[benjammin062]

I have a 2002 1800vtx-c. I recently upgraded my amplifier to a1000watt system. My question is, will my stock charging system be adequate enough to sustain the extra wattage or should I add a 1 farad capacitor to compensate?

 

[rangers4u]

I have a 2002 1800vtx-c. I recently upgraded my amplifier to a1000watt system. My question is, will my stock charging system be adequate enough to sustain the extra wattage or should I add a 1 farad capacitor to compensate?

I know very little about that stuff, but I do know that the Honda VTX electrical system is already at near max capacity as it comes stock from the factory. Maybe reduce some of the loads by switching all lights to LED.

 

[DrDolittle]

I have a 2002 1800vtx-c. I recently upgraded my amplifier to a1000watt system. My question is, will my stock charging system be adequate enough to sustain the extra wattage or should I add a 1 farad capacitor to compensate?

I don't know, never done it. Are you doing this for the first time? Give us some background on the project?

https://backtothefuture.fandom.com/wiki/Flux_capacitor

 

[Chicago-Spike]

It depends on all the other electrical draws you have already like speakers, lightbars, radio, etc...... You have to add all those up and then see if it will go beyond the tiny extra the VTX gives you. Power output is around 400 watts, the bike uses around 280 watts to run. Leaving you with just 120 watts to use before you drain the battery. And that is at speeds, at idle the output is near 280 watts which is why these bikes don't charge the battery at idle speeds

 

[Harkon]

I have a 2002 1800vtx-c. I recently upgraded my amplifier to a1000watt system. My question is, will my stock charging system be adequate enough to sustain the extra wattage or should I add a 1 farad capacitor to compensate?

Not if you run the amp at full volume all of the time. Your question, re: capacitor, makes no sense. A capacitor does nothing for the sustained output of the charging system. IOW, no, it won't help.

 

[benjammin062]

I don't know, never done it. Are you doing this for the first time? Give us some background on the project?

https://backtothefuture.fandom.com/wiki/Flux_capacitor

Yes, I am doing this for the first time.

I don't know, never done it. Are you doing this for the first time? Give us some background on the project?

https://backtothefuture.fandom.com/wiki/Flux_capacitor

I don't know, never done it. Are you doing this for the first time? Give us some background on the project?

https://backtothefuture.fandom.com/wiki/Flux_capacitor

I don't know, never done it. Are you doing this for the first time? Give us some background on the project?

https://backtothefuture.fandom.com/wiki/Flux_capacitor

Yes, this is my first time. As for the project, Im installing a Dual Bluetooth stereo, backed up by 6 Pyle speakers at 350/400 watts respectfully and the amplifier I'm using is a Dual DA10004D. And it's all going into a fairing which is supported by my 2002 1800vtx-c w/30,000 miles (pictures enclosed) Any and all help would be appreciated. Thank you

T

 

[benjammin062]

Not if you run the amp at full volume all of the time. Your question, re: capacitor, makes no sense. A capacitor does nothing for the sustained output of the charging system. IOW, no, it won't help.

No it does not, but it helps sustain voltage drop, which in turn (w/the extra stored up juice the capacitor gives) helps power amplifier which the bikes charging system won't.

 

[benjammin062]

I know very little about that stuff, but I do know that the Honda VTX electrical system is already at near max capacity as it comes stock from the factory. Maybe reduce some of the loads by switching all lights to LED.

Thanks, already have.

 

[DrDolittle]

I have read lithium battery capacity is independent of discharge rate. It constantly delivers the same amount of power throughout its discharge cycle.
In lead-acid batteries, the rated capacity decreases with an increase in discharge rate.

Run your system on two?? lithium batteries?

Just something to consider.

 

[Harkon]

No it does not, but it helps sustain voltage drop, which in turn (w/the extra stored up juice the capacitor gives) helps power amplifier which the bikes charging system won't.

Sort of, but the battery in the system has that capability in spades. Here's the thing, when you put a 1000w amp in the trunk of your car and are driving enough speaker to shake the ground, then you cable it with #6AWG or bigger to minimize the effective loss due to current surge. Then you'll want a big capacitor to keep the amp from clipping. Because your battery is no further away from your amp than a capacitor would be, there's little benefit. Neither your battery or charging system are up to driving a 1000W amplifier at those sorts of volume levels. Remember a car will have a 100A or bigger charging system. Your bike has nothing close to that. Your battery is a fraction of the size.

All of this assumes a quality 1000W (for real) amp. There's a lot of cheap junk out there offers a fraction of what they say it will. Driving more will result in clipping, no matter the supply because the internals are incapable. They give 1000w in theory, but in practice they can't ever do it cleanly.

Honestly, 1000w on a motorcycle is way more than what makes sense. Both for practicality and logistically. I'd expect electrical issues. Let's remember though, that the amp power consumption is largely dependent on how loud you crank it.

 

[benjammin062]

I have read lithium battery capacity is independent of discharge rate. It constantly delivers the same amount of power throughout its discharge cycle.
In lead-acid batteries, the rated capacity decreases with an increase in discharge rate.

Run your system on two?? lithium batteries?

Just something to consider.

It is something to consider, but expensive if we're talking about 12v motorcycle batteries.

 

[benjammin062]

Sort of, but the battery in the system has that capability in spades. Here's the thing, when you put a 1000w amp in the trunk of your car and are driving enough speaker to shake the ground, then you cable it with #6AWG or bigger to minimize the effective loss due to current surge. Then you'll want a big capacitor to keep the amp from clipping. Because your battery is no further away from your amp than a capacitor would be, there's little benefit. Neither your battery or charging system are up to driving a 1000W amplifier at those sorts of volume levels. Remember a car will have a 100A or bigger charging system. Your bike has nothing close to that. Your battery is a fraction of the size.

All of this assumes a quality 1000W (for real) amp. There's a lot of cheap junk out there offers a fraction of what they say it will. Driving more will result in clipping, no matter the supply because the internals are incapable. They give 1000w in theory, but in practice they can't ever do it cleanly.

Honestly, 1000w on a motorcycle is way more than what makes sense. Both for practicality and logistically. I'd expect electrical issues. Let's remember though, that the amp power consumption is largely dependent on how loud you crank it.

Although the amp is rated @1,000 watts peak power, it's out-put is 240 RMS.

 

[Harkon]

Although the amp is rated @1,000 watts peak power, it's out-put is 240 RMS.

Thanks, that's common, yet an important distinction. Is there a current rating on the amp itself? Just guessing, you'd need a continuous 25 to 30A at full volume. Your lights are your biggest draw. Your headlight at 55W (65W high beam) and your marker lights at about 10W ea.
Here's a rough list;

Item	Peak draw	Usage
Headlight (high beam)	65 watts	Intermittent
Headlight (low beam)	55 watts	Constant
License plate light	Five watts	Constant
Brake light	20 watts	Intermittent
Tail light	15 watts	Constant
Instrument Cluster	Three watts	Constant
ECU/ECM	25 watts	Constant
Fuel pump	60 watts	Constant
Cooling fan	60 watts	Usually intermittent during winter months
Ignition	50 watts	Constant
Horn	45 watts	Intermittent

The system can output 364W @ 5000rpm. Less as rpm diminishes. You'll need reserve to actually charge the battery. Again, your amp will use something in line with where the volume is at. Keep it on 11 and your battery will be dead . Still, it's a lot of amp for a bike.

 

[Chicago-Spike]

No, your VTX will not sustain the battery with that much stuff on it. As said, you can add another battery to run just the stereo system and then charge that with a battery charger when you stop. Or, you can buy a bike that has the capacity to run all those extras. On the subject, there is no upgrade alternator to produce more power.
You ride it like that, eventually your system will drain the power and the bike will stall. EFI needs power to keep the fuel pump going

 

[Harkon]

No, your VTX will not sustain the battery with that much stuff on it. As said, you can add another battery to run just the stereo system and then charge that with a battery charger when you stop. Or, you can buy a bike that has the capacity to run all those extras. On the subject, there is no upgrade alternator to produce more power.
You ride it like that, eventually your system will drain the power and the bike will stall. EFI needs power to keep the fuel pump going

Exactly. Another consideration is that when you draw the system voltage below 14.5V for an extended period of time you are also drawing excessive current for an extended period of time. Your regulator, normally goes between periods of high current draw and normal current draw. This helps modulate the temperature in the stator with design specs. Continuous overcurrent builds a lot of heat in the stator, definitely limiting it's life. It is also excessive for the rectifier and you can expect limited life there as well. The regulator portion of the R&R though, should last forever.

 

[benjammin062]

I have a 2002 1800vtx-c. I recently upgraded my amplifier to a1000watt system. My question is, will my stock charging system be adequate enough to sustain the extra wattage or should I add a 1 farad capacitor to compensate?

Thanks, that's common, yet an important distinction. Is there a current rating on the amp itself? Just guessing, you'd need a continuous 25 to 30A at full volume. Your lights are your biggest draw. Your headlight at 55W (65W high beam) and your marker lights at about 10W ea.
Here's a rough list;

Item	Peak draw	Usage
Headlight (high beam)	65 watts	Intermittent
Headlight (low beam)	55 watts	Constant
License plate light	Five watts	Constant
Brake light	20 watts	Intermittent
Tail light	15 watts	Constant
Instrument Cluster	Three watts	Constant
ECU/ECM	25 watts	Constant
Fuel pump	60 watts	Constant
Cooling fan	60 watts	Usually intermittent during winter months
Ignition	50 watts	Constant
Horn	45 watts	Intermittent

The system can output 364W @ 5000rpm. Less as rpm diminishes. You'll need reserve to actually charge the battery. Again, your amp will use something in line with where the volume is at. Keep it on 11 and your battery will be dead . Still, it's a lot of amp for a bike.

The amp itself has 2-25a. I'm holding of on the capacitor and installing larger guage wires (to the amp, stereo and speakers) i will keep you informed on the progress of this project. Thank you for your help.

 

[benjammin062]

I would like to thank everyone who took the time in replying to my question. I'm still putting everything together and will keep y'all posted on the outcome. Thank you