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Discussion Starter #1
So I took my VTX 1300 out today and as I was going along the engine just cut out and came to a stop.

I put the bike back in neutral and with the stand up I turned it back on with no problems at all.

When I went into gear it just kept cutting out.

My dad came with his van and we put it in the back and got it home.

We assumed it was the side stand switch so we cut it off and bridged the wires together before the switch and that seemed to solve the problem.

I went back out for a test run and all was going well until all of a sudden it stopped running again.

Once again I look to see whether the wires are still bridged together and they are so wiggle it around and try it again.

It starts up and goes into gear so I get the bike home.

Came back to it 15 minutes later and the exact same thing again, it cuts out when going into first.

Can anybody help me here as it seems to me that it is completely intermittent. Sometimes it goes into gear fine and sometimes it just turns off even though we have bridged the wires together.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

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The Green/White stripe wire from the KS switch also goes to the ICM.
The ICM has to see a Ground to allow ignition spark.
Verify +12v to the ICM module. This is one of the two wires most likely to break.
Verify +12v to Black/White wire to IGN coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The Green/White stripe wire from the KS switch also goes to the ICM.
The ICM has to see a Ground to allow ignition spark.
Verify +12v to the ICM module. This is one of the two wires most likely to break.
Verify +12v to Black/White wire to IGN coils.
Thanks for your quick reply.
do you mean 12v through the green/white wire to the ICM?
 

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NO, I said Ground. From the Kickstand Green Ground+ KS UP, but you wired it together
to G/W wire, so Ground to ICM. That Starter Relay diagram has info on it.

There could be some voltage if there is a pullup resistor in the ICM
but that GROUND is needed IF you want some spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
NO, I said Ground. From the Kickstand Green Ground+ KS UP, but you wired it together
to G/W wire, so Ground to ICM. That Starter Relay diagram has info on it.

There could be some voltage if there is a pullup resistor in the ICM
but that GROUND is needed IF you want some spark.
Unfortunately I just don't understand the electric stuff so my electronics guy is going to come Tuesday and have a look.

I took it out today for 20-25 minutes and the more I rode it the better it started to ride. Obviously I was having the popping and spluttering problem as you know but this problem started to ease and although not 100% perfect it did get a lot better.

The bad news is after 25 minutes the bike cut out again at about 60mph. I pulled over and once again it starts in neutral but cuts when it goes into gear. This problem only seems to be when it is hot so I'm just completely stuck.

Any thoughts?
 

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Years ago, i had an issue where my bike would get hot and die. But it was also blowing a fuse....any way it ended up being the diode in the fuse box was bad. Fuse box is unde the seat in the exhaust side of the bike. Diode is under the cab for the fuses and towards the hinges in the box. If i get home to day ill get a picture for you
 

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Years ago, i had an issue where my bike would get hot and die. But it was also blowing a fuse....any way it ended up being the diode in the fuse box was bad. Fuse box is unde the seat in the exhaust side of the bike. Diode is under the cab for the fuses and towards the hinges in the box. If i get home to day ill get a picture for you
Rather strange. Diodes to prevent backfeed from KS up/start in gear from illuminating
the Neutral switch. It is on the Ground side of the Starter Relay.
There is no direct connection to +12v to blow a fuse unless the Starter Relay coil shorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Years ago, i had an issue where my bike would get hot and die. But it was also blowing a fuse....any way it ended up being the diode in the fuse box was bad. Fuse box is unde the seat in the exhaust side of the bike. Diode is under the cab for the fuses and towards the hinges in the box. If i get home to day ill get a picture for you
If you could send me a picture that would be awesome.
I will check this out!
 

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Diode module is the Black object at top left.
Have you replaced the "IGN, Start" fuse?? Once in awhile a fuse may have a fracture which can
open the circuit.
 

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Diode module is the Black object at top left.
Have you replaced the "IGN, Start" fuse?? Once in awhile a fuse may have a fracture which can
open the circuit.
On this subject, I recommend replacing ALL fuses with the EZ-ID kind, that light up when they pop. Saves time and narrows down troubleshooting. Esp. if most like me, aren't as knowledgable as Hans. He's one of the best here!
 

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It was a weird deal. This was probably 8 years ago Bike would run 15 or 20 mins perfect then once it got hot it would blow the ignition fuse and id have to wait 20 or 30 mins so i could swap fuse and make it home. Changed the diode and problem fixed
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay so my electronic guy has been today and he is just completely puzzled and just doesn’t know why it’s doing what it’s doing. All safety switches are performing as they should, all wires are as they should be he just does not know why it is cutting out when hot. He says it must be electrical if there is no mechanical strain but can’t fault any of the electrics. I’m not sure what else I can do. The Diode fuse we took out and all turned on normally. Who knows?
 

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Some fuses failed from stress fracture. Replace fuse.
Get a few leds and connect them to critical locations:
Ign coil Positive wire (Black/White wire.
ICM positive wire (Black)

Remove the 30 amp fuse in the Starter relay. Some terminals have failed.
Inspect.
All power lost or just Ignition??
 

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It sounds more like the neutral switch that isn't working right. It may work fine when its cold but with jiggling around shuts it down. If it is a broken wire after time of arcing it will not start at all. If the wire is broken when cold it goes together until it gets hot and pulls apart, continued process makes it arc and shorten the wire for no more connection. Older coils/condensers used to do this. Not sure if these bikes have a fusible link in them, but they will do this as well.
 

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It sounds more like the neutral switch that isn't working right. It may work fine when its cold but with jiggling around shuts it down. If it is a broken wire after time of arcing it will not start at all. If the wire is broken when cold it goes together until it gets hot and pulls apart, continued process makes it arc and shorten the wire for no more connection. Older coils/condensers used to do this. Not sure if these bikes have a fusible link in them, but they will do this as well.
The ICM has two status leads. Each one wants to see a Ground to allow Ignition to take place.
In Neutral, Neutral light ON, engine cranks and runs, user puts UP Kickstand, now a Ground from the KS switch
makes the ICM happy. Ignition continues even when shifted into gear. This is the way it works.

Now the issue seems to be dying when hot.
 
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