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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finished the PAIR mod and EVAP removal on my CA 1300 today (I also added Glen's A/F permanent adjustment screw). I took it out for a ride, and it seems to be working perfectly.

Info on EVAP removal for the 1300s is hard to find, but I figured it out. After I carefully studied the service manual, and from all the info I could glean from miscellaneous posts, the manual, and sheer intuition, here's my step-by-step procedure - after seat/tank/cover removal and PAIR mod (if you don't know how to do these things, please do not proceed, cuz it only gets harder):

(Before you begin, identify everything associated with the EVAP system - the service manual is indispensable. If you did the PAIR mod, you're ahead.)

I started with un-bolting the EVAP canister under the bike. I disconnected the skinny hose (that goes to the gas tank) from the canister, but left the other two on. However, in order to separate the EVAP canister from the bike, you need to disconnect that fat (#4) line that connects it to the CAV valve (at the neck of the bike). If you did the PAIR mod, you ought to know what I mean.

After that, I removed both the EVAP CAV and Purge control valves at the neck, leaving the vac lines in place (while I was figuring out what to do next). When all was said and done, I only had left a few vac lines connected to the carb and intake manifold. These were the tricky ones to figure out since the info on the forums is mostly for 1800s, and the service manual took some deciphering.

I made this diagram for myself using the image from the manual, which can also be found on the rear fender under the seat (I was inspired by this old post by BSAMAN, as evidenced in the text in the image):



From BSAMAN, I learned not to disconnect and cap the #6 line (right next to the fuel line into the carb). I don't know why it couldn't just be left open with no hose attached, but as is, it works fine.



On the side of carb towards the front of the bike is a #10 line. Pull this and cap it with a 1/8" vacuum cap (these are hard to find in SF, but I begged a good friend in the service dept. at a local bike shop for them). It wouldn't hurt to have a few on hand (5 or more):



Here's what it looks like capped:



After that, I pulled all of the rest of the #10 lines at the top. I tried to pull the line going into the intake manifold, but it was on there good, and I was also short a vac cap, so I just plugged it with a screw I had on had from another project (TIP: never get rid of anything, cuz you never know when you'll need it! that said, when I get some more vac cap, I will remedy this blight).



The last step was to remove the line going into the backside (and bottom) of the carb. It was hard to get to - and if you have large hands, you'll need to get some better tools), but it was easier than I expected. You have to pull this line, then cap with a 1/8" vac cap. (or, if you're lazy and you have the right size screw, just plug it and zip-tie it off. but I don't recommend that).



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Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, I'm just not stupid. Don't take this as professional advice because I may have it wrong. But from real world experience, the bike runs better than it did before I made these mods, as I had hoped based on what others have reported. Who know what issues I may encounter down the road, but all seems good so far from my test rides. The exhaust sounds better, the bike looks cleaner, and I feel great from solving this problem with the help from the great community plus good old fashioned ingenuity.

If you have any questions, let me know. Here's a link to higher rez images:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157622555738115/

-eviljake
 

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EVAP Removal on a CA 1300

I was looking to get a hold of Jake since he did the write up on the EVAP removal, but looks like he hasn't been on line in a few weeks. Maybe he's travelling for the holidays. Anyway...I'm in the middle of removing the EVAP canister from my CA 1300. I did the PAIR valve a while back, so that part of it is out of the way. I went through the instructions, but hit a couple of snags and was hoping I could get some help. I did my best at describing my situation.

Here is what I've done so far:

Removed the EVAP canister
Removed the EVAP purge valve
Removed the EVAP CAV control valve
Re-routed the #6 line under the seat
On the side of the carb towards the front of the bike, pulled off the #10 hose and replaced with a 1/8" cap
Removed the hose connected to the intake manifold and replaced with a 1/8" cap
Pulled off all the lose hoses from the top

Here is what I have left to do:

1. Remove the hose off the back of the carb and cap that with a 1/8" cap (this is the one that's hard to get to). The other end of this hose isn't connected to anything any longer.
2. Remove the bigger hose from the top of the carb and cap that with something much larger than 1/8"


Here is where I am stuck:

1. The step by step instructions don't say what to cap this with (1/8 is way too small). I'm assuming (but want to be sure) that it must be capped since in the diagram, there are three blue/purple dots and I've only accounted for two. This is the "middle" blue/purple dot slightly closer to the front of the bike from the hose that was left on the Carb but re-routed under the seat (#6).
2. It says in the text in the diagram that "Line #10 was capped at the 'T'". I don't know what this means because there are no "T"s left on the bike.

-and the big one-

3. Since the hoses are all gone, do I need to put a cap on the left side of the fuel valve?:dontknow:

Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer.
 

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hopefully someone had beter luck with that procedure on their Ca model 1300 than I did.

I consider myself pretty qualified around mechanical items and had issues with that system so bad for so long, I just re-installed it and rode off.
 

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hopefully someone had beter luck with that procedure on their Ca model 1300 than I did.

I consider myself pretty qualified around mechanical items and had issues with that system so bad for so long, I just re-installed it and rode off.
Yikes, I hope I don't end up having to do that. Putting all those hoses back would be a real PITA at this point.
 

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I was looking to get a hold of Jake since he did the write up on the EVAP removal, but looks like he hasn't been on line in a few weeks. Maybe he's travelling for the holidays. Anyway...I'm in the middle of removing the EVAP canister from my CA 1300. I did the PAIR valve a while back, so that part of it is out of the way. I went through the instructions, but hit a couple of snags and was hoping I could get some help. I did my best at describing my situation.

Here is what I've done so far:

Removed the EVAP canister
Removed the EVAP purge valve
Removed the EVAP CAV control valve
Re-routed the #6 line under the seat
On the side of the carb towards the front of the bike, pulled off the #10 hose and replaced with a 1/8" cap
Removed the hose connected to the intake manifold and replaced with a 1/8" cap
Pulled off all the lose hoses from the top

Here is what I have left to do:

1. Remove the hose off the back of the carb and cap that with a 1/8" cap (this is the one that's hard to get to). The other end of this hose isn't connected to anything any longer.
2. Remove the bigger hose from the top of the carb and cap that with something much larger than 1/8"


Here is where I am stuck:

1. The step by step instructions don't say what to cap this with (1/8 is way too small). I'm assuming (but want to be sure) that it must be capped since in the diagram, there are three blue/purple dots and I've only accounted for two. This is the "middle" blue/purple dot slightly closer to the front of the bike from the hose that was left on the Carb but re-routed under the seat (#6).
2. It says in the text in the diagram that "Line #10 was capped at the 'T'". I don't know what this means because there are no "T"s left on the bike.

-and the big one-

3. Since the hoses are all gone, do I need to put a cap on the left side of the fuel valve?:dontknow:

Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer.
3. Since the hoses are all gone, do I need to put a cap on the left side of the fuel valve?

You'll still need vacumn at that location for fuel to flow. It will start and run for a few seconds with the gas that's in the carb bowl.
You took off to much . I'm looking at Jakes diagram now to help you.
Looks like one of the tees in Jakes diagram is not crossed off, probably the one that runs a line to the fuel shut off valve.
 

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3. Since the hoses are all gone, do I need to put a cap on the left side of the fuel valve?

You'll still need vacumn at that location for fuel to flow. It will start and run for a few seconds with the gas that's in the carb bowl.
You took off to much . I'm looking at Jakes diagram now to help you.
Looks like one of the tees in Jakes diagram is not crossed off, probably the one that runs a line to the fuel shut off valve.
Thanks Rob!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think you're right, Rob. It appears too much was taken off. The diagram is not a perfect thing, but it was all I had to work with. I will take another look at my bike tonight and try to get a visual of the problem, but some photos would definitely help.
 

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I think you're right, Rob. It appears too much was taken off. The diagram is not a perfect thing, but it was all I had to work with. I will take another look at my bike tonight and try to get a visual of the problem, but some photos would definitely help.
Thanks guys. Here is a video and some stills of my bike. I edited the photo of the hoses with some numbers so it would be easy for you to refer to them. Some of the pics aren't so good, but I decided to leave them anyway in case you wanted me to take another you could use them to reference the area.
 

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Thanks guys. Here is a video and some stills of my bike. I edited the photo of the hoses with some numbers so it would be easy for you to refer to them. Some of the pics aren't so good, but I decided to leave them anyway in case you wanted me to take another you could use them to reference the area.
It seems I need 5 posts before I can provide links
 

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I Just thought I'd give an update on my EVAP removal project. With Jake's help, we determined why I was having trouble with his work instructions. Model year. Things are different. On a 2007 (Actually, 2005-2007 I suspect) there is a vacuum hose on the fuel valve (petcock) and that didn't exist before. Since, as Rob pointed out, vacuum is required in order to flow fuel from the tank into the fuel line I had to put some of the hoses I had pulled off back on.

I put the hose that connects the front of the carb (on the right of the bike) to the fuel valve back on. That hose has a "T" connector in it and the hose on that "T" goes to the intake manifold. There is a second "T" connector in that hose that used to route to the CAV valve that I capped with a 1/8" cap also.

That leaves me the following changes on the bike:

*A cap (1/8") to replace the loose hose on the very bottom of the carb facing straight down.
*A cap (3/16") to replace the loose hose on the very top of the carb facing straight up.
*A cap (1/8") on the "T" connector to replace the hose that use to go to the CAV vavle.
*The hose between the fuel line and the cap we just replaced (on the top of the carb) is re-rerouted under the seat and left open.
*The hose on the right side of the tank (near the seat) stays connected, but doesn't connect to anything down by where the EVAP canister used to be.

I Put it back together and it runs, but not well. Played a bit with the AF to try and improve things but I suspect I'm too rich right now since I could feel it bog a little on the freeway. I'll lean it out a bit in the morning and try again. If that doesn't work, I'm going to try either plugging the intake manifold and the hose that connects to it or the hose on the front of the carb and the hose that connects to it so that there is only one source of vacuum to the fuel valve. I guess if none of that works, I'll be in the same camp as Wizza and have to put it all back together but I really want to solve this mystery and for all so that I can give Jake my work instructions so we can update everyone and ensure nobody else has to go through this.

Let me know if you have any other things I should try that I haven't listed here.
 

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you guys might want to put the vaccuum line back ont the acv valve on the side of the carb. this line operates the air cut off valve it reduces air flow into the carb when you let off the throttle. this richens the fuel mixture when the engine is used to decelerate the bike. the richer fuel mixture helps prevent decel popping. if you remove the vaccuum line from the acv the fuel mixture will change at certain rpm and engine conditions

this is the one

 

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you guys might want to put the vaccuum line back ont the acv valve on the side of the carb. this line operates the air cut off valve it reduces air flow into the carb when you let off the throttle. this richens the fuel mixture when the engine is used to decelerate the bike. the richer fuel mixture helps prevent decel popping. if you remove the vaccuum line from the acv the fuel mixture will change at certain rpm and engine conditions

this is the one

Thanks Greg. I just read another post and you are correct. I'll be making some changes as soon as I can get my hands on some new hosing (so I can keep the stock stuff intact) making my changes and then I'll post my results. :agree:
 

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Thanks Greg. I just read another post and you are correct. I'll be making some changes as soon as I can get my hands on some new hosing (so I can keep the stock stuff intact) making my changes and then I'll post my results. :agree:
here is a post i made today on how to make the vac line from the pair valve work
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255467

you dont have to cut those
 

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I just wanted to close off this post for others who may find it in searches. Like Wizza, I never got things running properly and ended up having to put the EVAP canister, the valves at the neck, and the hoses back on. Tried a few different setups with no luck. I'm not sure what works, at least on a 2005-2007 model.:dontknow:

If someone figures this out some day, I might try again.
 

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I will be looking into it here very soon. Once I get the block off plates ordered for the PAIR valves I will remove both systems and do a full write up for it with everything. I hope that I have better luck than anyone else.... *crosses fingers*
 

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I will be looking into it here very soon. Once I get the block off plates ordered for the PAIR valves I will remove both systems and do a full write up for it with everything. I hope that I have better luck than anyone else.... *crosses fingers*
Hi 5 elements. Just curious, were you ever able to successfully remove the EVAP canister? I'd like to tackle this project again on my bike.
 

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I am working on it today... So far... its... interesting. Everything I know about carbs and vacuum lines and everything is coming into play today. I will let you know tomorrow if it works at all...
 

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So I got it working.

On the carb, cap the ports for lines #11 and #5. Do NOT cap #10 (vacume) nor #6 (vent line). The #11 line (at the back and pointing up) is where evap gasses enter the carb. #5 is somewhat like a vacume line. It tells the evap system when to vent. By capping both of them, you are essentially turning your carb into a 49 state carb. They don't have those two ports. Now to make sure it works on the road. I let it warm up slightly and blipped the throttle to see if it was working. Things look great so far. I just have to finish up with the other things I am doing before a full test: Progressive fork springs and fork oil change and all-balls steering stem bearing. I can't be out in the garage for more than like 10-15 min at a time due to the heat here in Texas. Its getting well over a hundred in the garage with the door closed and with it open it doesnt get ANY air movement. I will give an update once I have it all back together and tested tonight or tomorrow morning. After that it's on to the decapitated airbox and tuning... then I will get my pipes this week... WOOT!
 

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Dumb question

This may sound like a dumb question, but what's the big payoff for this mod
If it's done right, pulling the smog crap off a motorcycle will typically make it run much better, but you just need to be ready to put it back to stock if you get 'busted' for it.
 
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