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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
last attempt got sidetracked so I will try again for asking about hose connections for the post-pair-removal process for a 1300

the slow roll is fine and it goes high in rpm without stalling but if I quickly twist, it stutters and stalls


this obviously goes to the gas tank vent on bottom and routes to outside.


these two apparently still go directly to the fuel petcock valve


only the one smaller of the two hoses for the back of the air intake are still attached, the larger was removed, according to directions along with the other two hoses attached to the evap canister under the rear wheel.


here I have a smaller vacuum line from the bypass valves up front which T’s into the petcock valve and the bottom of the carb. It is unknown currently if one of these or more need to be capped off, or resized to fit the rear center vacuum tip on the inner portion of the carb. There is a larger, apparently 3/8 inch or so on the rear portion of the carb that is not known what to do with.

I have Tappers information but it is only of direct help for the 1800 model….mine is the 1300, so no plugs like the larger FI model, not some of the images are directly related. Secondary air system removal is not for my bike as it stands so no big deal.

As it stands I am absolutely blank on the following:
Both inlets on the carb, one is 3/8 and the other is not quite a 1/8 little larger, 3/16 perhaps.
The lines from the front under the frame neck that led to a bunch of other valves and vacuum connects into the petcock and front bottom portion of the carb.

Basically I would find pictures of the following areas very useful either from a non-CA model 1300 that has had the connections made fully. Or is there is a Tapper-like write up for the 1300 CA model.

I found the following very useful and will try some more tomorrow but its always good to ask for more info before I start again.
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.p ... pair+valve
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.p ... pair+valve

thanks
 

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I just took mine off on Tuesday. Basically it looks like you have the reed valve covers replaced so all you need to do is remove the canister from the top of the frame which I think you have done this has 4 lines conected to it. 1 air intake from the air cleaner, 2 air outlets to the cylinders where the reed valves where, and 1 vacume line. I think you have removed the cansiter (what ever this controls I guess the air flow) and the first three larger lines. and you must have disconected the vacum line to remove the canister. This leaves you with an unsealed vacum system so you can either plug it or what I did was to take of the vac line that was on the canister which is the longest in the system and unplug the line from the carb remove this line and the T conector and replace both of these with the long line that went from the canister of the pair valve. So the long line now goes from the carb to the T that conects to the petcock and to something else which I forget where it goes right now.
 

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Sorry, it's been too long ago, so I don't remember exactly, but check these links out, info should be there. Good luck! (I think you just dump the T and go straight to the carb, but lke I said, it's been awhile!)(Oh, and by the way, good pics!!!)
http://crapmods.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=51
 

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your vac system should look like this when your done
out of the case into a T,out one side of T to carb,out other side of T to petcock......... this set up will result in not needing to plug any vac lines(less chance for leak) and you do away with the second T.
the line hang down on the back of the carb,about 6" long is the carb vent and is not plugged the smaller line on the front of the carb goes to the T as mentioned
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
syhman said:
your vac system should look like this when your done
out of the case into a T,out one side of T to carb,out other side of T to petcock......... this set up will result in not needing to plug any vac lines(less chance for leak) and you do away with the second T.
the line hang down on the back of the carb,about 6" long is the carb vent and is not plugged the smaller line on the front of the carb goes to the T as mentioned
that part helps me visualize it better than many explanations but in the last picture it has a vacuum line coming from the bottom of the carb to the right most cylinder fins in the photo. If I do as you mentioned, would it be advised to cap the larger opening on the rear part of the carb, and run the longer line as shown to the inner fitting of the carb pointing up facing the tank closest to the petcock valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
updated...

The vacuum connections are made, larger airbox tube is plugged, tank vent hose is good and petcock valve is connected.

as I see it, I believed I had it right now.....


but.......

the idle is fixed, the slow roll is fine and it goes high in rpm without stalling but if I quickly twist, it stutters and stalls. I remember I had this issue when I rejetted last year after pipes went on....however....the information I have read repeatedly states there should be no changes made to the carbs.

I have the DynoJet stage 1 kit in now....will have to look at the setup again to determine my settings but I was kinda hoping to not have to dicker with the jet setting again cause its so cumbersome.
 

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Wizza: If you are talking about the line that comes from the lower/front/right part of the carb and UP to the top of the front cylinder head and plugs into the "Evap Purge Control Valve", that is vacuum hose #11 and found ONLY on the Ca. models.. I don't think you will find this in the 1800 instructions that you were using... If that is the line you are speaking of, "plug it"... I used a machine bolt screwed into it... the bike will run with it uncapped, but I believe it runs better when capped...

If this is the line, start the bike and put your finger over the open end of the hose... rev the bike and you will feel the "pulsing" vacuum level change... there are performance advantages in special circumstances by leaving this line open, but you will probably want to plug it anyway... all around plugging it is the best bet imo.

Good luck :beer3:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the slow roll is fine and it goes high in rpm without stalling but if I quickly twist, it stutters and stalls



looking for assistance in any manner...thanks....not afraid of jacking with it cause the worst thing that can happen is more changes and its raining anyhow..... :wink: :wink: :wink:
 

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Wizza said:
the slow roll is fine and it goes high in rpm without stalling but if I quickly twist, it stutters and stalls



looking for assistance in any manner...thanks....not afraid of jacking with it cause the worst thing that can happen is more changes and its raining anyhow..... :wink: :wink: :wink:

Sounds like your main jet is too big or your needle height is too high. The different parts of the carb affect fuel flow based on throttle position. Sounds like your low end is fine and that your getting too much fuel at mid-range or WOT. Here's a great link on tuning a CV carb:

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
that part can be checked...I will start with the needle height since its easier to access.

Its on 4th notch as I recall from my original settings from DJ rejet following pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
worked on the carb settings again today

first changed the needle height from #4 to one shorter at #3 notch.

ran fine at startup and idle but again no joy for the roll on.....still seems like a vacuum issue but I am totally tapped for what else it can be.

second I changed the main jet from the DJ 195 to the 190....no love there either after I put the needle back to the original spot I had it in.




still will tinker with it some more tomorrow afternoon but I feel above all that my issue may still be with the setup of my 1300s de-pair job....something simple I missed somewhere I am betting......

most times when I start in on a job like this....its the "Captain Obvious" moments that get me everytime.
 

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You might like to look over Bare's site, he has a pair removal tutorial maybe if you pm him he might have a suggestion.

http://www.bareasschoppers
 

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Looking at the pics of your bike... aftermarket exhaust and stock air filter cover... Stock Keihin mainjet/stock Keihin needle one shim... 2 1/2 turns on the A/F screw and the fine tune from there... otherwise fight the small jets supplied with dj kit and the dj needle.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I had considered trying more of the original parts, but used for comparison, the DJ kit went in with only about 4 changes required and I had it running without a glitch at all.

The de-pair still seems to be my concern....I used Bares site, Big Larrys info, Roogie and bsaman's information....the majority of good pics and info is for the 1800 and thats just the way it is.

to me it still seems like a vacuum leak....I am going to redo all the lines to try and pin it down. Rather do that than jack with all the carb settings....it ran fine after I rejet in Ca and since I been back on the east coast, it has run flawless til I started changing it again.

well I will continue with it later today...thanks
 

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Wizza,

I think you're on the right track about it being a vacuum problem. I think you either need to modify the thread title or start a new one asking for help with CA emissions removal from those who have done it successfully.

I've tried color coding your original picture as well as one I took from the shop manual to try to help you get on the right track. Hopefully this, with the help of others, will get your bike back into good shape.



RED
The vacuum line circled in red should go/come from the nipple on the intake maifold and tee to your fuel petcock and the air cut-off valve on the carb ONLY. Remove any extra line and cap or remove the appropriate tee's to make it happen.

YELLOW

Remove all together. This went to one of the control valves for the EVAP system. I don't know if the end on the carb needs to be plugged or not--this is where the CA guys who removed the emissions stuff could help out.

BLUE

do NOT cap this line. It needs to be left open the the atmosphere. I tried to illustrate the path of this line with the blue line. the photo from the shop manual below shows the location of the line.

GREEN

The shop manual shows a rubber cap there. Most likely, one of your CA emissions stuff is there (is this where the yellow lines come from?)



I hope this helps. If you run into trouble, pm or email me and I'll give you my cell number.
 

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