New tires, front and back. ME880 on front and ME888 on back.
Changed fluids: Brake, Final Drive Oil, Engine Oil, and Coolant
Cleaned Air Box and filter
Changed Spark Plugs
Adjusted clutch and throttle cables
Replaced tire valve stems (dry rot)
I would like to say "I" did all that... but I don't know one end of the bike from another. I had all this work done by my favorite mechanic - "Rob" at http://www.westedgecycle.com/
Added two tire pressure transmitters that fit on the tire stem and transmits the pressure to the Garmin Zumo 590. Now I can monitor my tire pressure in real time. It even allows me to set a "Low Pressure Warning" and alerts me when the pressure reaches that level.
The only drawback is that the transmitters sleep shortly after the motorcycle stops (not sure how long... maybe an hour?) and will not transmit information until the wheels start moving again.
My LeatherLyke hard bags "died" on me. The right-hand bag broke around the forward mounting peg and was just hanging by the rear peg. So I had to take it off. Since it would look weird for my bike to have only one bag I took the left-hand bag off as well.
After looking for new LeatherLyke bags and finding their website to be down (not sure if it was temporary or if they went out of business) I decide to go with a different manufacturer.
My friends and I made it to Republic and have stopped for the night. I noticed that my radio will sometimes lose power for a second and then power up again. My bike actually lost all electrical power and the engine stalled while riding! That might be two unrelated incidents that just happened at the same time. I think the engine stall was because I needed to switch to my reserve tank, but I never lost all electrical power before when my fuel ran low. I might have a lose wire, or maybe my battery is dying? I think the battery is original equipment from 2007!
I'll continue my ride tomorrow and see if I experience any further issues.
I did a quick check of the wiring, without tracing every inch. The connections at the ground and power points appear to be tight and making good contact. I will continue the ride and see if any further issues develop.
I started the bike after I did the quick, cursory check of the wires. The bike started right up like nothing was wrong. Hopefully, it was just gremlins that got past my Gremlin Bell.
Well, I made it home, but it was a butt-clenching ride. I'm still having electrical issues. I did try turning off both of my accessories (Garmin GPS and J&M CB) and while they were off I did not experience any electrical issues and my bike ran normal.
My friends and I stopped in our home town for dinner. When I climbed back on the bike to ride home, I had my CB on and the engine was stuttering, acting like it was about to stall, then would race, then stutter. Finally after about 2 or 3 minutes the engine calmed down to it's normal purr. I turned the CB off and rode home.
I finally accessed the battery area of my bike. I wanted to check the date on the battery to see if it is, in fact, original from 2007. I could not find a date on the top. The sides are down inside the battery well and I can't see the sides. I checked all the wires again and they still look good. No loose connections, no bare wiring, no melted insulation.
I checked the few maintenance files I have and cannot locate any entries that indicate the battery was ever changed. I will double check with my mechanic to see if he has any files indicating the battery was changed.
* Later on August 4*
I found out the battery was installed in 2014. That's better than 2007, but still probably too old to provide power to both my Garmin GPS and the J&M CB. So, I replaced the battery today. I will take her out for a test spin and see if I experience any electrical issues.
I just remembered to enter the results of the test ride the following day. Everything worked normal. No electrical hiccups. I guess the battery was just too old to maintain the current necessary for all the electrical demands on it.
You said the key word 'current'. Or AMPS. A normal check can show 12+ volts, and one would assume it was fine, but if a cell or 2 are weak, and not able to meet amp draws, it's going to give you trouble.