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Discussion Starter #1
I was sitting at a stop light I was about to take off and the by just stalled, I hit the start button all that happened was the lights would dim.

The lights are all bright the radio works, I even tried to push start it.

It seems like for a month now that it's had trouble starting I hit the start button and as a delay and it seems to struggle turning engine over, Since this is my 1st VTX 1300 between I assumed this was normal.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I guess I'm dealing with the notorious starter switch problem? Whenever I hit the start button now the headlight just goes completely out.
 

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The Starter switch does dual function to OPEN the headlight circuit to provide a few more amps for cranking. The HL goes OUT.

Grease + dirt + time = poor connection.

There is a PDF for lube and clean starter switch > Rattlebars originated the info.. Look in Step by Step board.

Has your Tripmeters reset??

Clean and tighten battery terminals.

Have a voltmeter to test the charging voltage??

How old is the battery??

I use this to find things most often> Google "vtxoa: starter switch" many responses should appear.
 

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I found this video on how to clean the contacts on your start button hope this helps you

 

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I had this problem once on my old 1996 VT1100, I had just put the battery in after winter storage. It appears the screws holding the battery leads were not tight. Use a wrench or socket to tighten battery terminals as Hans & Feet said.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thnx for replying guys,

I have not tested the battery because all the lights are bright and there is not even a clicking from the silinoid or any attempt to start.


I cleaned the switch per the video and still no change. I did have corrosion (see middle pic) but if you look at the picture of the top of the switch with the wires it looks like the connection may have corroded (see first pic) inside the plastic. has anyone ever tried rebuilding that?
 

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Looks like corrosion on the Black/White + wire. The Yellow/Red goes to the Starter Relay.
Clean it with some baking soda and a tooth brush.
VERIFY in NEUTRAL >> If you take a wire or something bridge across the contacts for the above wires.
Starter relay should operate if the IGN switch is on and you bridge the contacts.

Is the "shunt" moving freely??
The shunt is a sliding bar that makes a connection across a pair of contacts.
This sliding bar can move up or down a bit in case the contacts move some from being hot.
Sometimes a knife has to be used if plastic melted on the shunt carrier.
Stretching the spring a little may give it the tension it needs.
My brother in law's cleaning did not fix his Starter Switch, trimming plastic fixed the problem.

Use a non-abrasive cleaner to clean the contacts.
Kitchen cleaning pads are good.
https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/73-how-step-step/456068-rattlebars-starter-switch-mtce.html
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The shunt is in fact working, the battery is fully charged and my attempt to jump the connection via the start switch did not turn the engine over.

At this point I'm going to assume no signal is getting to the solenoid or the solenoid is bad.
 

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Put the Tranny in Neutral, on the STARTER RELAY short the Battery Terminal to the Starter Motor Terminal(both are the large cables)
Some sparks when you make the connection and engine should crank. An old screwdriver is good.

Another possibility is the GROUND line of the Starter Relay.
Neutral Switch and when in gear with the kickstand UP, and clutch lever pulled you should get starter relay activity.
Neutral light ON???

Is the wire with the corrosion still connected to the copper button???
Wire could be broken and the tar/RTV stuff could be holding it to the switch.
Do you know if the Black/White wire has voltage on it???
Test light or volt meter???

I had a battery that died suddenly. First crank in the morning was good. Rode 60 miles and parked. 30 mins later no crank.
Lights were good. They are not the brightest in the daytime. A bump start and on the road again. A stop at an auto parts place.
The only battery was for HD and VTX. Another bump start and headed home. Bought a new battery, the old tested 12 amps on a load,
more than that and it flat lined. That is why the headlight was kind of ok...

Another thing I remembered, when I went pushed the starter button and released it, the headlight would not come on.
I had to recycle the IGN switch to see the headlight again.

Starter/IGN fuse??? Checked/replaced it???
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks again for everyone's responses, I ask again for everyone's forgiveness as I have not worked on any engine in over 10 years and have forgot even the basic troubleshooting.

It turned out to be the 10 amp ignition starter fuse, I replaced it with the spare hit the start button the bike turned over after that I proceeded to put everything back together.
Once everything was assembled I hit the start button go for a ride and nothing... The fuse was blown again.

Took the 10 amp fuse out for the headlight put it in started the bike Let it run for a few minutes turned it off and started it again.
Not sure what I'm dealing with here, when I ever hit the start button the headlight goes out as it should.

Am I looking at badd starter switch assembly that's causing the starter Ignition fuse to blow?
 

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>>> Let it run for a few minutes turned it off and started it again.<<<< IT cranked/ran or fuse blew again???

Not much on the starter switch that can short out.

Any mods?? Handlebars??

Yellow/Red wire from Starter switch to 9 pin RED connector to Starter Relay terminal.

Shunt slides from Headlight contacts(+12v and wire to Dimmer switch) to Starter Relay contacts (+12v and wire to starter relay).

Black/White wire feeds the Starter Switch and the Ignition coils.

Black wire from fuse feeds Kill switch and Ignition Control Module(ICM) AND 2003 ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP.. <<<PRIME SUSPECT<<<
All the wires mentioned here are on the 9 pin RED connector fed by IGN/Start fuse.

Inspect wiring, look for loose or exposed wire,move it while IGN ON not running.
Turn the HB full travel..

Fuel pump also has a relay.. Disconnect it to see if fuse trouble goes away.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
>>> Let it run for a few minutes turned it off and started it again.<<<< IT cranked/ran or fuse blew again???

Not much on the starter switch that can short out.

Any mods?? Handlebars??

Yellow/Red wire from Starter switch to 9 pin RED connector to Starter Relay terminal.

Shunt slides from Headlight contacts(+12v and wire to Dimmer switch) to Starter Relay contacts (+12v and wire to starter relay).

Black/White wire feeds the Starter Switch and the Ignition coils.

Black wire from fuse feeds Kill switch and Ignition Control Module(ICM) AND 2003 ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP.. <<<PRIME SUSPECT<<<
All the wires mentioned here are on the 9 pin RED connector fed by IGN/Start fuse.

Inspect wiring, look for loose or exposed wire,move it while IGN ON not running.
Turn the HB full travel..



Fuel pump also has a relay.. Disconnect it to see if fuse trouble goes away.



Went for a ride tonight no problems, stopped for dinner got back on the bike and continued our trip, stopped in a parking lot and was talking to my girlfriend and the bike died...ignition fuse was blown again, I had 4 extra fuses with me, every time the bike was about to start the fuse blow.

1 time the bike started and I got 20 feet and the motor died...because I can see no exposed wires and there is no repeatable conditions I am leaning towards the fuel pump as the culprit via advice above.

As soon as I find the issue I will post all related info to help the next person, thanks again guys for your help
 

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Discussion Starter #16
is this guy bypassing the fuel relay? can some one explain what he has done?


I am trying to find any way to fix my bike so I dont have to load the monster on a trailer again (still sitting in the parking lot where it died) I am on my way now to see if the relay is in fact the problem, I will also take fuel line with me and see if i can by pass the fuel pump.
 

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It is a video of an 1800 with no fuel pump prime. I had to look up the poster to verify 1800.


Remove the FP power connector.

Remove hose from the petcock to the fuel pump.

Cut the hose from fuel pump to carb far enough back to swing the cut end to the petcock.

You should now have a hose from petcock to carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It is a video of an 1800 with no fuel pump prime. I had to look up the poster to verify 1800.


Remove the FP power connector.

Remove hose from the petcock to the fuel pump.

Cut the hose from fuel pump to carb far enough back to swing the cut end to the petcock.

You should now have a hose from petcock to carb.
Put a new fuse and tried to start the bike fuse blew immediately, disconnected fuel Relay bike started up immediately ran until fuel in the bowl went empty.

I'm going to try and bypass The fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Bypass is complete, Bike started up I let it idle for a bit and revved it a few times it seems be getting adequate fuel so hopefully I am done ??
I'm just guessing that the fuel pump was going badd and drawing too much voltage and/or the relay.

Thanks again for everyone's help
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Lol I drive the bike to a gas station top off the tank drive home turn the bike off for 5 minutes while waiting for my girlfriend and now I'm not getting any fuel.
I suspect the fuel line might be level with the petcock.
At least the original problem has been dealt with.
 
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