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Discussion Starter #1
An old subject and one that I have searched everywhere and cannot get a straight answer from anyone, including parts vendors.

I bought a Clutch Safety Switch replacement (two wire push the pin to change state) switch that is activated by the clutch lever movement. You should be able to start the bike in gear with kick stand up with clutch pulled in. It still isn't working. The one I bought from Ebay is NC in shelf state and opens when pin is fully depressed. Another guy with similar 1300 says his switch is NO. Mine is of China origin (in Honda package). I have two in fact from different years different seller's that are NC in shelf state. We can't find any confirmation that it should in fact be NC or NO in shelf state. No vendors can confirm. OEM lists don't specify. Wiring diagram shows it in NO state for our bikes. The guy with the NO one says his works. Another forum says it works in reverse; the switch is fully depressed with lever out and when you pull it in, the switch releases. That would make sense for a NC switch.
OEM PN is 35330-413-003

Are there two versions of that PN with NO and NC configurations? Is the switch one that you can take it apart and flip from NO to NC or visa versa? (I know the story about some aftermarket levers and having to grind the hump a bit to make it work. Honestly, I can't remember if it ever worked properly on my bike or not. I feel that it has and now it doesn't.

Can anybody confirm information about this switch?
 

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It makes no sense for the switch to be NO with the clutch lever pulled. A NO circuit would be the same as disconnecting the wires. Jump the two wires together and see if your bikes starts in gear, kick stand up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It makes no sense for the switch to be NO with the clutch lever pulled. A NO circuit would be the same as disconnecting the wires. Jump the two wires together and see if your bikes starts in gear, kick stand up.
I appreciate your comment and to give more details, I spent many hours with this and we have loads of posts on it at the VTX Modifications FB page.

The bottom line is, testing on the bench with my 3 year old and two week old switch yields NC in shelf state, open actuated. Obviously, if I mount it on the bike and attach wires and leave the lever off the clutch pedestal, it's going to be NC and the bike will start in gear (and it does crank as proved). When fully depressed, open circuit, no crank. BUT, when the lever is put on, the switch is open circuited throughout it's movement out or in. Apparently the hump on the lever is fully pressing the pin on the switch all the way through it's movement. (It is an aftermarket lever). Now like I said, an old forum post described that the lever is pushing on the pin until it is pulled in all the way thus releasing the pin.

But, another rider with a VTX 1300 is telling me he measured his switch to be normally open in the shelf state. And that implies the lever isn't hitting the pin until it's pulled in. He says the switch is working correctly.

And here lies the dilemma. I don't want to grind the hump on my lever until I am clear about the switch shelf state.

So really what I'm asking is someone else who has a VTX 1300 take off your clutch lever for a minute and measure the continuity of the clutch switch and tell me if it's NC or NO. I would like it to be an OEM switch; not a China one. And after ohming, and re-assembly, tell me that it works as designed and bike starts in gear with clutch in and stand up.
 

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You have an after market lever and it is preventing the contacts from closing when the lever is pulled.
That used to be a common issue.
Filing something on the new lever was the cure..
Compare levers..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You have an after market lever and it is preventing the contacts from closing when the lever is pulled.
That used to be a common issue.
Filing something on the new lever was the cure..
Compare levers..
Yes, I mentioned that thanks. And if I had confidence that there isn't some other version of the switch, I would concur. I read that whole thread from years ago about filing but no one was clear of the switch function. As an example, as a test, I put a bolt in the clutch lever pivot hole that is a few mm smaller than the OEM bolt. That gave it some wiggle room to move the lever while pulled in away from the switch pin a bit. Even at that, it would not release the switch enough. Measurement wise, the aftermarket one is not that much different as far as hump size in mm than an OEM (got a full size image of OEM off a site).

I don't have an OEM one to compare it to. Bought the bike used 10 years ago.

If I can get someone to spend a few minutes measuring their OEM switch on their VTX 1300 with a meter, I would be grateful.
 

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Clutch Switch Normally Open when lever is in the Normal position(Hands off)
The only way it could serve in a safety environment and the operator has to operate the lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Clutch Switch Normally Open when lever is in the Normal position(Hands off)
The only way it could serve in a safety environment and the operator has to operate the lever.
Agreed; "switch must be open with lever in non-pulled position". This protects bike from starting in gear without clutch in. Got it.

BUT, that doesn't clarify if the the switch itself has pin pushed in with lever out and held in open position, or pin is out and pulling lever in pushes on it. The difference between using a NC versus a NO switch. And that is my key need; either the knowledge of mechanically how the lever is working with the switch (and that is unclear) or an ohm'ed out switch in shelf state. You can't really see mechanically what the lever is doing and when.

I do believe, as you do, that it is being held actuated which would mean NC switch, and that would steer toward the aftermarket levers being a problem if they are holding the switch open prematurely. It is only another owner who is clearly telling me the opposite is true that his bike's switch is NO for his VTX 1300 that is forcing me to get some direct evidence of function.

This sketch would reflect if a NC switch were used. The opposite would be true if a NO switch were used:

 

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only way for someone to answer your question.

dig out meter.. disassemble clutch control... measure and eye ball ...

I am not home... tools at home. and I am not disassembling my bike 1,800 miles from home.. using factory Honda tool kit. in the little bag... when there is nothing wrong with my bike.

Sorry.

good luck to you..

and MY Opinion.
now when I was home.. to help Philscbx.. for fuel pump connectors question... I did disassemble my bike..
seat, computer, battery....

RIP. Phil.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No worries. I'll figure it out I guess the hard way. Easier to get a compare from someone else.
 

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Jeff,
The below drawing shows the metal piece on the clutch lever that manipulates the switch when the clutch lever is pulled to the grip.


It is very simple to confirm if your switch is working correctly. Put a multimeter on it and you should see an open circuit with the lever all the way out. You should also see a closed circuit with the lever pulled all the way to the grip. If you experience those two results, you need to start tracing wire through the rest of the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Jeff,
The below drawing shows the metal piece on the clutch lever that manipulates the switch when the clutch lever is pulled to the grip.


It is very simple to confirm if your switch is working correctly. Put a multimeter on it and you should see an open circuit with the lever all the way out. You should also see a closed circuit with the lever pulled all the way to the grip. If you experience those two results, you need to start tracing wire through the rest of the circuit.
Yes sir, and thank you for your post.

However, that I know. I am aware that the "hump" on the lever pushes on the pin to activate it. That's a given.

The two OEM number switches I have (one for sure comes from China) measure NC in shelf state. In the clutch pedestal with lever inserted, it is pressing on it fully to Open it. Whether the lever is out or the lever is in.

This tells me the lever hump is most likely depressing the pin throughout the open/close movement of the lever.

A FB friend on the VTX Modifications page has verified his switch is the opposite electrically (NO shelf state versus NC). And verified it is the same PN. I believe he has an OEM lever and I have an Aftermarket one.

Before I file the hump on my lever, I need a third party with an OEM switch to please tell me (by removing the lever and clutch switch wires) the shelf state measurement of their switch. NO or NC and if it functions as it should to allow the bike to start in gear. That's what I'm looking for. If the 2nd person's is NO as well then I have to believe someone is selling incorrectly made switches. If it is NC like mine, then I will be more confident that I need to file the hump to make it work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got the answer I needed from the FB VTX Modification page. A third guy ohmed his out on bench and it was as mine was, NC. The first guy was not checking it properly and got it wrong. It should be NC. I had to file about 3 mm of metal off the hump area near the front edge of the triangular shape to finally get it working properly on the aftermarket lever. Obviously, that switch never worked on my bike. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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