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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
10 mile ride to warm her up, level ground, on the side stand, drained front and rear and changed oil filter. I added 128 oz precisely (4 qts), closed her up and idled for 5 minutes without blipping the throttle. Good oil pressure. Shut her down and let sit for 3 minutes.

Oil level on stock dipstick (without screwing it in) indicates an oil level reading about 2 inches up the dipstick! Measured the amount of oil drained out - just shy of 4 qts.

4 qts came out and 4 qts went back in...So why the erroneous reading?:dontknow:
 

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Because the dipstick is unreliable. There are many threads on this but here's what I write in each;

DOn;t use the sticks as marked, that will solve it.

Next oil change, drain out all the oil from both drain plugs.
Fill with 1 gallon of fresh oil and new filter.
Start bike and let run for a minute on the sidestand.

Now, WITH THE BIKE ON ITS SIDESTAND, remove the dipstick, clean it and insert it back into the engine. Remove it and with a Sharpie Marker, mark the oil line on the stick.
With a Dremmel tool, scribe that line into your stick. This is your new "FULL" mark.

No more trying to balance and get false readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Excellent!! I'll do it tonight. Thanks for the great info!!:p
 

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I use your same method R2R, except go for a ride after refill and after shutting down for a few minutes check oil while sitting on bike upright and the stick is right on. I believe the oil doesn't get completely distributed to every area it's supposed to when idling vs. normal driving, probably in the gearbox section, works for me, and many others.
 

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The oil pump, pumps oil everywhere, engine, trans, all over where it should go. No need to ride it, the oil dipstick is NOTORIOUS for giving bad readings if you do not have the bike in the exact position. You can get different readings by just moving the bike 5 feet between checks. It's the stick, not the oil
 

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Sounds like you are checking it on the sidestand. It needs to be checked off the stand - upright and level. Also, a slight variation of level -- I mean 5 or 10 degress will result in a very inaccurate reading of the oil level.
 

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The oil pump, pumps oil everywhere, engine, trans, all over where it should go. No need to ride it, the oil dipstick is NOTORIOUS for giving bad readings if you do not have the bike in the exact position. You can get different readings by just moving the bike 5 feet between checks. It's the stick, not the oil
When changing oil, I've found driving after refill puts the level right on the factory full mark after being way over when checking after just idling everytime. Grind your dipstick if you like, mine works fine as designed with this method. I don't want to argue, just sharing what works for me and many others. Happy New Year!
 

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Sure, and I'm saying this after changing hundreds of VTX's oil over the last 5 years or so. I've done it every way, and rechecked after several days of riding too and you do not get the same reading twice by having to balance the bike and lean over to get the stick. My way of leaving the bike on the sidestand and then checking, leaves the whole lean over balancing act out of it. The oil still gets pumped everywhere, riding it will not make it level or not. The oil filter is behind the trans, so it has to pump oil through the trans to get to the filter.
 

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Sounds like you are checking it on the sidestand. It needs to be checked off the stand - upright and level. Also, a slight variation of level -- I mean 5 or 10 degress will result in a very inaccurate reading of the oil level.
:agree:

However, Spikes advice on the stick is a great way to solve the issue of holding the scoot straight up to check oil. You can do it with ease if you mark your stick.........................

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The oil level going from way over, to right on, after driving, consistantly, is all the proof I need of incomplete circulation from idling alone, after changing. If you can't hold an X steady enough in the upright position for a few seconds to accurately check your oil, maybe it's too big for you. To each his own.
Rayno, I think you missing the point here. Yes we can hold and balance the scooter to check the oil, and, we can change the oil, go ride, lean the bike over, remark the stick for future reference and never ever ever have to worry about the balancing act again.....................this mark becomes the NEW oil level with the stick screwed all the way in, and the scooter leaning on the stand. No guessing and easy.

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I get the point Show, I'd just rather use the stick as designed and not be concerned about the surface my kickstand is on putting the bike in the exact same position as when the stick was remarked, I feel more confident of an accurate reading holding the bike upright. Personal preference. Have a good one!
 

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I get the point Show, I'd just rather use the stick as designed and not be concerned about the surface my kickstand is on putting the bike in the exact same position as when the stick was remarked, I feel more confident of an accurate reading holding the bike upright. Personal preference. Have a good one!
U2!

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+1 Spike! Yall need to listen to this guy... he knows his *****.:bowdown:



I did what Spike is talking about at my 600 mile "service" oil change, only instead of grinding the stick, I took a pair of side cutters (dikes) and made a mark on my stick. Just don't try to cut too deep, just enough to leave a visible mark on the stick. :thumbup:
 

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Sure, and I'm saying this after changing hundreds of VTX's oil over the last 5 years or so. I've done it every way, and rechecked after several days of riding too and you do not get the same reading twice by having to balance the bike and lean over to get the stick. My way of leaving the bike on the sidestand and then checking, leaves the whole lean over balancing act out of it. The oil still gets pumped everywhere, riding it will not make it level or not. The oil filter is behind the trans, so it has to pump oil through the trans to get to the filter.
The oil level going from way overfull after just idling, to right on after driving, consistantly, is all the proof I need of incomplete circulation from idling alone, after changing, and R2R's reading of 2" high on the dipstick confirms this, it was certainly not that high from being a few degrees off from upright. Also, your bike is not going to be at the exact same lean angle as when you recalibrated your dipstick, everywhere you put your kickstand down. I have no problem getting consistant and accurate readings sitting on bike upright, wherever I happen to be. As long as you're flat footed when sitting, the bike is steady. To each his own.
 

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as long as you drain a gallon and add a gallon then the
only thing the dipstick is good for is throwing in the garbage!

unless your bike leaks huge puddles of oil or leaves huge clouds
of blue smoke behind the oil is NOT going anywhere!

and if its doing that you have bigger worries than the
accuracy of the dipstick! :thumbup:
 

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Sounds like you work at Jiffy Lube, they don't use dipsticks either, 5 qts. for all, and down the road you go.
 

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Not only that but the bike seems to have an incredible ability to hold oil that it logically shouldn't be able to hold... or perhaps drain more than the 3.9 that's supposed to come out... it's one goofy ass engine, IMO.
 

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The oil level going from way overfull after just idling, to right on after driving, consistantly, is all the proof I need of incomplete circulation from idling alone, after changing, and R2R's reading of 2" high on the dipstick confirms this, it was certainly not that high from being a few degrees off from upright. Also, your bike is not going to be at the exact same lean angle as when you recalibrated your dipstick, everywhere you put your kickstand down. I have no problem getting consistant and accurate readings sitting on bike upright, wherever I happen to be. As long as you're flat footed when sitting, the bike is steady. To each his own.
a). I never just let a bike idle after I change it's oil. I will give it some throttle to 3000 rpms or so for a few seconds then crawl under it to be sure nothings leaking. Then I shut it off, clean up and check the levels
b). I have not just seen bikes read too high on the stick after an oil change, I also see many that read too low after an oil change. So, there's your theory of no oil circulation out the window.

It's the sticks, no, not every stick is out of whack, it is more likely the way people try the balancing act to get at their stick. I have watched people from behind as they checked their oil for me. I found most lean their bikes way over to the right to compensate for them leaning over the left side of the tank. They don't even know they are doing it. This is why I came up with leaving the bike on it's stand and marking a new FULL mark.
 

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Sounds like you work at Jiffy Lube, they don't use dipsticks either, 5 qts. for all, and down the road you go.
Engine requires 3.9 quarts for an oil and filter change. Do NOT go by what this stick says. Add 4 qts and be done. I have changed a few VTX's oil that had 5 qts of oil in the engine, and 1 even had nearly 6qts. Why? I'm guessing that when the dealer prepped these bikes, they took the sticks out when the bike was on their lift table, saw the stick read low and added more oil. Was that wrong? No, the tech was only topping off the fluids like he/she should. But it ain't right either.
 

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Not to be a "Dipstick" about this issue but both sides have their own merit... I replaced my dipstick with the Tel-Tru Temp. guage and I use the "on the side stand" method... When I change it, I don't check for level because I know how much oil I just poured into the tank and how much I drained out. Unless there are oil gremlins sucking it up as I pour it in... what is the use in checking for an exact reading. I try to find a level area to check it in between changes... Park it on the side stand and check for oil in the safe zone on the stick... it hasn't surprised me yet. Happy New Year to All,8)
 
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