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Discussion Starter #1
So i took my pipes off to rewrap my baffles and I've had nothing but problems trying to seat the pipes again properly. Had 2 exhaust studs come out and for the life of me i can't get the front pipe tightened down enough. I can hear it sucking air and I've taken them off a few times and never had any issues. Also the bottom exhaust nut on the front pipe is only possible to turn with an open end wrench which still fits awkwardly and kind of strips the head of the nut slowly. Any tips? I don't have the heat shields on either makes it even more awkward to tighten the exhaust nuts.
 

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So i took my pipes off to rewrap my baffles and I've had nothing but problems trying to seat the pipes again properly. Had 2 exhaust studs come out and for the life of me i can't get the front pipe tightened down enough. I can hear it sucking air and I've taken them off a few times and never had any issues. Also the bottom exhaust nut on the front pipe is only possible to turn with an open end wrench which still fits awkwardly and kind of strips the head of the nut slowly. Any tips? I don't have the heat shields on either makes it even more awkward to tighten the exhaust nuts.
Put a washer (Or 2) on the studs on top of the pipe before you put the nut on.
I think, though I may be wrong, I had to buy a Thin Wall socket for the bottom bolt.
 

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I second using washers on the stud.2 usually will do it . Those nuts tend to bottom out before they clamp the pipe down . Did have some success using a short 3/8 drive socket with universal joint extension on it for that lower front ex nut . try to tighten the ex pipe nuts down evenly and use new gasket on each pipe . eo
 

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Are you using the OEM head pipes?
There is the "UP" on RR OEM pipe I looked at.
You wrapped too close to the flanges IMO.
Leave a gap and it should be easy to tighten.
Using the OEM acorn nuts? Use regular nuts!!!

Exhaust gasket - using old or new??
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Not oem pipes Vance and Hines big shots. I'm talking about wrapping the quiet baffles inside the pipes not heat wrapping the actual pipes. Yes to oem acorn nuts and i did order a new set of 4 because that one in particular was stripped. I admittedly didn't replace the gaskets but had never been an issue before. Use regular nuts? What size would fit on the exhaust studs.
 

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Not oem pipes Vance and Hines big shots. I'm talking about wrapping the quiet baffles inside the pipes not heat wrapping the actual pipes. Yes to oem acorn nuts and i did order a new set of 4 because that one in particular was stripped. I admittedly didn't replace the gaskets but had never been an issue before. Use regular nuts? What size would fit on the exhaust studs.
M8 (8mm) X 1.25. I got open ended nuts (no one can see them but you).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh yeah that totally doesn't bother me about the look with regular nuts Thanks for the info on nut and thread type. I just find it bizarre that this time which is about the 4th time I've had the exhaust off that i can't seem to get the nuts tightened down properly. Always worked before. Go figure.
 

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Are the studs seated completely??
An un-threaded area between the threaded ends.

Stud in soft aluminum, get it in as far as possible with minimal torque.
Do not strip threads on the aluminum.
Anti-seize or moly paste, I use them on the threads.

An acorn nut fell off many years ago, the de-cel explosions were loud!

On a late Sunday, got home, considered the possibilities, found a 5/16" nut.
Drilled and tapped it to metric.. 1/2" socket or wrench to tighten.. Its works well, this after many years on lower front cylinder exhaust stud.
 

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Oh yeah that totally doesn't bother me about the look with regular nuts Thanks for the info on nut and thread type. I just find it bizarre that this time which is about the 4th time I've had the exhaust off that i can't seem to get the nuts tightened down properly. Always worked before. Go figure.
The exhaust gaskets are single use, did you change them each time? They are going to apply the correct amount of resistance on the flanges, so that the 17 ft lbs torque is the keeps everything nice and tight.

I would imagine that if you didn't change the gaskets, it would require more torque to keep the nuts in place, which is an issue because you can strip the studs or worse damage the engine case where the studs attach.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah i guess I'll order a couple sets of gaskets and just have spares. No i didn't change them so good chance that's what's causing that gap allowing air in.
 

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Stainless steel flange nuts and you won't have any problems.
 

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Gaskets should be changed each time exhaust is removed and replaced, even more important when changing to aftermarket pipes.

Don't fool around, i recommend people get new gaskets each time without fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yup already got them on order. Summers wasting away not being able to ride.
 

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Yup already got them on order. Summers wasting away not being able to ride.
FYI...here u can get gaskets at auto parts store....list in how to section....I use FEL PRO and IMHO just as good as OEM...good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I've got my crush gaskets and I'll be installing tomorrow hopefully. I'm sure i can figure it out by pulling the old ones but the orientation of the gasket? Is the smooth side go in towards the engine and the side with the little ridge face out towards the exhaust pipe? I tried reading up and i assume it does matter which side faces in and out.
 

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So I've got my crush gaskets and I'll be installing tomorrow hopefully. I'm sure i can figure it out by pulling the old ones but the orientation of the gasket? Is the smooth side go in towards the engine and the side with the little ridge face out towards the exhaust pipe? I tried reading up and i assume it does matter which side faces in and out.
I always put ridge out....Some dont even have a ridge.
 
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