Honda VTX Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings,
I am looking for help with my bike. I have used this forum in the past for a number of repairs and maintenance and found it to be extremely helpful. I have not ridden this bike much over the past year and want to get it running again.
2004 1300 C with 80,000 miles.
Stock jets with Cobra Slip ones.

The bike was not running well so I pulled the carburetor to clean it and change the rubber gaskets. I did this according to Mr. VTX’s write up. I also changed the gaskets in the pet “thing.” I have not been able to get it running decent since.

It looks like I am not getting gas from the accelerator pump. It does not shoot any gas into the carb when I twist the throttle. I took it apart again and wanted to make sure the brass rod that goes into the chamber was not clogged. Is that supposed to be clear? It was blocked and I was finally about to get something through it. I put everything back together and it is still not shooting any gas when I twist the throttle. I pulled the accelerator cap and checked the rubber gasket and made sure the holes were clear in the cap. And till nothing.

I also checked the vacuum diaphragm and did not see any holes in it.
I have checked the ecm wires for breaks.

Am I over looking something obvious?

I would appreciate any help.
Thanks in advance.
Clint
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14,807 Posts
A ball check valve allows fuel into accelerator pump.
When throttle twisted the ball check valve blocks
the intake port and forces the fuel to the discharge port
to spray a shot of fuel into the carb throat.

You can spray cleaner into the ports and verify the port to to the tube in the
carb throat.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: brettp

· Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A ball check valve allows fuel into accelerator pump.
When throttle twisted the ball check valve blocks
the intake port and forces the fuel to the discharge port
to spray a shot of fuel into the carb throat.

You can spray cleaner into the ports and verify the port to to the tube in the
carb throat.
Hans & Feet,
First, thank you for taking the time to respond.

I pulled the accelerator cap off and used a small wire to make sure the two ports were clear and they were both clear. I also was able to get the discharge port clear. Would that mean there could be something wrong with that ball check valve? Also, when I had the cap off I looked and did not see any holes in the rubble valve.

Maybe replace the accelerator pump?

Thanks again.
Clint
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14,807 Posts
Loosen the cap to the accelerator, verify fuel is in there.
Tighten screws. Manually push the accelerator rod down.
See what happens.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Checked both. Gas is flowing and there is movement from the accelerator rod.
Not sure what else to check. Maybe there is something wrong with the accelerator rod seal and I can’t see it? Or the cap?
Clint
 

· Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Could it be a bad throttle position sensor?
Clint
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14,807 Posts
Throttle Position Sensor controls Ignition Timing advance.

Last year someone posted they purchased Fuel Cutoff Valve from Allballs.
I did not know allballs had that . A carb rebuild kit for $38
26-1627 is the kit.

Accelerator pump is part of the float bowl.
Remove it , pour gas in the bowl, push the pump rod down, what happens??
Watch out for gas possibly spraying into your face.
Have you tried spraying carb cleaner into the port that goes to the spray pipe??
Follow the port to the spray pipe,give it a shot of cleaner.
if nothing comes open the throttle butterfly and shoot spray into the spray bar.
It should come out at a port at the accelerator pump area.
Diaphragm deterioration may have clogged the spray pipe...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks again for staying with me in this.

I changed the diaphragm in the pet thing and tested it for gas flow, that was good.
When I had the carb apart I used the rebuild kit. I also had a friend soak and clean the carb body when I had it all apart.
I did see a video on how to test the accelerator pump based upon what you described. I think that is my next step. And you may be correct about the diaphragm being bad as it is a 2004.

Again, I appreciate your help.
clint
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Guys, I just discovered another way to fix the accelerator pump on the 1300cc Honda (and any other similar accel pump on a carb). In my case, the diaphragm looked fine. Gaskets looked good. Wasn't any crud in float bowl but there was a bit in the accel pump reservoir under diaphragm. Anyway, I blew out the check valves with carb cleaner and air as a first attempt. I thought that worked but it actually hadn't. So I pulled the bowl off again and decided to try dripping an acid solution (muriatic acid diluted 1:1 with water) onto the bottom check valve until the active bubbling slowed down (it will never fully stop, FYI). It only took about 1-1/2 to 2 minutes for that process to be done. Then I rinsed out the reservoir under the sink with water, and then reassembled the reservoir onto the float bowl. Then I put a detergent/water solution into float bowl and manually pumped accelerator pump in my kitchen sink, and ran about 2 float bowl's worth of fluid through it. You should be able to shoot a stream of water our from the accel pump output port at top of float bowl. Then I pumped clean water through it--one or two bowl's worth. And then isopropyl alcohol--just a half bowl of that. And then pumped and shook out as much that remained as I could. Reassembled onto bike, and the damned thing WORKED LIKE A CHAMP!
This process is much easier and far less risky than trying to take apart and clean the check valves themselves, because that's like doing microsurgery.
Just be careful handling the acid, of course (beware of fumes and use eye protection and gloves), and don't leave it sitting in the reservoir for any longer than necessary, as it will slowly eat the aluminum itself. But if you do it quickly, with diluted acid, then it's fine. The acid reacts with the contaminants much more aggressively than with the metals. Rinse out any parts which have been exposed to the acid immediately afterward, as the worst thing you could do would be to leave acid in there. It would ruin the parts beyond repair.
You can get muriatic acid at any hardware store. It's sold as a pool cleaner. You need less than a teaspoon to do this operation. And remember to dilute it with water. Put a half teaspoon of water into something like a shot glass, then add a half teaspoon of acid, and that's your solution. It doesn't have to be exact. Just pay attention to the rate it reacts (via the bubbling) and keep dripping acid onto check valve and into the side ports until the bubbling slows down. Then rinse immediately.
Good luck!!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top