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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to do the Biglry's desmog and I'm wondering when disconnecting the electrical plug on the pair valve, does this set the fi light on because the ecm not getting a signal when its all removed?? I modified my stock exhaust gutted it and have a 2" outlet and I just ordered a kuryakan pro charger air cleaner,
should I get a module or will it be okay??
thanks
 

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You won;t get any FI codes by doing the PAIR removal.


Should you get a module? I'll assume you mean a fuel manager.

Is a fuel manager needed?
Are they needed? The short answer is, No. They are not needed, but you might want to add one to get the best possible performance and fuel mileage out of the additions. Most members run without a fuel manager while having aftermarket air intakes and exhaust and have no problems at all. The following is from the “Sticky” thread called,“Air,Fuel,Motor,Missives…” and the first post by Tapper. The entire post is filled with great information on the VTX engine.


Originally Posted by Tapper


After Market Fuel Computers

This is a good time to talk about aftermarket fuel controllers, so lets hit on what they do real quick. The 1300 guys can manipulate their A/F ratios by changing jets, but it’s a bit more complex (and expensive) for the 1800 riders. For the VTX, there are basically three types of controller available. All three do exactly the same thing – they manipulate the amount of time the injectors are turned on during the intake stroke, by intercepting the voltage the ECU sends to the injectors. How the decide how much longer or shorter to turn the injector on, varies a bit though, and that variety is important thing to know when selecting which controller to use on your bike (if in fact you choose to use on at all – none of them are ever really necessary, regardless of what pipes or airboxes you add on to the bike.)


It’s also important to understand this: None of these controllers is ever a necessity, regardless of whether you change pipes or airboxes on your bike. The stock ECU will, in almost every case, adjust to the changes in airflow you’ve caused, and give you a reasonably good A/F ratio.
But you should understand, that the ECU is not programmed to give you an A/F ratio that is optimized for horsepower from the factory – instead, Honda worries about things like pollution, engine temperature, and rider perception, and so the ECU can be said to be “de-tuned” in order to address these other concerns. So the real function of these add-on controllers is to correct the error (or eliminate the de-tuning) that Honda induced in your fuel curve on purpose, in order to reclaim the lost horsepower and improve engine efficiency (possibly at the cost of making more pollution, hearing more deceleration backfiring, etc). Adding on aftermarket pipes or airboxes can sometimes exaggerate this de-tuning as well, so we need to be able to modify our fuel curves to match the configuration of our bikes. Got that? These boxes aren’t necessary, but if you’re hunting more horses, they can sure find them.


 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes thats what I mean, so no lights or codes with the pair valve unplugged?

wow I know on a car if you disconnect a sensor and then turn the key on it will store a code and kick the light on. I just hate lights on the dash.
I just want a clear throttle response with no lag so I will be getting a fuel manager.. looks like the pc 3 is the one to get?
 

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I am looking to do the desmog myself, just need the block offs and I will be ready to rock and roll!! Looking forward to it! This and intake mod on Bares page.
 

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So is there a hp improvement
When swapping exhaust pipes, removing the pair system will help reduce or eliminate the decell pop we read so much about. No performance gains, no fuel mileage increase, just better sounds/deeper note from the exhaust.
 
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