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What different type of air intake could yall possible recommend to help with this possible issue? Maybe a spiked, or hypercharger?
As TennX said, OEM decapped (google this, basically under the tank, almost the entire top of the box is cut open) coupled with a reusable high flow filter like K&N.

I went with a Arlen Ness Big Sucker, and had my bike dyno tuned. Because it doesn't have the tube design like yours, air can flow out the back of the filter. Yours when more air flow goes in, it is forced into the carb. It would require a very skilled tuner to get that to work with little all the way up to ram air flow.

I don't like the OEM design, that you have to pull the tank to get to the carb. I can get to my carb without moving the tank now.

Here is my setup. I have really good dyno numbers, but took a big hit on MPG (click images for larger vie):


My dyno numbers and setup:
 

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Old Goat
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Just a comment..not directed at any one...I just dont get...it take a perfectly good running bike and dick with it for cool looks ,maybe just a touch more performance or bragging rights......these bikes 1300/1800 run just fine right out of the box....I think in the 54k/14 years Ive had my bone stock running bike ..Ive had 2 maintenance issues-but .... what do I know Im just an old man....good luck OP
 

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I just dont get...it take a perfectly good running bike and dick with it for cool looks ,maybe just a touch more performance or bragging rights......these bikes 1300/1800 run just fine right out of the box....but what do I know just an old man....good luck OP
I did mine for ease. I can get to my carb without removing the tank. The added power is just a side effect of getting it dyno tuned. I honestly believe the only way to properly tune a bike is at a tuner with an exhaust sniffer. (or with an added O2 sensor system)

By your point, you would 100% leave your bike stock. I have a batwing fairing, Roadhouse 2:1 exhaust, handlebar risers, aftermarket seat, highway pegs... I do these things to improve my experience with my bike.
 

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Old Goat
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I did mine for ease. I can get to my carb without removing the tank. The added power is just a side effect of getting it dyno tuned. I honestly believe the only way to properly tune a bike is at a tuner with an exhaust sniffer. (or with an added O2 sensor system)

By your point, you would 100% leave your bike stock. I have a batwing fairing, Roadhouse 2:1 exhaust, handlebar risers, aftermarket seat, highway pegs... I do these things to improve my experience with my bike.
I said running bike eg.. engine...not a word was mentioned about blinging it out...ergonomics ....to each his own rulz...
 

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I said running bike eg.. engine...not a word was mentioned about blinging it out...ergonomics ....to each his own rulz...
Like an exhaust system? I like the look of an aftermarket system, and needed the space for bigger saddle bags. Since I was rocking a new exhaust, I put in a new intake, for the reasons I posted above. My bike starts at all temperatures without the enricher (I removed my enricher), and once warm runs smoothly. No issues at all (other than 30 mpg).
 

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As Hans suggested try just lifting your legs without putting them on the bars. That will tell you two things, whether or not it's adding or subtracting airflow through the intake, and if your weight is pushing on a wire/connection under the seat.

If it still does it then it's under the seat. Is your seat pan broken or cracked by chance?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I did check the seat and its not broken or anything. Im only 200lbs fully geared so idk if my weight should be any issue. I bought this bike with that intake on it so I don't have the stock parts. The only upgrade ive made is wind shield, phone holder, rear tire , and breaks. Also regular maintenance.
 

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Ok, i'll weigh in...

It's the change to the Air intake dynamics with your leg/pants in that position relative to the aftermarket air cleaner. It could be blocking some air or forcing too much in.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Okay guys I believe the diagnosis is official. I did complete the tune up and clean the carb etc. However I get more power and responsiveness that's not the issue lol. I tested everyone's input. I lifted my legs up, no change, i put my left leg up, no change, i put my right legs up, its starts to bog. I payed attention to the feel of the airflow and yall are correct. It seems to be creating some kind of funnel to create to much airflow to the carb. So I guess the question now is. Should I replace it with a different intake or stick with just using my left leg?
 

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Okay guys I believe the diagnosis is official. I did complete the tune up and clean the carb etc. However I get more power and responsiveness that's not the issue lol. I tested everyone's input. I lifted my legs up, no change, i put my left leg up, no change, i put my right legs up, its starts to bog. I payed attention to the feel of the airflow and yall are correct. It seems to be creating some kind of funnel to create to much airflow to the carb. So I guess the question now is. Should I replace it with a different intake or stick with just using my left leg?
Like the post before mine by harkon, if you do go aftermarket, you want something that allows air to flow through the back, so it wont have a ram air effect. I have an Arlen Ness as you can see in my picture, it looks just like the one harkon posted.

If you like the OEM design, they are available used. Then you can do the decap mod, where you cut much of the top off and put a K&N filter inside.
 

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No i do not know if it has been re-jetted
Probably has been, which is normal when someone does an Exhaust and Intake mod. Which means if you decide to go back to the OEM intake you'll likely need to change the jets back to OEM as well.

I'd probably try a different aftermarket intake, like the one Harkon mentioned (round) and see if that works. Try to buy used because that may or may not work.
OEM intake would be pretty much guaranteed to take care of it but then be prepared to change the carb jets.

Or you could try re-positioning your highway pegs and see if that works.

ADDED
Or you could forget using highway pegs and just ride. i don't have highway pegs because my legs are so long i'd have to mount the pegs on the front axle..
 

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FWIW, are we talking about bogging at highway speeds and cruising power or a low speeds and low power?
I know you already mentioned that the presence of your leg near the filter does change the running but that should not matter at off-idle performance at low speeds, such as light throttle in traffic.
I would have never expected that a simple leg could have as much effect on the air flow through the filter, without blockage of course.
Keep us posted of your progress.
 

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FWIW, are we talking about bogging at highway speeds and cruising power or a low speeds and low power?
I know you already mentioned that the presence of your leg near the filter does change the running but that should not matter at off-idle performance at low speeds, such as light throttle in traffic.
I would have never expected that a simple leg could have as much effect on the air flow through the filter, without blockage of course.
Keep us posted of your progress.
I assumed at higher speeds not in slow local traffic. Good question.
 

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I had this very problem with my bike. Except my bike would actually stall. What I eventually found were two wires going to the ICM were broken inside of the insulation. It wasn't until i had messed with the wires enough for the insulation to actually break that I found the problem. Check the wires VERY carefully. Good luck!
 
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