I finished the PAIR mod and EVAP removal on my CA 1300 today (I also added Glen's A/F permanent adjustment screw). I took it out for a ride, and it seems to be working perfectly.
Info on EVAP removal for the 1300s is hard to find, but I figured it out. After I carefully studied the service manual, and from all the info I could glean from miscellaneous posts, the manual, and sheer intuition, here's my step-by-step procedure - after seat/tank/cover removal and PAIR mod (if you don't know how to do these things, please do not proceed, cuz it only gets harder):
(Before you begin, identify everything associated with the EVAP system - the service manual is indispensable. If you did the PAIR mod, you're ahead.)
I started with un-bolting the EVAP canister under the bike. I disconnected the skinny hose (that goes to the gas tank) from the canister, but left the other two on. However, in order to separate the EVAP canister from the bike, you need to disconnect that fat (#4) line that connects it to the CAV valve (at the neck of the bike). If you did the PAIR mod, you ought to know what I mean.
After that, I removed both the EVAP CAV and Purge control valves at the neck, leaving the vac lines in place (while I was figuring out what to do next). When all was said and done, I only had left a few vac lines connected to the carb and intake manifold. These were the tricky ones to figure out since the info on the forums is mostly for 1800s, and the service manual took some deciphering.
I made this diagram for myself using the image from the manual, which can also be found on the rear fender under the seat (I was inspired by this old post by BSAMAN, as evidenced in the text in the image):
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From BSAMAN, I learned not to disconnect and cap the #6 line (right next to the fuel line into the carb). I don't know why it couldn't just be left open with no hose attached, but as is, it works fine.
![]()
On the side of carb towards the front of the bike is a #10 line. Pull this and cap it with a 1/8" vacuum cap (these are hard to find in SF, but I begged a good friend in the service dept. at a local bike shop for them). It wouldn't hurt to have a few on hand (5 or more):
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Here's what it looks like capped:
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After that, I pulled all of the rest of the #10 lines at the top. I tried to pull the line going into the intake manifold, but it was on there good, and I was also short a vac cap, so I just plugged it with a screw I had on had from another project (TIP: never get rid of anything, cuz you never know when you'll need it! that said, when I get some more vac cap, I will remedy this blight).
![]()
The last step was to remove the line going into the backside (and bottom) of the carb. It was hard to get to - and if you have large hands, you'll need to get some better tools), but it was easier than I expected. You have to pull this line, then cap with a 1/8" vac cap. (or, if you're lazy and you have the right size screw, just plug it and zip-tie it off. but I don't recommend that).
![]()
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Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, I'm just not stupid. Don't take this as professional advice because I may have it wrong. But from real world experience, the bike runs better than it did before I made these mods, as I had hoped based on what others have reported. Who know what issues I may encounter down the road, but all seems good so far from my test rides. The exhaust sounds better, the bike looks cleaner, and I feel great from solving this problem with the help from the great community plus good old fashioned ingenuity.
If you have any questions, let me know. Here's a link to higher rez images:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157622555738115/
-eviljake
Info on EVAP removal for the 1300s is hard to find, but I figured it out. After I carefully studied the service manual, and from all the info I could glean from miscellaneous posts, the manual, and sheer intuition, here's my step-by-step procedure - after seat/tank/cover removal and PAIR mod (if you don't know how to do these things, please do not proceed, cuz it only gets harder):
(Before you begin, identify everything associated with the EVAP system - the service manual is indispensable. If you did the PAIR mod, you're ahead.)
I started with un-bolting the EVAP canister under the bike. I disconnected the skinny hose (that goes to the gas tank) from the canister, but left the other two on. However, in order to separate the EVAP canister from the bike, you need to disconnect that fat (#4) line that connects it to the CAV valve (at the neck of the bike). If you did the PAIR mod, you ought to know what I mean.
After that, I removed both the EVAP CAV and Purge control valves at the neck, leaving the vac lines in place (while I was figuring out what to do next). When all was said and done, I only had left a few vac lines connected to the carb and intake manifold. These were the tricky ones to figure out since the info on the forums is mostly for 1800s, and the service manual took some deciphering.
I made this diagram for myself using the image from the manual, which can also be found on the rear fender under the seat (I was inspired by this old post by BSAMAN, as evidenced in the text in the image):
From BSAMAN, I learned not to disconnect and cap the #6 line (right next to the fuel line into the carb). I don't know why it couldn't just be left open with no hose attached, but as is, it works fine.
On the side of carb towards the front of the bike is a #10 line. Pull this and cap it with a 1/8" vacuum cap (these are hard to find in SF, but I begged a good friend in the service dept. at a local bike shop for them). It wouldn't hurt to have a few on hand (5 or more):
Here's what it looks like capped:
After that, I pulled all of the rest of the #10 lines at the top. I tried to pull the line going into the intake manifold, but it was on there good, and I was also short a vac cap, so I just plugged it with a screw I had on had from another project (TIP: never get rid of anything, cuz you never know when you'll need it! that said, when I get some more vac cap, I will remedy this blight).
The last step was to remove the line going into the backside (and bottom) of the carb. It was hard to get to - and if you have large hands, you'll need to get some better tools), but it was easier than I expected. You have to pull this line, then cap with a 1/8" vac cap. (or, if you're lazy and you have the right size screw, just plug it and zip-tie it off. but I don't recommend that).
----------
Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, I'm just not stupid. Don't take this as professional advice because I may have it wrong. But from real world experience, the bike runs better than it did before I made these mods, as I had hoped based on what others have reported. Who know what issues I may encounter down the road, but all seems good so far from my test rides. The exhaust sounds better, the bike looks cleaner, and I feel great from solving this problem with the help from the great community plus good old fashioned ingenuity.
If you have any questions, let me know. Here's a link to higher rez images:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157622555738115/
-eviljake
