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First off HELLO everybody newbie here. I just got my 1300c about a month ago since that time i've logged about 300 miles on it and it has never ran right. It idles fine it goes through the motions fine but when you accelerate hard it sputters and drops. Anything below half throttle is just fine. Also when you hold it at around 25 it sputters slightly doesn't do it at around say 45mph. If i full throttle off a light it gets to higher rpm and stutters so i shift and it accelerates hard again tell higher rpm, same on freeway going 70 i wot and it just stays at 70 and pops. I've pulled plugs they were solid black so changed them to correct gap and have ran about 3 tanks with seafoam through it. Also im only getting 32 mpg and i know that's because of this problem. Ive made sure that the choke is all the way in and also pulled the carb to see what bowl looks like it was clean no residue. Factory jets. Stock air box. Stock exhaust but does have the holes drilled in tail pipe "clayton" mode i believe. I got the glens d tool permanent mount cable and installed to 2 1/2 made bike run worse on full throttle load. Interesting things to point out is there is a hose on petcock side of carb that has regular radiator clamp on it so i'm assuming its been messed with before. Also there was a hole drilled on the very bottom of air box by the drain hose hole. And then i noticed today that the small hose that hooks on back of air box there is white gummy looking stuff oozing out of it. And another thing that i find odd is that when i choke the bike on start i keep my hand on it so after it starts i immediately start pushing it in to not foul plugs. but as soon as bike cranks i get a gush of fuel on my hand from petcock. Sorry this is so long of a story i am trying to be to cover everything.
 

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Welcome to the addiction! :mrgreen:

It sounds like you may have an issue with the petcock diaphragm and/or that line that is being held on by a radiator clamp. Those hoses don't need radiator clamps to hold them in place, so the clamp may have cut into the hose and caused a crack or tear. You'll most likely need to inspect those hoses for any cracks/tears/rotting, and then if nothing turns up there, you can move on to replacing the petcock diaphragm.

If you don't have the 1300 service manual, you can right-click this link and choose Save (or Save link as) and save it to your computer. Then you'll have it and can look at most anything for fixing your bike yourself.

CLICK HERE
 

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Check the hose on the rupight side of the petcock , look to see if it is on all the way also for cracks.
Is the whole petcock loose and can be moved left and right if so tighten the big nut above the petcock.
Could you update your profile to show city and state. You could be my neighbor or near someon that can help.
When you installed glens a/f did you get the old O ring out . Will not run properly with two in there.
Do not turn the a/f 2-1/2 turns out.
Doug
 

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Welcome jk47

Just want to say you did a good research on the VTX to know all about your trouble shooting list :thumbup:

The white gummy looking stuff coming for that hose is the crank case breather you have to clean that sometime .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Welcome to the addiction! :mrgreen:

It sounds like you may have an issue with the petcock diaphragm and/or that line that is being held on by a radiator clamp. Those hoses don't need radiator clamps to hold them in place, so the clamp may have cut into the hose and caused a crack or tear. You'll most likely need to inspect those hoses for any cracks/tears/rotting, and then if nothing turns up there, you can move on to replacing the petcock diaphragm.

If you don't have the 1300 service manual, you can right-click this link and choose Save (or Save link as) and save it to your computer. Then you'll have it and can look at most anything for fixing your bike yourself.

CLICK HERE
Thank you for the Manual helps alot! The diaphragm makes since i noticed that there is a little hole on the bottom of pet that is supposed to be there and that's were the fuel comes out. I did forget to mention to that the radiator clamps on that hose even the hose looks to be replaced by stand fuel line.

Check the hose on the rupight side of the petcock , look to see if it is on all the way also for cracks.
Is the whole petcock loose and can be moved left and right if so tighten the big nut above the petcock.
Could you update your profile to show city and state. You could be my neighbor or near someon that can help.
When you installed glens a/f did you get the old O ring out . Will not run properly with two in there.
Do not turn the a/f 2-1/2 turns out.
Doug
It was running bad before the install of glens tool. But i did make sure that washer, o-ring and spring came out and put the new ones in. I see that everybody chose to turn 2 1/2 turns out? Factory sets them at around 1 1/4 i think and everybody seems to think that's running to lean am i wrong?


Welcome jk47

Just want to say you did a good research on the VTX to know all about your trouble shooting list :thumbup:

The white gummy looking stuff coming for that hose is the crank case breather you have to clean that sometime .
I tried to be thorough :D. So the white crap is common and should be cleaned every once in awhile? I thought it had something to do with the seafoam.
 

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Thank you for the Manual helps alot! The diaphragm makes since i noticed that there is a little hole on the bottom of pet that is supposed to be there and that's were the fuel comes out. I did forget to mention to that the radiator clamps on that hose even the hose looks to be replaced by stand fuel line.



It was running bad before the install of glens tool. But i did make sure that washer, o-ring and spring came out and put the new ones in. I see that everybody chose to turn 2 1/2 turns out? Factory sets them at around 1 1/4 i think and everybody seems to think that's running to lean am i wrong?




I tried to be thorough :D. So the white crap is common and should be cleaned every once in awhile? I thought it had something to do with the seafoam.
If you didn't see it will give you more info 8)

http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?412553-Oil-in-air-filter-box
 

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Welcome
Downloading the manual is an excellent idea. I use mine quite often. You have indeed done your research. When I first got my 05 1300R I had some of the same symptoms. I replaced my vacuum lines and that problem went away. The hose clamp tells me that something was wrong and they tried to fix it with a band-aid. It certainly isn't going to hurt to replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Welcome
Downloading the manual is an excellent idea. I use mine quite often. You have indeed done your research. When I first got my 05 1300R I had some of the same symptoms. I replaced my vacuum lines and that problem went away. The hose clamp tells me that something was wrong and they tried to fix it with a band-aid. It certainly isn't going to hurt to replace them.
I was thinking about replacing vacuum lines. I did notice some weather cracking on the very end tip of a hose so i think I'll start there. Thanks for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well i went through the vacuum lines today changed them and checked the petcock diaphragm. Still runs the same just fine tell i full throttle or get in high rpm and stutters hard. Could it maybe be the valves somehow? I hear a slight clank coming from the motor haven't pin pointed it yet. Getting very frustrated think i need to take a few days away from it. :banghead:
 

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It was running bad before the install of glens tool. But i did make sure that washer, o-ring and spring came out and put the new ones in. I see that everybody chose to turn 2 1/2 turns out? Factory sets them at around 1 1/4 i think and everybody seems to think that's running to lean am i wrong?[/QUOTE] I hat is correct, lean but only on low end for starting and that is the reason for needing the choke for starting and warm up. I do not use the choke most of the time and never use it to keep the bike running. And after a minute or so mine is ready to roll.

Doug
 

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About the only things left to check -

Make sure choke knob hasn't advanced out on it's own - noting black plugs as described.

Drain sample of fuel into clear jar from float bowl drain screw -
to verify only gasoline is the sample w/o water, scum.

If the Scoot sat all winter with old fuel - might be forced to go through the moves of rebuilding the carb w/o parts - to make sure it's to factory clean status at the jets & ports blown out by compressed air.

Knowing what it's not - is easier to follow up the chain.

In some rare cases - the ECM wires were found damaged in that mass of wires that exit the ECM near the battery.

Best if Luck - it will get sorted out.
 

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Correction

Assuming you've fixed the petcock leak.
Is it falling on its face when you accelerate hard.
Prier to te trouble did you have the seat off. If so then you most likely have a broken ECM wire. Usually the black one on the right side about 1" out from the ECM and may be broke inside the casing.
The way to check is to slide a safety pin into the ECM and down the wire 2" slide another threw the same black wire and connect a jumper wire with a alagator clip on each end and if your problem goes away then you have found your problem.

Donut/Doug
 

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Did you get the fuel to stop coming out of the relief hole on the petcock? Those diaphragms are very prone to a small tear. Was the spring in place?
 

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Bike cuts out...

++1on carb rebuild...I had some of the same issues on my first 1300S (2003). It needed carb rebuild. diaphrams were cracking with age. I had about 90K on the bike at that time. Fixed up the acceleration cut out as well as improved the starting & idle performance. Enjoy the ride!
 

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1) Put the petcock valve in the off position.

2) Remove the vacuum hose from the petcock valve and apply an external vacuum to the petcock valve. You can use a vacuum cleaner.

3) Remove the fuel line from the petcock valve and install a hose. Put the hose into a container.

4) With the vacuum applied to the petcock valve and the fuel hose from the petcock valve in the container, turn the petcock valve to either reserve or normal.

5) Watch the fuel flow into the container. It should be fast with no bubbles (that's if you use a clear hose to see the flow).

6) If it's not flowing fast, then its your diaphram inside the petcock valve. There are two diaphram halves that are joined together. What's happening is that the diaphram next to the vacuum side is pulling but the second diaphram at the fuel side is not being pulled together thus causing the fuel passage to be slightly block.


The above is a simple test to trouble shooting 101


Jerry
 
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