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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all.
I have a 03 1800R with HK Sideburner exhaust. I want to replace the gaskets but wanted everything on-hand prior to pulling it apart.
I bought the crush gaskets which of course I can't see and will presume are in there. But it also looks like there is a normal exhaust gasket that goes over the studs, same as you would find on a car. Going through tons of threads, I haven't found a reference to such. So is there really one there or is it my imagination. Can't see all that well with everything bolted up in place. If there is one there, does anyone have a part number?

Also, the baffle wasn't in the exhaust when I got the bike. Is there one that I can get and would it help get backpressure to where it should be? These pipes are loud which I would like them to be a little quieter at highway speeds but I love the idle sound and tone. I don't know if a baffle(s) would make any difference with this exhaust. Kinda like the slashdowns so maybe one day I'll dump the money and get them but for now I want to keep my sideburners as i like the look.

Horn quit working after I got my bike back from the shop for tires. No voltage at the horn. Fuse is good, turn signals work. Wires aren't broke at the horn. Guess I'll be going in the headlight for a look...

As always, thanks for the answers up front. This site has always been a big help when I've been wrenching on my bike.
 

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2003 VTX1800C Illusion Blue, V&H pipes, K&N a/f, mustang seat w adj rest, Memphis shield, MTC clutch
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I bought the crush gaskets which of course I can't see and will presume are in there. But it also looks like there is a normal exhaust gasket that goes over the studs, same as you would find on a car.
Never had side burner exhaust but never heard of a stud mounted gasket being necessary for installation. Sounds as though someone had attempted to seal up an exhaust leak with a rigged up gasket. The new crush gaskets will torque to 17 lbs. Make sure you remove the old ones ( usually like a hair in a biscuit, you know it's in there) you may need a pick of some type. If the original acorn style nuts were used add a washer or two to each stud. The factory style nuts tend to bottom out before reaching necessary torque spec of 17 lbs. You can swap them out with a plated metric nut and not have that issue . Retorque them after every couple hours of ride time until they hold that torque spec and then check them occasionally. I'm sure others will have more sage mechanical wisdom to express shortly. As always good luck and enjoy the ride. TTT(MIKE)
 

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No to the extra gasket under the flange/ nuts. I use a WOLO horn, with the stock horn wire as the trigger wire. There is a simple diagram on the Wolo pkg. ~ $40 or less with discount @ Harbor Freight. I have it connected via a separate circuit on a 6 circuit fuse block. You only have to figure out where you want to mount it.
 

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As stated above, just the crush rings on exhaust. Use standard metric nuts as aftermarket flanges are thinner than stock. If the wires are broken at the horn, repair them.
 

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I don't think that exhaust came with baffles.

Exhaust gasket.....YES they are there and you won't see them and you'll think they aren't there. Get an O ring pick and find the gap between the head and the gasket and pop it out. No, there was never a gasket on the outside over the studs. That's for car engines
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
So I took a closer look and I think I was seeing what wasn't there. Doesn't look like a fiber gasket so probably just the crush gasket, which I already purchased. I'll get on that and see how it goes, don't think it's going to be difficult and I think I'll put a couple washers on before the acorns. As for the horn, tested the horn directly connected to a battery, works. Took fluke multimeter, no voltage to the horn. Connectors are attached and tight on the wire. So I have a break somewhere. Looking up the frame beside the radiator, nothing is scuffed, rubbed or otherwise damaged. I think I'll take a look inside the headlight as I've got to where it goes into the main harness and didn't see any damage at all along the length that I can see without removing the tank. Might replace the horn with wolo or ??? but I first have to get voltage to it. I did a week or so ago take the switch block off, left side, cleaned up in there with electrical cleaner and lubed the turn signal mechanism. Didn't help with the switch. I 'think' the switch is ok as I wasn't having a problem with it working, was working fine every time I hit it. I'm suspecting wiring somewhere since it was a sudden issue. I appreciate everyones response and reading through the posts. I do a lot of reading out here just to read and it's often enjoyable going along through some of the issues and their progress.
 

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As stated above, just the crush rings on exhaust. Use standard metric nuts as aftermarket flanges are thinner than stock. If the wires are broken at the horn, repair them.
Or slip a flat washer or 2 under the acorn nuts.
 
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Lucky you. Def, not recommended.
 

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I tend Todo alot of thing you can't do,but only when the cosiquences are little. Like fork service, I do it when they leak. Second set of seals bushings only because gw prog and 1.5 spacer was added. 85,000 now. Lifes too short ,and getting shorter⊙_⊙
 

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Hello all.
I have a 03 1800R with HK Sideburner exhaust. I want to replace the gaskets but wanted everything on-hand prior to pulling it apart.
I bought the crush gaskets which of course I can't see and will presume are in there. But it also looks like there is a normal exhaust gasket that goes over the studs, same as you would find on a car. Going through tons of threads, I haven't found a reference to such. So is there really one there or is it my imagination. Can't see all that well with everything bolted up in place. If there is one there, does anyone have a part number?

Also, the baffle wasn't in the exhaust when I got the bike. Is there one that I can get and would it help get backpressure to where it should be? These pipes are loud which I would like them to be a little quieter at highway speeds but I love the idle sound and tone. I don't know if a baffle(s) would make any difference with this exhaust. Kinda like the slashdowns so maybe one day I'll dump the money and get them but for now I want to keep my sideburners as i like the look.

Horn quit working after I got my bike back from the shop for tires. No voltage at the horn. Fuse is good, turn signals work. Wires aren't broke at the horn. Guess I'll be going in the headlight for a look...

As always, thanks for the answers up front. This site has always been a big help when I've been wrenching on my bike.
I also have the HK 2 n 1 Sideburner on my 03 1800S. I bought the exhaust new and it didn't come with a baffle, nor does HK offer one, but I made a stainless steel plate with drilled holes that I installed inside the pipe. It somewhat mellowed the bark to a lighter tone, but still plenty loud.
I used crush gaskets for the installation, but no gaskets over the studs.
 

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I tend Todo alot of thing you can't do,but only when the cosiquences are little. Like fork service, I do it when they leak. Second set of seals bushings only because gw prog and 1.5 spacer was added. 85,000 now. Lifes too short ,and getting shorter⊙_⊙
Thinking outside the box is cool…long as it doesnt have holes in it…lol…good luck
 

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One 1800 owner had HK3 pipes used a sink strainer as a baffle plus a washer and cross pieces.
A piece of sheet metal to make a tube to fit inside the pipe with the sink strainers.
You may need some type of pipe of the correct size as a die OD to fit in the exhaust pipe.

Exhaust pulses are powerful. Multiple counter-sunk head screws or welds.
 
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Back in the day ..to get thru city inspection (since done away) we would stick steel wool in the tail pipe and drill a cross bolt…made it thru every time….till they started checking emissions and sticking tester in the pipe….lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Haven't had a chance to do anything this week but maybe this weekend. Thanks for the info everyone. Sounds like I'll be crafting my own baffle if I'm going to quiet my exhaust down a bit. I'll start researching and see what I can come up with. Will check the horn/headlight this weekend. I love my VTX 1800, trying to keep everything working (hate when something is there but doesn't work), running smooth and staying dependable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, no progress. I've opened up the switch again and the headlight. In the headlight, I found the black 6 pin connector (looks like only 5 pins are used). 2 wires on one end, white/green and a green or black (can't tell, end 1/8" looks green but the rest of the wire all the way into the harness is black, not burnt). All wires have power except those 2. I think the white/green should have 12v the other is probably a ground. No power at the horn switch. So, if my thinking is correct I've got no power through the connector in the headlight going to the horn switch. My problem must be before the headlight connector. It looks like the white/green is the wire coming from the fuse block fuse C. It's hot there and I presume if it wasn't I wouldn't have turn signals, etc. So where does this wire connect into the main white/green wire? I don't think there is a relay. I'm a bit lost now as to where to look.
 

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White/Green has an appearance Black conn from the harness right next to the horn Black wire. The W/G and Light Green are on the switch side of the Black conn..
Never saw a wire in, wire out so those dots in the schematic could be a splice point.
That same W/G is also on the 9 pin RED conn for the Front Brake light switch.
There is also a W/G on the TS flasher.
Verify brake lights and TS are good.
If you have to steal a connection, I have pulled a terminal out and wrapped
wire around the good terminal shank/splice point and soldered wire there.
Use the pin on the harness side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I found it.... Broken wire in the wire harness as it comes around the frame neck. Soldered in a short piece of wire. Thanks for all the replies.
 
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