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Discussion Starter #1
I don't know if another thread is on this subject which there probably is. Can a recommendation for a clutch kit, please? I see a bunch on the web and as usual there's plenty out there but I want to make sure to get the proper one. I see them ranging from $60/kit to over $200/kit; quite a range. But then there's also the parts in the kit and what brand to go with? Please advise.

Thank you.
 

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Barnett or MTC are THE 2 brands most go with. Are you sure it's the clutch, and not because you recently changed oil and used one not recommended for a wet clutch? Some have made that mistake and not realized it.
 
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I would stick with OEM parts.
You know they will work.
If you think you need more clamping force on the clutch pack.
Shims can be added under the pressure plate springs.
Back in the day we used old spark plug washers one under each spring.
 

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Rare to change a clutch in a1300.
If you are into smoking tires then it is understandable.
Pulling a trailer???
How much "freeplay" on the clutch lever?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I didn't think to adjust the clutch lever tension. The bike only has 35k miles and thought it be a bit early for clutch change. No, I don't smoke the tires and I actually ride pretty conservatively. I noticed that the RPM would fluctuate as I go up an overpass, for instance, and reminded me of my Celica that showed similar behavior. First thought was that the clutch needs replacement. I checked around the shops and man is it expensive to have that work done.
Thanks for the reply and suggestions. I'll have to see about adjusting the cable free play before cracking it open.
 

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I didn't think to adjust the clutch lever tension. The bike only has 35k miles and thought it be a bit early for clutch change. No, I don't smoke the tires and I actually ride pretty conservatively. I noticed that the RPM would fluctuate as I go up an overpass, for instance, and reminded me of my Celica that showed similar behavior. First thought was that the clutch needs replacement. I checked around the shops and man is it expensive to have that work done.
Thanks for the reply and suggestions. I'll have to see about adjusting the cable free play before cracking it open.
Make sure your RPMs are adequate and most importantly your in the right gear and not lugging the bike...good luck
 
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Old Goat
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Unless I missed it ..dont see what bike u ride...but someone posted a tip back in the day For 1300...the gap where the cable is mounted to the lever and the post should be the width of 2 nickels...has worked for me for 14 years and 56k...good luck
 

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Explain "where the cable is mounted to the lever and the post".
 

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Old Goat
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Explain "where the cable is mounted to the lever and the post".
Ok might not have been proper terminology..for u restorers......but this...
I tell u its a bitch getting them nickels to stay in place.. ;)
 

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Keep your nickels in your pocket. I pull the lever until slack removed, than use the finger-thumb measuring tool from lever end to handlebar. I release the lever and if I have 5/8" - 3/4" freeplay all is good.
 

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Keep your nickels in your pocket. I pull the lever until slack removed, than use the finger-thumb measuring tool from lever end to handlebar. I release the lever and if I have 5/8" - 3/4" freeplay all is good.
U got your way...I got what works for me...thank you very. Much...
 

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Out of curiosity, mine passed the Double Nickel check.
 

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I always pass the double nickle test- it's too slow of a speed for the open road! Then there's the "Triple Nickle", oHIo rte. 555, a great riding road.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I went on my first ride after a couple of months due to worries about my clutch and life in general. I adjusted the cable to the nickel play and did an oil change. After reading the comments and admitting that I may have been worrying too much, Marilyn and I went out. Gave her a wash and polishing and off we went. The gear change still feels a little different from when I first got her but all in all she's okay. Thanks for the tips everyone. Ride safe and stay safe and healthy.
 
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