hate to tell you this but keep bleeding it. Did a friends 1300 and it took us over an hour to get it bled right.

Although we kept reusing the new clean fluid right back out of a clean bottle, didn't use much once all the fluid started coming out clean.

I don't understand why it's being a PITA but I've run into it too....just keep pumping and it'll bleed out. It sucks but it'll work out.

I didn't have a problem doing the front one though.

 

So while the pump is sucking like a 2 cent hooker, what do we do with the pedal? Should we pump that too?

 

I was using the speed bleeder screws and pumping the pedal...I wasn't using a pump of any type.

Spike will be along to help more, but that's what I did and it finally had the original pressure and has for the last 3k.

 

Couple of things I learned when I did mine:

• Bleed the banjo bolts at both ends
  
  Once you have pulled fluid thru with the pump, stop using it. It is just a waste of time from then on (IMHO)
  
  With fluid in the resevoir, pump the pedal 3 or 4 times SLOWLY. Don't pump the pedal like it is the pump on top of a beer keg
  
  On the last pump, hold it down and open the bleeder
  
  Let the pedal fall to the bottom and hold it until the bleeder is closed
  
  Let the pedal up and wait 30 seconds or so
  
  Repeat the process until you start to get a pedal
  
  Once you start to get a pedal, continue the process until the pedal is firm and make sure you don't see air bubbles in the fluid coming out. Once all the little bubbles are out you should get a firm pedal when you pump it up
  
  Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level. It really sucks to pull air in and start over when you are almost done.

It took about 3/4 of a bottle of fluid and about 40 minutes to get mine to right. Just keep after it and you will get there.

 

. Don't pump the pedal like it is the pump on top of a beer keg

I Hate when I go to a keg party and some ass is pumping the crap outta it and ends up making soda pop beer.


And how do I bleed the bango nuts at both ends? They don't have a connection for a hose

 

FYI, after installing the Accutronix, the rear pedal will NEVER be as firm as the stock system. You'll just have to get used to it.

 

Couple of things I learned when I did mine:

• Bleed the banjo bolts at both ends
  
  Once you have pulled fluid thru with the pump, stop using it. It is just a waste of time from then on (IMHO)
  
  With fluid in the resevoir, pump the pedal 3 or 4 times SLOWLY. Don't pump the pedal like it is the pump on top of a beer keg
  
  On the last pump, hold it down and open the bleeder
  
  Let the pedal fall to the bottom and hold it until the bleeder is closed
  
  Let the pedal up and wait 30 seconds or so
  
  Repeat the process until you start to get a pedal
  
  Once you start to get a pedal, continue the process until the pedal is firm and make sure you don't see air bubbles in the fluid coming out. Once all the little bubbles are out you should get a firm pedal when you pump it up
  
  Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level. It really sucks to pull air in and start over when you are almost done.

It took about 3/4 of a bottle of fluid and about 40 minutes to get mine to right. Just keep after it and you will get there.

All good advice. This is how I finally got mine to go.

To bleed the banjo bolt do it just like if you were doing the bleeder. Pump it nice and slow a few times (I always did 10) and then hold it in on the final pump. Loosen the banjo bolt until you get fluid coming out. MAKE SURE YOU PROECT YOUR PAINT WHILE DOING THIS! Close the bolt before you release the brake. Do this a few times until just fluid and no air comes out. Clean up any fluid that gets on your bike right away (I kept a bucket of soapy water right by the bike). Do this at the bolt by the master cylinder, then the one by the caliper, then finally do the bleeder. If you do this you'll firm up right away. Just never release the brake while you have a bolt/bleeder open.

 

FYI, after installing the Accutronix, the rear pedal will NEVER be as firm as the stock system. You'll just have to get used to it.

My guess on why that is because of the torque advantage you now have with the huge break pedal arm. The arm is near twice as long as the stock. And of course there is probbaly a difference between the master cylinders.

Edit remove: But anyway, any clues on bleeding these banjo nuts? I'm searching posts and I found a couple that mention bleeding them, but no one metions the correct method.

 

Did I post the incorrect method?!

 

No I was typing my reply while you posted I'll edit

 

No I was typing my reply while you posted I'll edit

No worries

Just keep in mind that the banjo bleeding process is a lot messier so shop towels are your friend.

 

What you may have to do is adjust the clevis which attaches to the piston. What is probably happening is that it's too far into the cylinder and when it's released, it's not coming back far enough to build any real pressure. Try bringing it out a bit and then re-bleed.

 

I'm not a wrencher by nature... the clevis would be the shaft extension thingy(technical term)?

 

I'm not a wrencher by nature... the clevis would be the shaft extension thingy(technical term)?

Yep, it's on a threaded rod and adjustment brings the brake lever forward or back.

 

Thanks... Gah I can't wait to get home tonight and work on this thing...

 

Ex, make sure you have a tight seal both at the bolt near the reservoir and at the brake-t. I had the same problem when I installed my Accutronix a few months ago and everyone said I just needed to keep bleeding. I bled through 3 bottles of brake fluid before I finally decided I wasn't making progress. I mean, I saw NO bubbles and I still had zero resistance on the pedal. Just went to full depression every time. The Accutronix instructions, like all bike mod instructions, suck for non-wrenches, so I didn't realize I should use teflon tape or something similar to ensure a good seal. I took it apart, used teflon tape on the stock bolt that goes into the brake-T, and voila, it worked.

Good luck, man. Those suckers drove me nuts.

 

Yeah I read that in another thread as well. I wasn't leaking any fluid out of the banjo nut or the end of the new hose, but I to be thorough I'll give that a shot.

 

I just did mine tonight. One thing I added was a speed bleeder. It only took me 15min.

I think part of the trick is to not tighten the banjo bolt/switch down too much before bleeding. I pumped it until it leaked from that first fitting, then I tightened it. Then I tightened the flare nut into the new brake line. Then I opened the speed bleeder and pumped several times until the fluid started going down in the reservoir. Filled the reservoir again (without letting it go dry) and pumped that through about half way through that the fluid began to run clear without air bubbles from the bleeder. Topped off the reservoir closed the bleeder and put on the reservoir cap. a couple pumps on the pedal and it was firmed up.

I really couldn't believe it went that easy. My only problems with the install was getting that flare nut loose.

 

Took me 4 hours tonight but I got it. I think my cylinder was dry-locked. I moved the banjo bolt out halfway and pumped, and finally got pressure. I screw the banjo in partly and pumped till I got fluid, then tightened it. I then bled there a couple of times and moved on. I should have bled at the block connection in hindsight.... oh well.

Then I bled the rear banjo... wow shit really goes flying. The I hooked up my suction pump and used a combination of the foot pump and suction to get a ton of air out.

That being said, my pedal is not solid like the stock, but it's firm enough to lock the tire if I push hard. I might take it to a dealer and have them finish it up. I was drawing very fine bubbles when I gave up... but it wasn't getting any better.

I also got some brake fluid on the disc. I'm headed out to a car was right now and I'm going to spray off the bike.

Thanks for all the help!