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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone! I have a 2003 VTX 1800R with a K&N air filter, DynoJet Power Commander III and Freedom 2 into 1 exhaust. It's always run great (but maybe a little rich). Now when it gets warmed up it is cutting out on me-especially when I get on the highway. I've got almost 14K miles on it now and know it's probably time for valve adjustments and all that. Any advice on what might be going on and/or if it's time to take it to someone who really knows what they're doing (and have to pay for it)! Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
 

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First thing is to check your battery terminal connections. Make sure they are clean and tight. Use a socket wrench to tighten them.

Has the "ground fix" been done? If not that would be your next step.

Any "Vampire" type wire splices used on the power commander wiring? Those are known to cut through the wires and should be soldered instead.

Hope this helps and keep us posted as to what you find to help others.

You should also update your profile with your bike info then you would not have to type all of it each time you have a question.
 
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Does she fire up and run nicely when cold and cut out when warm/hot?
 

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After trying what Jim Travis said, it could be the Fuel pressure regulator (FPR) the first couple years of these beasts are more commonly having this issue, as the little diaphragms in them dry out and crack, a factor of old age, not overuse or misuse. This condition allows fuel to leak into the cylinders and into the crankcase. Located just under the left side of the fuel tank between the jugs, held in place by 2 small bolts, with a couple hoses coming off. $40, + or -, will get you a new one. A telltale sign it's going bad is a strong fuel smell in your oil, or an over-full reading on the dipstick. Don't ride like this- no lube for the bearings. Change the FPR, change your oil filter and oil, using a cheap brand to flush out the contaminants. Run it around the block, then change just the oil a 2nd time using whatever good oil you prefer. Let us know what you find.
 

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After trying what Jim Travis said, it could be the Fuel pressure regulator (FPR) the first couple years of these beasts are more commonly having this issue, as the little diaphragms in them dry out and crack, a factor of old age, not overuse or misuse. This condition allows fuel to leak into the cylinders and into the crankcase. Located just under the left side of the fuel tank between the jugs, held in place by 2 small bolts, with a couple hoses coming off. $40, + or -, will get you a new one. A telltale sign it's going bad is a strong fuel smell in your oil, or an over-full reading on the dipstick. Don't ride like this- no lube for the bearings. Change the FPR, change your oil filter and oil, using a cheap brand to flush out the contaminants. Run it around the block, then change just the oil a 2nd time using whatever good oil you prefer. Let us know what you find.
You're right, if it's running really rich, possibly the FPR, but that does not at all explain the cutting out. A failed FPR won't have the bike cutting out on the freeway.


Based on what he's described, I would point in the direction of the PCIII.
 

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Reading about the FPR for the n-th time.

I have a 2003 1800s, 91,000 miles, no problems whatsoever.
Is the FPR a part that is guaranteed to break and therefore should be proactively replaced?
Or just leave alone?
 

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Reading about the FPR for the n-th time.

I have a 2003 1800s, 91,000 miles, no problems whatsoever.
Is the FPR a part that is guaranteed to break and therefore should be proactively replaced?
Or just leave alone?

let me say.. if you do have the original FPR.. you hold the record...
time and mileage...


for the cutting out...
side stand switch...

run/stop switch
and there wires..
even the key switch..
 

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Reading about the FPR for the n-th time.

I have a 2003 1800s, 91,000 miles, no problems whatsoever.
Is the FPR a part that is guaranteed to break and therefore should be proactively replaced?
Or just leave alone?
Yes, they fail due to age, not mileage. So replace it if it hasn't been already
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks so much, Jim and everyone else! I'm digging in to it over the next few days and I'll post what I find!
 

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Do yourself a favor today and now to test issues.
Not sure how your PCMIII is connected, but by pass it.
Disconnect it and connect OEM set up.
My Bike being an 02 had the cut out issue, ground fault in 03 riding back from CO VTX shindig.
I later added PCMIII, and it had issues, bike would run good but started acting all, ****ed.
Bypassed it, and bike ran like new. Removed all aspects of PCMIII still, but think I need to do plates.
Have rhinehardt flush cuts, with over 20k on em, either need to pack em or just love the POP/POP/THWAP.
PEACE
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hello again. Thanks to everyone here for all the great input and ideas! This is such a great forum with so many knowledgeable riders. What a great resource. As it turns out, I did the "ground fix" and put in some new plugs and it's running great. I just finished a nice long ride and it was perfect. I'm going to keep an eye on the other things mentioned here, too. The old plugs appear to have been a little carbon fouled. Should I change out the FPR anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks, Merry Prankster! Don't know why but I've felt a little suspicious of the PCMIII since I really got to know my bike well. Even on the leanest PCMIII settings the bike still seems to run rich and I get crappy MPG.
 

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Yes, change the FPR. It fails due to age, not mileage.

You can always take the PC3 off the bike and see how it runs. If the previous owner had it mapped, it was most likely made for max horsepower, so over rich. They have also failed before and as the PC3 was around in 2003, it may be very very old
 

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Are you getting any trouble codes - blinking FI light ? I had a PCIII and was having problems, was getting trouble code 8 ( eight flashes on the red FI light ) which was the code for TP sensor. On mine, The wire that connected the PCIII to the TP sensor wire was broken because of the vampire connector that was used on a lot of these. Soldered up the broken wire and it did good for a couple more years, then had other problems with the PCIII. Removed the PCIII and went back to the OEM setup in 2017 and have had no more issues. On the OEM setup the engine isn't quite as smooth at low speeds as it was with the PCIII but worth it not to have the headache. Replacing the FPR is a good idea and should be done. I did mine in 2013 just cost about $25 then and took about 40 minutes to change with basic tools. Tightening the battery terminals with a wrench, not a screw driver fixes a lot of issues. Doing the ground fix as mentioned here is also a must.
 
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