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2006 VTX1800N3 Stock except for Barnette Clutch Springs
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 1800N3 7000k miles. Changed out clutch with Barnett Carbon Fiber Complete Clutch Kit, changed oil to Mobil 1 Racing 4T oil. Clutch grabs great in 1st. 2nd - 5th slip a lot when I get on it. Any ideas?
 

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Offset the last disk/plate?
Someone recently had issues, eventually it was crap in the master cylinder..
Looks to be right below this thread in "Recommended Reading"...This thread>>
Bleed the clutch system??? Old fluid causes problems.
 

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2006 1800N3 7000k miles. Changed out clutch with Barnett Carbon Fiber Complete Clutch Kit, changed oil to Mobil 1 Racing 4T oil. Clutch grabs great in 1st. 2nd - 5th slip a lot when I get on it. Any ideas?
I'm a big believer in using OEM parts. Sometimes I don't trust aftermarket parts. When I used aftermarket parts in the past on pervious bikes, sometimes something was a little off. Hopefully members can help you find a solution to the problem.
 

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I'm a big believer in using OEM parts. Sometimes I don't trust aftermarket parts. When I used aftermarket parts in the past on pervious bikes, sometimes something was a little off. Hopefully members can help you find a solution to the problem.
I’ve just picked up the same CF Barnett as this chap as it was new old stock & $70 (just a spare I couldn’t resist at that price) I would have much preferred OEM. I’ve had success with Barnett in my 1100 Suzies but love OEM 👍
 

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2006 VTX1800N3 Stock except for Barnette Clutch Springs
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How fast are you going in 5th when you "Get on it"? Anything less than around 65-70, you should probably downshift to 4th, then get on it.
When I travel in regular traffic I dont notice it, but say if I went to pass a car, the engine will rev way up and the clutch has to catch up like Im letting out of the clutch handle very slowly. Its definitely slipping.
 

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5th gear is for highways and above 70mph. If you're in traffic and going less than 70, downshift to 4th then hit the throttle. These are 2 enormous pistons and if you hit the throttle when you're lugging the engine the clutch is going to slip. You can't ride a big V twin like a high revving crotch rocket V4

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There are a ton of theories out there as to why this can happen with a new clutch.

The big one is, did you soak the friction disks before installation?

Did you offset the last friction disk?

Did you install new steel disks or re-use the old ones? You can re-use the old ones if they are not discolored, but it's important to prep them by scuffing them with scotchbrite beforehand.

Did you measure the stack height?

Did you install new clutch springs?

If all of that checks out, you will need to verify hydraulic function.
 

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If you answered 'yes' to all of Harkons questions, you have covered the basics. The step of cleaning (deglazing) the steel plates is important. Sometimes scotch brite just don't cut it. You can use a 400 grit wet/dry sanding sheet with a block to do a better job of reconditioning the steels. Diesel fuel is a good fluid for this. Scotch Brite is often recommended to eliminate the chance of getting grit in engine. Use sanding sheet and then wash the plates with soapy water. Rinse. Use forced air to dry. If you are sure steels are OK, make sure that there is NO contact between pressure plate and push rod when clutch is engaged (lever out). If there is, something is causing part of the hydraulic circuit to maintain pressure. Standard test for clutch function: Put bike in 1st gear. Attempt to push bike forward without pulling clutch. It should not move. Now, pull in clutch lever and attempt to push. Bike should roll.
 

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Hydraulic clutches mean they adjust themselves like hydraulic brakes.

It still doesn't mean it won't slip if he's cruising along in traffic at 45-50 in 5th and he hits the throttle hard. New or not, that clutch is going to slip
 

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2006 VTX1800N3 Stock except for Barnette Clutch Springs
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There are a ton of theories out there as to why this can happen with a new clutch.

The big one is, did you soak the friction disks before installation?

Did you offset the last friction disk?

Did you install new steel disks or re-use the old ones? You can re-use the old ones if they are not discolored, but it's important to prep them by scuffing them with scotchbrite beforehand.

Did you measure the stack height?

Did you install new clutch springs?

If all of that checks out, you will need to verify hydraulic function.
I didnt offset the last friction disk. I burt it. Bought new OEM rings and friction discs with barnett springs. Did it right this time and it works. If all else fails, read the instructions, I know. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I didnt offset the last friction disk. I burt it. Bought new OEM rings and friction discs with barnett springs. Did it right this time and it works. If all else fails, read the instructions, I know. Thanks for the help.
 
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