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Discussion Starter #1
Mounting of the 250-1223 Fully Electronic Cruise Control by Rostra


Things you will need for this install


250-1223 module
250-3593 dash switch
250-4369 splitter
4 foot of 14 gauge stranded wire. I chose green (cause im cheap and didnt wanna buy brown) to continue the brown from the power connection
rosin core solder
various electrical connectors
5 foot of 3/8” corrugated tubing
15” zip ties, 3” zip ties
shrink wrap for all electrical connections, black tape for the others
2 u bolts with 4 lock nuts (these fit over the swing arm so buy accordingly
Throttle cable mount

  1. remove the battery, the battery box, pull your headlamp, remove the gas tank.
    ( picture 1  )
  2. Put the 2 u bolts with threads going down on the cross member in front of the rear tire. Snug up the cross plates that come with the U bolts. Leave about a 1/4” from the bottom of the cross member. ( picture 2  )
  3. The kit comes with 2 options to mount the servo, an L shaped bracket and a black bracket. Get the L shaped bracket and mount the straight side toward the side of the module with the wires coming out.
    ( picture 3  )
  4. Make sure to set your dip switches now, as getting the module off is a rather annoying prospect just to change 1 switch. So here is the list
    1. on
    2. off
    3. off
    4. on
    5. on
    6. on
    7. on
    8. off
    9. off
    10. on
    11. off
    12. off
  5. With a u bolt on each side of the swing arm and the ¼ “ provided. There is enough slack to allow for the servo to be slipped into place. Start with the left side first, slide the bracket in far enough to allow for the other end of the L bracket to be slid into place. Once in place, tighten down the U bolts and make sure the lock nuts are in place and tight. I suggest putting blue lock-tight on any nuts.
  6. Ok to keep things straight here, pull the wires from the servo straight out and worry about them later.
  7. Route the throttle cable up and along the backbone of the bike. ( picture 4  ) I chose to mount the cable just under the backbone about 3 inches in front of the rear coil. Make sure the cable is directly across from the throttle cables. I mounted my throttle cable with the 2 nuts provided and the throttle cable mount. Make threads 1” with 1 nut, put the mount on, and tighten the second nut down to snug. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN bad things can happen! ( picture 5  )
  8. The kit comes with 5 or more different connections. Get the wire loop and put it on with the throttle spring holding it in position. ( Picture 6  ) On page 10 of the manual it shows how to connect the bead chain connectors and the lengths needed to make the control work properly. Make sure to follow the directions given, as it makes a large difference in how well the cruise control works.
  9. Now for the fun part. Wiring the beast to your beast.
  10. There are only 6 wires taken to the headlight. The 4 pin connector, the black and the grey wire. The 4 pin connector has a power connection that is connected to a 4 amp fuse. Cut the 4 amp fuse holder off, strip, solder and shrink wrap the extra wire to the one that you just cut off. There are 2 plug connectors, cut the one off that does not have the red, black, yellow and green. Cut the wires about 2” behind the plug. The grey wire will need to be soldered, wrapped and taken forward with the 4 pin connector. The wires that were cut will be connected to the bike under the seat. I do not like messy wires so I sheathed everything in 3/8 corrugated wire wrap. Use small zip ties and black tape to keep the ends closed and were you pull a wire out to connect it, use black tape to keep the wrap closed. I also chose to solder every connection. Do a section at a time and go over it twice to make sure its right before you make the change permanent. (the power connection from the 12v+ connection, 4 pin connector wires, and the black ground wire) ( picture 7  ) * note my picture shows 2 green wires. the dark green wire would be the optional color you chose as the power to the 4 pin connector, the dark green is connected to the red for reference. I also couldn't salvage my grey wire so I replaced it with a brown one.
  11. Wiring under the seat.
    1. Black → ground wire, connect to the ground by the brake manifold
    2. Brown → power wire, connect to the external fuse block
    3. Red → power wire, connect to the brown wire
    4. Violet → brake wire, connect to the green w/ yellow stripe by the fuse block (original)
    5. Blue → tachometer wire, connect to the rear coil, outside plug
  12. Wiring in the headlight
    1. Splitter wiring
      1. Yellow → grey from the harness
      2. Black → ground
      3. Green → pink with green stripe
      4. Red → brown from the 4 pin connector
    2. Dash switch
      1. Connect the 4 pin connector
      2. White → brown from the 4 pin connector
      3. Black → ground
      4. Grey (from the dash switch) → power connector, connect to the red from the 4 pin
  13. Test all your connections. If you have a helping hand its a good thing. Use the self diagnostics mode. The manual will tell you how to get into that mode( page 20). The switch I'm using is an open circuit control switch.
  14. If everything checks out, go for a ride and enjoy your new Cruise control
Thanks to Fast600 for making my life ALOT easier with the dip settings and wire colors. Man u rock!
 

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Mounting of the 250-1223 Fully Electronic Cruise Control by Rostra


Things you will need for this install


250-1223 module
250-3593 dash switch
250-4369 splitter
4 foot of 14 gauge stranded wire. I chose green (cause im cheap and didnt wanna buy brown) to continue the brown from the power connection
rosin core solder
various electrical connectors
5 foot of 3/8” corrugated tubing
15” zip ties, 3” zip ties
shrink wrap for all electrical connections, black tape for the others
2 u bolts with 4 lock nuts (these fit over the swing arm so buy accordingly


  1. remove the battery, the battery box, pull your headlamp, remove the gas tank.
  2. Put the 2 u bolts with threads going down on the cross member in front of the rear tire. Snug up the cross plates that come with the U bolts. Leave about a 1/4” from the bottom of the cross member.
  3. The kit comes with 2 options to mount the servo, an L shaped bracket and a black bracket. Get the L shaped bracket and mount the straight side toward the side of the module with the wires coming out.
  4. Make sure to set your dip switches now, as getting the module off is a rather annoying prospect just to change 1 switch. So here is the list
    1. on
    2. off
    3. off
    4. on
    5. on
    6. on
    7. on
    8. off
    9. off
    10. on
    11. off
    12. off
  5. With a u bolt on each side of the swing arm and the ¼ “ provided. There is enough slack to allow for the servo to be slipped into place. Start with the left side first, slide the bracket in far enough to allow for the other end of the L bracket to be slid into place. Once in place, tighten down the U bolts and make sure the lock nuts are in place and tight. I suggest putting blue lock-tight on any nuts.
  6. Ok to keep things straight here, pull the wires from the servo straight out and worry about them later.
  7. Route the throttle cable up and along the backbone of the bike.
    I chose to mount the cable just under the backbone about 3 inches in front of the rear coil. Make sure the cable is directly across from the throttle cables. I mounted my throttle cable with the 2 nuts provided and the throttle cable mount. Make threads 1” with 1 nut, put the mount on, and tighten the second nut down to snug. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN bad things can happen!
  8. The kit comes with 5 or more different connections. Get the wire loop and put it on with the throttle spring holding it
    in position. On page 10 of the manual it shows how to connect the bead chain connectors and the lengths needed to make the control work properly. Make sure to follow the directions given, as it makes a large difference in how well the cruise control works.
  9. Now for the fun part. Wiring the beast to your beast.
  10. There are only 6 wires taken to the headlight. The 4 pin connector, the black and the grey wire. The 4 pin connector has a power connection that is connected to a 4 amp fuse. Cut the 4 amp fuse holder off, strip, solder and shrink wrap the extra wire to the one that you just cut off. There are 2 plug connectors, cut the one off that does not have the red, black, yellow and green. Cut the wires about 2” behind the plug. The grey wire will need to be soldered, wrapped and taken forward with the 4 pin connector. The wires that were cut will be connected to the bike under the seat. I do not like messy wires so I sheathed everything in 3/8 corrugated wire wrap. Use small zip ties and black tape to keep the ends closed and were you pull a wire out to connect it, use black tape to keep the wrap closed. I also chose to solder every connection. Do a section at a time and go over it twice to make sure its right before you make the change permanent. (the power connection from the 12v+ connection, 4 pin connector wires, and the black ground wire) * note my picture shows 2 green wires. the dark green wire would be the optional color you chose as the power to the 4 pin connector, the dark green is connected to the red for reference. I also couldn't salvage my grey wire so I replaced it with a brown one.
  11. Wiring under the seat.
    1. Black → ground wire, connect to the ground by the brake manifold
    2. Brown → power wire, connect to the external fuse block
    3. Red → power wire, connect to the brown wire
    4. Violet → brake wire, connect to the green w/ yellow stripe by the fuse block (original)
    5. Blue → tachometer wire, connect to the rear coil, outside plug
  12. Wiring in the headlight
    1. Splitter wiring
      1. Yellow → grey from the harness
      2. Black → ground
      3. Green → pink with green stripe
      4. Red → brown from the 4 pin connector
    2. Dash switch
      1. Connect the 4 pin connector
      2. White → brown from the 4 pin connector
      3. Black → ground
      4. Grey (from the dash switch) → power connector, connect to the red from the 4 pin
  13. Test all your connections. If you have a helping hand its a good thing. Use the self diagnostics mode. The manual will tell you how to get into that mode( page 20). The switch I'm using is an open circuit control switch.
  14. If everything checks out, go for a ride and enjoy your new Cruise control
Thanks to Fast600 for making my life ALOT easier with the dip settings and wire colors. Man u rock!
Awesome, thank you! :bowdown::thumbup::beer3:
 

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Mounting of the 250-1223 Fully Electronic Cruise Control by Rostra

Thanks to Fast600 for making my life ALOT easier with the dip settings and wire colors. Man u rock!
Your Welcome!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Excellent write up:bowdown: I am preparing to do this install on my 06 1800 C and had a question. In the headlight wiring, for the splitter, you call for the green wire of the splitter to connect to a pink wire with a green stripe. Where does this pink with green stripe come from and what is its function?:banghead:

Thank You
Jim
Wiring in the headlight
  1. Splitter wiring
    1. Yellow → grey from the harness
    2. Black → ground
    3. Green → pink with green stripe
    4. Red → brown from the 4 pin connector
the pink with green stripe is from the main harness, iir its the speedometer connecting wire.
 

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I'm sorry if I am a little thick on this,:banghead: but I have one more wiring question. in your write up you stated:

"There are only 6 wires taken to the headlight. The 4 pin connector, the black and the Grey wire."


Then in the "Wiring in the headlight" you wrote:

7. Wiring in the headlight



1. Splitter wiring
  1. Yellow Grey from the harness
  2. Black ground
  3. Green pink with green stripe
  4. Red brown from the 4 pin connector
Where does this Brown wire come from? :dontknow:


Thanks
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #6
  1. Wiring under the seat.
    1. Black → ground wire, connect to the ground by the brake manifold
    2. Brown → power wire, connect to the external fuse block
    3. Red → power wire, connect to the brown wire
    4. Violet → brake wire, connect to the green w/ yellow stripe by the fuse block (original)
    5. Blue → tachometer wire, connect to the rear coil, outside plug
basically I ran a power wire all the way up front as I have an external fuse block. just in case something goes haywire. the power wire that I ran up front just happened to be brown to match the power wire for the main servo connection. since the connector up front (4 pin connector) has a red wire that leeches power, I connected the brown to the red and have used the brown as my power up front, and the red for normal connections
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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08 1800N exception

1st GREAT write up, 2nd THANKS to Danater for the phone help.
What I found on the 08 1800N you will need to add a 5 position relay. I used Duralast part # 19387. ($18.00 at Auto Zone)
This is how I have it wired and according to the Global Cruise instructions.

Pin 85 -COLD side of brake (spliced in) to the green w/ yellow stripe by the fuse block. Behind right side cover
Pin 86 & 30 - to GROUND
Pin 87a - connects to the Violet wire from the main module.
The cold side has 6 volts on it. So the cruise does not kick off without the relay.

Papa T
 

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Dash Switch

Danater, Did you ever map the inside of the switch? Are we looking at some straight up fixed resistors and switches. I would like to make a nicer looking switch and housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Danater, Did you ever map the inside of the switch? Are we looking at some straight up fixed resistors and switches. I would like to make a nicer looking switch and housing.
I did but my splitter quit soon after I got the schematic drawn up for what I wanted. So all my energy has been turned to fixing that problem.
I think I found a fundamental flaw so im re-engineering the splitter to fix what I would call a problem and also to fix my fi #11 problem.
 

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Installed my new Rostra 250-1223

I do not understand why we have to use the 250-4369 signal spilter. I reviewed serveral posts in this forum and others, I even reviewed posts on other forums with the same type installations on other bikes and all of them are using the same signal splitter. I hooked mine up over the Christmas break without the splitter and all the safety systems are working however, I am not getting a clean signal from the VSS and it does not regulate the spead correctly. I plan on posting my installation with pics and drawings based on my method however, It seems as though I need to buy the signal splitter. I am gong to try a few more adjustments on the swithces before I break down and buy that piece and wire it up.
Either way I will get there. What I really want to know is did anyone try adjustments of the the keys first before they purchased that splitter?
If you did what were those adjustments made, and can you provide some examples of what adjisments you made and most importantly did anyone get the 1223 to work without the splitter?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I do not understand why we have to use the 250-4369 signal spilter. I reviewed serveral posts in this forum and others, I even reviewed posts on other forums with the same type installations on other bikes and all of them are using the same signal splitter. I hooked mine up over the Christmas break without the splitter and all the safety systems are working however, I am not getting a clean signal from the VSS and it does not regulate the spead correctly. I plan on posting my installation with pics and drawings based on my method however, It seems as though I need to buy the signal splitter. I am gong to try a few more adjustments on the swithces before I break down and buy that piece and wire it up.
Either way I will get there. What I really want to know is did anyone try adjustments of the the keys first before they purchased that splitter?
If you did what were those adjustments made, and can you provide some examples of what adjisments you made and most importantly did anyone get the 1223 to work without the splitter?
I dont know if you have a oscilloscope but you can watch the signal on there. the vss on these bikes is finicky at best and at worst its downright trash.
if your getting surging then its because you dont have a splitter. The reason why you have to have the splitter is because the vss creates the signal at 4x what the cruise can interpret. thus the reason for the 4x splitter. if you dont have the splitter then youll get surging and uncontrollable bursts because its using the tach signal as well as the vss to control properly. I did make my own splitter but its my voltage follower circuit built up to keep my vss not causing a FI light.
 

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I am having a hard time getting mine to work. I followed manager's instructions and had no trouble with the connections under the seat. But when I got to the headlight I ran into trouble. To begin with I can't find a pink wire with a green stripe. Secondly, I'm not sure about the wiring for the relay. Has anyone taken the time to draw a wiring diagram? Could you elaborate on exactly which wire you connected to on the coil for the tach?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Sent from my GT-N8010 using Tapatalk
 

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Finally

Well, let me add this followup to this old post. I added a speed sensor to the rear swingarm. Tried the speed sensor on the bike, glitchy. I had the splitter, made an amplifier circuit still acted weird. Maybe it was my tach lead, dunno. But the add on sensor is stone simple (not sexy) but it works. We did 500 miles this weekend and it rocked all the way +/- 1 mph. Very nice to pay attention to the road and not my speed.

Dip switches on mine are all off except #7. Normally open switches is how I made my switch box.

I had to disconnect the tach lead and ground it. Other sites echoed my issue (engage for a few minutes and drop off) and Rostra recommended to disconnect and ground it out. Could be that we are two cylinders and that may make the module a little nuts. Or, we just have some rfi issues and they have a weak filter.

What I did: Added the Rostra speed sensor and bracket with it anchored on the RH swingarm. I added 3 magnets to the rear wheel RH side inside the depression for the disc. JB weld does it again. If there is any brake dust on the magnets it will get cleaned off when I clean the rear wheel (as is the ritual anyway).


Next I will circle back and add a clutch disconnect using the neutral detect on the module. From what I see another relay and maybe a diode ought to get it done simply. Plus now that it works, I will machine out an aluminum sensor cover to hide the ugly.


NOTE: If you add the external sensor from rostra shorten the provided harness to just what you need. Do not bundle it up. There is no shielding and it will act strangely if not at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sorry to hear about your troubles guys, i am currently without a test piece (college tuition suuuuuucks)
I had an 03 vtx r so some connections are going to be different. If you dont have the exact bike. As for going forward with connections in the headlight, sometimes its easier to connect in closer to the computer, make for sure its the outgoing wire for the speedo, not incoming. Also the vtx has a very "dirty" speedo signal, looking on an oscilloscope will show you a pretty ragged signal. Do not add more wire than necessary to allow for flex. It will induce interference. Any other questions email me, im trying to get another bike but it will probly be when im out of college in a year.
 

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Thanks Danater

Thanks for monitoring and continuing to help us along. Long struggle, but worth it. The Rostra works great.
 

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Rostra

Excellent write up. I was checking out the company and it turns out they are about 10 minutes from me. That is nice to know, sure would not be too much trouble to get service!
 

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Cable Mounting

Was wondering if anyone had a picture of how they mounted the cable. I have my servo mounted pretty good, but now I am wondering how to mount the able. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
John
 
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