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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of doing the valves for the first time, and figured that I would do the DeSmog mod while I have the tank off. Had a bit of trouble...

When I got the gasket plate off, I tried to pry off the metal tabs (#2 and 3 in the walkthrough) and the dang thing snapped in half. The walkthrough said if that happened I could use JB Weld, so I wasnt too worried...until it snapped in half again! Same thing happened for the other gasket plate.

So, my question is have any of you successfully done the mod just using the block off plates without the gaskets? I loaded everything up with high temp RTV and tightened the bolts down really good. It seems to have a good seal...I just dont want to have to get back in there again.

Last question -- if there is a leak (now, or in the future) what kind of symptoms would I see?

Thanks for your help...

-eSlon
 

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If you are talking about this pic below, than 2 and 3 are tossed away anyway. You were not supposed to pry those off, you were supposed to unscrew the little screw and take the reed off easily. The gasket is on part 4 and that is all you need for it to seal.

 

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I tried like heck to break the screw free and could not on either valve. I gave it up, tossed the valve assemblies, and used silicone on the plates as you did.
 

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and this is why Bones' plates are preferred because all you
do is remove the big ugly cast cover on the PAIR valve
and install the new plates.

way easier, way nicer.

same cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you are talking about this pic below, than 2 and 3 are tossed away anyway. You were not supposed to pry those off, you were supposed to unscrew the little screw and take the reed off easily. The gasket is on part 4 and that is all you need for it to seal.

Thats what I was going for...to get #4 by itself. The walkthrough says to pry 2 and 3 off because the screw is not easy to get out (I can attest to that -- tried it). I ended up with the gasket in three pieces...oops.

In hindsight, I would have ordered Bones' covers so it all would have been kept together.

Since I already finished it and siliconed the covers on there, I am going to leave it and see how it does. What would be some telltale signs that the seal isnt good enough?

-eSlon
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I tried like heck to break the screw free and could not on either valve. I gave it up, tossed the valve assemblies, and used silicone on the plates as you did.
Good to hear I'm not the only one. I'll hope I got it sealed well...

-eSlon
 

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I hope you used high temp silicone, if not it will melt and burn in that area. If it started to leak, you would start getting a lot of decell popping, and eventually it would start popping all the time.
 

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pair valveq

Spike, How hard is it to remove the screw? What pointers could you give me in removing the screw?
 

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A good pair of vice grips, just grab the screw head and twist off the head and the reed will come right off.

Or, use a Dremel to cut a slot in the screw to get a straight blade screwdriver on it.

Or, use the Dremel to cut the head off the screw.
 

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The fastest and easiest way to remove the screws (like 5 seconds) is to take a vice gripe or similar tool and (nose first) lock onto the screw and turn. The screw will snap and the everything will come apart. Throw away everything except #4. Also if your worried about the seal because you broke yours pick up new ones at the dealer and just do what I've explained above.
I've done about ???? maybe 50+ like this over the last 4+ years and never broke the pare valve seal/plate.

BTW I don"t want to take credit for this method. Someone in our group showed me.....pass it on and pay it forward.

Mark
 

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BTW I don't use (anymore) the rubber nipple caps to block off the vacuum line on the throttle body because they dry/heat rot and crack.
I do use now 1 1/2" piece of vacuum line blocked with silicone and a solid rivet or screw.
 

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Thats what I was going for...to get #4 by itself. The walkthrough says to pry 2 and 3 off because the screw is not easy to get out (I can attest to that -- tried it). I ended up with the gasket in three pieces...oops.


-eSlon
Exact same thing happened to me. I used high-temp RTV but also bought some gasket material from the local AutoZone and cut out some gaskets in the pattern of what I destroyed. A little of the HT-RTV on each side, torque them down to the proper specs, and they've been good for the past two riding seasons. That puts something more substantial between the two pieces of metal.

HB
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I hope you used high temp silicone, if not it will melt and burn in that area. If it started to leak, you would start getting a lot of decell popping, and eventually it would start popping all the time.
Yup, I used the high temp stuff. I caked it on there pretty good, so I am hoping it will hold. I will keep the seal in mind if I hear any decel popping.

Thank you all for your help.

-eSlon
 

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and this is why Bones' plates are preferred because all you
do is remove the big ugly cast cover on the PAIR valve
and install the new plates.

way easier, way nicer.

same cost.
Exactly...............................

On my scooter, I removed the valves entirely and then cut gaskets to match the Barons Plates. I used automotive header gasket material about 4 years ago with zero sealant used. No leaks as of yet!

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Bones plates

Hey fellas, where do I get the bones plates? I will be doing this mod along with putting on all the new parts I ordered from Direct line when I get home in a few months. Thanks in advance.
 

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A good pair of vice grips, just grab the screw head and twist off the head and the reed will come right off.

Or, use a Dremel to cut a slot in the screw to get a straight blade screwdriver on it.

Or, use the Dremel to cut the head off the screw.
I used the third method and found out it is the best after damaging a valve with other methods
 

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Thanks

Thanks fellas, ordered two sets one for me and one for my brother! Bone was a really nice guy and very helpful.:thumbup:
 

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removing the screw

Spike, Will the other pieces come off then or do you have to pry them off? Does all of the screw come off or are you breaking it off?
A good pair of vice grips, just grab the screw head and twist off the head and the reed will come right off.

Or, use a Dremel to cut a slot in the screw to get a straight blade screwdriver on it.

Or, use the Dremel to cut the head off the screw.
 
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