and just plug the necessary hoses that go to it and leave it sitting there incase I ever go back stock (MOST LIKELY WILL NEVER HAPPEN) and that way I don't cross my hoses up.
Just put all the removed parts in a box, you can go back later if you want. Part of the nice part of this mod is being able to remove and free up space. If you get the block off plates WITH the dimple, it will make switching back a very easy job.

I have all my parts in a box, this is exactly what I did, but I see no reason to go back (unless I decide to sell to someone in CA, and they want it).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
awesome thanks guys I am taking the bike to shop again for him to try some jets he ordered from dyno jet, if they do not work I am ordering the factory pro jet kit. starting with 215 main and 58 or 60 pilot needle 3 clip and A/F at 2 1/4 to start from there. thanks for all your help. I will give update as I get more info.
 

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When you go with factory pro and the initial setup, put the needle clip on the 4th notch from the blunt end. Your air box is pretty open and it will be lean at the 3rd notch. Also go with the 60 slow jet. Mine has a very open box, lots of air: 210 main, 60 slow jet, needle on the 4th notch, 2+ a little on the a/f. Runs pretty smooth, gets average mpg around 45 depending on my right wrist and where I'm riding.
Been out 4 times in December: heated gear from Gerbing :: The leader in Heated Gear Technology
And here's a very good thread on tuning the 1300 carb: carb and what affects what - Page 4
Pretty much your decision. It's just that the Factory Pro kit is so easy to set up, maintain, change as you make changes to the bike.
(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When you go with factory pro and the initial setup, put the needle clip on the 4th notch from the blunt end. Your air box is pretty open and it will be lean at the 3rd notch. Also go with the 60 slow jet. Mine has a very open box, lots of air: 210 main, 60 slow jet, needle on the 4th notch, 2+ a little on the a/f. Runs pretty smooth, gets average mpg around 45 depending on my right wrist and where I'm riding.
Been out 4 times in December: heated gear from Gerbing :: The leader in Heated Gear Technology
And here's a very good thread on tuning the 1300 carb: carb and what affects what - Page 4
Pretty much your decision. It's just that the Factory Pro kit is so easy to set up, maintain, change as you make changes to the bike.
(y)
SUMDATX i appreciate that info, half the reason i posted is so yall can see what i have and hopefully help me get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
so the other jet my bike guy ordered will be here tomorrow. since he is going to fix the bike at no further cost i am going to take it to him tomorrow and let him work on it some more. but if he cant get it with the dynojet kit then i am going factory pro like i should have from the beginning
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok guys update. got the bike back, i did the pair valve removal and plugged the small line like ik
suppose to as well and the bug line that goes to the air box. but now i can not keep the bike running without holding the throttle a little bit. my guess is the idle isn’t set right.

problem number 2 is when i ride the bike is sluggish through second when give it
more gas. thinking my main jet is to small.
i’m just trying to figure out why i need to do. i will adjust the idle screw a little and see if i can get it to run in its own. any help is greatly appreciated
 

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What jets do you have in it???

My suggestion, take off cobra powrpro air cleaner and a dyna jet kit.
You have a few issues going on.. Remove it..
Put back the stock air box and OEM jets back in.
If you give a quick twist to the throttle, see any slide valve activity.
What about the main jet and jet needle set??
Is the slide valve diaphragm and the o-ring in correct position?
Review the carb pieces.
MR VTX CARB 101 Carb Cleaning 101

Step #9 is remove the vacuum hose, that is the air cutoff valve(ACO).
Minimum vacuum setup: Intake manifold is the source>>goes to a Tee, one port of the Tee to ACO,
the remaining port goes to the petcock (Vacuum controlled fuel flow)(safety feature).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What jets do you have in it???

My suggestion, take off cobra powrpro air cleaner and a dyna jet kit.
You have a few issues going on.. Remove it..
Put back the stock air box and OEM jets back in.
If you give a quick twist to the throttle, see any slide valve activity.
What about the main jet and jet needle set??
Is the slide valve diaphragm and the o-ring in correct position?
Review the carb pieces.
MR VTX CARB 101 Carb Cleaning 101

Step #9 is remove the vacuum hose, that is the air cutoff valve(ACO).
Minimum vacuum setup: Intake manifold is the source>>goes to a Tee, one port of the Tee to ACO,
the remaining port goes to the petcock (Vacuum controlled fuel flow)(safety feature).
so I let a shop do the work for me, I know he is using the dyno jet kit. 60 slow jet is all I know. I did the pair valve block and blocked the small line coming from the T you are talking about as well as the big air line that goes to the air box from the pair valve. I am going to go home tonight and play with the idle setting see if I can get the bike to run without holding the throttle. the top end of the bike runs pretty good and will be complete once I get the slower side taken care of. I am seriously thinking about ordering the factory pro, cause the dyna jet has been the headache this whole time. thanks for your suggestions. ill give yall more info as I dig into it tonight
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok guys update!! I bought my factory pro stage 1 installed the 58 slow jet, 215 main, AF on 3rd notch. Pair valve removal. Bike runs strong but in neutral if you pull hard on throttle it’s bogs for a second and then pulls same in second gear but not as long as sitting in neutral.
What’s y’all’s thoughts?
Raise needle height to 4 slot? I have a 60 slow jet as well but went off what most people were using (58)
 

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Is Accelerator pump squirting a shot of gas into carb throat??
You can check that with engine off.
Slide valve diaphragm okay, any holes, rips?? Test with a light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is Accelerator pump squirting a shot of gas into carb throat??
You can check that with engine off.
Slide valve diaphragm okay, any holes, rips?? Test with a light.
As far as I can tell the pump is working and the diaphragm is good I pulled it yesterday when changing from dyno needle to factory pro
 
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