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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best starter solenoid to buy to replace the OEM one?

I've read a lot of threads on this topic, and people have used or recommended a range of solenoids including from snowplows, cars, lawnmowers, tractors, etc. Some suggested solenoids bolt right in, others need modifications for different reasons.

More than one person has said the starter motor will draw more than 100 amps.

This post especially has my attention:
"the 350 amps were for about the first 2 seconds and leveled off to 220 amp continuous after that".
FROM: http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/6-vtx-1800-tech-board/305968-starter-solenoid-sticking.html

Question one: If the starter motor draws 350 amps, even briefly, and then 220 amps afterward, doesn't it make sense to have a solenoid that is rated for at least 350 amps?

Question two: What specific solenoid (part number, with a link to where to buy would be great) will work with no or very little modification?

As always, thanks in-advance for useful answers!
 

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most does not believe

I am the one that did the measurements.. many years ago..

go OEM.. or get the old type Ford fender mount solenoid,, its for the 429 engine..

if you MIND your battery. no solenoid replacement is needed.

my solenoid is original .. at 13 years and 79,000 miles.
 

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The reason the starter solenoids die is because of bad batteries 99% of the time. Check your battery every year at NAPA or Autozone have them load test it and replace it when it doesn't test well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
"... the green wire connected to it is part of the safety system to kill the engine on the bike...the kick stand and clutch if I remember right.

You could use the un-modified Ford solenoid, just don't connect the green wire. You'll lose the safety feature.... "

Questions regarding using the un-modified version:
(1) The "solenoid modification" of a Duralast F496 starter solenoid was written for use on a 1800F - will it work the same on a 1800C or is there some difference in the C wiring?
(2) Was Bert1153 correct that the kick stand and clutch safety feature (and only that feature) will be lost by using the un-modified version?
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P.S. - FROM - CHUCK_VTX F
or use 1/4 inch nylon nuts and bolts... and a strip of rubber.. isolate Ford solenoid body from any metal on bike.

Do I understand correctly that instead of doing the lengthy description of the modification, that only a nylon nuts/bolts and rubber to isolate the solenoid is necessary?

Thanks!
 

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Questions regarding using the un-modified version:
(1) The "solenoid modification" of a Duralast F496 starter solenoid was written for use on a 1800F - will it work the same on a 1800C or is there some difference in the C wiring?
Safety feature is the same for All VTX.

(2) Was Bert1153 correct that the kick stand and clutch safety feature (and only that feature) will be lost by using the un-modified version?
Yes.
The safety Ground line will be wired to ground and it will crank and run in gear and with kickstand down.


You could do what Chuck did(nylon bolts and insulate relay with a rubber strip) and then connect the R/Y to the proper small terminal screw
and the G/R to the starter relay bracket.

I found a good Ford Starter Relay diagram and added to it.
 

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What is the best starter solenoid to buy to replace the OEM one?
LeeW,

I do not know what the best replacement would be.

I do know that since the fire in '15 that burned up my bike and the subsequent re-do that I did to it the starter solenoid acted weird. There was a direct correlation between that weirdness and the fact that I continued to use the battery that went through the fire with the bike.

The solenoid was finally taken out by that weak battery. Tried it with a new...fully charged battery...but the solenoid was toasted.

In a pinch, and being a thrifty type person (call me cheap), I went to Lowes a mile from my house and bought a riding mower universal starter solenoid and put it on the bike. It bolted straight up to the factory location and was an almost direct plug-and-play. I just had to take some electrical wiring and a couple of plug ends (like the male factory round ones) and attach a couple of female spade ends to attach the factory wiring to the male spade terminals on the universal solenoid.

Been working fine for 7 months now.

I paid $8 + tax for the universal solenoid.


John
 

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"that only a nylon nuts/bolts and rubber to isolate the solenoid is necessary?"

this method I have used maybe a hundred times over 40 years.. many bikes..
and other power equipment... that solenoid (relay) is cheap and very powerful....

prevent the body/bracket of solenoid from metal contact of vehicle

for many years.. I kept 4 or 5 in my garage all the time.. many uses..
just used one to control the power for a travel trailer tongue Power jack...
3,500 pound capable jack
 
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