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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just installed an Energy One clutch that uses 10 frictions and 9 steels. The bike now wants to creep ahead even with the clutch lever pulled back to the grip. I am just wondering if there is adjustments available or will this clear up once the clutch sees some use (not exactly ridin' weather here in NW Ohio). I used bare's site for install info and he didn't mention any needed adjustments when installing his 10 plate mtc clutch.:dontknow:
 

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If I remember right, the Energy 1 is the same as the Kewl Metal pack and that is a common occurance with those. There is no adjustments that can be made, it will be worse when it is cold, once the engine oil is warmer it doesn;t do that as much.
 

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Do a search for "lifter washer mod" by Showtime56. It will increase the throw of your clutch release rod for more disengagement. Some MTC's had a similar problem and this cured it, check it out, good luck.
 

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Just say no! Its the same as the 10 disc kewlmetal... Its great for drag racing ONLY it sux on the street. Creeps in gear, very hard to up shift, near impossible to down shift, impossible to find neutral with the bike running. I bent my shifter rod because it was so hard to shift. The tell you to beat the crap out of it to wear it down :roll: well I did that and it never got better.

I also tried a lifter washer and it didn't help much.

I took it out and sold it and put a MTC in and never looked back. MTC is the way to go!



My write-up here will give you a little more info...



http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144770&highlight=disc
 

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Just say no! Its the same as the 10 disc kewlmetal... Its great for drag racing ONLY it sux on the street. Creeps in gear, very hard to up shift, near impossible to down shift, impossible to find neutral with the bike running. I bent my shifter rod because it was so hard to shift. The tell you to beat the crap out of it to wear it down :roll: well I did that and it never got better.

I also tried a lifter washer and it didn't help much.

I took it out and sold it and put a MTC in and never looked back. MTC is the way to go!



My write-up here will give you a little more info...



http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144770&highlight=disc
You should be a salesman for MTC :popcorn::shock:
 

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Sorry you got **** on, Ryan fish, but I have to ask: Doesn't anyone read the reviews that go with each product in the DLP catalog? You don't need that turd to be "race ready" - the MTC clutch (when installed properly) has more grip than you'll ever need.

I did see where someone recommended you remove some fluid from the reservoir. I don't know how that helps, but that's what I read...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Never heard of a DLP catalog. I just had a slipping factory clutch and decided to upgrade to a performance clutch. Found this unit on ebay where another X'er said he had one in his bike and loved it. Maybe I got taken, but the price was good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
sounds about right. Oh well, I'll wait till spring and see if I can stand it. I still have all the stock plates. Could just re-install them and beef up the springs. Live and learn, I guess.:oops::-x
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry you got **** on, Ryan fish, but I have to ask: Doesn't anyone read the reviews that go with each product in the DLP catalog? You don't need that turd to be "race ready" - the MTC clutch (when installed properly) has more grip than you'll ever need.

I did see where someone recommended you remove some fluid from the reservoir. I don't know how that helps, but that's what I read...


I case you didn't notice on my original post, I bought an Energy One clutch. DLP does NOT sell Energy One. At least not under that name. So reading reviews of their products would not have helped. Apparent from this discussion is that KM re-markets Energy One material with a mark-up for their name on the sticker.
 

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sounds about right. Oh well, I'll wait till spring and see if I can stand it. I still have all the stock plates. Could just re-install them and beef up the springs. Live and learn, I guess.:oops::-x
I would try the lifter washer mod, it may help just enough so it's livable, all clutch pack thickness' are not exactly the same, yours may be alright with just a little more disengagement, depends on how bad it is. Good Luck
 
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I did see where someone recommended you remove some fluid from the reservoir. I don't know how that helps, but that's what I read...
If the reservoir is 'full' before the clutch job, and you install a clutch with a taller stack height, the slave cylinder will try to push (more) fluid back into an already fuil reservoir,,,

Well, it can't because it's already full, so therefore, there is still pressure in the line, having the same effect as partially pulling on the clutch lever.

Remove some fluid, and then the 'extra' fluid from the slave created by the addition of a clutch with a taller stack height has some place to go, therefore allowing the slave to fully 'pull back', and the clutch to fully engage.

(stack height = thickness of all plates, steel and fiber, put together)

UPDATE: 1/7

Seems like the VTX clutch works exactly in the opposite, where a taller stack would actually require more fluid, not less,,,

This makes absolutely no sense regarding the issue of fluid removal to eliminate slipping,,,, but,,,, the clutch pushrod interacts with the clutch from the 'inside',,, and a taller stack would actually remove fluid from the reservoir, not add to it.
 

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I would try the lifter washer mod, it may help just enough so it's livable, all clutch pack thickness' are not exactly the same, yours may be alright with just a little more disengagement, depends on how bad it is. Good Luck
He could try it, but having been down that road myself I doubt it will help much.

The whole problem with the kit is clutch disengagement by installing a 10 disc clutch you just lost 20% of you effective clutch disengagement. Only way to really resolve it is get a master cylinder with a larger bore.

Read my link I posted. I think it tells the story pretty well.
 

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He could try it, but having been down that road myself I doubt it will help much.

The whole problem with the kit is clutch disengagement by installing a 10 disc clutch you just lost 20% of you effective clutch disengagement. Only way to really resolve it is get a master cylinder with a larger bore.

Read my link I posted. I think it tells the story pretty well.
............................Agree 100 percent with XN. He and I went down this road already trying to figure out the 10 packs quirks. The lifter washer mod wont help with this clutch assembly. Bottom line is there is just not enough plate seperation, and outside of the mentioned bigger bore master, your SOL.

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Has anyone tried putting the bike on a lift and running the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in and let it slip till it wears the plates a few thousands? Would be worth a shot.
 

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Makes it sound like not such a good deal anymore to me, that's what it sounds like.
 

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Has anyone tried putting the bike on a lift and running the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in and let it slip till it wears the plates a few thousands? Would be worth a shot.
Not a good idea, too much heat build up going that route could warp the plates, at the very least glaze the plates over.
 
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