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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently did the valves on the 1800 and I think I did something wrong so I'm going to check them again this weekend and need a little advice. When I line up the mark on the crank should both sets of valves, meaning exhaust and intake have play in them at the same time? Or, since this is a 4-stroke engine , do I need to set the crank for one set and the turn it again for the other? Not trying to be confusing but the last time I did it when I would set the crank the exhaust valve would have play in it and the intakes would be tight. Turn it one more time and it's the opposite. The exhaust would be tight and the intakes would have play. Realizing that it's a 4 stoke engine on one compression it intakes and then the next it exhausts. Anyway that's how I did it last time and wanna make sure I'm not screwing something up. Just for informations sake , the first couple of times I had them checked I had it done at the dealer. Not confident that they were actually doing anything besides taking my money I had help from Hoss37 last spring. But since I'm old and senile I honestly don't remember if we set the crank just once for each head or we turned it twice for each head.
Or am not getting the crank at TDC?

By the way...it has that nice sewing machine sound but it' a really pissed off sewing maching. The valves are quite audible when the engine is running. I noticed on last weekends ride I could hear them while riding. Seems to run fine but I'm just not comfortable with it and want to check them again to be sure.
 

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The baffles are set at tdc on the commission stroke. The easiest way to set the engine at that position is to remove the valve inspection covers and watch the valves. After the intake valves shut set the timing mark for that cylinder and it will be at tdc on the commission stroke
 

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Few more things on valve adjustment. Depending on what pipes you have you may or may not have to remove you pipes. I have big shots on my bike but with a cut off allenwrench I can remove the two screws that are behind the pipe holding the cover. It is a little challenging but saves you from having to remove the pipes. I even leave the one screw out that is directly behind the pipe since it just holds the cover on and there isn't any oil behind it.

also if you don't have a long 4mm wrench for the valve adj screw .... what I did was buy a 1/2 x 1/8 x 12 in. flat stock at Lowes and notched it with a file which was 4mm or close and gave it a little bend and now you have a 4mm wrench. It doesn't have to be strong since it isn't going to take any torque, you just have to hold the adj screw while you tighten the jam nut on it.

It will sound like a sewing machine when you have the adjustment correct.

You can also do all this without removing your tank as well if you just prop it up. It will no doubt be easier to do with tank removed but if you have a full tank you'll have to drain it first.
 

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A Quick way to know that cylinder is on compression stroke -

Pull the two plugs on that side -

Key on - bump the starter with finger near the hole - as soon as compression is felt -
now dial it by hand to timing mark.

Both int / exh should be noticed slack.

If you have a heavy duty wire tie 6" or longer - now stick it in the cylinder -
By Hand - move crank back & forth to see wire tie move to it's highest point.
 

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I recently did the valves on the 1800 and I think I did something wrong so I'm going to check them again this weekend and need a little advice. When I line up the mark on the crank should both sets of valves, meaning exhaust and intake have play in them at the same time? Or, since this is a 4-stroke engine , do I need to set the crank for one set and the turn it again for the other? Not trying to be confusing but the last time I did it when I would set the crank the exhaust valve would have play in it and the intakes would be tight. Turn it one more time and it's the opposite. The exhaust would be tight and the intakes would have play. Realizing that it's a 4 stoke engine on one compression it intakes and then the next it exhausts. Anyway that's how I did it last time and wanna make sure I'm not screwing something up. Just for informations sake , the first couple of times I had them checked I had it done at the dealer. Not confident that they were actually doing anything besides taking my money I had help from Hoss37 last spring. But since I'm old and senile I honestly don't remember if we set the crank just once for each head or we turned it twice for each head.
Or am not getting the crank at TDC?

By the way...it has that nice sewing machine sound but it' a really pissed off sewing maching. The valves are quite audible when the engine is running. I noticed on last weekends ride I could hear them while riding. Seems to run fine but I'm just not comfortable with it and want to check them again to be sure.
I done mine... I lined up timing mark FT and set all 3 valves on front cylinder...Turned crank to RT setting and adjusted rear cylinder... Runs great and sounds like a very quite sewing machine...
Make sure that you turn crank "ONLY" clockwise... If I'm wrong, someone please let me now...
 

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Few more things on valve adjustment. Depending on what pipes you have you may or may not have to remove you pipes. I have big shots on my bike but with a cut off allenwrench I can remove the two screws that are behind the pipe holding the cover. It is a little challenging but saves you from having to remove the pipes. I even leave the one screw out that is directly behind the pipe since it just holds the cover on and there isn't any oil behind it.

also if you don't have a long 4mm wrench for the valve adj screw .... what I did was buy a 1/2 x 1/8 x 12 in. flat stock at Lowes and notched it with a file which was 4mm or close and gave it a little bend and now you have a 4mm wrench. It doesn't have to be strong since it isn't going to take any torque, you just have to hold the adj screw while you tighten the jam nut on it.

It will sound like a sewing machine when you have the adjustment correct.

You can also do all this without removing your tank as well if you just prop it up. It will no doubt be easier to do with tank removed but if you have a full tank you'll have to drain it first.
Honda put a cut off allen wrench in the tool kit...
 

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YES, both sets of valves are closed on compression. So the valve tappets are loose ( rocker arms) Set the crank on TDC compression set ALL tappets for that cylinder. Then rotate for next cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok I've go the bike torn down again and rechecking everything however I'm having an issue getting the crank set. When I turn the crank and set it on FT I have no wiggle at all in the rockers. Spin it around again and set it on F then I have the wiggle I'm looking for. I used a chopstick, yes a chopstick and stuck it in the shallow hole and it seems to be at the top of the revolution when set on F and not FT. Same with the rear jug, I have wiggle in the rockers when set on F and not RT. Tried the chopstick again an it seems to be at TDC when on the F mark.
So is this ok or am I doing something wrong? The instructions clearly say FT and RT but I have zero play in the rockers at that setting.
 

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That's why I stated bumping the engine with button to feel compression blow finger away -

Is absolute compression stroke to finish moving to the top by hand.

It can be spun as many times you want - but when the huff comes due - jog the button.
The stroke is long - plenty of room to finish by hand.

Slack should be felt at TDC of timing marks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, funny thing happened on the way to the forum. I went around and did what minor adjustments were needed. Then started over, this time I had play in the rockers on the FT and RT settings. And just now finished readjusting all of them once again. Gonna spin the crank a couple of times an check yet again.


What a pain in the arse!!
 

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Mine is ft/rt. I am not sure of the position of the "f" mark. IF the "f" mark is pretty close to the ft mark might not matter. IF both sets of valves are loose you should be at TDC. Hell set the valves at "f" and see what they look like at ft/rt. IN any case you are looking for the set points ie .012 to be the maximum rocker clearance. Just not familiar with the 1800
 

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Valves should be loose every other revolution

You are describing TDC on the exhaust/intake stroke when the exhaust valves are about to close and the intake valve has just opened.

If FT is tight then once around again will be TDC on the compression stroke which is when everything is closed and you will have clearance. (lash)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wrapped it up about an hour ago. Crank set on RT and FT. Went over it a couple of times. Last time no adjustments needed. Put it all back together and fired it up. Sounds so much better than it did. I think the valves are as close to perfect as I can get them. Thanks to everyone for all the tips.
 

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A Quick way to know that cylinder is on compression stroke -

Pull the two plugs on that side -

Key on - bump the starter with finger near the hole - as soon as compression is felt -
now dial it by hand to timing mark.

Both int / exh should be noticed slack.

If you have a heavy duty wire tie 6" or longer - now stick it in the cylinder -
By Hand - move crank back & forth to see wire tie move to it's highest point.
i do that with 1/4" wood dowel rod.
 

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I just put my finger over the spark plug hole, and turn the engine over by the crank bolt, when I feel my finger blow off, I then get the light and look in the timing hole and get FT or RT (depending on the cyl I'm doing) mark lined up... motor turns over easy enouhg with a plug out of each cyl.
 

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Mine sounds like a sewing machine. Sorta. Take it apart and check and everything is in spec. Take another thou out of the lash and it quiets it a fuzz. Synthetic oil seems to make more noise.
 
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