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FI MIL 12 Blinks

725 Views 36 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Vince159
Hey guys,
I've been dealing with my fuel pump not working. I replaced it, and it was doing fine for a couple of rides. Then the other morning it started, then stalled, then no prime of the fuel pump. Now I have an FI code of 12 blinks. So I've been trouble shooting, and I've found the rear fuel injector reads roughly 24-25 ohms, so I'm getting ready to replace both fuel injectors. I've been cautioned that it could be a short. With the abnormal reading on the injector, I'll be replacing them and going from there. I just thought I'd throw this out there to see if anyone has dealt with this before. Thanks for any feedback.
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Do you have another vehicle with fuel injection?
1994 Ford Ranger, no issues at 200k miles with injectors. My ECM died after 28 years, 3 months after being in VA for a day with -1*F
2001 Honda Accord, no fuel injector issues with 192k miles.
2011 Hyundai Sonata no FI
There are 1800 with 100k miles and no issues.
Parked for a long time with rust building up in the tank...

Brett had same fuel issue.. Hey Brett and any other new members with rusty fuel tanks, did you change fuel injectors?
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That's an interesting idea, I'll check it out. I thought because of how old they are, maybe changing them would be advisable; do they normally hold up ? My bike has a little over 30k miles.
They should last tens of thousands of miles. Much longer than you have. Some have probably never changed them.
Do you have another vehicle with fuel injection?
1994 Ford Ranger, no issues at 200k miles with injectors. My ECM died after 28 years, 3 months after being in VA for a day with -1*F
2001 Honda Accord, no fuel injector issues with 192k miles.
2011 Hyundai Sonata no FI
There are 1800 with 100k miles and no issues.
Parked for a long time with rust building up in the tank...

Brett had same fuel issue.. Hey Brett and any other new members with rusty fuel tanks, did you change fuel injectors?
Negative, sir. Didn't change them. In fact, the fuel filter prevented any trash from getting to the injectors so I didn't have to clean them at all.
I do throw some Berryman in the tank every once in a while to clean fuel lines, carbon, etc.
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They should last tens of thousands of miles. Much longer than you have. Some have probably never changed them.
ok, thanks Brett, good to know.
Do you have another vehicle with fuel injection?
1994 Ford Ranger, no issues at 200k miles with injectors. My ECM died after 28 years, 3 months after being in VA for a day with -1*F
2001 Honda Accord, no fuel injector issues with 192k miles.
2011 Hyundai Sonata no FI
There are 1800 with 100k miles and no issues.
Parked for a long time with rust building up in the tank...

Brett had same fuel issue.. Hey Brett and any other new members with rusty fuel tanks, did you change fuel injectors?
Yeah that's the thing, this bike sat for 10 years. My car has 150k and no issues. I'll be putting it back together tomorrow, and see how she does for some local rides. I hope cleaning up all this electrical mess will square things away.
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Yeah that's the thing, this bike sat for 10 years. My car has 150k and no issues. I'll be putting it back together tomorrow, and see how she does for some local rides. I hope cleaning up all this electrical mess will square things away.
Just to note, there are many compounds on the market for 'cleaning injectors', or preventing buildups. Many of us use Seafoam every few tanks or so. A different product, Startron "blue" is an enzyme-based cleaner that dissolves hydrocarbon-based buildups. I use a bit of it every year in all my small lawn gas-powered items, as they are more susceptible to buildups and sitting over winter.
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I agree with brettp, make it stock. And to find a second one, wow. I had mine in my toolbox. All my PCIII did was allow me to eat more fuel. I do that w/o help. Does sound like you ran down the issue.
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Ok, I got it all put back together and running. I repaired the wires where the clips were, unplugged the pc3 and cleaned all the pins with rubbing alcohol, and put a little fresh dialectic grease before reconnecting. The pc3 was in the tool kit compartment, and it looks very good, and appears to be functioning well, so I'll see how that goes. Now it's just a matter of putting on some miles and see if what I did fixed it. The only issue I have now is the tach quit working; the light is on but it's not working. But I'll explore that another day. Thanks for the help and insight, plus not feeling like I was going it alone. That's the great thing about this forum. Peace.
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Did you bump the yellow wire off the Ignition coil?
The ign coil with Yel/blue wire.
Did you bump the yellow wire off the Ignition coil?
The ign coil with Yel/blue wire.
I don't understand the question my friend.
2
Ok, So, I found that the power commander had the wrong map installed, so I corrected it, and it's running much better, but there's till some popping on decel. So today I'm going to unplug the pc3 and go back to OEM set up and see how that is. Otherwise, I need to figure out how to adjust the pc3 to reduce or eliminate the popping; which is what I'm researching now. The one other thing I'm a little mystified about is that there are several connectors that are unplugged, that I can't find where they go to. Any insights?
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Ok, So, I found that the power commander had the wrong map installed, so I corrected it, and it's running much better, but there's till some popping on decel. So today I'm going to unplug the pc3 and go back to OEM set up and see how that is. Otherwise, I need to figure out how to adjust the pc3 to reduce or eliminate the popping; which is what I'm researching now. The one other thing I'm a little mystified about is that there are several connectors that are unplugged, that I can't find where they go to. Any insights? View attachment 219568 View attachment 219568 View attachment 219569 View attachment 219568 View attachment 219569
The blue connector looks like a fuel injector connection. Probably belongs to the power commander. The one at the front looks like the pair system connector, which is funny because your pair hose going to the front cylinder is gone.
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The blue connector looks like a fuel injector connection. Probably belongs to the power commander. The one at the front looks like the pair system connector, which is funny because your pair hose going to the front cylinder is gone.
Yes, the front one is explained by the smog being pulled. I know the smallest one is probably for a diagnostics? and yes the blue one looks just like a fuel injector connector, but I can't figure it out; it doesn't have anything to do with the pc3. hmm. Thanks for the help, I had forgot about the pair connection.
Yes, the front one is explained by the smog being pulled. I know the smallest one is probably for a diagnostics? and yes the blue one looks just like a fuel injector connector, but I can't figure it out; it doesn't have anything to do with the pc3. hmm. Thanks for the help, I had forgot about the pair connection.
The small one looks like the connection that matches one under the tank next to the frame. I think it connects to something on the tank, line the instrument panel.
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The small one looks like the connection that matches one under the tank next to the frame. I think it connects to something on the tank, line the instrument panel.
I'll doublecheck, but I've been all through the tank, and my instruments are fine, including the low fuel light, which came on yesterday.
So, I ran without the PC3 yesterday, and it is not better than with; in fact there was worse popping and a back fire. I have the V&H staggered bigshots, with what I believe are standard baffles, and stock air box. I spoke with dynojet, and they sent me an email with instructions on how to tune out the popping. So I'll be exploring that now. Other than the popping all is well.
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Vince, I have the same set up; stock air box, ECM controlling spark, and V&H baffled exhaust. I have zero popping. I'm guessing you have 1 of 2 things going on: bad spark plugs or PAIR still on the bike.

I know you're putting in a new map in the power commander, so the PAIR would be rendered moot. But bad spark plugs may not, be sure to check those.

Other than that, glad you're still able to ride.
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Vince, I have the same set up; stock air box, ECM controlling spark, and V&H baffled exhaust. I have zero popping. I'm guessing you have 1 of 2 things going on: bad spark plugs or PAIR still on the bike.

I know you're putting in a new map in the power commander, so the PAIR would be rendered moot. But bad spark plugs may not, be sure to check those.

Other than that, glad you're still able to ride.
Interesting. No the complete smog system has been removed. I replaced the plugs less then 75 miles ago. I'm going to check the exhaust bolts and make sure they're torqued correctly.
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