FI MIL 12 Blinks

I wouldn't replace them yet, but would have them on hand. I would check their connections for corrosion first, both at the injector plug and the other end (not sure what that is).

About 13-14 ohms resistance. About one amp current. Oxidation could be the problem. You can remove the the ECM connector, turn key on, and in current measurement mode check for current. Testing for current means changing your positive test lead and using the 10 amp jack. There is a schematic diagram of the ECM cap with info and color code. How to Step by Step 1800

Hans&Feet said:

About 13-14 ohms resistance. About one amp current. Oxidation could be the problem. You can remove the the ECM connector, turn key on, and in current measurement mode check for current. Testing for current means changing your positive test lead and using the 10 amp jack. There is a schematic diagram of the ECM cap with info and color code. How to Step by Step 1800

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I'll do it today, thank you

So today I double and triple checked the resistance on the injector, and now it is roughly 14 ohms, so it appears to be good; I'm going to check the battery in my multimeter. So I then disconnected the ecm, and the gray side looks clean, but the black side has old dialectic grease. I don't see a schematic. When I reconnected it the problem was gone. No more code. I'm wondering if disconnecting the ecm reset it, and nothing was fixed? so now it will trip again when I start it (or try to start it). Also, the guy who had it before me has installed an alarm system, which was no good, so I removed it just now. Also, there's a gray wire that was vampire clip connected to the red/yellow wire going into the gray side of the ecm. There is also a ground and hot lead that appear to be related to the gray wire. At this point I feel like I either have a serious cluster f#@k on my hands, or everything good now.

Pics might help with some diagnosing. Vince, didn't you have a fuel manager on it, too?

brettp said:

Pics might help with some diagnosing. Vince, didn't you have a fuel manager on it, too?

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I'd bet thats the vampire-clipped gray wire. Those eventually cut through the wiring and cause a bunch of problems. It should be soldered.

I had an FI2000, but I took it off, and I'm going to remove the vampire clips. The bike ran fine with it, but it really doesn't do much, so I'm going to sell it, and maybe get a power commander one day.

Do you think unplugging the ecm and plugging it back in would reset the fi code?

Vince159 said:

Do you think unplugging the ecm and plugging it back in would reset the fi code?

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Unplugging it will not erase the code. There is a procedure to do that. You can find it on the forum.
Look through the How-to section of the 1800 forum for electrical schematics. You can find out what those wires are for.

Red/Yellow is the TPS wire that feeds variable voltage to the ECM.
The Gray wire goes to the FI2000 and to Power Commander, which ever is used.
When you test for Ohms do you short your test leads together to see what resistance valve shows up?
Most low coast DMM will not give a zero. I have a few el-cheapo ones and they get to 0.4 to 0.6 ohms with new battery.
If the ECM sees a good value it will disappear.
Have you read anything in the How to Step by Step 1800 board?

Hans&Feet said:

Red/Yellow is the TPS wire that feeds variable voltage to the ECM.
The Gray wire goes to the FI2000 and to Power Commander, which ever is used.
When you test for Ohms do you short your test leads together to see what resistance valve shows up?
Most low coast DMM will not give a zero. I have a few el-cheapo ones and they get to 0.4 to 0.6 ohms with new battery.
If the ECM sees a good value it will disappear.
Have you read anything in the How to Step by Step 1800 board?

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Yes, the DMM gives a reading of 0.3-0.4 when touching the leads. It's curious how I was getting 24-25 ohms the first day, then yesterday 14; and the fi code cleared. So, I'm thinking I should go ahead and replace the injectors. Now the other development is, and I feel a little foolish, this bike already had a power commander installed prior to me installing the fi2000. I looked up the instructions for installing a pc while investigating the gray wire, and I found that the previous owner hid the pc module inside the battery box; so it was there the whole time. So I'm removing the vampire clips that were there for the alarm and the fi2000 and using liquid black tape on the wires. I'm learning as I go, obviously, so I hope I can get a clear understanding of what happened here and why. I've been looking for any related how to step by steps, nothing so far.

Try OEM setup for S&G. Some PC3 have died and the owner went back to original layout.
The mess of wires is a accident waiting to happen.
You keep at it and you will get to know it.
Spray WD40 or contact cleaner onto the pins. Prevent oxidation.

Hans is exactly right. Just because you feel foolish doesn't mean you didn't learn anything. Keep moving forward and you'll be able to troubleshoot the bike easier in the future.

Do you guys think I need to, or should, replace the injectors?

Would take all the other fuel managers off, clean the connections, and ride it for a few days. See what happens. If it runs fine, you should be good. If it acts up again, very resistance again before changing the injectors. My two cents.

Can you remove the fuel rail and injectors as a unit and observe the injector spray while cranking??
I remember one case where a blob of crap was on the fine mesh injector screen.
Some other guys mentioned having a diesel shop check injectors years ago.

Hans&Feet said:

Can you remove the fuel rail and injectors as a unit and observe the injector spray while cranking??
I remember one case where a blob of crap was on the fine mesh injector screen.
Some other guys mentioned having a diesel shop check injectors years ago.

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That's an interesting idea, I'll check it out. I thought because of how old they are, maybe changing them would be advisable; do they normally hold up ? My bike has a little over 30k miles.

Vince159 said:

That's an interesting idea, I'll check it out. I thought because of how old they are, maybe changing them would be advisable; do they normally hold up ? My bike has a little over 30k miles.

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They should last tens of thousands of miles. Much longer than you have. Some have probably never changed them.