So there is two parts to this: PAIR and Evap system. The PAIR setup is for all bikes and it reduces the backfiring and popping on decel when you have aftermarket pipes. The california emissions stuff can be removed (in my opinion) to reduce the complexity of the bike. It adds three more components that can go bad and tons of places to develop vacuum leaks and other issues. Both of these also clean up the top of the engine making it much easier to work on and do things like valve adjustments.This may sound like a dumb question, but what's the big payoff for this mod??? :dontknow:
I pulled the smog crap off my other bike (VStar 1100) and it improved/reduced the backfiring and allowed it to run a bit richer, same deal here??
I have an issue with my elbow right now otherwise I would give it a full on ride test rather than a rev test... I will let you know once I have tested it fullyPlease keep us updated. Every time I read about CA. emissions removal the story ends with "well I put everything back on today". I wish the best as I had come to the conclusion I would have to get a 49 state carb and go that route.
That would be helpful. I do have a few questions on this. If you cap off 11 and 5 on the carb, the open hoses that remain all come off along with the associated plumbing (canister and those 2 valves at the neck). 10 and 6 just remain as vent hoses still attached to the carb, but lead nowhere.So, as far as I can tell, the bike is working just as well as it was performance wise. I took it out today for a short ride (about 20 miles) and was cruising easily at an indicated 90 (81 actual) mph with no problem. I might steal some of the pics from this thread and do a full writeup for anyone who would like to do it.
So, the only vent hoses are #6 and #1 (gas tank vent). Number 10 leads to two other things: the intake manifold (located between the cylinders opposite the carb, provides the vacuum) and the petcock (allows fuel to flow via a vacuum actuated valve that is the backup to the carb float valve). The number 10 line needs to hook up to both of those with a T fitting.That would be helpful. I do have a few questions on this. If you cap off 11 and 5 on the carb, the open hoses that remain all come off along with the associated plumbing (canister and those 2 valves at the neck). 10 and 6 just remain as vent hoses still attached to the carb, but lead nowhere.
Did I get that right?
BTW, once you have the air box off the bike, look at the top behind the vacuum cap (cover for the slider in the carb) and the other is behind the bowl on the bottom. Those are the ones to plug (the are the only things that make the CA carb different from the 49 state). You just plug those, route the vent lines, make sure the vacuum line is good and you can pull it all off pretty much. I think that most people were either plugging too much or plugging too little.Thanks. I'll have to look at the bike itself, rather than the drawing from the service manual. My pair valve is gone and I imagine anyone else attempting this mod would probably have theirs off as well.
)So, as far as I can tell, the bike is working just as well as it was performance wise. I took it out today for a short ride (about 20 miles) and was cruising easily at an indicated 90 (81 actual) mph with no problem.( I might steal some of the pics from this thread and do a full writeup for anyone who would like to do it.
Does anyone have the diagram of what it should look like with evap canister removed?3. Since the hoses are all gone, do I need to put a cap on the left side of the fuel valve?
You'll still need vacumn at that location for fuel to flow. It will start and run for a few seconds with the gas that's in the carb bowl.
You took off to much . I'm looking at Jakes diagram now to help you.
Looks like one of the tees in Jakes diagram is not crossed off, probably the one that runs a line to the fuel shut off valve.
That link has expired you don't have that diagram you met made up to the smog the canister the vent valve and other vacuum lines.I finished the PAIR mod and EVAP removal on my CA 1300 today (I also added Glen's A/F permanent adjustment screw). I took it out for a ride, and it seems to be working perfectly.
Info on EVAP removal for the 1300s is hard to find, but I figured it out. After I carefully studied the service manual, and from all the info I could glean from miscellaneous posts, the manual, and sheer intuition, here's my step-by-step procedure - after seat/tank/cover removal and PAIR mod (if you don't know how to do these things, please do not proceed, cuz it only gets harder):
(Before you begin, identify everything associated with the EVAP system - the service manual is indispensable. If you did the PAIR mod, you're ahead.)
I started with un-bolting the EVAP canister under the bike. I disconnected the skinny hose (that goes to the gas tank) from the canister, but left the other two on. However, in order to separate the EVAP canister from the bike, you need to disconnect that fat (#4) line that connects it to the CAV valve (at the neck of the bike). If you did the PAIR mod, you ought to know what I mean.
After that, I removed both the EVAP CAV and Purge control valves at the neck, leaving the vac lines in place (while I was figuring out what to do next). When all was said and done, I only had left a few vac lines connected to the carb and intake manifold. These were the tricky ones to figure out since the info on the forums is mostly for 1800s, and the service manual took some deciphering.
I made this diagram for myself using the image from the manual, which can also be found on the rear fender under the seat (I was inspired by this old post by BSAMAN, as evidenced in the text in the image):
From BSAMAN, I learned not to disconnect and cap the #6 line (right next to the fuel line into the carb). I don't know why it couldn't just be left open with no hose attached, but as is, it works fine.
On the side of carb towards the front of the bike is a #10 line. Pull this and cap it with a 1/8" vacuum cap (these are hard to find in SF, but I begged a good friend in the service dept. at a local bike shop for them). It wouldn't hurt to have a few on hand (5 or more):
Here's what it looks like capped:
After that, I pulled all of the rest of the #10 lines at the top. I tried to pull the line going into the intake manifold, but it was on there good, and I was also short a vac cap, so I just plugged it with a screw I had on had from another project (TIP: never get rid of anything, cuz you never know when you'll need it! that said, when I get some more vac cap, I will remedy this blight).
The last step was to remove the line going into the backside (and bottom) of the carb. It was hard to get to - and if you have large hands, you'll need to get some better tools), but it was easier than I expected. You have to pull this line, then cap with a 1/8" vac cap. (or, if you're lazy and you have the right size screw, just plug it and zip-tie it off. but I don't recommend that).
Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, I'm just not stupid. Don't take this as professional advice because I may have it wrong. But from real world experience, the bike runs better than it did before I made these mods, as I had hoped based on what others have reported. Who know what issues I may encounter down the road, but all seems good so far from my test rides. The exhaust sounds better, the bike looks cleaner, and I feel great from solving this problem with the help from the great community plus good old fashioned ingenuity.
If you have any questions, let me know. Here's a link to higher rez images: