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Discussion Starter #1
I just solved one issue and discovered another. It's new tire time and when I pulled the rear wheel and checked the bearings, I found "the" issue. First, I noticed that the Locktite Moly Paste had turned black. When I turned the flanger bearing it was very noisy. When I pulled the flange set off there were pieces/shards of metal mixed in the moly on the underside of the flanger set. I'm thinking that this must have just exploded. Last tire change things were fine. I'm at 20,000 miles. I looked at the axel and there's no deep issues/marks there. I'm thinking it blew up not long ago.


The bearings on the brake disc side seemed fine....until....I was on the floor trying to balance the wheel, it lost balance and fell on the garage floor on the flanger set. Now, the bearings are seized, the disc side bearings seem to turn harder. Is it possible when the flanger hit the floor it threw all the bearings out of wack?


What is the current way to resolve this? I suspect all the bearings will need replacing disc side and of course flanger. I'm familiar with the tapered bearing seat issue. The reason for the failure. I know there was a guy that had cores and re-machined the flanger. Is it the flanger only that has the taper? Not the seat on the brake disc side also.


I went out for a great ride this afternoon and thought I'd pull the wheels for a tire change. I've wondered if I was going to see the issue. Sure enough. It's a 2004 and I suspected I would. Not a very nice summer with my 1300 C. If anyone can point me in a direction I'd be very appreciative. Is it as simple as ordering a new flanger set? But then I have the disc side bearing to deal with too.



My learing curve on wrenching on the 1300 C continues to climb. Thanks everyone!
 

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First, the flange bearings are 2 bearings stacked back to back on the splined end of the flange hub which is a separate piece from the wheel. The wheel, has 2 wheel bearings one on each side, these are different from the flange and flange bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Out of curiosity, is the current OEM flange hub from the parts supplier still out of spec or did Honda fix the issue? I can't imagine it's still out of spec, but given the fact it happened in the first place and they didn't recall, who knows. The diagram of course is the exploded view, but does it come assembled or in parts?
Also,
I was just out and looked at the wheel. The spacer is tight in place, no movement from side to side and the bearings of course are seated on the spacer. If I were to attempt to replace the two bearings (not the flange hub) how would you go about that? From the vids I've watched the spacer will move from side to side to allow a drift to bite the inner race the bearing allowing the drift to unseat the bearing. Not happening here.
 

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If your in doubt replace the wheel brgs. The grease may be dried out also. But I bet the spacer may be jamming them , slip the Axel through and tap on it, may realign things . I replace flange brgs with each rear tire replacement .my housing was machined properly, 2007r ,you can check yours . I get generic brgs , pop out the seals, wash out and pack with good wheel BRG grease .install with two sides of BRG open together and seals on outside . easy peasy japanesey . ... You got it right using a big drift to tap out old wheel bearings . to install new ones you can lay an old bearing on the new one and tap on the old one to get new one in . eo
 

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I am just hearing about this issue with 2004 1300c's.

Is there a thread that discusses the problem more in depth as I am not getting exactly what is going on.

Does this problem occur on all 2004 c's or is it hit or miss?

I am not a master mechanic and am learning, but this seems serious.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I am just hearing about this issue with 2004 1300c's.

Is there a thread that discusses the problem more in depth as I am not getting exactly what is going on.

Does this problem occur on all 2004 c's or is it hit or miss?

I am not a master mechanic and am learning, but this seems serious.
I'm no master mechanic either, but I've been learning. I've had the carb apart, replaced the fuel petcock valve diaphram, replaced the steering bearings, PAIR Mod etc. I'm thinking you have a better chance of having the problem, like me, since we have early models. The bearing seat has a slight taper to it. This puts undue pressure, wear and eventual failure of the bearings. I have 20,000 on mine. I changed out tires when I bought the bike at 5000 miles. I didn't detect any issue then. I had a taste of bearing replacement when I did the steering post bearings. It wasn't that bad to do. The fix here is to get the reworked flanger hub. I believe the reworked hub from Jon have the bearings installed. That's a pretty straight forward task, removing and replacing the hub. Thankfully it's available. I'm waiting to hear back from Jon.

If you have a VTX you should be checking that bearing regularly with each tire change. From what I understand, it will happen within the time frame mine failed. Most 2004 C's are well past 20K miles. How many miles on your bike? Is it hit or miss? Man, I don't know. It would be fun to know the oldest known model year bike that have the bad flange hub. How Honda got by with this one, I'll never know.
 

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I'm no master mechanic either, but I've been learning. I've had the carb apart, replaced the fuel petcock valve diaphram, replaced the steering bearings, PAIR Mod etc. I'm thinking you have a better chance of having the problem, like me, since we have early models. The bearing seat has a slight taper to it. This puts undue pressure, wear and eventual failure of the bearings. I have 20,000 on mine. I changed out tires when I bought the bike at 5000 miles. I didn't detect any issue then. I had a taste of bearing replacement when I did the steering post bearings. It wasn't that bad to do. The fix here is to get the reworked flanger hub. Thankfully it's available. I'm waiting to hear back from Jon. If you have a 2004 you should be checking that bearing. Is it hit or miss? Man, I don't know. It would be fun to know the oldest known model year bike that had the failure.
I am getting new tires Thursday and heading to GA on Friday. This will be the second set of tires I have put on it, the original set was dry rotted when I got it.

I have just shy of 9000 miles on it, so it may or may not be showing the bearing problem now.

I really have not had to do much to mine since I got it in 2007. I have changed the oil and battery and added a little coolant to the reserve reservoir.

I did not need to do anything to the carb as Sea Foam took care of any deposits that may have been there.
 

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I am just hearing about this issue with 2004 1300c's.

Is there a thread that discusses the problem more in depth as I am not getting exactly what is going on.

Does this problem occur on all 2004 c's or is it hit or miss?

I am not a master mechanic and am learning, but this seems serious.
It's every VTX, every year, every model 1300 and 1800 and it is just luck of the draw if yours develops this or not. Read this thread on the How To board for more;

https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/73-how-step-step/44634-important-please-read-flange-bearings.html
 

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Ive mentioned this before....Not everyone can/does this...but back in the day I bought several flange drives from trike conversions ...every time I do maintenance/change rear tire...I rotate out a unit....:thumbup:...just an idea....good luck
 

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The early 1800's had the problem for the most part. Several 1300's, not many.
Check flange bearings when rear tire replaced.

I just replaced my flange bearings at 189, 518 miles.
One was notchy, the other felt ok but did not spin as nice as the new ones.

Stay calm.

I an not sure of the sequence of events of the OP, but something fell.
Flange has a snap ring that holds it on the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
....... Best to let those that have the correct tools do the job or you may be buying a new wheel
For sure. I looked at the bearings/spacer closely today. They are tight with little to no room for a drift to catch the bearing. I could not move the spacer enough to make a difference. The wheel is at the stealership. Turns out they're not bad on pricing when you bring the wheel in off the bike. I don't mind tackling something new, but I'll pass on this one. Waiting to hear back from Jon. Some more down time I'm afraid.
 

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If you have a 2004 you should be checking that bearing regularly with each tire change. From what I understand, it will happen within the time frame mine failed. Most 2004 C's are well past 20K miles. How many miles on your bike? Is it hit or miss? Man, I don't know. It would be fun to know the oldest known model year bike that have the bad flange hub. How Honda got by with this one, I'll never know.
I'd say if you have any VTX, you ought to be checking bearings (wheel and flange) every time the rear wheel is off. No big deal. We are all lubing the axle and rear pumpkin at least every other year, right? As far as the issue of bearings failing... well, the replacement pair costs what... maybe $10 each? As for "how this got by Honda" - don't know what that is supposed to mean. It's not like you are stranded on the side of road if a flange bearing goes bad. Plenty of riders who never detect the progressive wear of a bad bearing have described having nothing but rust and grit left inside their bearings, and they were still riding; just removed wheel to replace tire. No one is going to purposely ride with the flange bearing failed, but it's not like your wheel is going to seize up and throw you in the ditch when a flange bearing wears out. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Heres' a pic of the flange bearing. Balls exposed. Pieces of race in the grease I cleaned out. It's so strange I never noticed any grinding when pushing the bike in and out of the garage. The bearings are very hard to move. Grinding to the max.


 
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